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Sunvic SD2701 actuator
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The Medway Handyman
Mar 17, 2013, 12:25:04 PM3/17/13
to
Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
hot enough at times.
Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
"If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
doesn�t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
"If it doesn�t, then it�s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the valve
spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require pliers
or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
clicks.
Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
its the valve.
I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
hot enough at times.
Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
"If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
doesn�t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
"If it doesn�t, then it�s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the valve
spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require pliers
or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
clicks.
Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
its the valve.
I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
A.Lee
Mar 17, 2013, 12:31:30 PM3/17/13
to
The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
...
> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> clicks.
>
> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> clicks.
>
> its the valve.
Yes, it sounds like the splines/gears are worn out. Sunvic are branded
by other makes too, do a search and you should get one for �30.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
harry
Mar 17, 2013, 12:34:21 PM3/17/13
to
On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:
hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
don't need to know it's position.
They only move slowly BTW.
Get someone else to adjust the thermostat if you can't see it from the
actuator position.
wrote:
> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>
> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
> hot enough at times.
>
> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>
> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>
> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
> doesn’t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
>
> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
> hot enough at times.
>
> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>
> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>
> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
> motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
>
> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>
> "If it doesn’t, then it’s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the valve
>
> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>
> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require pliers
> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
>
> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> clicks.
>
> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out £75 if
> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
>
> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> clicks.
>
> its the valve.
>
> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>
> --
> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
>
> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>
> --
> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
don't need to know it's position.
They only move slowly BTW.
Get someone else to adjust the thermostat if you can't see it from the
actuator position.
The Medway Handyman
Mar 17, 2013, 12:40:30 PM3/17/13
to
On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
> wrote:
>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>
>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
>> hot enough at times.
>>
>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>
>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>
>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>> doesn�t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
> wrote:
>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>
>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
>> hot enough at times.
>>
>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>
>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>
>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>> motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
>>
>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>
>> "If it doesn�t, then it�s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the valve
>>
>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>
>> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require pliers
>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
>>
>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>> clicks.
>>
>> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
>>
>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>> clicks.
>>
>> its the valve.
>>
>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>
>> --
>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
> don't need to know it's position.
> They only move slowly BTW.
It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
>>
>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>
>> --
>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
> don't need to know it's position.
> They only move slowly BTW.
>
> Get someone else to adjust the thermostat if you can't see it from the
> actuator position.
>
>
>
>
> Get someone else to adjust the thermostat if you can't see it from the
> actuator position.
>
>
>
>
The Medway Handyman
Mar 17, 2013, 12:49:57 PM3/17/13
to
A.Lee
Mar 17, 2013, 12:59:36 PM3/17/13
to
The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> On 17/03/2013 16:31, A.Lee wrote:
> > The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> >> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
> > ...
> >> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
> >> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> >> clicks.
> >>
> >> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
> >> its the valve.
> >
> > Yes, it sounds like the splines/gears are worn out. Sunvic are branded
> > by other makes too, do a search and you should get one for �30.
> >
> Got anymore detail on that Alan? �30 sounds much better :-)
Ebay turn up the cheapest mostly. Bought a Honeywell actuator for �30
> On 17/03/2013 16:31, A.Lee wrote:
> > The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> >> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
> > ...
> >> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
> >> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> >> clicks.
> >>
> >> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
> >> its the valve.
> >
> > Yes, it sounds like the splines/gears are worn out. Sunvic are branded
> > by other makes too, do a search and you should get one for �30.
> >
> Got anymore detail on that Alan? �30 sounds much better :-)
last week, also got a complete 3 port Drayton valve for �40 a couple of
weeks ago.
It may be Danfoss that are the same as Sunvic. Check the pics to see if
they are the same.
Here's one here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281078752943
Thats the first one in an ebay search, there may be others.
