Re-opening old fireplace

mike

unread,

Feb 3, 2011, 2:22:58 PM2/3/11

to

I've just removed a hideous gas fire and want to open up the old fire
place for a woodbuner. Pic here:

http://tinypic.com/r/2drxwl0/7

Is there any likelihood of finding asbestos in the old fire back or
cement used? (I think they date from the 1980s.)

Is it best to remove the fireback first and then start on the bricks?

Any gotchas I need to watch out for?

Thanks for any advice.

Tim Lamb

unread,

Feb 3, 2011, 2:55:46 PM2/3/11

to

In message
<210fe516-8bd2-47d7...@t19g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,
mike <mike...@yahoo.com> writes

>I've just removed a hideous gas fire and want to open up the old fire
>place for a woodbuner. Pic here:
>
>http://tinypic.com/r/2drxwl0/7
>
>Is there any likelihood of finding asbestos in the old fire back or
>cement used? (I think they date from the 1980s.)

Can't see why there would be. Anyway you'll be wearing a mask:-)

>
>Is it best to remove the fireback first and then start on the bricks?

I would think so. There may be a space behind the bricks to get busy
with a club hammer and bolster.

>
>Any gotchas I need to watch out for?

There ought to be a piece of iron supporting that shallow arch.

I've got some pics of ours somewhere.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Watts

unread,

Feb 3, 2011, 5:04:04 PM2/3/11

to

mike (mike...@yahoo.com) wibbled on Thursday 03 February 2011 19:22:

Fireback is safe to remove (structurely) - but if you start removing bricks,
you need to be aware if you are removing load bearing support. Chimney
stacks are *very* heavy.

--
Tim Watts

Tim Watts

unread,

Feb 3, 2011, 5:08:37 PM2/3/11

to

mike (mike...@yahoo.com) wibbled on Thursday 03 February 2011 19:22:

> I've just removed a hideous gas fire and want to open up the old fire

Hang on - just seen your photo - are those red bricks retrofitted into a
much larger opening bordered by those brown bricks?

I don't see an obvious problem with opening back to the brown bricks. That
arch is something to watch out for - it looks like it might have been
designed to be load bearing but it looks a bit on the slime side for such a
wide opening.

I'd consider some iron or a concrete lintle there - but that's only going on
a photo...

--
Tim Watts

cynic

unread,

Feb 3, 2011, 5:53:01 PM2/3/11

to

You will find a large quantity of material to remove from behind the
red brick wall. Dont disturb the older brick arch. Given that you had
to ask your question do you feel competent to cast a sealing slab to
run the woodburner flue pipe up through? DIY is good but some tasks
need someone who knows the job.

Tim Watts

unread,

Feb 3, 2011, 7:24:07 PM2/3/11

to

cynic (icel...@talktalk.net) wibbled on Thursday 03 February 2011 22:53:

Does he need a slab? Mine (albeit smaller) was closed off by the HETAS
fitter with a sheet of metal about 6" up into the chimney and sprayed black.

--
Tim Watts

Tim Lamb

unread,

Feb 4, 2011, 3:19:17 AM2/4/11

to

In message <7itr18-...@squidward.dionic.net>, Tim Watts
<t...@dionic.net> writes

Likewise.

Building control was happy with a sheet metal closer secured to an angle
iron frame and sealed with fire cement grout.

I suppose an insulated twin wall chimney liner was an added reassurance.

regards
>

--
Tim Lamb

stuart noble

unread,

Feb 4, 2011, 3:38:58 AM2/4/11

to

There's probably a metal arch under the brown bricks, usually about
5-10mm thick I think. I'd chip away at that mortar line and make sure it
extends into the brown bricks on either side.

harry

unread,

Feb 4, 2011, 6:05:12 AM2/4/11

to

On Feb 3, 7:22 pm, mike <miken...@yahoo.com> wrote:

It is standard fireplace construction. The red bricks and fireplace
can be removed but not the arch or the two pillars on the left and
right. You will be left with a big hole. The chimney really needs a
stainless stell liner fitted (there are other technologies too.) The
manufacturers of these things have closure plates for the top and
bottom of the chimney. However fitting them is a bit of a desperate
job, they are fed down the chimney from the top, the chimney pot has
to be removed. They are not cheap either.
You could do without a liner but this leads to cold chimneys and tar
formation with the possibilty of a chimney fire. Burning wood is not
like burning coal.

harry

unread,

Feb 4, 2011, 6:11:04 AM2/4/11

to

On Feb 3, 7:22 pm, mike <miken...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Re. the asbestos, there may well be some it gas fire you removed,
there's not likely to be any in the structure unless any rubbish has
been chucked in there behind the fireplace.

newshound

unread,

Feb 4, 2011, 7:36:58 AM2/4/11

to

>>> You will find a large quantity of material to remove from behind the
>>> red brick wall. Dont disturb the older brick arch. Given that you had
>>> to ask your question do you feel competent to cast a sealing slab to
>>> run the woodburner flue pipe up through? DIY is good but some tasks
>>> need someone who knows the job.
>>
>>Does he need a slab? Mine (albeit smaller) was closed off by the HETAS
>>fitter with a sheet of metal about 6" up into the chimney and sprayed
>>black.
>
> Likewise.
>
> Building control was happy with a sheet metal closer secured to an angle
> iron frame and sealed with fire cement grout.
>
> I suppose an insulated twin wall chimney liner was an added reassurance.
>
> regards
>>
>
> --
> Tim Lamb

I have masterboard and no liner; when it's going, it draws pretty well (3
storeys). But I have checked with a CO monitor

Jim K

unread,

Feb 4, 2011, 7:53:31 AM2/4/11

to

On Feb 3, 10:53 pm, cynic <icelan...@talktalk.net> wrote:

>Given that you had
> to ask your question do you feel competent to cast a sealing slab to
> run the woodburner flue pipe up through?

WTF?? ;>)))))

>DIY is good but some tasks
> need someone who knows the job.

or can read up on what they are waffling about?

Jim K

unread,

Feb 4, 2011, 7:55:05 AM2/4/11

to

fingers crossed then

Jim K

Andrew Gabriel

unread,

Feb 6, 2011, 5:06:55 AM2/6/11

to

In article <b8cxtrHC...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk>,

Tim Lamb <t...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> writes:
> There ought to be a piece of iron supporting that shallow arch.

Yes.
It is a very shallow arch, and the supporting walls at either
side are too insubstantial to support much lateral arch force.
I would carefully check for any arch slippage before removing
the brickwork underneath. I might even repoint the arch and
brickwork immediately above it first if the mortar isn't in
good condition.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Tim Lamb

unread,

Feb 6, 2011, 12:22:42 PM2/6/11

to

In message <iilrru$n48$2...@news.eternal-september.org>, Andrew Gabriel
<and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> writes

>In article <b8cxtrHC...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk>,
> Tim Lamb <t...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> writes:
>> There ought to be a piece of iron supporting that shallow arch.
>
>Yes.
>It is a very shallow arch, and the supporting walls at either
>side are too insubstantial to support much lateral arch force.
>I would carefully check for any arch slippage before removing
>the brickwork underneath. I might even repoint the arch and
>brickwork immediately above it first if the mortar isn't in
>good condition.

I put some photos of one of mine on photobucket. Now if I can only
remember the password......

http://s828.photobucket.com/albums/zz205/TimLamb/

The brickwork is corbelled in to form a throat. No working flash on this
camera so not easily seen. Chipping off old mortar/render is not kind to
soft red brick. Elsewhere I have retained existing render but stopped it
short of the brick face to give a cleaner edge. Better photo soon as the
other camera is heading home from Lanzarote:-)

My first attempts at matching lime mortar were not good. You need white
cement and silver sand.

regards
>

--
Tim Lamb