CFLs and LEDs

[wrights...@f2s.com]

I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much brighter and give a better colour light.
Bill

[Tim+]

And you’re surprised?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

[Paul]

On 10/1/2022 3:29 PM, wrights...@f2s.com wrote:
> I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much brighter and give a better colour light.
> Bill
>

LEDs are sorted by colour temperature. And you can have
as much "brightness" as you can stand.

For example, a 9000K LED is "too blue" for me.

A 2500K LED is "too reddish". Some of the "warm" LED
bulbs, have actually had a couple red LEDs inside the
bulb, to give it the hint of a reddish tone (Philips).

The LED you got might have been 4000K or 4500K. These
are all nominally white LEDs (white colour distribution),
but the colour temperature is shifted to emulate a
particular kind of existing light.

Fluorescents also received some phosphor work, and there
are ones with a Daylight rating, which will be brighter
like your LEDs. Making phosphors is hard, because
the material must be cheap to make in bulk. You cannot
go overboard on the rare earth materials.

Some people select particular light types, to counter
winter depression. So it seems like it is "always summer"
in the house.

At some stores here, the LEDs are on display, so the
customers can make better selections while at the
store, and not regret what they bought later.

When I bought a particular LED bulb years ago,
on the outside of the package it said
"this bulb is NOT yellow". When I compared the light
emitted, to an existing LED in the house, well,
the light was yellow. You can't make this stuff up :-)
The plastic on the bulb appeared yellow... and
shocker, so was the light that came out :-)

"Philips bulb with the remote phosphor panels (the yellow bit)"

https://qph.cf2.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-d9a3fec685634fe40d72e194d76ddf3e-lq

One of those lights the room I'm in. Because the light is NOT yellow.

Paul

[wrights...@f2s.com]

Yes because CFLs are supposed to be very efficient. That's what they told us...

[Rod Speed]

wrights...@f2s.com <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote

> Tim+ wrote
>> wrights...@f2s.com <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote

>> > I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much
>> > brighter and give a better colour light.

>> And you’re surprised?

> Yes because CFLs are supposed to be very efficient. That's what they
> told us...

They said that back in the days when CFLs were being spruiked.

They never said that they were very efficient compared with LEDs

[Tim+]

CFLs were only efficient compared to tungsten. They were a transient
abomination whose efficiency was surpassed by LEDs *years* ago.

[Peeler]

On Sun, 02 Oct 2022 16:11:17 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

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[Martin Brown]

On 02/10/2022 08:23, Tim+ wrote:
> wrights...@f2s.com <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote:
>> On Saturday, 1 October 2022 at 21:19:03 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
>>> wrights...@f2s.com <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote:
>>>> I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much
>>>> brighter and give a better colour light.
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>> And you’re surprised?
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> --
>>> Please don't feed the trolls
>> Yes because CFLs are supposed to be very efficient. That's what they told us...
>>
>
> CFLs were only efficient compared to tungsten. They were a transient
> abomination whose efficiency was surpassed by LEDs *years* ago.

Less than 10 years ago. CFLs had been around for a lot longer.

There were a handful of research grade LEDs made that could achieve
extremely high efficacy in the lab on a near infinite heat sink. But
they were still a very long way away from being consumer products.

This is a puff piece for Cree who were at the time world leaders:

https://www.cortemgroup.com/en/news/the-rapid-evolution-of-led-more-lumens-and-less-actual-energy-consumption

It was around 2015 when they really became competitive in brightness
(but still rather expensive per bulb ISTR around £10 each).


--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[Brian Gaff]

Do they still exhibit the slowly getting brighter issue of cfls. Obviously
its mostly visitors that use the lights, but still.
I was also wondering what to do about a thorne fitting of two tubes with
two 40 watt tubes in it. It would be nice to use LED tube replacements, but
I seem to only see thin ones. Also I did have a notion it might be fun to
hide a small device like the Alexa switched socket inside the device to turn
it on and off with, but it is actually too big. You really need a module for
that I think.
Brian

--

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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"wrights...@f2s.com" <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote in message
news:117b2088-43f5-4946...@googlegroups.com...

[Brian Gaff]

I remember when they first appeared noting with my failing sight that it
seemed a grainy light, almost speckled.

