Re: Great difficulty cutting 18mm MDF with T101B jigsaw blade

[Andy Burns]

MM wrote:

> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.

Circular saw available, instead of jigsaw?

[Andy Burns]

MM wrote:

> Andy Burns wrote:
>
>> Circular saw available, instead of jigsaw?
>

> No, I only have hand saws and a jigsaw. There's not much of a problem with thin
> MDF (say, 6mm to 10mm), but the thicker boards do present a problem.

Accept you're going to get a less than perfect sawn edge, and plane it
square?

[newshound]

You don't need to be cutting many shelves to justify getting something
like this

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/GMC+Circular+Saw+165mm/p10615

or keep an eye on Lidl / Aldi for offers.

When you do, google "sawboard" and make that your first job.

[Andy Burns]

newshound wrote:

> You don't need to be cutting many shelves to justify getting something
> like this

Or buy from a larger B&Q that offers a cutting service

> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/GMC+Circular+Saw+165mm/p10615

>
> When you do, google "sawboard" and make that your first job.

Then, on literally the first cut after making the sawboard, watch as the
magic smoke pours from the saw's motor, buy a replacement saw and then
make another sawboard to match the dimensions of the replacement saw ...
That bloody Mr Sod.

[Brian Gaff]

If you have ever tried to cut a round hole for a speaker out of that stuff,
you will know its bloody near impossible!

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
<kyli...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:gn0am9hji2jnb89ur...@4ax.com...

> No, I only have hand saws and a jigsaw. I don't have much MDF to cut,
> but when I do, another shelf, for example, it's frustrating to say the
> least. Since posting, I've found variable pitch blades (De Walt) on
> Amazon, which include MDF in the materials it will cut, so perhaps
> that could be the answer. NB: There's not much of a problem with thin

[stuart noble]

On 03/05/2014 18:22, kyli...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

> What I've just done is (a) use a new blade! And (b) only *guide* the
> jigsaw along the fence with hardly any forward pressure. Takes ages to
> cut 1/2 a metre, but the cut is actually very clean and straight.
> Still might try those other blades I saw on Amazon, though.
>
> After I'd cut the MDF boards to size I needed some basic shelves from
> bog-standard melamine chipboard and the jigsaw sailed through those
> like a hot knife through butter.
>
> The jigsaw, by the way is 40 years old. It's an AEG I bought in
> Germany in the early 1970s while resident as a guest worker there.
> Still works perfectly.
>

Try a coarse cut blade with a wide set. Fine blades are hopeless on mdf

[harryagain]

"MM" <kyli...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:frt9m9di0k8cj2dga...@4ax.com...

> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.

Jig saws are of very limited use. Cutting curves and that's about it.

Get a circular saw and some TC tipped blades.

[The Medway Handyman]

+1

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[The Medway Handyman]

On 03/05/2014 15:07, MM wrote:
> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.
>

Jigsaws are not designed to cut straight lines, that's a job for a
circular saw. Makes me laugh when you see a fence included with a jigsaw.

Even a top of the range �120 Makita jigsaw won't cut as straight a line
as a �30 circular saw. Almost, but not quite.

[michael adams]

"MM" <kyli...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:frt9m9di0k8cj2dga...@4ax.com...

> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.

Blades designed for a smooth finish are often too thin.

Try Bosch 144D's which are really thick blades, and go slowly
rather than forcing the saw. In this way you can still get
a fairly good finish as the blade runs against the
same edge a number of times.

I've only ever used cheap and cheeful jigsaws myself, and
the biggest mistake I've found is to try and push the saw
too hard through the work given the relatively low power
of the motor.

Unlike the expensive jobs you see featured in Youtube videos
zipping through 28cm worktops, as if they were butter.

In the past the Bosch website had comparative tables for
all their blades with the blade thickness/set/kerf - which
is how I selected the 144D's, in addition to the usual
length and TPI. But the site now appears to be dumbed down
or maybe it was only ever on the German site.

michael adams

...

[robgraham]

>
>
>
> Sorry, circular saws frighten me to death. I could never use one.
>
> Quite fancy a bandsaw, however.

Having been brought up from my teens with a circular saw - big b****r my Dad made for a serious house renovation in the 1950's - and only progressed to a bandsaw about 6 years ago, I have more fears of it than the circular saw. The noise and clear movement of the circular saw blade is a clear reminder of its threat whereas the bandsaw just hums and the blade cannot really be seen moving.

Rob

[tony sayer]

In article <089am9pgnrlimpau7...@4ax.com>, �
<kyli...@yahoo.co.uk> scribeth thus

>On Sat, 03 May 2014 16:00:34 +0100, Andy Burns
><usenet....@adslpipe.co.uk> wrote:
>

>What I've just done is (a) use a new blade! And (b) only *guide* the
>jigsaw along the fence with hardly any forward pressure. Takes ages to
>cut 1/2 a metre, but the cut is actually very clean and straight.
>Still might try those other blades I saw on Amazon, though.
>
>After I'd cut the MDF boards to size I needed some basic shelves from
>bog-standard melamine chipboard and the jigsaw sailed through those
>like a hot knife through butter.
>
>The jigsaw, by the way is 40 years old. It's an AEG I bought in
>Germany in the early 1970s while resident as a guest worker there.
>Still works perfectly.

