Timber Frame Houses - Installing Doors & Windows
wullie
Whilst looking into timber frame houses, I'm curious about the installation
of doors and windows.
Most manufacturers of timber frame house kits say the house can be weather &
watertight within a few
days. This includes having the doors and windows fitted within those few
days.
Obviously, this means that the brick/breeze block/whatever outside skin is
not yet constructed, so the
windows & doors are secured to the inner frame - i.e. the timber frame.
However, I'm used to installing windows and doors onto the brick course -
the outside skin.
I can imagine if I constructed a timber house, and then put some uPVC
windows on the inner skin,
there would be very large recess in the window, which might not look very
nice.
Has anyone else got experience or information on this?
Have they just waited until the brickwork is completed, before installing
the windows & doors?
If the windows & doors are installed onto the timber frame, this will mean
the cavity is "bare".
Obviously, the cavity can be closed - but what is used to hide it - just a
covering of wood or something?
Any advice is much appreciated!
W.
BigWallop
"wullie" <wul...@w.com> wrote in message
news:3efe129b$0$18497$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
> Hi,
> Whilst looking into timber frame houses, I'm curious about the
installation
> of doors and windows.
>
> Most manufacturers of timber frame house kits say the house can be weather
&
> watertight within a few
> days. This includes having the doors and windows fitted within those few
> days.
>
Easier and a bit more secure than fixing to just a brick facing skin.
> Obviously, this means that the brick/breeze block/whatever outside skin is
> not yet constructed, so the
> windows & doors are secured to the inner frame - i.e. the timber frame.
>
Gaps are covered by fancy brickwork or with hard wood timber sills and
jambs.
> However, I'm used to installing windows and doors onto the brick course -
> the outside skin.
>
You're getting old.
> I can imagine if I constructed a timber house, and then put some uPVC
> windows on the inner skin,
> there would be very large recess in the window, which might not look very
> nice.
>
Gaps are covered by fancy brickwork or hard wood timber sills and jambs.
> Has anyone else got experience or information on this?
> Have they just waited until the brickwork is completed, before installing
> the windows & doors?
>
To speed up build times and cut costs, it is easier to fit all windows and
doors when the frame is erected, and when the brickies are at work outside,
everyone else is cosy inside doing their bits and pieces. Makes sense.
> If the windows & doors are installed onto the timber frame, this will mean
> the cavity is "bare".
> Obviously, the cavity can be closed - but what is used to hide it - just a
> covering of wood or something?
>
Gaps can be covered with fancy brickwork or hard wood timber sills and
jambs.
> Any advice is much appreciated!
>
> W.
>
>
The house construction is actually the timber frame, and this can be covered
with any type of facing you want. Some newer properties are being faced
with half sawn logs to give the effect of a log cabin, while others are more
traditional and cover with soft facing bricks. It really is a suck it and
see situation with the face you want for your new house.
---
BigWallop
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Michael McNeil
The house can be bought as a kit the same way that modern roof trusses
are supplied. Or you can construct the frame from 5 x 2 or whatever
yourself. The frame is clad with weatherproof ply that holds it all
sqare and a shet of polythene goes over it between the cladding or
brickwork.
A door or window fixed to such a sturdy web of wood is unlikely to
fall out. You fit them to suit your choice of cladding. Also some
windows are set half on the brick and half over the cavity void. I
have always thought that a weakness in the design.
You could specify your own window and door frames to get over that -or
make your own.
What they don't tell you is the amount of planning that goes into one.
(Getting the joiners, electricians and plumbers all working as a team
and not killing each other is the main trick to it.) And the slab and
services don't count in the time allowed as they are in situ when the
kit arrives.
A tip with sewage etc is to set them below the finished slab height
and cover with a box set flush to the top of the slab so that you can
level the concrete easily in the bathrooms etc. Break the box out and
fill with concrete when you finish bringing the service ducts through
-after the slab has hardened.
Also as soon as the sole plate is on you can tile the floors that you
wish to tile and protect the tiles with harboard or ply. Then put your
frame up.
If you are thinking of building one get a nail gun. It's eight to ten
times faster than using an hammer and never tire. You get no hammer
marks on finished wood such as skirting etc. The only drawback is that
if you nail in the wrong place they are a devil to get out.
Rick Hughes
> Has anyone else got experience or information on this?
> Have they just waited until the brickwork is completed, before installing
> the windows & doors?
Normally doors & windows are not fixed until after the brickwork skin is up.
Then it is placed bridging the cavity - has the advantage that the windows
are fitted after the bricklaying is finished - so less prone to mortar
damage.
For timber frames you normally fit temp windows out of batten & pvc sheet.
This is what I did on my build.
If you want to know more about SelfBuild join the UK SelfBuild forum.
http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/
There is a FAQ for Selfbuilding at that site.
Rick
Rick Hughes
"Michael McNeil" <Weathe...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:290b5eaf.03062...@posting.google.com...
This is not very typical - normally the sheathing material is OSB. covered
with a breather membrane - typically Tyvek.
Putting a sheet of polythene is NOT reccomended a dstrhis would trap vapuir
in the frame and casue rot.
The breather membrane allows the vapour to pas to cavity and thence out
through brickwork.
There othyer methods such as breathing wall.
The polytheene sheet you mention is on warm side of frame between frame &
drytlining board - here it's purpose is to stoip vaopur enterring the frame
in the first place.
If you want to know more about SelfBuild consider subscribing to the UK
selfBuild forum: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/
The UK SelfBuild FAQ is found at that site.
Regards
Rick
Nick Finnigan
news:3efe129b$0$18497$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
> Whilst looking into timber frame houses, I'm curious about the installation
> of doors and windows.
> Has anyone else got experience or information on this?
> Have they just waited until the brickwork is completed, before installing
> the windows & doors?
I've just had a look at the one begin built near me. They've
just finished the brickwork after being delayed waiting for
the timber frame, and there are lots of windows waiting to
be installed. The cavity has not very attractive softwood
to the sides and base, the timber frame makes a reasonable
internal window surround, and the external cills are stone effect.
I'd guess the windows will be going level with the cavity.
Michael McNeil
I wondered why they would need polythene in a cavity. I couldn't get
into the site without joining but I have bookmarked it for later.
Thanks.
I really like this group. I have been posting on
alt.building.construction but they have very few links and not much
variety. I have found the links posted here interesting and useful.