Metal paint for rusty fire escape
John Smith
I have a rusty rear fire escape which I have refused to paint for about 10
years... i.e. it was galvanised metal and my Mum, God bless her, insisted on
painting it wit the end result it needed to be painted on a regular basis...
Anyhow, I think it is in danger of rusting through so I am going to get a
drill and a rust attachment on it in the next few days and then I will have
to paint it. I am looking for tips for metal painter/primer/rust treatment
for it. I am considering Hammerite's straight to rust treatment which comes
in colours, comes in big tins and apparently you can thin it and use it with
a spray gun (I have never used a spray gun before)
So, any advice on which paint to get and from where? Are there online
stockists that I can use as my local DIY store seem to deal in very small
tins only? Also, any advice on using a spray gun and are these
cheap/expensive tools to buy?
Thanks,
John.
Dave Liquorice
> I am looking for tips for metal painter/primer/rust treatment
> for it. I am considering Hammerite's straight to rust treatment...
I've used black smooth hammerite on heavy garden/field gate hinges.
Works well has survived our weather or a good couple of years without
obvious signs of degredation. Same can't be said for the galvanised
screws which are rusting nicely. Try not to create tiny bubbles which
form pinholes later, you do really need two coats to overcome this and
note that the second needs to be applied fairly quickly after the
first or you have to wait weeks...
> Also, any advice on using a spray gun and are these cheap/expensive
> tools to buy?
My thoughts about a spray gun outside are that 5% of the paint will
end up on the intended object, 95% all over the neighbourhood.
--
Cheers new...@howhill.com
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
Dave Plowman (News)
John Smith <johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote:
> So, any advice on which paint to get and from where? Are there online
> stockists that I can use as my local DIY store seem to deal in very small
> tins only? Also, any advice on using a spray gun and are these
> cheap/expensive tools to buy?
Spraying is a way of getting a good finish with suitable paint on a large
surface away from any draught. Ie, in a purpose made spray booth, or
somewhere where spray scatter doesn't matter. For anything else, pointless.
--
*24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
John Smith
the UK? My local B&Q has 1 one large tin in black... be nice to get the
silver grey.
John.
John Smith
"John Smith" <johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:WntTc.642$Ho4...@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
Found a place that sells it online for about £35 - B&Q were a touch under
£50. Any views on the hammered versus satin versus smooth finishes for an
outside metal fire escape?
John.
>
John Smith
"John Smith" <johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote in message
> Found a place that sells it online for about £35 - B&Q were a touch under
> £50. Any views on the hammered versus satin versus smooth finishes for an
> outside metal fire escape?
>
>
> John.
Forgot the url...
http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Hammerite%20Hammer%20Finish%20Paint
John.
Dave Plowman (News)
Halfords? Dunno about prices.
--
*Forget about World Peace...Visualize using your turn signal.
Dave Plowman (News)
Steve Firth <usen...@malloc.co.uk> wrote:
> Then you need a good primer and paint. TBH a metal primer and Dulux
> outdoor paint is as good as anything.
Probably. IMHO, Smoothrite's a con.
John Smith
"Steve Firth" <usen...@malloc.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1giiqy6.1rip35nedkizgN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk...
> John Smith <johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote:
>
> > Anyhow, I think it is in danger of rusting through so I am going to get
a
> > drill and a rust attachment on it in the next few days
>
> faster and more thorough than an electric drill. If you choose this
> route, the andle grinders are fairly cheap - can be as cheap as £10 to
> buy. You will also need leather gloves and goggles, probably hearing
> protectors as well.
>
Thanks Steve,
Within about 5 minutes of trying the drill option today I more or less
concluded that it was the wrong tool. I took a look at angle grinders today
and wondered whether they woudl be a better tool - not sure what type 'disc'
to use with one though? Can you suggest one?
Thanks,
John.
Dave Liquorice
>> Then you need a good primer and paint. TBH a metal primer and Dulux
>> outdoor paint is as good as anything.
>
> Probably. IMHO, Smoothrite's a con.
Or if the OP can't find hammerite in stuitable quantites and price he
could try and track down the stuff that vehical restorers rave about
for use on subframes/chassis etc. I think it (or one of them) may have
been mentioned in the last month in here.
raden
Liquorice <new...@howhill.com> writes
>On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 20:41:25 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>
>>> Then you need a good primer and paint. TBH a metal primer and Dulux
>>> outdoor paint is as good as anything.
>>
>> Probably. IMHO, Smoothrite's a con.
>
>Or if the OP can't find hammerite in stuitable quantites and price he
>could try and track down the stuff that vehical restorers rave about
>for use on subframes/chassis etc. I think it (or one of them) may have
>been mentioned in the last month in here.
