"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?

[Lobster]

The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but
Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity.

I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil,
rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the
other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing
machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to
the content's "weight".

Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can
anyone shed any light on this?

--
David

[ss]

At a guess as I worked for rolls royce oiling machines for a couple of
years around 40 years ago. We used various oils for different machines.
They (from memory) used a numbering system from 10 (very thin) up to 80
(very thick) and the 10 was very light, I recall guys asking for a 30 to
use in their cars so I reckon you are looking for something below that
so I reckon the Woolie one is about right.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

20 is a thick oil, the light stuff won't be at all suitable.

Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain.


NT

[Brian Gaff]

Just don't get it on any kind of friction pads that may be in use.
Is it not about time that exercise machines replaced friction pads with a
device for generating power charge you phone or some such?
Brian

--
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news:e4ob6e...@mid.individual.net...

> Use whatever you have most of.
>
>
> --
> Today is Boomtime, the 48th day of Bureaucracy in the YOLD 3182
> I don't have an attitude problem.
> If you have a problem with my attitude, that's your problem.

[Andy Burns]

Brian Gaff wrote:

> Is it not about time that exercise machines replaced friction pads with a
> device for generating power charge you phone or some such?

Quite a few exercise machines don't use friction pads, but have a magnet
which is moved closer/further from a rotating iron flywheel, generating
resistance by the eddy currents.

[T i m]

I know some motorcycle chain lubes are very sticky so as you say, they
don't get thrown off and I thought some cycle chain lubes were 'dry'
(waxy?) so that the didn't attract dust and dirt (turning the oil
into a grinding paste), not that that should be an issue in the OP's
case. ;-)

So, I would say, if the chain is covered and you are looking for
'exercise' [1], a bit of extra drag from some motorcycle chain lube
might be worth it, should also be offering better protection against
wear (the main idea after all) and not end up all over the place.

I'm also guessing this wouldn't be an 'o-ring' chain so it might
benefit for a good cleaning before a good re-lubing. If you can get it
off easily (joining link?) soak / wash it in some suitable de-greaser
(that would have been petrol in 'my day' <g>), allow to dry and then
I'd put it in my tin of 'Linklife' on the stove. ;-)

I think this is the nearest current equivalent that I have found:

http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=163&products_id=1306

And remember there are two main areas you are trying to lubricate, the
pins, rollers and side plates of the chain itself and the sprocket
teeth where the chain is joining (under load).

Cheers, T i m

1] We generally fit heavier / puncture resistant tyres on our cycles
and tandem because we are looking to use them partly for (fun /
interesting) exercise and partly because we want that exercise to be
from cycling, not repairing punctures or pushing the bikes home. ;-)

[Scott M]

Lobster wrote:
> The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
> every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but
> Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity.

Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil?

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Sunday, 25 September 2016 11:10:55 UTC+1, Scott M wrote:
> Lobster wrote:
> > The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
> > every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but
> > Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity.
>
> Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil?

you don't want oil that degrades.


NT

[Tim+]

Huge <Hu...@nowhere.much.invalid> wrote:
> On 2016-09-24, Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Use whatever you have most of.
>
>

+1

I would use whatever was least messy. A chain is cheap and easy to replace
too. Not worth agonising over the "right" lubricant.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

[Peter Parry]

Weight is as you say related to viscosity and relate to the SAE
designations. SAE 20 (single grade oil) is a 20 weight oil. Modern
vehicle oils are usually dual designation as your 10W40 where it
behaves as a 10 weight oil at low temperature and as a 40 weight oil
at 100degC.

At room temperature 10W30 is pretty close to SAE20 single grade oil.
For a rowing machine chain, as others have said, almost anything will
do.

[Graeme]

In message <XnsA68DE634A8093d...@81.171.92.222>, Lobster
<davidlobs...@hotmail.com> writes

>The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
>every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but
>Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity.
>
>I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil,
>rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the
>other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing
>machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to
>the content's "weight".

Weight is an old fashioned or out of date term, but is indeed the W in
your 10W40. The number before the W indicates how thin or 'runny' the
oil is when cold. The number after the W indicates how runny the same
oil is when hot. Given that the oil on your chain is unlikely to get
hot, you can safely ignore the second number.

Your 10W40 is likely to be a little too thin, or runny, but the only
practical consequence is that it is slightly more likely to splatter in
use, and therefore not last as long. I would either use the 10W40 or
possibly find 20Wanything. If using the 10W40, check after, say, 400
miles and reapply if necessary.