My feeling is that some of the most efficient phosphors are not very
daylight like at all, and have big holeds in the visual spectrum.

Brian

--

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"wrights...@f2s.com" <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote in message

news:26b63aee-5bd3-4251...@googlegroups.com...

[Brian Gaff]

When I had a video camera here and could see, I remember noting that all
faces were yellow with the gas tube technology, and you needed at least
some tungsten technology as well to make people look more like humans and
not aliens. You could to some extent move camera controls to make it see
better but when you went outside it looked awful.

Brian

--

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"Paul" <nos...@needed.invalid> wrote in message
news:tha7pt$jpk$1...@gioia.aioe.org...

[David Wade]

On 02/10/2022 11:29, Brian Gaff wrote:
> Do they still exhibit the slowly getting brighter issue of cfls. Obviously
> its mostly visitors that use the lights, but still.
> I was also wondering what to do about a thorne fitting of two tubes with
> two 40 watt tubes in it. It would be nice to use LED tube replacements, but
> I seem to only see thin ones. Also I did have a notion it might be fun to
> hide a small device like the Alexa switched socket inside the device to turn
> it on and off with, but it is actually too big. You really need a module for
> that I think.

There are plenty of small ALEXA capable modules on Amazon. I have a
couple for my kitchen down lights.

> Brian
>


Dave

[Andy Burns]

Martin Brown wrote:

> It was around 2015 when they really became competitive in brightness (but still
> rather expensive per bulb ISTR around £10 each).

Yes, around that time I became happy with 13W LEDs as true "100W equivalent"
replacements, that didn't burn out in short order.

Johnny B Good can finally buy his 200 lm/W LEDs, provided 60W is enough and it
doesn't need to be dimmable or use bayonet fitting ...

<https://argos.co.uk/search/ultra-led>

[NY]

"Brian Gaff" <brian...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:thbpbm$1m2rl$1...@dont-email.me...

> I remember when they first appeared noting with my failing sight that it
> seemed a grainy light, almost speckled.

We used daylight-colour CFLs (*) in our last house and the colour *looked*
pretty good - occasionally I've forgotten that the light was on, thinking it
was daylight coming in through the window. There was a *very* pale green
cast when seen by eye, but this was only apparent at night, maybe when the
CFL was the only source of light without any daylight from outside. But a
camera that was white-balanced to "daylight" (probably around 6000K) saw the
CFLs as being a bit orange. Shows how the sensitivity of the eye and of a
camera can differ.

We've still got those CFLs in the garage in case we ever need them, but
we've gone over to Philips Hue LED bulbs - mostly arrays of GU10 because our
new house had already been wired for GU10s in the kitchen and bedrooms. I
removed lots of tungsten GU10s which must have used a lot of power, and
replaced them with either Philips Hue where we wanted control over
colour/brightness or normal LED of either "daylight" or "tungsten" colour.

Interesting , Brian, that CFLs looked "grainy" and "speckled". That almost
suggests coherent light that you'd get with a laser


(*) Supposedly designed to give high colour rendition index so as to compare
well with natural daylight.

[NY]

"Brian Gaff" <brian...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:thbpjq$1m3e7$1...@dont-email.me...

> When I had a video camera here and could see, I remember noting that all
> faces were yellow with the gas tube technology, and you needed at least
> some tungsten technology as well to make people look more like humans and
> not aliens. You could to some extent move camera controls to make it see
> better but when you went outside it looked awful.

Probably the CFLs were designed to look "warm" so as to match tungsten or
"warm white" fluorescent tubes. Interesting that CFLs looked *more* yellow
than with tungsten light, via the video camera. Once you'd white-balanced
the camera for those CFLs and/or tungsten lights, daylight would look very
blue. That was one of the perils with video cameras that only had a
black-and-white viewfinder: you could not see any colour cast. When I was
filming my sister's wedding, I'd manually balanced (*) the camera for the
indoor lighting and then went outside to film some guests: until I
remembered, the outside scenes were very blue. With a colour viewfinder, I'd
have noticed instantly.


(*) The auto white-balance that you get on a lot of modern cameras works
surprisingly well, but it can lead to rather colourless photos outdoors, so
I tend to white-balance off a sheet of paper and then keep that setting (if
the lighting is non-standard) or else use one of the preset colour
balances - especially with my DSLR which suffers badly if left on auto WB
when used outdoors.