Harry Bloomfield
Mar 17, 2013, 3:24:00 PM3/17/13
to
After serious thinking The Medway Handyman wrote :
microswitches need to be triggered, to show the correct positions for
the boiler to fire, so it seems you might have a faulty microswitch
indicating a wrong position if the boiler is heating the water instead
of the rads. By a new actuator, then check out/repair your original as
a spare. You can get the microswitches from Maplins for a pound.
Motors, though yours seems to be OK, can be had for ￜ15.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
That sounds about right, the click is the microswitch. The
microswitches need to be triggered, to show the correct positions for
the boiler to fire, so it seems you might have a faulty microswitch
indicating a wrong position if the boiler is heating the water instead
of the rads. By a new actuator, then check out/repair your original as
a spare. You can get the microswitches from Maplins for a pound.
Motors, though yours seems to be OK, can be had for ￜ15.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
John Rumm
Mar 17, 2013, 4:03:03 PM3/17/13
to
On 17/03/2013 16:40, The Medway Handyman wrote:
> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
>> wrote:
>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>>
>>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
>>> hot enough at times.
>>>
>>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>>
>>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>>
>>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>>> doesn’t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
>> wrote:
>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>>
>>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
>>> hot enough at times.
>>>
>>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>>
>>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>>
>>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>>> motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
>>>
>>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>>
>>> "If it doesn’t, then it’s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the valve
>>>
>>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>>
>>> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require pliers
>>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to
>>> turn it".
>>>
>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>>> clicks.
>>>
>>> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out £75 if
>>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to
>>> turn it".
>>>
>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>>> clicks.
>>>
>>> its the valve.
>>>
>>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>
>> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
>> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
>> don't need to know it's position.
>> They only move slowly BTW.
>
> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
If you mean click repeatedly - like a gear slipping, then no. If you
>>>
>>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>
>> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
>> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
>> don't need to know it's position.
>> They only move slowly BTW.
>
> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
mean there is a single click like a microswitch being activated, then yes.
Armed with a multimeter you should be able to follow the logic through
using :
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Central_Heating_Controls_and_Zoning#CH_and_DHW_zones:_Y-plan
and
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
The Medway Handyman
Mar 17, 2013, 4:18:46 PM3/17/13
to
On 17/03/2013 20:03, John Rumm wrote:
> On 17/03/2013 16:40, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>>> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>>>
>>>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads
>>>> not
>>>> hot enough at times.
>>>>
>>>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>>>
>>>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>>>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>>>
>>>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>>>> doesn�t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
> On 17/03/2013 16:40, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>>> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>>>
>>>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads
>>>> not
>>>> hot enough at times.
>>>>
>>>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>>>
>>>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>>>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>>>
>>>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>>>> motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
>>>>
>>>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>>>
>>>> "If it doesn�t, then it�s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the
>>>>
>>>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>>>
>>>> valve
>>>> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require
>>>> pliers
>>>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to
>>>> turn it".
>>>>
>>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>>>> clicks.
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
>>>> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require
>>>> pliers
>>>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to
>>>> turn it".
>>>>
>>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>>>> clicks.
>>>>
>>>> its the valve.
>>>>
>>>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>>
>>> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
>>> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
>>> don't need to know it's position.
>>> They only move slowly BTW.
>>
>> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
>
> If you mean click repeatedly - like a gear slipping, then no. If you
> mean there is a single click like a microswitch being activated, then yes.
It's repeated clicking.
>>>>
>>>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>>
>>> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
>>> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
>>> don't need to know it's position.
>>> They only move slowly BTW.
>>
>> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
>
> If you mean click repeatedly - like a gear slipping, then no. If you
> mean there is a single click like a microswitch being activated, then yes.
The spindle is 'D' shaped. The actuator turns it 180 in one direction,
but only 90 in the other when the clicking starts.