The sewing machine oil will be even thinner than the 10W40, I would
imagine.
--
Graeme

[Lobster]

On 25 Sep 2016, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> grunted:

> On Sat, 24 Sep 2016 16:25:19 -0700 (PDT), tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>On Saturday, 24 September 2016 22:37:47 UTC+1, Lobster wrote:
>>> The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the
>>> chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this
>>> term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading
>>> relating to viscosity.
>>>
>>> I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor
>>> oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight")
>>> and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths",
>>> bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label
>>> has any indication as to the content's "weight".
>>>
>>> Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick,
>>> but can anyone shed any light on this?
>>
>>20 is a thick oil, the light stuff won't be at all suitable.
>>
>>Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's
>>not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off
>>the chain.

> I'm also guessing this wouldn't be an 'o-ring' chain so it might
> benefit for a good cleaning before a good re-lubing. If you can get it
> off easily (joining link?) soak / wash it in some suitable de-greaser
> (that would have been petrol in 'my day' <g>), allow to dry and then
> I'd put it in my tin of 'Linklife' on the stove. ;-)

Ah, that takes me back 30 years! My mum really used to love it when I
boiled up my motorbike chain on her cooker. (Hey, I never did actually
spill it though, mum...!). Actually, I've very recently come back to
motorbikes again after a long layoff, and it seems that method is now
out of favour (I suppose probably because you don't get many non-O-ring
chains these days). Anyway, I don't think it would be appropriate for
my rowing machine, which has a very lightweight chain in comparison to a
motorbike (and it's not done 'de rigeur' for bicycle chains either), and
it could be awful messy in my spare bedroom!

As there seemed to be a lot of disagreement here, I've done some more
digging. Seems that 20-weight oil is what's usually used inside
motorcycle forks or shock absorbers (eg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282042649506). As it's 30+ years since I
last played with that stuff I can't remember what it was like (though I
expect Mum still has half a can in her garage somewhere!); however I had
a look on the website of the rowing machine manufacturer and found a
how-to-do-it maintenance video. This has a bloke using 3-in-1 (ie, the
same as my Woolie's oil as far as I'm concerned!) See
http://tinyurl.com/j9w2smr (2 mins 5 secs in) or
http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/indoor-rowers/model-d/maintenance.
That'll do me.

Thanks all

--
David

[T i m]

On Sun, 25 Sep 2016 12:00:34 +0000 (UTC), Lobster
<davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote:

<snip>

>> I'm also guessing this wouldn't be an 'o-ring' chain so it might
>> benefit for a good cleaning before a good re-lubing. If you can get it
>> off easily (joining link?) soak / wash it in some suitable de-greaser
>> (that would have been petrol in 'my day' <g>), allow to dry and then
>> I'd put it in my tin of 'Linklife' on the stove. ;-)
>
>Ah, that takes me back 30 years! My mum really used to love it when I
>boiled up my motorbike chain on her cooker. (Hey, I never did actually
>spill it though, mum...!).

;-)

>Actually, I've very recently come back to
>motorbikes again after a long layoff, and it seems that method is now
>out of favour (I suppose probably because you don't get many non-O-ring
>chains these days).

It's not here, on my basic bikes (and I still have my tin of Linklife
<g>) and all my bigger bikes are shaft drive anyway. ;-)

>Anyway, I don't think it would be appropriate for
>my rowing machine, which has a very lightweight chain in comparison to a
>motorbike (and it's not done 'de rigeur' for bicycle chains either), and
>it could be awful messy in my spare bedroom!

Quite.

>
>As there seemed to be a lot of disagreement here, I've done some more
>digging. Seems that 20-weight oil is what's usually used inside
>motorcycle forks or shock absorbers (eg
>http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282042649506). As it's 30+ years since I
>last played with that stuff I can't remember what it was like (though I
>expect Mum still has half a can in her garage somewhere!); however I had
>a look on the website of the rowing machine manufacturer and found a
>how-to-do-it maintenance video. This has a bloke using 3-in-1 (ie, the
>same as my Woolie's oil as far as I'm concerned!) See
>http://tinyurl.com/j9w2smr (2 mins 5 secs in) or
>http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/indoor-rowers/model-d/maintenance.
>That'll do me.

Ah, now that's more like a jewellery 'chain' than anything typically
transmission orientated <g> so yes, all you would need is for it to be
given a light oiling to ensure oil gets inside the rollers and a very
light surface coating to prevent rust.

