alternative way to install a lintel
swimmydeepo
make a new opening) using strong boys and needles. I don't have such
tools and thinking of adopting another method:
1) use a angle grinder to cut out some mortar (about 60%) where the
lintel is going to be installed
2 install one of those Catnic steel lintel "L" shaped or
similar....the lintel won't seats completely as the old mortar is
still on place but it should work fine.
3) take out the bricks to create new opening
4) finish job by installing a proper lintel just under the L shaped
one (making sure the top row of bricks is wider than the opening in
order to accomodate the new lintel). The L shaped one can then be
removed (useful for the next installation).
For most jobs point 4 would not be necessary. Furthermore, if access
to the other side of the opening is not an issue it would be possible
to install another L shaped lintel on the other side for extra
security.
How does it sound? Isn't that neater than using Strong Boys and
Needles?
Constructive criticism welcomed.
Dave Plowman (News)
<724ea1b4-34fa-44e3...@w36g2000yqm.googlegroups.com>,
swimmydeepo <swimm...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> I have a rough idea of how to install a lintel on an existing wall (to
> make a new opening) using strong boys and needles. I don't have such
> tools and thinking of adopting another method:
Strong boys and needles are effectively the same thing. With either you
need acrows or similar. You'd normally hire rather than buy.
The advantage of a strongboy is it works from one side only - with a
needle you need props either side of the wall.
--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
fred
<724ea1b4-34fa-44e3...@w36g2000yqm.googlegroups.com>,
swimmydeepo <swimm...@yahoo.co.uk> writes
I think the weakness will be how you maintain support of the structure
whilst allowing access to pack in mortar between the new lintel and the
supported brickwork.
With needles you have wide access and with strongboys you have broad
alternating points of support that can be filled and released when the
mortar has set.
Maybe have a think about how would you maintain partial support with the
angle while giving access to provide a reliable support with mortar when
the angle is removed.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs
NT
May be quicker to just use some timber a row of bricks up. Put a
horizontail rail on, suported at the ends either on its own uprights
or by attaching to supported brickwork. Nail into mortar joints to
provide brick support, bearing in mind brickwork is to a fair degree
self supporting if the bottom row is kept in place. As long as its
just the usual domestic small triangle of brickwork to support. If its
something grander & larger I'd be a lot more thorough. A lot of
builders out there just do it with no support - not recommended
really.
NT
Tony Bryer
> I have a rough idea of how to install a lintel on an existing wall
> (to make a new opening) using strong boys and needles. I don't have
> such tools and thinking of adopting another method:
As others have said, you usually hire these.
How thick is the wall: if half brick (100mm), then I would want to
prop anything bigger than a single door opening. If it's a solid one
brick wall (215mm) then one option is to use twin beams: cut away on
one side, insert one beam, pin up and allow packing to set, then do
the other side.
--
Tony Bryer, 'Software to build on' from Greentram
www.superbeam.co.uk www.superbeam.com www.greentram.com
swimmydeepo
the wall is actually a chimney breast which is going to be modified to
regain some space. In particular, the overall structure remains intact
with only an aperture in the front to accomodate e.g. a TV/media unit
or a cupboard....so I'm dealing with a single leaf of bricks.
The supporting issue doesn't seems to pose a problem...basically I'm
racking out some mortar - similar to a repointing job just a bit
deeper (let's say 60% maybe more) and installing a L shaped lintel -
this so far seems to be a fairly safe and simple job.
The opening should be around 1.5-1.8 m wide, so the lintel is going to
be around 2m maximum.
The main issue is whether it is safe to leave the lintel in place as
it isn't completely in place or installing a proper one underneath
(e.g. a squared shaped one) .
Cicero
================================================
I think you'll need the temporary lintel to be at least 12" (6" + 6")
longer than the permanent one. Try a drawing to see what I mean - if I'm
correct.If you go ahead wedge the temporary lintel in its highest position
- i.e. tight against the bricks above it.
Cic.
--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================
RobertL
> make a new opening) using strong boys and needles. I don't have such
Don't people do this using two "U" shaped lbeams bolted together back
to back to make an H? You dig out the brickwork through half the
thickness of the wall and insert the first U, pack and cement it in so
it takes the weight. then you dig out the bricks theother side and
insert the other one and bolt them together then pack and cement in.
Robert
dennis@home
"swimmydeepo" <swimm...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ab9c6b55-cc56-43b6...@l2g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
Just a little note..
some chimney breasts carry far more load than the brickwork above them.
like there may be concrete liners and other stuff to support.
One I saw had a thick concrete slab resting on it and a double walled
concrete chimney on top of that.
You have checked?
swimmydeepo
"You dig out the brickwork through half the
It seems to me you are considering a double leaf wall...anyhow, how
are the bricks above kept from falling down? Using Strongboys?
(something I wasn't considering using in the first place). Maybe I'm
missing your point here or I'm being overcautious...basically I want
to play safe...racking some mortar sounds pretty safe to me.
swimmydeepo
wrote:
> "swimmydeepo" <swimmyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
I get your point...
I've just removed the chimney stack and about to cover the hole with
new felt and slates. I'm checking the structure as I go from the top.
There are two flues (one for the ground floor the other for the first
floor). The concrete slab (is that the one called earth?) rests on
some joists and on the chimney breast...I'm thinking of having it
removed.
The chimney breast on the ground floor take so much space it is well
worth getting rid of it completely, but I'll have a proper check first.
RobertL
No, this was for for a solid(200mm) wall. It's what my engineer
specified, but when the builders actually did it they used acrow props
both sides and took all the bricks out in one go.
Playing safe is a good idea!
Robert