Amazing if it does. I bought a new Makita last year excellent tool this
one and it does cut straight:)...


http://www.makitauk.com/product/saws/jigsaws/4350fct-orbital-action-
jigsaw.html
--
Tony Sayer

[newshound]

On 03/05/2014 18:24, wrote:

> On Sat, 03 May 2014 16:36:25 +0100, newshound
> <news...@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:
>

>
> Sorry, circular saws frighten me to death. I could never use one.
> Quite fancy a bandsaw, however.
>

It's actually rather easier to put your hand through a bandsaw while
feeding material. Keep your hands above the plate and it is not so easy
to damage yourself with a circular saw. Unless you rest the workpiece on
your knees, of course. Big table saws can have a hell of a kick if
abused, less of an issue with handheld saws.

[fred]

Couldn't disagree more.I find a bandsaw infinitely safer than a table saw and I own and use both regularly. The real danger with table saws is kick back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4fBGmUYL5Q

I've had long pieces of wood thrown back at me from kickback. And incidentally kickback from a hand held circular saw is much more dangerous than with a table saw. With a handheld machine its the machine that gets thrown about,and you will still be holding it switched on and running

With a circular blade raised for a 2" cut there is much more dangerous revolving blade exposed than the 2" of bandsaw blade which will have its own built in safety shield from its guide post.

To me, anyone stupid enough to damage themselves on a band saw is just that, stupid enough.

[tony sayer]

In article <165f84c0-e902-4e55...@googlegroups.com>, fred
<tpmc...@gmail.com> scribeth thus

But have to you seen this one!..

Enjoy!...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiYoBbEZwlk
--
Tony Sayer

[fred]

Fed up watching that crap. They have the ideea patented to the eyes. One of the backers is a lawyer and they are attempting to make it compulsory. If its forced on the Yanks we won't be far behind.

All because some untrained idiot was using a small electric saw with out a riving knife or blade guard, whilst holding it by hand. Now we have elf'n'safty legislating for the brain dead, I gave up on the intelligence of the average yank the day I saw a note stuck on a wide angle side mirror warning that objects may appear further away. Doh !
.
The majority of table saw accidents would NOT have been saved with the saw stop.

[Capitol]

+1

[John Rumm]

On 03/05/2014 15:07, MM wrote:

> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.

MDF clogs blades so you need one with coarse teeth. If you have a
pendulum action on the saw, then turn it on. Don't force it. You may
also find you get a better straight line following a drawn line rather
than using a straight edge to run the machine along.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

[John Rumm]

On 03/05/2014 19:03, harryagain wrote:
> "MM" <kyli...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:frt9m9di0k8cj2dga...@4ax.com...
>> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
>> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
>> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.
>
> Jig saws are of very limited use. Cutting curves and that's about it.

True for *cheap* jigsaws - a proper professional one however is a
completely different class of tool and quite capable of cutting a
straight line.

> Get a circular saw and some TC tipped blades.

[stuart noble]

On 05/05/2014 01:49, John Rumm wrote:

>>
>> Jig saws are of very limited use. Cutting curves and that's about it.
>
> True for *cheap* jigsaws - a proper professional one however is a
> completely different class of tool and quite capable of cutting a
> straight line.
>

The OP's ancient AEG is no slouch. I have one too. �100+ 40 years ago IIRC

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <lk33k1$sm7$1...@dont-email.me>,

Brian Gaff <brian...@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you have ever tried to cut a round hole for a speaker out of that
> stuff, you will know its bloody near impossible!

You use a router for that.

--
*Toilet stolen from police station. Cops have nothing to go on.

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Rick Hughes]

On 03/05/2014 15:07, MM wrote:

> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.
>

almost normal for jigsaws. if hole is critical I cut a template in
1/4" ply and use a bearing guided router bit.

If hole is square then if possible use circular saw.


I do find reverse tooth blades (down cutting blades) that cut the
opposite way are much better on MDF .... I buy them for laminates, but
find them good on MDF

--
UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

[JimK]

But what do you cut the ply template out with....?

Jim K

[meow...@care2.com]

On Saturday, May 3, 2014 3:07:27 PM UTC+1, MM wrote:

> Is there a recommended blade for cutting MDF? Using a new T101B, even
> with a fence, causes an uneven kerf and the blade seems to "bend" away
> from the board. Never had the problem sawing real wood.

Using a jigsaw with a fence is a classic mistake. Follow the line by steering it.


NT

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 14/05/14 18:56, JimK wrote:
> But what do you cut the ply template out with....?
>

I use a router and a fence..


> Jim K
>


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <IMCdnYyNRr2oP-7O...@bt.com>,

Rick Hughes <rick_...@remove-me.btconnect.com> wrote:
> almost normal for jigsaws. if hole is critical I cut a template in
> 1/4" ply and use a bearing guided router bit.

I have a hole cutting attachment which allows you to cut the hole direct.
There will be a minimum size, though, which may be too large with many
larger routers.

Lidl recently did what they called a combination cutter which will route
holes from 50-160mm radius. Only snag with it is the 4.8mm collet size -
most places don't stock bits.

--
*A fool and his money can throw one hell of a party.