In this case it's not necessarily what's bet for the chain but what is
the best compromise for a chain being used in that environment (more
like a tension / recoil starter cord than a chain as such.

Our Tunturi exercise cycle uses an enclosed toothed belt that is both
maintenance free and silent and you can get them quite fine and
endless so I'm surprised they aren't used for things like your rowing
machine?

Looking at the parts diagram it seems the chain is retracted by a
compound pulley system and some shock cord. It would be easier with a
tooth belt as they can be 'coiled up' around a tension pulley etc.

Have you tried one of the water rowers (and I don't mean 'a boat').
;-)?

Cheers, T i m

[dennis@home]

On 25/09/2016 11:10, Scott M wrote:
> Lobster wrote:
>> The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the
>> chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term
>> before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating
>> to viscosity.
>
> Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil?
>

Chainsaw oil gets chucked about, it is just formulated so it doesn't
kill the operator when he breaths it in.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <XnsA68DE634A8093d...@81.171.92.222>,

Use the thickest oil you can find. Extra friction will get you fit sooner.

--
*Give me ambiguity or give me something else.

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Chris Green]

Surely it's not the operator they care about, it's the 'environment'.
Chainsaw oil is organic/vegetable oil that won't do any harm when
sprayed atound the woods/garden etc.

--
Chris Green
·

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 25/09/16 00:25, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Saturday, 24 September 2016 22:37:47 UTC+1, Lobster wrote:
>> The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
>> every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but
>> Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity.
>>
>> I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil,
>> rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the
>> other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing
>> machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to
>> the content's "weight".
>>
>> Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can
>> anyone shed any light on this?
>
> 20 is a thick oil, the light stuff won't be at all suitable.

No, its a thin oil

>
> Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain.
>
>
> NT
>

--
The theory of Communism may be summed up in one sentence: Abolish all
private property.

Karl Marx

[Weatherlawyer]

All that you need for oiling a bike is a strip drawn along the top of the chain to where you are put off by the rear fork. If you do this before a warm up and then get off and run the chain through a rag, all the excess will come off.

The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up.

You are not going to stress any moving parts at that rate for some considerable time.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:

> The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up.

Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck.


NT

[Weatherlawyer]

So how fast is rowing?

[The Natural Philosopher]

WEll if you look at the boats following the varsity thames race, most of
them are on the step and planing, so its gotta be around 10mph or more

I reckon a skiff well rowed by a fit person is easily 5-6mph.

But a dinghy is probably only walking pace.


--
Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.

(Seneca the Younger, 65 AD)

[DerbyBorn]

>
Vintage car owners often use single grade engine oils. They are available

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Monday, 26 September 2016 07:23:02 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> On 26/09/16 06:30, Weatherlawyer wrote:
> > On Sunday, 25 September 2016 22:31:55 UTC+1, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:
> >>
> >>> The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up.
> >>
> >> Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck.
> >
> > So how fast is rowing?
> >
> WEll if you look at the boats following the varsity thames race, most of
> them are on the step and planing, so its gotta be around 10mph or more
>
> I reckon a skiff well rowed by a fit person is easily 5-6mph.
>
> But a dinghy is probably only walking pace.

I don't know exact figures, but no way did I only do 4mph, probably nearer 12.


NT

[Adrian]

On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 08:32:54 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:


> Vintage car owners often use single grade engine oils. They are
> available

They are, but they're much more expensive and - in this instance -
irrelevant.

20w50 will be the same viscosity as a straight 20 when it's cold. When
it's hot, it'll still be much thinner than it was when it was cold, but
not as thin as a hot 20. It'll be the same viscosity as a hot straight 50.

[newshound]

No, 20 is fairly thin. Personally I would use a spray formulated for
chains, this is "sticky" to reduce drips and is easy to apply.
Toolstation does one. That said, the Woolies one should be OK as well

[newshound]

On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote:


I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?)

[Bob Eager]

On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote:

> On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote:
>
>
> I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?)

I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

[The Natural Philosopher]

In what boat?

I can believe that for a racing skiff, but not a fishing skiff or a dinghy.




> NT
>


--
"What do you think about Gay Marriage?"
"I don't."
"Don't what?"
"Think about Gay Marriage."

[T i m]

It very much depends on the boat, conditions and the fitness of the
rower.

I'd say most people could row a 'std' rowing dinghy at about walking
pace, given no 'tide' or wind.

