Proposal is to lead a pipe out of roofspace where boiler will be located and
into roof gutter. Alternative is to pipe it into downpipe - but less
attractive cosmetically.
No problem at all. The CORGI guy who installed our combi in the loft did
this and the CORGI/Gas Safe guys who've done the annual service have no
problem with it either.
Issue is likely to be it freezing during a cold spell, particularly
the water in the gutter (which being horizontally exposed to clear
sky in winter, is very likely to freeze), and is also going to get
blocked with snow when you've got 6" on your roof and gutters.
I recall someone mentioning on here years ago when a 4' icicle
broke free from their condensate drain, and came smashing through
the conservatory roof.
Are their not any wash basins upstairs (or other things with
runaways) upstairs with internal drains which you could couple to
from the loft?
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
I have to plumb in a condensate drain and PRV piping in a couple of
weeks' time for my new boiler, which I am putting in the loft.
I was planning to plumb the condensate drain straight into a uPVC soil
stack via a new boss. For the PRV, I was going to do the classic 15mm
pipe through the wall turned back in on itself.
Both of these methods my involve taking a short bit of piping down
through the bathroom ceiling (from the loft) then outside through the
house wall. I assume there is no problem with having the PRV pipe vent
so high up, as long as there are no doorways below?
No problem with this is there?
Otherwise, surely loads of tower blocks all with PRVs high up on the
wall would be against regs. Running a 15mm all the way down the house
would be ugly enough for me to rethink siting the boiler in the loft!
Luke
Good advice Andrew and certainly something for the OP to think about.
However, all I can say is that we've just had the coldest and most prolonged
snow/ice christmas/new year for about 30 years and we suffered no such
problems. Plenty snow and ice on the roof but the condensate drained away as
it should.
> I have to plumb in a condensate drain and PRV piping in a couple of
> weeks' time for my new boiler, which I am putting in the loft.
>
> I was planning to plumb the condensate drain straight into a uPVC soil
> stack via a new boss. For the PRV, I was going to do the classic 15mm
> pipe through the wall turned back in on itself.
>
> Both of these methods my involve taking a short bit of piping down
> through the bathroom ceiling (from the loft) then outside through the
> house wall. I assume there is no problem with having the PRV pipe vent
> so high up, as long as there are no doorways below?
Again, like my reply to the OP, no problem with the PRV through the wall and
turned back on itself, or with the condensate drain through the roof and
into the gutter.
Lots of people had condensing boilers fail last winter,
for the reason of condensate drains freezing. In many
cases, this was due to installers not following the
instructions (e.g. using 22mm pipework outside), but in
some cases it happened in spite of following instructions,
and the industry has been reviewing the rules for condensate
drains as a consequence of this.
I even removed an iceplug from a fall pipe that had nearly frozen solid
(44mm?).
One of my jobs this summer is to move a neighbours condensate from the
gutter, re-run it internally and plumb it into the bath waste. It was not
much fun in the snow trying to melt the condensate pipe in the gutter.
Almost certainly the biggest problem was caused by the snow in the gutter
restricting the condensate pipe. I took a lot of phonecalls from people over
the cold spell with "broken" boilers. They were all frozen condensates.
Cheers
Adam
I will see what happens this winter. I did consider options inside the house
and they were all messy to run. The other option was to tee it into the
rainwater downpipe.
I've no experience of any of this but ISTM that you might be able to
prevent freeze-ups by installing a fat pipe projecting only an inch or
so outside the wall; and then position a funnel underneath to collect
the water and route it to a drain. Is there any reason why not?
--
Mike Barnes
The condense is acidic & should not go through metallic pipes if you
have any.
Also should not come in contact with brick/concrete work
Not in the loft it won't.
Indeed, it probably represents yet another potential point of failure,
one such failure mode being that it freezes.
Shouldn't there be a frost stat in the loft to prevent just that? Perhaps
one very good reason why you shouldn't have a boiler in an unheated area.
Most have an arrangement that does that based on a syphon. It mitigates
the effect but fails in a long cold spell such as the past winter. Each
'flush' builds up a film of ice until the pipe is blocked.
--
djc