>
Distributors all over the place, website etc, you can hardly miss it
--
geoff
raden
<usen...@malloc.co.uk> writes
>John Smith <johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote:
>
>> Within about 5 minutes of trying the drill option today I more or less
>> concluded that it was the wrong tool. I took a look at angle grinders today
>> and wondered whether they woudl be a better tool - not sure what type 'disc'
>> to use with one though? Can you suggest one?
>
>cleaning off rust and paint. Use a wire brush. These come in two types
>radial and cup. One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
>are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
>(that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
>brush onto the spindle.
>
>You must wear goggles and gloves. At the speed a grinder operates the
>small particles that break off the wire brush and the particles of paint
>can go right through skin and will make a real mess of your eye. Ear
>defenders a good idea as well.
>
Well, really you need a full kevlar suit
... and a good mp3 player
--
geoff
John Rumm
> Well, really you need a full kevlar suit
A leather apron does as well ;-)
Also get a flap wheel since these are a little less aggressive than the
wire brush. Note also that hammerite can be painted straight onto the
rust without much preparation other than brushing off the loose stuff.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
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\=================================================================/
Dave Plowman (News)
Steve Firth <usen...@malloc.co.uk> wrote:
> Don't use a disk. Angle grinder discs are for cuttting and grinding not
> cleaning off rust and paint. Use a wire brush. These come in two types
> radial and cup. One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
> are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
> (that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
> brush onto the spindle.
Those impregnated plastic thingies are a bit safer than a wire brush, IMHO.
--
*It's o.k. to laugh during sexŚ.Ś.just don't point!
Dave Liquorice
>> Or if the OP can't find hammerite in stuitable
>> quantites and price..
>
> Can't find it ?
>
> Distributors all over the place, website etc,
> you can hardly miss it
Not the word after "and".
John Smith
> John Smith <johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote:
>
> Don't use a disk. Angle grinder discs are for cuttting and grinding not
> cleaning off rust and paint. Use a wire brush. These come in two types
> radial and cup. One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
> are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
> (that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
> brush onto the spindle.
I purchased the cup type yesterday but assumed it was for use on a drill. I
just took a look at the B&D website and buried deep in it is a pic of an
angle grinder using the cup disk. I assume it can be used, as I did, on a
drill anyhow?
John.
Thomas Prufer
>One of each is probably a good idea though cup brushes
>are more common. You remove the disk fitting accesories from the spindle
>(that should be one slip on "washer" and a threaded clamp) and screw the
>brush onto the spindle.
The kind of brush where the wires are twisted into thick ropes (tufts? "tufted
brush", something like that) last longer, IMO. Come in both radial and cup,
ISTR.
>You must wear goggles and gloves. At the speed a grinder operates the
>small particles that break off the wire brush and the particles of paint
>can go right through skin and will make a real mess of your eye. Ear
>defenders a good idea as well.
One standard procedure for removing bits of metal wire and bits of metal spark
from the eyeball is to use a dentists drill, and just remove the middle of the
rust spot with that.
*That* convinced me to keep a dedicated set of goggles with the grinder, just so
I'd never be tempted to not use one.
Thomas Prufer
raden
>
>>> Or if the OP can't find hammerite in stuitable
>>> quantites and price..
>>
>> Can't find it ?
>>
>> Distributors all over the place, website etc,
>> you can hardly miss it
>
>Not the word after "and".
>
--
geoff
Jerry Built
> http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/products.php?cat=Hammerite%20Hammer%20Finish%20Paint
They also sell No. 1, which is IMO better than hammerite
(smooth or hammer finish), and takes a coat of ordinary
gloss very well....
J.B.
Andy Dingley
<see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>> Well, really you need a full kevlar suit
>
>A leather apron does as well ;-)
I have both - for stopping "porcupine gut", you need the leather apron
or welding jacket. Kevlar is too loosely woven and the bristles stick
right through it.
Good quality brushes and using the twisted knot sort make a big
difference.
--
Smert' spamionam
Andy Dingley
<johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote:
>Any views on the hammered versus satin versus smooth finishes for an
>outside metal fire escape?
They're both disastrous (search the ng), but the hammered is worse.
Brushing Hammerite, especially in hot weather, is just asking for
trouble.
--
Smert' spamionam
raden
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> writes
>In article <WntTc.642$Ho4...@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net>,
> John Smith <johnNOS...@NOSPAMhotmailNOSPAM.com> wrote:
>> Thanks both - hammerite it is then. Any one know an online supplier of
>> it in the UK? My local B&Q has 1 one large tin in black... be nice to
>> get the silver grey.
>
>Halfords? Dunno about prices.
>
--
geoff
IMM
"raden" <ra...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:+GG8sBT6...@ntlworld.com...
Morrisons the supermarket (ex Safeway) stock it.