>
> Armed with a multimeter you should be able to follow the logic through
> using :
>
> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Central_Heating_Controls_and_Zoning#CH_and_DHW_zones:_Y-plan
>
>
> and
>
> http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm
Now I know what I'm doing tomorrow night :-)
> Armed with a multimeter you should be able to follow the logic through
> using :
>
> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Central_Heating_Controls_and_Zoning#CH_and_DHW_zones:_Y-plan
>
>
> and
>
> http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm
The Medway Handyman
Mar 17, 2013, 4:21:28 PM3/17/13
to
On 17/03/2013 16:59, A.Lee wrote:
> The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> On 17/03/2013 16:31, A.Lee wrote:
>>> The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>> ...
>>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>>>> clicks.
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
>>>> its the valve.
>>>
>>> Yes, it sounds like the splines/gears are worn out. Sunvic are branded
>>> by other makes too, do a search and you should get one for �30.
>>>
>> Got anymore detail on that Alan? �30 sounds much better :-)
>
> Ebay turn up the cheapest mostly. Bought a Honeywell actuator for �30
> last week, also got a complete 3 port Drayton valve for �40 a couple of
> weeks ago.
> It may be Danfoss that are the same as Sunvic. Check the pics to see if
> they are the same.
> Here's one here:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281078752943
>
> Thats the first one in an ebay search, there may be others.
>
It look identical, cheers.
> The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> On 17/03/2013 16:31, A.Lee wrote:
>>> The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>> ...
>>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
>>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
>>>> clicks.
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out �75 if
>>>> its the valve.
>>>
>>> Yes, it sounds like the splines/gears are worn out. Sunvic are branded
>>> by other makes too, do a search and you should get one for �30.
>>>
>> Got anymore detail on that Alan? �30 sounds much better :-)
>
> Ebay turn up the cheapest mostly. Bought a Honeywell actuator for �30
> last week, also got a complete 3 port Drayton valve for �40 a couple of
> weeks ago.
> It may be Danfoss that are the same as Sunvic. Check the pics to see if
> they are the same.
> Here's one here:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281078752943
>
> Thats the first one in an ebay search, there may be others.
>
John Rumm
Mar 17, 2013, 6:14:29 PM3/17/13
to
On 17/03/2013 20:18, The Medway Handyman wrote:
> On 17/03/2013 20:03, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 17/03/2013 16:40, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>>> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>>>> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>>>>
>>>>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads
>>>>> not
>>>>> hot enough at times.
>>>>>
>>>>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>>>>
>>>>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>>>>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>>>>
>>>>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>>>>> doesn’t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
> On 17/03/2013 20:03, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 17/03/2013 16:40, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>>> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>>>> On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>>>>>
>>>>> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads
>>>>> not
>>>>> hot enough at times.
>>>>>
>>>>> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>>>>>
>>>>> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
>>>>> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>>>>>
>>>>> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
>>>>> motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
>>>>>
>>>>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>>>>
>>>>> "If it doesn’t, then it’s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the
>>>>>
>>>>> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>>>>>
>>>>> valve
>>>>> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require
>>>>> pliers
>>>>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to
>>>>> turn it".
>>>>>
>>>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However,
>>>>> when
>>>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half
>>>>> way &
>>>>> clicks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out
>>>>> £75 if
>>>>> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require
>>>>> pliers
>>>>> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to
>>>>> turn it".
>>>>>
>>>>> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However,
>>>>> when
>>>>> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half
>>>>> way &
>>>>> clicks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out
>>>>> its the valve.
>>>>>
>>>>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>>>
>>>> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
>>>> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
>>>> don't need to know it's position.
>>>> They only move slowly BTW.
>>>
>>> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
>>
>> If you mean click repeatedly - like a gear slipping, then no. If you
>> mean there is a single click like a microswitch being activated, then
>> yes.
>
>
>
> It's repeated clicking.
Sounds like a knackered gearbox then...
>>>>>
>>>>> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>>>
>>>> You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
>>>> hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
>>>> don't need to know it's position.