[Brian]

CFLs were very much a compromise but LEDs are, even now, far from perfect
in some applications. Most of our lights are LED but we have a few
Halogens, mainly for detailed work eg Senior Management does a lot of cross
stitch etc and I’ve yet to find a suitable LED light for her work light.
Ditto my work bench where I do electronics etc.

We have some wall lights, which we really like, in two rooms, and it took
ages to find suitable LED bulbs for those ( golf ball dimmable which are
bright enough on full). I’d bought a huge stock of tungsten bulbs just in
case!

I had a similar problem finding suitable LED equivalents for some other
fittings which used 2x 40w halogens. The early ones which claimed to be
40W equivalents were like cigarette ends. Eventually I found some.

I’ve replaced most of the tubes in the garage with LED tubes - one left to
do. They are great, far brighter. I must do the remaining one!

[Rod Speed]

Brian Gaff <brian...@gmail.com> wrote

> Do they still exhibit the slowly getting brighter issue of cfls.

Dunno, ever got any new ones since LEDs became viable.

> Obviously its mostly visitors that use the lights, but still.

> I was also wondering what to do about a thorne fitting of two tubes with
> two 40 watt tubes in it. It would be nice to use LED tube replacements,
> but I seem to only see thin ones.

Some of the Philips Hue bulbs arent thin. More of a cone
shape than the original incandescent bulbs, but work
fine where the normal incandescent bulbs were used.

> Also I did have a notion it might be fun to
> hide a small device like the Alexa switched socket inside the device to
> turn
> it on and off with, but it is actually too big.

Makes more sense to use Philips Hue smart bulbs.

> You really need a module for that I think.

Nope, smart bulbs eliminate the need for any module.

[Peeler]

On Mon, 03 Oct 2022 06:45:42 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent

Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

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[Animal]

On Saturday, 1 October 2022 at 21:26:41 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
> On 10/1/2022 3:29 PM, wrights...@f2s.com wrote:
> > I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much brighter and give a better colour light.
> > Bill
> >
> LEDs are sorted by colour temperature. And you can have
> as much "brightness" as you can stand.
>
> For example, a 9000K LED is "too blue" for me.
>
> A 2500K LED is "too reddish". Some of the "warm" LED
> bulbs, have actually had a couple red LEDs inside the
> bulb, to give it the hint of a reddish tone (Philips).
>
> The LED you got might have been 4000K or 4500K. These

it could be anything. It's most probably 2700K.
Any respectable LED lamp outputs more than typical CFL, which had misleading output equivalence claims.

> are all nominally white LEDs (white colour distribution),
> but the colour temperature is shifted to emulate a
> particular kind of existing light.

no, lighting LEDs are cool white, 2700K are made by colouring the layer over the semiconductor light yellow.

> Fluorescents also received some phosphor work, and there
> are ones with a Daylight rating, which will be brighter
> like your LEDs.

CCT and efficacy in fluorescents are 2 separate things. In LEDs, warm white are necessarily a bit lower efficacy.

> Making phosphors is hard, because
> the material must be cheap to make in bulk. You cannot
> go overboard on the rare earth materials.
>
> Some people select particular light types, to counter
> winter depression. So it seems like it is "always summer"
> in the house.

They normally select regular RGB white marketed as continuous spectrum.

> At some stores here, the LEDs are on display, so the
> customers can make better selections while at the
> store, and not regret what they bought later.
>
> When I bought a particular LED bulb years ago,
> on the outside of the package it said
> "this bulb is NOT yellow". When I compared the light
> emitted, to an existing LED in the house, well,
> the light was yellow. You can't make this stuff up :-)
> The plastic on the bulb appeared yellow... and
> shocker, so was the light that came out :-)

usual marketing then

[wrights...@f2s.com]

On Monday, 3 October 2022 at 01:25:44 UTC+1, Animal wrote:


> > The LED you got might have been 4000K or 4500K. These
> it could be anything. It's most probably 2700K.