When rowing our 3m folding dinghy the other day we were 3 up and a dog
and *I* was probably doing better than walking speed but my Mrs and
daughter were slower. I've since got some longer oars so could
probably go faster on my own. Our 16' GRP Thames skiff is a real
delight to row and with me rowing (3 up) was able to out-row 4
'blokes' in a similar size and shape boat (for obvious reasons known
to me but not them). ;-)

I think the fastest rowing boat are the 8's and they are around 20
mph?

I'm not aware of any non-displacement rowing boat (but there probably
are some).

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

On 26 Sep 2016 09:42:29 GMT, Bob Eager <news...@eager.cx> wrote:

>On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote:
>
>> On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote:
>>
>>
>> I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?)
>
>I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden.

You don't need to suffer such restrictions when it's yer wife's bike
chain you are doing. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Monday, 26 September 2016 10:54:52 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

> On 26/09/16 09:38, tabbypurr wrote:
> > On Monday, 26 September 2016 07:23:02 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> >> On 26/09/16 06:30, Weatherlawyer wrote:

> >>> On Sunday, 25 September 2016 22:31:55 UTC+1, tabbypurr wrote:
> >>>> On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:

> >>>>> The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up.
> >>>>
> >>>> Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck.
> >>>
> >>> So how fast is rowing?
> >>>
> >> WEll if you look at the boats following the varsity thames race, most of
> >> them are on the step and planing, so its gotta be around 10mph or more
> >>
> >> I reckon a skiff well rowed by a fit person is easily 5-6mph.
> >>
> >> But a dinghy is probably only walking pace.
> >
> > I don't know exact figures, but no way did I only do 4mph, probably nearer 12.
>
> In what boat?

Pencil scull. For anyone not familiar, they're very narrow and completely unstable. But fast.

> I can believe that for a racing skiff, but not a fishing skiff or a dinghy.

No :)


NT

[newshound]

On 9/26/2016 10:42 AM, Bob Eager wrote:
> On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote:
>
>> On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote:
>>
>>
>> I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?)
>
> I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden.
>

<Yorkshire>
House with two stoves? Luxury
<\Yorkshire>

[Alan Braggins]

On 2016-09-26, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
> I'm not aware of any non-displacement rowing boat (but there probably
> are some).

http://windwaterearthmind.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/sculling-hydrofoil-1975-and-2012-as.html

[Bob Eager]

I was 17 at the time and it wasn't a wife I worried about!

[T i m]

On 26 Sep 2016 15:55:15 +0100 (BST), Alan Braggins

I thought someone might have tried it! ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

On 26 Sep 2016 15:00:13 GMT, Bob Eager <news...@eager.cx> wrote:

>On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 13:36:27 +0100, T i m wrote:
>
>> On 26 Sep 2016 09:42:29 GMT, Bob Eager <news...@eager.cx> wrote:
>>
>>>On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?)
>>>
>>>I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden.
>>
>> You don't need to suffer such restrictions when it's yer wife's bike
>> chain you are doing. ;-)
>
>I was 17 at the time and it wasn't a wife I worried about!

Ah, understood. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[Steve W]

Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
> every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but
> Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity.
>
> I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil,
> rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the
> other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing
> machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to
> the content's "weight".
>
> Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can
> anyone shed any light on this?

See http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/indoor-rowers/model-d/maintenance
where they recomend 3-in-one. I've still got some of the oil that came
with my machine and it's similar in viscosity so your Woolies is
probably fine.

--
Steve W

[stvl...@googlemail.com]

> Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain.
>
>
> NT

=I'm sure that you've got that wrong; multigrade oil offers the characturistics of a thin oil at low temperatures to reduce friction when starting, and a thick oil at higher temperatures to protect bearings under heavy load.

[Chris B]

You got it right with "characteristics of". It doesnt mean its actually
thicker at high temperature. A simplified diagramme is here

http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/images/graph_3_viscosity_multigrade.jpg


--
Chris B (News)

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

On 24/09/2016 22:37, Lobster wrote:
> The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
> every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but
> Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity.
>
> I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil,
> rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the
> other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing
> machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to
> the content's "weight".
>
> Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can
> anyone shed any light on this?

It's not a chain that gets dirty like a bicycle, doesn't travel very
fast even if attempting to row fast so doesn't need anti-fling properties.

I'd say just give it a wipe over then use a bit of the Woolies oil. If
you wipe the chain with a bit of clean tissue and there's still a clean
oily residue I'd not even bother re-oiling it. The "service schedule" is
there to cover all questions I shouldn't wonder and to cover
manufacturer. No gym will ever give their rower any form of service or
maintenance.