Preparation of Plasterboard Ceiling before Skimming
Andy Hide
ceiling and putting up a new plasterboard one. The ceiling will be
skimmed by a professional plastered when finished. The walls will also
be skimmed at the same time.
A couple of questions:
1) The boards were only tapered on the long edge. I intend to tape
these edges and then fill them with jointing compound. Do I use this
same method for filling the butted joins on the short edges ? I guess
these joins will be slightly raised when filled but will that matter
if the whole ceiling is going to be skimmed ?
2) What is the best way of dealing with the gap between the top of the
wall and the boarded ceiling ? I have tried to fit the boards as close
to the wall as possible but there are some small gaps in places?
3) After filling should the entire ceiling be coated with some sort of
plaster sealant before skimming ?
Any help is appreciated.
Andy.
stuart noble
Andy Hide wrote in message
<8f88db3.02081...@posting.google.com>...
>Just spent the weekend taking down old lathe and plaster kitchen
>ceiling and putting up a new plasterboard one. The ceiling will be
>skimmed by a professional plastered when finished. The walls will also
>be skimmed at the same time.
>these edges and then fill them with jointing compound. Do I use this
>same method for filling the butted joins on the short edges ? I guess
>these joins will be slightly raised when filled but will that matter
>if the whole ceiling is going to be skimmed ?
have to sand it or skim up to that level all over. If the end edges are
fairly flush, I wouldn't do anything. If a straightedge rocks on the joints
you may need to shave some of the board off to get them flat. Personally,
I'd leave it to the plasterer.
>
>2) What is the best way of dealing with the gap between the top of the
>wall and the boarded ceiling ? I have tried to fit the boards as close
>to the wall as possible but there are some small gaps in places?
>
>3) After filling should the entire ceiling be coated with some sort of
>plaster sealant before skimming ?
interfere, you'll get no thanks and they'll probably blame you because the
stuff won't "take".
Inge Jones
news:8f88db3.02081...@posting.google.com:
> 1) The boards were only tapered on the long edge. I intend to tape
> these edges and then fill them with jointing compound. Do I use this
> same method for filling the butted joins on the short edges ? I guess
> these joins will be slightly raised when filled but will that matter
> if the whole ceiling is going to be skimmed ?
My last plasterers used some self-adhesive scrim tape over all the
joins, but didn't bother with any filler or compound - just skimmed
straight over that. I wouldn't leave them untaped whoever does the
taping, as you inevitably get cracks over the joins otherwise.
> 2) What is the best way of dealing with the gap between the top of the
> wall and the boarded ceiling ? I have tried to fit the boards as close
> to the wall as possible but there are some small gaps in places?
General-purpose Polyfilla is great for all this sort of stuff, but as
Stuart says, ensure that it finishes either dead level or just short of
the surface. It is worth bothering IMHO, as it will significantly
reduce sound transmission between floors.
Meoww
Andy,
Just leave it to the plasterer. He can do things you wouldn't even
dream were possible. He may want to use plaster and scrim over the
joints, or self adhesive tape. Whatever, unless it's the size of the
millenium dome, it'll only take him ten minutes. As for the gaps, he
may nail on strips of plaster board and skim onto them, slap in some
browning and skim over that or he may just use scrim and finish,
depending on size (it always matters). Stop worrying and just watch in
awe, plastering is one the arts!
P.S. What on earth made you take the old ceiling down. Over-boarding
is a perfect solution in most cases :-))
Regards
Meeow
Andy Hide
I can honestly say that taking the old ceiling down is the messiest
job I have ever undertaken and in hindsight I don't think I would do
it again. It did make putting the new boards up easy though as I could
rest the edges of the boards on top of the plaster on the wall. It
also made nailing to the joists easy once all the laths were removed.
The black dust gets everywhere and I have had to wash the walls,
paintwork, carpets etc. Even then it has taken a couple of washes to
remove the dirt completely.
Anyone know what this black dust is ? Does it go back to when the
chinmeys would have been in use i.e is it soot ? Is it harmful to
breath in ? The dust is extrememly fine.
Tim Mitchell
<andy...@totalise.co.uk> writes
>I can honestly say that taking the old ceiling down is the messiest
>job I have ever undertaken and in hindsight I don't think I would do
>it again. It did make putting the new boards up easy though as I could
>rest the edges of the boards on top of the plaster on the wall. It
>also made nailing to the joists easy once all the laths were removed.
>
>The black dust gets everywhere and I have had to wash the walls,
>paintwork, carpets etc. Even then it has taken a couple of washes to
>remove the dirt completely.
>
>Anyone know what this black dust is ? Does it go back to when the
>chinmeys would have been in use i.e is it soot ? Is it harmful to
>breath in ? The dust is extrememly fine.
I think it is soot, not necessarily your own soot though. There used to
be a lot of it floating about. One of my friends has just had their 30's
house roof retiled and there was several centimetres depth of soot in
the loft.
--
Tim Mitchell