I like 4000K

Bill

[Martin Brown]

On 03/10/2022 01:25, Animal wrote:
> On Saturday, 1 October 2022 at 21:26:41 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
>> On 10/1/2022 3:29 PM, wrights...@f2s.com wrote:
>>> I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much brighter and give a better colour light.
>>> Bill

CFLs always overstated their luminous equivalence to filament bulbs
whereas most LED bulbs are basically honest. It caught me out with one I
put in my parents bathroom (to be instant on unlike ageing CFL) being
far too bright!

>> are all nominally white LEDs (white colour distribution),
>> but the colour temperature is shifted to emulate a
>> particular kind of existing light.
>
> no, lighting LEDs are cool white, 2700K are made by colouring the layer over the semiconductor light yellow.

That yellow colour is not a passive filter it is a red/yellow/green
emitting phosphor that is excited by the incredibly bright blue LED
behind it. The mixture produces what we perceive as white light. See:

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/351539/why-does-the-led-light-colour-spectrum-spike-in-the-blue-and-green-wavelengths-b

Tweak the phosphor and you can alter the perceived colour temperature.

>> Fluorescents also received some phosphor work, and there
>> are ones with a Daylight rating, which will be brighter
>> like your LEDs.
>
> CCT and efficacy in fluorescents are 2 separate things. In LEDs, warm white are necessarily a bit lower efficacy.

CFLs have an incredibly bright mercury green line augmented by a red
phosphor. It looks approximately white to humans but not to film.

>> Some people select particular light types, to counter
>> winter depression. So it seems like it is "always summer"
>> in the house.
>
> They normally select regular RGB white marketed as continuous spectrum.

Unclear that it makes any difference though. The blue light from a
standard white LED and its intensity matters much more.

If you were a plant then the blue + red + nearIR LED matrix lamps are
all the rage now. No point shining green light at a green plant!

https://growlightinfo.com/why-are-grow-lights-purple/

I don't agree with their claim that plants need some green light - they
need some additional light wavelengths in the near IR (which would not
be present if you use exclusively red and blue LEDs).

>> When I bought a particular LED bulb years ago,
>> on the outside of the package it said
>> "this bulb is NOT yellow". When I compared the light
>> emitted, to an existing LED in the house, well,
>> the light was yellow. You can't make this stuff up :-)
>> The plastic on the bulb appeared yellow... and
>> shocker, so was the light that came out :-)
>
> usual marketing then

Odd. It is quite hard to make a super bright yellow LED and there isn't
much call for them. I find the claim less than credible. The phosphor
always looks a some shade of yellow in daylight.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[Chris Green]

Animal <tabb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> CCT and efficacy in fluorescents are 2 separate things. In LEDs, warm white
> are necessarily a bit lower efficacy.
>

I asume you mean efficiency and not efficacy, quite different meanings.

--
Chris Green
·

[Jim Stewart ...]

On 01/10/2022 20:29, wrights...@f2s.com wrote:
> I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much brighter and give a better colour light.
> Bill

no shit sherlock

[Jeff Layman]

On 03/10/2022 09:14, Martin Brown wrote:
> On 03/10/2022 01:25, Animal wrote:
>> On Saturday, 1 October 2022 at 21:26:41 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
>>> On 10/1/2022 3:29 PM, wrights...@f2s.com wrote:
>>>> I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much brighter and give a better colour light.
>>>> Bill
>
> CFLs always overstated their luminous equivalence to filament bulbs
> whereas most LED bulbs are basically honest. It caught me out with one I
> put in my parents bathroom (to be instant on unlike ageing CFL) being
> far too bright!

Other way round IMHO - or it certainly used to be. I have bought several
leds (particularly G9s) where it was quite obvious the lumen figure
stated on the pack was nowhere near to what the led was actually giving
- often it seemed to be around half (I also checked using my camera's
exposure reading vs a new filament bulb. The led required almost double
the exposure). CFLs, however, when new, and given a minute to attain
full output seemed as bright as their filament equivalent. I also prefer
the glare-free light from CFLs compared to that from leds (although the
latter are much better in frosted glass).

--

Jeff

[Fredxx]

I can assure you not all LEDs are the same, and some don't live up to
their expectations.

[SteveW]

I must have been lucky, all of the LED lights that I bought have been
far brighter (and better coloured) than CFLs, except for the 4 GU10 that
were my first LED purchase - that was in the early days though.

