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Cut 1/2" off a UPVC window?
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JD
May 26, 2015, 11:28:46 AM5/26/15
to
Hi folks,
I've got a UPVC double-glazed window that is perfect for my purposes except
that it is 1/2" too tall. You might ask me why I don't make the opening
bigger, but it's really not easy, as the house is built of hard stone, and
there is a shaped stone sill at the bottom and a stone lintel at the top,
both of which I'd like to avoid carving up.
I wonder if I can take 1/2" off the bottom of the frame with a circular
saw. Once the window in place and securely bedded in with expanding foam,
the fact that I cut 1/2" off is not likely to cause any problems, is it?
(The window is about 33" wide and 56" tall. The bottom half has a fixed
pane and the top half has a top-hung opening.
Many thanks...
JD
I've got a UPVC double-glazed window that is perfect for my purposes except
that it is 1/2" too tall. You might ask me why I don't make the opening
bigger, but it's really not easy, as the house is built of hard stone, and
there is a shaped stone sill at the bottom and a stone lintel at the top,
both of which I'd like to avoid carving up.
I wonder if I can take 1/2" off the bottom of the frame with a circular
saw. Once the window in place and securely bedded in with expanding foam,
the fact that I cut 1/2" off is not likely to cause any problems, is it?
(The window is about 33" wide and 56" tall. The bottom half has a fixed
pane and the top half has a top-hung opening.
Many thanks...
JD
harryagain
May 26, 2015, 12:11:07 PM5/26/15
to
"JD" <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote in message
news:XnsA4A6A80417...@130.133.4.11...
The frame is hollow and contains square metal reinforcment pieces.
These keep the frame stiff and catch the screws for the hinges etc
You might be able to trim a very small amount off top and bottom so long as
you don't cut into the hollow bit
JD
May 26, 2015, 12:32:41 PM5/26/15
to
"harryagain" <harry...@btinternet.com> wrote in
news:mk25si$73a$1...@dont-email.me:
> I would say no.
> The frame is hollow and contains square metal reinforcment pieces.
> These keep the frame stiff and catch the screws for the hinges etc
> You might be able to trim a very small amount off top and bottom so
> long as you don't cut into the hollow bit
There are no hinges in the bottom half of the window. Unfortunately,
shaving the ridges off the top and bottom isn't quite going to be enough.
JD
news:mk25si$73a$1...@dont-email.me:
> I would say no.
> The frame is hollow and contains square metal reinforcment pieces.
> These keep the frame stiff and catch the screws for the hinges etc
> You might be able to trim a very small amount off top and bottom so
> long as you don't cut into the hollow bit
shaving the ridges off the top and bottom isn't quite going to be enough.
JD
harryagain
May 26, 2015, 2:03:34 PM5/26/15
to
news:XnsA4A6B2DBA9...@130.133.4.11...
Well then, it's a no no.
Phil L
May 26, 2015, 2:13:51 PM5/26/15
to
news:XnsA4A6A80417...@130.133.4.11...
You can safely take 1/4 off both top and bottom, even more if you want, I've
done it with hundreds of pvc frames.
An electric plane might be best as there are plastic ribs that are about 7
or 8 mm high, often once these are off, it will fit, but if not, take a few
more mm off top and bottom until it will fit
done it with hundreds of pvc frames.
An electric plane might be best as there are plastic ribs that are about 7
or 8 mm high, often once these are off, it will fit, but if not, take a few
more mm off top and bottom until it will fit
ARW
May 26, 2015, 2:14:47 PM5/26/15
to
"harryagain" <harry...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:mk2cfd$3r1$1...@dont-email.me...
I have seen it done at work.
--
Adam
news:mk2cfd$3r1$1...@dont-email.me...
--
Adam
JD
May 27, 2015, 3:28:56 AM5/27/15
to
"Phil L" <neverc...@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:wJ29x.862360$wk1....@fx19.am4:
Thanks for the tip, Phil. I may have to plane it down past the flat part
beyond the ribs, so that the hollow is exposed, I would think this is a
gamble worth taking rather than forking out for a new made-to-measure
window.
JD
news:wJ29x.862360$wk1....@fx19.am4:
beyond the ribs, so that the hollow is exposed, I would think this is a
gamble worth taking rather than forking out for a new made-to-measure
window.
JD
stuart noble
May 27, 2015, 3:43:23 AM5/27/15
to
circular saw, mainly because it's easier to get the accurate square cut
you need by following a straightedge.
Dave Liquorice
May 27, 2015, 4:13:04 AM5/27/15
to
On Tue, 26 May 2015 19:14:36 +0100, ARW wrote:
>>> Unfortunately, shaving the ridges off the top and bottom isn't
quite
>>> going to be enough.
>>
>> Well then, it's a no no.
>
> I have seen it done at work.
By "professionals" no doubt.
>>> Unfortunately, shaving the ridges off the top and bottom isn't
quite
>>> going to be enough.
>>
>> Well then, it's a no no.
>
> I have seen it done at work.
