What kind of bathroom flooring to put over floor boards?

[Eusebius]

I need a proper waterproof floor in my bathroom - old cork tiles clapped out. It's on the 2nd floor and has floorboards, so not a very even surface. Floorboards are old and have gaps in between them.

I'd like some kind of tiles, but open to all ideas. What's the best way of doing this? I'm afraid rigid tiles would just crack because of the uneven boards.

All suggestions welcome.

[The Medway Handyman]

The traditional solution for vinyl tiles/sheet is to cover the floor
with 3mm hardboard, stapled or pinned down, to give a flat surface.

You can get some very nice, very thick vinyl sheet these days.
Carpetright have a good selection.

Personally, I think tiling on a wooden floor, even using the right
adhesive - is a very bad idea indeed. You would need to cover it in
fairly thick ply/MDF screwed down firmly to have any chance of success.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[The Medway Handyman]

On 18/12/2013 18:48, Eusebius wrote:

[Eusebius]

Yes - I didn't think solid tiles were a very good idea.

How about vinyl tiles, though? Easier to lay.

I also thought about mosaic. What are my chances of making that work? Could look nice.

[Roger Mills]

On 18/12/2013 18:48, Eusebius wrote:

How waterproof does it need to be - does it need to cope with standing
water, or just splashes?

If the latter, I recommend carpet tiles of the type designed for
bathrooms. As TMH has said, put hardboard down first to create a flat
surface and bridge any gaps in the boards. Then lay the tiles tight to
the walls and doorstrip[1]. You can then slosh a fair amount of water
about without it penetrating to the hardboard and floorboards.

[1] As always, start in the middle and work to the outside, with less
than a full tile against the walls. Cut the outer tiles slightly
oversize (maybe 1mm) so that they are a slight interference fit (but not
enough to prevent them from lying flat).
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
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[Dave Liquorice]

On Wed, 18 Dec 2013 12:00:51 -0800 (PST), Eusebius wrote:

> How about vinyl tiles, though? Easier to lay.

How do you make the joints waterproof? Wet will get under them to
what ever you have used to give a smooth surface so that would have
to water resistant at the very least, if not waterproof to stop damp
getting to the orginal boards.

> I also thought about mosaic. What are my chances of making that work?
> Could look nice.

I think you's still need a very firm flat surface to start from or
the grout will crack and damp will get in as above. Bit cold on the
tootsies as well unless you put some underfloor heating in, which
adds even more to the thickness of the new flooring.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[gremlin_95]

On 18/12/2013 18:48, Eusebius wrote:

Our bathroom was redone earlier this year, IIRC the bathroom installer
used 'Harbibacker' boards, can't remember if he used hardboard as well.

--
Dawood

[SteveW]

After Christmas I intend to do just that with our bathroom.

SteveW

[Eusebius]

>
> After Christmas I intend to do just that with our bathroom.
> SteveW

you mean use HardieBacker boards? I'm just reading up on them.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products-interior.shtml

[Andy Burns]

Eusebius wrote:

> you mean use HardieBacker boards? I'm just reading up on them.
>
> http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products-interior.shtml

I thought it was hardibacker not hardiebacker?

http://www.travisperkins.co.uk/p/hardibacker-250-tile-backing-board-1500-x-900-x-6mm/554995/3893473

[meow...@care2.com]

A big bit of rolled vinyl is nice. Vinyl tiles would also work, but either way you need a very smooth surface under them, no way are boards ok. A 1mm step change is enough to ruin them in a year or 2. So hardboard, or better osb3 or wbp ply first.

Carpet: no.
Ceramic tiles/mosaic: I wouldnt. It is done, but the odds of it lasting well are decidedly iffy.
Wood: make it well preserved, ie outdoor pressure treated wood. If you're happy to deal with slight instability/gaps then quite doable.
Asphalt: nice, but pricey


NT

[Geoff Pearson]

"Eusebius" <performan...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:858c9ba6-6e79-49b0...@googlegroups.com...

I take up the floorboard and replace with plywood, then a sheet of
Hardibacker and then tile or laminate. But then I am dealing with houses
more than 120 years old.

[Bill Wright]

I had terrible problems with this. In the end I used a specialist firm
to put down a wetroom floor. This has been completely perfect.

Bill

[Scion]

Eusebius put finger to keyboard:

Plywood to level the floor, then Karndean or similar.

[PeterC]

Trouble with all these coverings (and I'd like to use something but don't
know what) is that they block access to all the pipes and cables under the
floor.
You say "Carpet: no", but carpet tiles suitable for some dampness would at
least be liftable.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

[Brian Gaff]

Not to mention the sag with the weight.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active

"Eusebius" <performan...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:858c9ba6-6e79-49b0...@googlegroups.com...

[John Williamson]

On 19/12/2013 09:46, PeterC wrote:
> Trouble with all these coverings (and I'd like to use something but don't
> know what) is that they block access to all the pipes and cables under the
> floor.
> You say "Carpet: no", but carpet tiles suitable for some dampness would at
> least be liftable.
>

They're also easy to replace when they start to stink. BTDTGTTS.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

[PeterC]

Ah, for various reason I sit down to piss so there's no drippage etc.
Non-degradable material should be able to withstand other water in small
amounts.

[Capitol]

PeterC wrote:

> Trouble with all these coverings (and I'd like to use something but don't
> know what) is that they block access to all the pipes and cables under the
> floor.
> You say "Carpet: no", but carpet tiles suitable for some dampness would at
> least be liftable.

I always install suspended ceilings below bathrooms. Very convenient
space to fit stop valves and protected electrical supplies.

[Weatherlawyer]

On Wednesday, 18 December 2013 18:48:12 UTC, Eusebius wrote:
>
> I need a proper waterproof floor in my bathroom - old cork tiles clapped out.
> It's on the 2nd floor and has floorboards, so not a very even surface.
> Floorboards are old and have gaps in between them.

Take the old boards up and replace them. It can't be that big a job and you don't need to gt under the bath etc. just the walkway.

If you are going to use board over the old remember to soak it first to make it shrink fit when you lay it. The same applied for replacing the T&G you should treat it with whatever waterproofing and leave it standing in the same humidity for a while.

If you are going to stain it stain the tongue before you lay it.

[SteveW]

On 18/12/2013 23:33, Eusebius wrote:
>>
>> After Christmas I intend to do just that with our bathroom.
>> SteveW
>
>
> you mean use HardieBacker boards?

Or an equivalent.

We have wanted to lay a heated, tiled floor in there for a long time and
as I am doing the rest of the bathroom, it's time for the floor too.

SteveW

[John Williamson]

Mis-targetted urine isn't the only thing that starts them stinking,
splashes from the bath or shower also start a cycle of bugs growing, so
unless you dry off cmpletely inside the shower cubicle or bath, you
still get the problem.

[PeterC]

Yes, I'm aware of that, but there doesn't seem to be a better option (apart
from the suspended ceiling) that would be less unhygenic and allow access.
I do dry off in the shower.