[Martin Brown]

Small format quartz halogen replacements have always been particularly
dodgy since they tend to die horribly in the thermally isolated
enclosure that was designed to prevent a red hot bulb starting a fire.

LEDs don't make much waste heat but must be able to get rid of what
little they do create or it cooks the electrolytic capacitors until they
fail.


--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[ARW]

On 02/10/2022 09:49, Martin Brown wrote:

>
> It was around 2015 when they really became competitive in brightness
> (but still rather expensive per bulb ISTR around £10 each).
>
>

I agree with that.

The LED I fitted on Lou's standard lamp in 2015 is still working fine.

I pretty much went LED as soon as I could as I was able to get most of
the lamps (BC GLS) for free.

[Tim+]

7 years is still “*years* ago”. ;-)

Yes, CFLs were around longer. They were still an abomination that I was
delighted to see the back of.

[Paul]

It's a remote phosphor bulb. The phosphor is coated on the three
plastic facets on the outer diameter of the bulb, rather than
slathered on the tiny blue LEDs inside. This was supposed
to be an efficiency optimization, to prevent what is termed
"smothering" by some. It was a design by Philips, back when they
were Philips and not just a brand name China bought. The bulbs Philips
brand vends now, are pretty ordinary (poor power factor, expiry before
hitting 10,000 hours, and so on).

The plastic facets, for some reason, have a yellow cast to them. And
when comparing the light to a second LED on the kitchen wall, the
light from the remote phosphor bulb was yellow (not orange or warm,
just plain old banana yellow cast to the light). I can compare
other LED bulbs to one another, and see they are attempts at
colour temperature shift, and not just an attempt at a filtered colour.

You get used to it after a while.

Paul

[SteveW]

None of our LEDs have failed yet, except for a single GLS style one, in
an open fitting. The GU10s and MR16s are all still on their originals
(bathroom, second toilet and kitchen ones were all put in between 5 and
6 years ago).

The four from the first purchase were replaced a year or so later, due
to poor output in the first place. All the ones that we have had since
then have been fine.

Of course that may not be the experience of others.

[Andrew]

On 03/10/2022 14:55, ARW wrote:
> On 02/10/2022 09:49, Martin Brown wrote:
>
>>
>> It was around 2015 when they really became competitive in brightness
>> (but still rather expensive per bulb ISTR around £10 each).
>>
>>
>
> I agree with that.
>
> The LED I fitted on Lou's standard lamp in 2015 is still working fine.

The 60 watt Woolworths incandescent bulb that I put in my bathroom
in 1991 is still working fine. Only used briefly during hours of
darkness.

[Rod Speed]

Philips isnt just a brand name that China bought, most obviously
with their Hue system.

> The bulbs Philips
> brand vends now, are pretty ordinary (poor power factor, expiry before
> hitting 10,000 hours, and so on).

Thats bullshit with the Hue bulbs.

[Peeler]

On Tue, 04 Oct 2022 03:57:21 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent

Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

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[Animal]

No I mean efficacy, which effectively means efficiency. This comes up every time.

[Chris Green]

Efficacy is whether something is good at what it does, efficiency is
specifically how something uses the power provided to it.

--
Chris Green
·

[Tim+]

Whilst similar, a bulb that consumed 500W to produce 1600 lumens say (100W
tungsten equivalent) may be perfectly efficacious at replacing a 100 W
tungsten bulb, it wouldn’t be at all efficient. Efficacy is usually applied
to a result or outcome, not necessarily the efficiency with which that
result is achieved.

It all depends on what aspect of the bulb you’re applying the term to.

efficacious /ef-i-kāˈshəs/
adjective
Able to produce the result intended
ORIGIN: L efficāx, -ācis, from efficere; see efficient
efficāˈciously adverb
efficāˈciousness, efficacity /-kasˈi-ti/ or effˈicacy /-kə-si/ noun
The power of producing an effect
Effectiveness

[Chris B]

On 04/10/2022 09:37, Chris Green wrote:
> Animal <tabb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Efficacy is whether something is good at what it does, efficiency is
> specifically how something uses the power provided to it.