How much more will be needed after the ridges have gone? If you don't
want to hack bits of the stone work and I don't blame you if you
don't. You appear to have two alternatives, lift the lintel or buy a
window of the correct size. You might get away with removing a face
completely but I wouldn't leave it like that glueing (aka solvent
weld) a U shaped bit of uPVC into the void would give back much of
the strength. Assuming any metal reinforcing allows that much to be
taken off. You're unlikely to find a U channel of the corect width
but this isn't sen so two L bits overlapped down the middle would do.
Lifting the lintel would mean removing a course above it, jacking up
on acro props, packing the gap under each end and replacing the
course above. Random stone would probably repack into the space,
bricks or other fixed size materials would give a problem and if the
mortar beds are visible look a bit odd as they halved or more in
thickness above the window.
One also wonders why this window is 1/2" to high, unless you live in
a "standard" modern box windows will be made to measure not off the
shelf.
>
> --
> Adam
>
--
Cheers
Dave.
Muddymike
May 27, 2015, 5:17:08 AM5/27/15
to
with.
Mike
JD
May 27, 2015, 6:27:11 AM5/27/15
to
"Dave Liquorice" <allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote in
news:nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk:
> How much more will be needed after the ridges have gone? If you don't
> want to hack bits of the stone work and I don't blame you if you
> don't. You appear to have two alternatives, lift the lintel or buy a
> window of the correct size. You might get away with removing a face
> completely but I wouldn't leave it like that glueing (aka solvent
> weld) a U shaped bit of uPVC into the void would give back much of
> the strength. Assuming any metal reinforcing allows that much to be
> taken off. You're unlikely to find a U channel of the corect width
> but this isn't sen so two L bits overlapped down the middle would do.
>
> Lifting the lintel would mean removing a course above it, jacking up
> on acro props, packing the gap under each end and replacing the
> course above. Random stone would probably repack into the space,
> bricks or other fixed size materials would give a problem and if the
> mortar beds are visible look a bit odd as they halved or more in
> thickness above the window.
>
> One also wonders why this window is 1/2" to high, unless you live in
> a "standard" modern box windows will be made to measure not off the
> shelf.
Some good suggestions there - thank you. Another option I wondered about
was to see if I can get a local UPVC window maker to reduce the size of my
window. Hopefully that would cost a lot less than the £200 it would cost to
have a suitable new window made from scratch.
It's an old Georgian stone house that has been rendered, so I am reluctant
to raise the heavy stone lintel. Lowering the heavy stone sill might be an
option. It would require less 'making good' afterwards.
I'll chew on it for a bit...
JD
news:nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk:
> How much more will be needed after the ridges have gone? If you don't
> want to hack bits of the stone work and I don't blame you if you
> don't. You appear to have two alternatives, lift the lintel or buy a
> window of the correct size. You might get away with removing a face
> completely but I wouldn't leave it like that glueing (aka solvent
> weld) a U shaped bit of uPVC into the void would give back much of
> the strength. Assuming any metal reinforcing allows that much to be
> taken off. You're unlikely to find a U channel of the corect width
> but this isn't sen so two L bits overlapped down the middle would do.
>
> Lifting the lintel would mean removing a course above it, jacking up
> on acro props, packing the gap under each end and replacing the
> course above. Random stone would probably repack into the space,
> bricks or other fixed size materials would give a problem and if the
> mortar beds are visible look a bit odd as they halved or more in
> thickness above the window.
>
> One also wonders why this window is 1/2" to high, unless you live in
> a "standard" modern box windows will be made to measure not off the
> shelf.
was to see if I can get a local UPVC window maker to reduce the size of my
window. Hopefully that would cost a lot less than the £200 it would cost to
have a suitable new window made from scratch.
It's an old Georgian stone house that has been rendered, so I am reluctant
to raise the heavy stone lintel. Lowering the heavy stone sill might be an
option. It would require less 'making good' afterwards.
I'll chew on it for a bit...
JD
michael adams
May 27, 2015, 7:27:11 AM5/27/15
to
news:XnsA4A774E2DD...@130.133.4.11...
If the part you're going to be sawing into might be box section...
Before doing anything, drill a hole, or holes and inject high density
polyeurethane expanding foam into the cavity. You could so position the
holes to be sure that the foam has penetrated right through the
cavity. Allow the foam to harden and then make the cut. You can then
coat any exposed polyurethane core with a single coat of polyester
resin with maybe a single layer of glass fibre surface tissue,
michael adams
...
Before doing anything, drill a hole, or holes and inject high density
polyeurethane expanding foam into the cavity. You could so position the
holes to be sure that the foam has penetrated right through the
cavity. Allow the foam to harden and then make the cut. You can then
coat any exposed polyurethane core with a single coat of polyester
resin with maybe a single layer of glass fibre surface tissue,
michael adams
...
JD
May 27, 2015, 8:03:03 AM5/27/15
to
"michael adams" <mjad...@ukonline.co.k> wrote in news:mk49k6$do3$1@dont-
email.me:
> If the part you're going to be sawing into might be box section...
