Replacing Tile Hanging with Rendering

[RzB]

I'm considering removing the awful 60's green tile hanging on our house and replacing with some sort of rendered finish, using some kind of insulating board under the rendering.

Has anyone any experience of doing this?

Any advice would be most appreciated?

RzB

[Tim Lamb]

In message <74b61967-4b2c-4ecc...@googlegroups.com>, RzB
<r...@gillandroy.com> writes

Not hanging tiles but...

This house is partly walled with 4"x2" timber studwork (probably
originally feather edge clad) cement rendered over expanded metal.

In 1995 we had the exterior insulated (only 25mm Kingspan!) and
re-covered in boarding and more metal lath and render.

The architects insisted that the exterior paintwork was grit blasted off
to allow moisture permeation.

The technique used was to nail up vertically 25mm treated battens
trapping strips of 25mm Kingspan. Metal lathing (expanded metal sheets)
was attached and cement render applied.

18 years later the only problem is tiny horizontal cracks where the
metal lath laps. Clearly much thicker insulation would be used today.

--
Tim Lamb

[John Rumm]

From memory, how much difference did you think the insulation made?


--
Cheers,

John.

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[Tim Lamb]

In message <dbydnZQ5VuFrTn7M...@brightview.co.uk>, John
Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes

>> The technique used was to nail up vertically 25mm treated battens
>> trapping strips of 25mm Kingspan. Metal lathing (expanded metal sheets)
>> was attached and cement render applied.
>>
>> 18 years later the only problem is tiny horizontal cracks where the
>> metal lath laps. Clearly much thicker insulation would be used today.
>
>From memory, how much difference did you think the insulation made?

We were not living here at the time so difficult to say. I do have a
childhood recollection of finding my discarded hot water bottle
completely frozen one morning.

Technically the alterations would have brought the building up to the BR
requirements of the day. 2.3 Watts/m2/deg. C?

I think 75mm Kingspan would meet current regs. but others may care to
correct this.

The cladding was stopped at DPC level and a deliberate *drip* formed to
run water clear of the brickwork. If you add more insulation, you will
have a bigger step/ledge where it ends.
>
>

--
Tim Lamb

[John Rumm]

On 15/07/2013 13:02, Tim Lamb wrote:
> In message <dbydnZQ5VuFrTn7M...@brightview.co.uk>, John
> Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
>>> The technique used was to nail up vertically 25mm treated battens
>>> trapping strips of 25mm Kingspan. Metal lathing (expanded metal sheets)
>>> was attached and cement render applied.
>>>
>>> 18 years later the only problem is tiny horizontal cracks where the
>>> metal lath laps. Clearly much thicker insulation would be used today.
>>
>> From memory, how much difference did you think the insulation made?
>
> We were not living here at the time so difficult to say. I do have a
> childhood recollection of finding my discarded hot water bottle
> completely frozen one morning.
>
> Technically the alterations would have brought the building up to the BR
> requirements of the day. 2.3 Watts/m2/deg. C?

PIR foam's k values is about 0.025, so 25mm of that would have dropped
the heat loss to a U value of a tad under 1 (a 9" solid brick wall on
its own is about 2.2)

> I think 75mm Kingspan would meet current regs. but others may care to
> correct this.
>
> The cladding was stopped at DPC level and a deliberate *drip* formed to
> run water clear of the brickwork. If you add more insulation, you will
> have a bigger step/ledge where it ends.

Indeed - I may try something similar, although I expect boarding the
outside would be cheaper than render now.

[harryagain]

"RzB" <r...@gillandroy.com> wrote in message
news:74b61967-4b2c-4ecc...@googlegroups.com...

You might consider replacing with some external insulation.
Check that you have in fact got cavity walls behind the tiles.
Sometimes the tiles replaced the outer leaf in nasty cheap construction.
It was common in the 60's/70's, the lower floor had cavity walls, the upper
was timber frame or single leaf brick/block construction with vertical
tiles. Tarred paper behind the tiles.
If this is the case if you remove the tiles you can't just render, you
would get damp in. (And there may only be timber frame behind)
You would have to put up an outer leaf (or external insulation which will
have some sort of weatherproof finish.)


So first job is to check the construction of the building.

[RzB]

snip

>
> Sometimes the tiles replaced the outer leaf in nasty cheap construction.
> It was common in the 60's/70's, the lower floor had cavity walls, the upper
> was timber frame or single leaf brick/block construction with vertical
> tiles. Tarred paper behind the tiles.
>
> If this is the case if you remove the tiles you can't just render, you
> would get damp in. (And there may only be timber frame behind)
>
> You would have to put up an outer leaf (or external insulation which will
> have some sort of weatherproof finish.)
>

Yes indeed - the construction is cavity wall in the lower floors and single skin of blocks (those horrible clinker type things) on the upper floor. Tarred paper behind the tiles.

Has anyone any experience with these people....

http://www.externalinsulation.co.uk/insulated-render

RzB

[harryagain]

"RzB" <r...@gillandroy.com> wrote in message

news:d78296ef-f542-40f5...@googlegroups.com...

Where these people come unstuck is the external weatherproof finish,
especially round doors and windows.
ie, with leaks
You need to see some of their previous work done a few years previously and
talk to the house owner. Examine closely esp. round doors, windows etc.

You want as thick insulation as possible.
This will be limited by the overhang of the roof.

You also need to consider if any doors/windows need renewing at the same
time. It may be costly/imposible after the insulation goes on.

External pipework will have to be removed/modified.

Telephone wires may have to be moved.

You may need new guttering.

Drains/gulleys may have to be moved.

This is not a minor project.

Oh and the house needs to be detached.. If not it will look really peculiar
and the neighbour will love you if you mess up the appearance of their house

[sm_jamieson]

Some terraces done near me, they hid the join along the downpipe. Looks OK, but the houses are not terribly attractive in the first place !
Simon.

[harryagain]

"sm_jamieson" <sm_ja...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bcc30839-7fb6-45c7...@googlegroups.com...

Well, best thing to do is go along and have a natter with them. You may turn
up some interesting information and avoid some cock ups.