>>>> They only move slowly BTW.
>>>
>>> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
>>
>> If you mean click repeatedly - like a gear slipping, then no. If you
>> mean there is a single click like a microswitch being activated, then
>> yes.
>
>
>
> It's repeated clicking.
> The spindle is 'D' shaped. The actuator turns it 180 in one direction,
> but only 90 in the other when the clicking starts.
deg or so...
>> Armed with a multimeter you should be able to follow the logic through
>> using :
>>
>> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Central_Heating_Controls_and_Zoning#CH_and_DHW_zones:_Y-plan
>>
>>
>>
>> and
>>
>> http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm
>
> Now I know what I'm doing tomorrow night :-)
reaching full travel.
harry
Mar 18, 2013, 2:42:50 AM3/18/13
to
On Mar 17, 4:40 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:
> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
> > wrote:
> >> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>
> >> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
> >> hot enough at times.
>
> >> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>
> >> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
> >> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>
> >> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
> >> doesn’t operate as expected, remove it from the valve and see if it
> On 17/03/2013 16:34, harry wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Mar 17, 4:25 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
> > wrote:
> >> Problems with the CH & HW at Handyman Towers.
>
> >> Water is getting far too hot,although tank stat is turned down, rads not
> >> hot enough at times.
>
> >> Seems to be the 3 port valve (1 in, 1 to tank, 1 to rads)
>
> >> Having read the fault finding guide on the interweb, I removed the
> >> actuator and turned the spindle by hand. The destructions state;
>
> >> "If power is present on the appropriate wires and the actuator still
> >> motors to the correct positions when off the valve".
>
> >> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>
> >> "If it doesn’t, then it’s a faulty actuator. If it does, check the valve
>
> >> But it doesn't say what the 'correct positions' are.
>
> >> spindle is free to rotate using your fingers only. If you require pliers
> >> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
>
> >> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
> >> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> >> clicks.
>
> >> Sounds like a duff actuator to me, but I don't want to shell out £75 if
> >> or grips to move the spindle, then the actuator will be unable to turn it".
>
> >> You can turn the spindle by hand, albeit a little stiff. However, when
> >> the actuator moves in the direction of the CH port, it stops half way &
> >> clicks.
>
> >> its the valve.
>
> >> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>
> >> --
> >> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
> > You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
> > hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
> > don't need to know it's position.
> > They only move slowly BTW.
>
> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
>
>
>
> > Get someone else to adjust the thermostat if you can't see it from the
> > actuator position.
>
> --
> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
There may be a fault in the gearbox. (Teeth stripped?)
>
> >> I assume changing the vale is a drain down job?
>
> >> --
> >> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
> > You should be able to get the actuator motor to move by adjusting the
> > hot water thermostat. Just the fact that is moves is enough you
> > don't need to know it's position.
> > They only move slowly BTW.
>
> It only moves halfway then clicks. Is that right?
>
>
>
> > Get someone else to adjust the thermostat if you can't see it from the
> > actuator position.
>
> --
> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
SAUSAGE
Dec 23, 2022, 6:15:07 PM12/23/22
to
When they only go so far but keep clicking it is always a duff microswitch. Just replaceboth of them while you have the thing open. It is nothing to do with stripped teeth or the gear box. The contacts in the micro switches need to be switching off and on the boiler and the pump which are highly inductive. In a nut shell the contacts are going to spark and get a hammering. One solution for a longer life is to fit supression capacitors across the contacts, problem is fitting them in.
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/sunvic-sd2701-actuator-881788-.htm
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/sunvic-sd2701-actuator-881788-.htm
chop
Dec 23, 2022, 6:52:55 PM12/23/22
to
On Sat, 24 Dec 2022 10:15:03 +1100, SAUSAGE
<8c3fd8c6885b3cbd...@example.com> wrote:
> When they only go so far but keep clicking it is always a duff
> microswitch. Just replaceboth of them while you have the thing open. It
> is nothing to do with stripped teeth or the gear box. The contacts in
> the micro switches need to be switching off and on the boiler and the
> pump which are highly inductive. In a nut shell the contacts are going
> to spark and get a hammering. One solution for a longer life is to fit
> supression capacitors across the contacts, problem is fitting them in.