>
> Before doing anything, drill a hole, or holes and inject high density
> polyeurethane expanding foam into the cavity. You could so position the
> holes to be sure that the foam has penetrated right through the
> cavity. Allow the foam to harden and then make the cut. You can then
> coat any exposed polyurethane core with a single coat of polyester
> resin with maybe a single layer of glass fibre surface tissue,
>
>
> michael adams
Hi, Thanks for the expanding foam tip. That sounds like a good idea.
JD
email.me:
> If the part you're going to be sawing into might be box section...
>
> Before doing anything, drill a hole, or holes and inject high density
> polyeurethane expanding foam into the cavity. You could so position the
> holes to be sure that the foam has penetrated right through the
> cavity. Allow the foam to harden and then make the cut. You can then
> coat any exposed polyurethane core with a single coat of polyester
> resin with maybe a single layer of glass fibre surface tissue,
>
>
> michael adams
JD
Andy Burns
May 27, 2015, 8:47:16 AM5/27/15
to
JD wrote:
> Another option I wondered about was to see if I can get a local UPVC
> window maker to reduce the size of my window.
The corner mitres are welded, by the time you cut it apart, avoiding any
> Another option I wondered about was to see if I can get a local UPVC
> window maker to reduce the size of my window.
metal reinforcing, remove 1/4" from each upright and re-welded it, it
would be 1/2" narrower as well as 1/2" shorter, and would need new
glazing unit as the size would have changed.
I suspect they'd be more inclined to roll their eyes and offer to make
you a new one ...
Andy Burns
May 27, 2015, 8:49:01 AM5/27/15
to
michael adams wrote:
> drill a hole, or holes and inject high density
> polyeurethane expanding foam into the cavity. You could so position the
> holes to be sure that the foam has penetrated right through the
> cavity. Allow the foam to harden and then make the cut
If planing the ribs off isn't enough, then this is the most sensible
> drill a hole, or holes and inject high density
> polyeurethane expanding foam into the cavity. You could so position the
> holes to be sure that the foam has penetrated right through the
> cavity. Allow the foam to harden and then make the cut
suggestion, short of replacing it ...
Brian-Gaff
May 27, 2015, 10:38:21 AM5/27/15
to
Yes the construction of these varies so much I seem to recall. You might be
able to avoid structure or maybe not.
The other problem is one of the vibration cracking the glass, unleess you
can remove it while working.
If you tried this on one I have in my kitchen, then only about 1 quarter
inch would remove the bottom of the moulding that holds metal blocks that
the screws go through to hold it all together.
Brian
--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
able to avoid structure or maybe not.
The other problem is one of the vibration cracking the glass, unleess you
can remove it while working.
If you tried this on one I have in my kitchen, then only about 1 quarter
inch would remove the bottom of the moulding that holds metal blocks that
the screws go through to hold it all together.
Brian
--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"harryagain" <harry...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:mk25si$73a$1...@dont-email.me...
JimK
May 27, 2015, 10:51:48 AM5/27/15
to
1/2 inch is 12.5mm, planing the ribs off top & bottom should easily get you that?
Jim K
Jim K
Phil L
May 27, 2015, 2:21:22 PM5/27/15
to
"JimK" <jk98...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:5e7e78be-9db8-49f1...@googlegroups.com...
> 1/2 inch is 12.5mm, planing the ribs off top & bottom should easily get
> you that?
>
> Jim K
>
Yes because the ribs at the top are about 7mm, and the ribs at the bottom
> you that?
>
> Jim K
>
are also about 7 mm, if you add these together, it's 14mm...how many mm were
in half an inch again?
JimK
May 27, 2015, 2:34:55 PM5/27/15
to
/how many mm were in half an inch again? /q
12.7mm if you wanted to be pedantic?
Jim K
12.7mm if you wanted to be pedantic?
Jim K
Phil L
May 27, 2015, 2:36:06 PM5/27/15
to
news:XnsA4A756AA0E...@130.133.4.11...
inch off, there's strengtheners inside the profile which will keep it in
shape.
I wouldn't take anything off it until you've got the old frame out though,
you might be surprised how much bigger the hole is when all the bits of
sealant / mastic / pointing etc have been removed from where the old frame
is/was
> Thanks for the tip, Phil. I may have to plane it down past the flat part
> beyond the ribs, so that the hollow is exposed, I would think this is a
> gamble worth taking rather than forking out for a new made-to-measure
> window.
It doesn't have any effect on the stability of the frame even if you take an
> beyond the ribs, so that the hollow is exposed, I would think this is a
> gamble worth taking rather than forking out for a new made-to-measure
> window.
inch off, there's strengtheners inside the profile which will keep it in
shape.
I wouldn't take anything off it until you've got the old frame out though,
you might be surprised how much bigger the hole is when all the bits of
sealant / mastic / pointing etc have been removed from where the old frame
is/was
Phil L
May 27, 2015, 2:40:47 PM5/27/15
to
news:114c40b8-6fa7-4724...@googlegroups.com...
gap
> /how many mm were in half an inch again? /q
>
> 12.7mm if you wanted to be pedantic?
>
Oh well, 14mm will be too much, maybe the wind will whistle though the huge
>
> 12.7mm if you wanted to be pedantic?
>
gap
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