Either way I saw from the eFixx youtube channel the other day that the
highly efficient "Dubai" Led lamp (previously featured on Big Clive many
months ago (and then only available in Dubai) will soon be on sale in
the UK - I hate to think what it will cost.
>

--
Chris B (News)

[Andy Burns]

Chris B wrote:

> the highly efficient "Dubai" Led lamp (previously featured on Big Clive many
> months ago (and then only available in Dubai) will soon be on sale in the UK
> - I hate to think what it will cost.

Those are the Phillips ones available in Argos and John Lewis I linked somewhere
up there ^^^^^^

<https://argos.co.uk/search/ultra-led>

[Andy Burns]

> Those are the Phillips ones available in Argos and John Lewis I linked somewhere
> up there ^^^^^^
>
> <https://argos.co.uk/search/ultra-led>

hmm, argos broke the search results, try this

<https://www.argos.co.uk/search/ultra-60w-led/?clickOrigin=searchbar:search:term:ultra+60w+led>

or this

<https://www.johnlewis.com/philips-60w-e27-led-non-dimmable-classic-bulb-clear/p6040141>

[Chris B]

Thanks for that, still quite expensive initially then (but payoff if you
live long enough). Also when Big Clive did the review they were cool
white only (Favoured in Dubai apparently - they like to give interiors a
cool feel) seems Argos is 3000K (white) and Lewis's 4000K (cool white)
--
Chris B (News)

[Andy Burns]

Chris B wrote:

> seems Argos is 3000K (white)  and Lewis's 4000K (cool white)

treat the argos specs with some suspicion, as it says the 60W version is
"siri compatible"

[Andy Burns]

Chris B wrote:

> when Big Clive did the review they were cool white only
> (Favoured in Dubai apparently - they like to give interiors a cool feel) seems
> Argos is 3000K (white)  and Lewis's 4000K (cool white)

The phillips datasheet that argos link to says 4000K

<https://documents.4rgos.it/v1/static/2027373_R_D010>

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <117b2088-43f5-4946...@googlegroups.com>,

wrights...@f2s.com <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote:
> I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much
> brighter and give a better colour light. Bill

I hated the light quality from early LEDs. But current ones seem a decent
enough match to halogen, and with a fairly continuous spectrum. And also
don't tend to lie so much about their output against halogen.

--
*If you remember the '60s, you weren't really there

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <26b63aee-5bd3-4251...@googlegroups.com>,

wrights...@f2s.com <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote:
> On Saturday, 1 October 2022 at 21:19:03 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

> > wrights...@f2s.com <wrights...@f2s.com> wrote:
> > > I replaced some 20W CFLs with some 15W LEDs and the latter are much
> > > brighter and give a better colour light.
> > > Bill
> > >

> > And you‘re surprised?

> >
> > Tim
> >
> > --
> > Please don't feed the trolls

> Yes because CFLs are supposed to be very efficient. That's what they told us...

I had florries lighting the under cupboard worktops. Posh tubes with Osram
dimming ballasts.

Now changed to dimming LED tubes.

The 6ft tri-phosphor florrie was 70w. The 6 ft LED tube, 32W.

--
*Gravity is a myth, the earth sucks *

[Andy Burns]

Dave Plowman wrote:

> I had florries lighting the under cupboard worktops. Posh tubes with Osram
> dimming ballasts.
>
> Now changed to dimming LED tubes.

What was the story at the end with those? You had to use a different driver?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <jq30ah...@mid.individual.net>,

The drivers they supplied were different from the ones on their site. Same
price, but adjustable, rather than fixed current, as on their site.
Measured the actual current when set to the correct one, and it was low.
So moved it up to the next one. The two tubes now match.

--
*Verbs HAS to agree with their subjects *

[Animal]

On Tuesday, 4 October 2022 at 09:48:06 UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:
> Animal <tabb...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Monday, 3 October 2022 at 09:18:07 UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:
> > > Animal <tabb...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > CCT and efficacy in fluorescents are 2 separate things. In LEDs, warm white
> > > > are necessarily a bit lower efficacy.
> > > >
> > > I asume you mean efficiency and not efficacy, quite different meanings.
> >
> > No I mean efficacy, which effectively means efficiency. This comes up every time.

> Efficacy is whether something is good at what it does, efficiency is
> specifically how something uses the power provided to it.

you're free to educate yourself on the subject of lighting, or not.