You are only 9 years late, you silly sausage.
<8c3fd8c6885b3cbd...@example.com> wrote:
> When they only go so far but keep clicking it is always a duff
> microswitch. Just replaceboth of them while you have the thing open. It
> is nothing to do with stripped teeth or the gear box. The contacts in
> the micro switches need to be switching off and on the boiler and the
> pump which are highly inductive. In a nut shell the contacts are going
> to spark and get a hammering. One solution for a longer life is to fit
> supression capacitors across the contacts, problem is fitting them in.
John J
Dec 24, 2022, 2:59:02 AM12/24/22
to
Peeler
Dec 24, 2022, 3:29:29 AM12/24/22
to
On Sat, 24 Dec 2022 10:52:46 +1100, chop, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
--
Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID: <g4t0jt...@mid.individual.net>
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
--
Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID: <g4t0jt...@mid.individual.net>
Brian Gaff
Dec 24, 2022, 7:29:21 AM12/24/22
to
Yes I thought that, but it also begs the question as to why suppression is
not fitted as standard in the first place.
Brian
--
--:
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"chop" <cho...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:op.1xnlx...@pvr2.lan...
not fitted as standard in the first place.
Brian
--
--:
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"chop" <cho...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:op.1xnlx...@pvr2.lan...
Animal
Dec 24, 2022, 11:39:57 AM12/24/22
to
Harry Bloomfield Esq
Dec 25, 2022, 4:36:25 PM12/25/22
to
On 24/12/2022 12:29, Brian Gaff wrote:
> Yes I thought that, but it also begs the question as to why suppression is
> not fitted as standard in the first place.
Because it's not needed, they don't 'spark'. The cam hits the switch,
> Yes I thought that, but it also begs the question as to why suppression is
> not fitted as standard in the first place.
operates the contacts, which are then designed to simply stall the motor
at that position.
I think the poster assumed the micro-switch caused the motor to
continually switch on and off, winding and unwinding on the spring,
constantly switching the microswitch.
SAUSAGE
Dec 26, 2022, 4:31:22 PM12/26/22
to
They are not fitted because there is no room in the enclosure to do that, plus Sunvic don't care what happens after the six month warranty runs out. Harry, they do spark. The CH or HW call signal passes through them to actually fire the boiler and pump up. The mid position is held by feeding the motor with half wave mains through the diode and resistor, and a reduced demagitising signal on the other half of the mains with another resistor. I have never indicated that the microswithes are designed to switch the motor off and on in the mid position. I was trying to point our that when switch number 2 fails, the motor gets no half wave mains from the diode. It then spring returns back until switch number 1 kicks in again and starts heading back to mid position, and so forth. This is when people get the classic clicking situation coming from the cam constantly operating switch number 1 . The last phone call I had with Sunvic indicated that their engineers no longer know what the diode and resistors are actually for which says everything about them. The last call I had with 'Synchron' indicated that the motors were never designed for this purpose and accept no responsibility. My final solution : Use the microswitches to operate 12 volt relays which then do all the switching externally, with higher current rated contacts (again with capacitors fitted). Ditch the mid position altogether and wire it so that the central heating position can only happen if the hot water tank is up to temperature. It still does not get the motor out of the situation where it is still running all the time in the CH position with no where to go, but does solve all the problems with the underated micro switches for inductive loads and the motor getting magnetically locked in the mid position (another fault which happens over time). If you are sticking with the original design, then change the 270K resistor to 220k 1W and connect it to the motor from a constant live feed. That way it is constantly being demagnetised even if the boiler is off.
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