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enlarging a hole in steel

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fred

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Oct 20, 2015, 6:18:08 AM10/20/15
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Occasionally I have to elongate by about 6mm an 8mm diam hole in 2-3mm thick mild steel. A round file would do it but none of my usual sites define the diameter of their round files. A stepped drill bit would just enlarge the hole which is not what I need. A power tool option would be nice. Any suggestions ?

The Natural Philosopher

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Oct 20, 2015, 6:32:01 AM10/20/15
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On 20/10/15 11:18, fred wrote:
> Occasionally I have to elongate by about 6mm an 8mm diam hole in 2-3mm thick mild steel. A round file would do it but none of my usual sites define the diameter of their round files. A stepped drill bit would just enlarge the hole which is not what I need. A power tool option would be nice. Any suggestions ?
>
hand tool - a punch?
Or a nibbler?


--
Global warming is the new Margaret Thatcher. There is no ill in the
world it's not directly responsible for.

T i m

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Oct 20, 2015, 8:39:26 AM10/20/15
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On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 03:18:06 -0700 (PDT), fred <tpmc...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Occasionally I have to elongate by about 6mm an 8mm diam hole in 2-3mm thick mild steel. A round file would do it but none of my usual sites define the diameter of their round files. A stepped drill bit would just enlarge the hole which is not what I need. A power tool option would be nice. Any suggestions ?

I have a small set of what look at a glance like twist drill bits but
whilst they have a conventional hss bit to start with, the rest of the
bit is more a power file / burr / arbour.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-drill-saw-rasp-set

The best use is for drilling a hole in thinner / softer material and
then being able to open the hole up or take it in a slightly different
direction.

Because it is rotating, if you were trying to extend the hole in just
one direction (to turn it into your slot for example), you have to
make sure you are applying the side load in the right direction (which
may not be the obvious angle).

You might be able to make this work if you had the bit in a pillar
drill and pushed the job between guides?

Cheers, T i m


fred

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Oct 20, 2015, 9:32:54 AM10/20/15
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Yes I wondered about those but the description says " Use in wood, plastics, aluminium etc. No mention of steel. Besides I'm slightly chary of Axminsters tin coated drills as in the past I didn't find them great.

But thanks for the suggestion any way.

Axminster no longer put an email address for technical queries on their site. When I used an old email address for this query I had it was ignored.

fred

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Oct 20, 2015, 9:34:47 AM10/20/15
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WHOOPS Sorry Axminster. The contact details are under Contact Details. Doh !

Dave Baker

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Oct 20, 2015, 10:02:18 AM10/20/15
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Easy as peas. You want a standard cut tooth pattern, 6mm shank, 8mm head
carbide
burr. Ideally used in professional cylinder head porting equipment at
up to 15,000 rpm like mine but they'll do quite nicely in an ordinary
drill albeit taking a bit longer.

http://www.master-abrasives.co.uk/products/overview/master-surface-finishing/rotary-burrs-and-cutting-tools/tungsten-carbide-burrs.aspx

Part number C081906 in the pdf would suit.
--
Dave Baker

F Murtz

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Oct 20, 2015, 10:57:27 AM10/20/15
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fred wrote:
> Occasionally I have to elongate by about 6mm an 8mm diam hole in 2-3mm thick mild steel. A round file would do it but none of my usual sites define the diameter of their round files. A stepped drill bit would just enlarge the hole which is not what I need. A power tool option would be nice. Any suggestions ?
>
Die grinder,(like a potent dremmel)with a carbide cutter (burr)

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/carbide-burr

Muddymike

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Oct 20, 2015, 10:59:12 AM10/20/15
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I was thinking of suggesting similar. I have a set of straight versions that
are very good at creating odd shaped holes in steel.

This is one of them

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49024805/Burr.jpg

Mike

Chris J Dixon

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Oct 20, 2015, 11:42:48 AM10/20/15
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Isn't there some risk that the bearings in an ordinary drill
might not be up to taking the side loading if this was done too
often?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
ch...@cdixon.me.uk

Plant amazing Acers.

Dave Plowman (News)

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Oct 20, 2015, 11:59:17 AM10/20/15
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In article <56265654$0$28023$b1db1813$2411...@news.astraweb.com>,
My feeling is that with relatively thin steel I'd file it out by hand
before you've found the chuck key for a power tool. And hand held cutters
in thin steel have a habit of wandering all over the place.

But I am assuming you have a decent vice that it can be clamped in.

--
*Why do overlook and oversee mean opposite things? *

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Robin

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Oct 20, 2015, 2:27:20 PM10/20/15
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Chris J Dixon wrote:
> Isn't there some risk that the bearings in an ordinary drill
> might not be up to taking the side loading if this was done too
> often?
>

OTOH an angle grinder with an 8mm tungsten carbide mortar rake....

--
Robin
reply to address is (meant to be) valid


fred

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Oct 21, 2015, 7:50:56 AM10/21/15
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Axminster finally came back and recommended a particular round file which I will have a go with.
No vice. This is to resolve a problem with two components not aligning correctly when being assembled at the customers premises. Normally its only 2-3mm, or less, astray, but recently it was more like 8mm. Hard to force that much into alignment with a big boot.

newshound

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Oct 21, 2015, 1:25:44 PM10/21/15
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I'd think manual filing with a coarse round file might be faster, if you
only have normal drill speeds.

In my experience, one problem with trying to make slots using "drills
with side-cutting teeth" is cutting in the direction you want to go,
because the rotating tool deflects you sideways. Not an issue with
Dave's high speed cutters for two reasons, first the power tool is
designed to be easy to hold and stabilise, second at very high speed you
need little applied force, so the sideways force is small compared to
the mass of the tool and they are therefore easier to keep "on track".
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