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Removing 'varnish' from veneer.
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Dave Plowman (News)
Aug 14, 2012, 6:47:33 AM8/14/12
to
Really must do something about the woodwork in the old car. It's all
easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
peeling.
But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
simply don't, as it were.
--
*Oh, what a tangled website we weave when first we practice *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
peeling.
But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
simply don't, as it were.
--
*Oh, what a tangled website we weave when first we practice *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Nick Odell
Aug 14, 2012, 7:27:53 AM8/14/12
to
On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 11:47:33 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>Really must do something about the woodwork in the old car. It's all
>easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
>wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
>peeling.
>
>But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
>simply don't, as it were.
How old is the old car? Do you know what finish we are talking about
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>Really must do something about the woodwork in the old car. It's all
>easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
>wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
>peeling.
>
>But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
>simply don't, as it were.
here? If it's very very old, I'd associate finish checking with
cellulose nitrate in which case I'd try and dissolve it with cellulose
paint thinners (though to be honest i would have expected paint
stripper to make an easy job of removing it first).
Another finish that was common in the 70s was polyester. This
continues to harden with age and the cracking and peeling you describe
is a common symptom. Opinion in my circle (which covers
polyester-sprayed electric guitars in particular) is that a heat gun
is the way to go here.
Nick
Andy Dingley
Aug 14, 2012, 7:26:54 AM8/14/12
to
On Aug 14, 11:47 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
wrote:
Triumphs) I've replaced them with a newly veneered panel, with better
veneer.
It's also quite easy to simply make a new panel from scratch. This is
useful for installing new switchgear or radios. I also tend to move
the ignition keys down to a Saab-style transmission lock.
For a finish then I use either French-polished shellac (looks great,
retouches easily in the future) or Rustins acid-cure floor varnish, as
it's hardest and resists keys.
wrote:
> But how to remove it without damage to the veneer?
Angle grinder! Then re-veneer. Whenever I've done this (sundry
Triumphs) I've replaced them with a newly veneered panel, with better
veneer.
It's also quite easy to simply make a new panel from scratch. This is
useful for installing new switchgear or radios. I also tend to move
the ignition keys down to a Saab-style transmission lock.
For a finish then I use either French-polished shellac (looks great,
retouches easily in the future) or Rustins acid-cure floor varnish, as
it's hardest and resists keys.
geraldthehamster
Aug 14, 2012, 7:49:36 AM8/14/12
to
On 14 Aug, 11:47, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
> Really must do something about the woodwork in the old car. It's all
> easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
> wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
> peeling.
>
> But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
> simply don't, as it were.
>
> --
> *Oh, what a tangled website we weave when first we practice *
>
> Dave Plowman d...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
> Really must do something about the woodwork in the old car. It's all
> easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
> wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
> peeling.
>
> But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
> simply don't, as it were.
>
> --
> *Oh, what a tangled website we weave when first we practice *
>
> To e-mail, change noise into sound.
I've done this on wood door trims and dashboards when helping a friend
restore late 40s/early50s cars, and Nitormors did the job. However
they've removed the stuff that worked from Nitromors now, haven't
they?
Cheers
Richard
Dave Plowman (News)
Aug 14, 2012, 8:09:44 AM8/14/12
to
In article <84dk28hk0i88boikd...@4ax.com>,
> Do you know what finish we are talking about
> here? If it's very very old, I'd associate finish checking with
> cellulose nitrate in which case I'd try and dissolve it with cellulose
> paint thinners (though to be honest i would have expected paint
> stripper to make an easy job of removing it first).
The sort of paint stripper you can buy these days won't touch cellulose -
I've tried it - unlike the Nitromors etc of a few years back.
> Another finish that was common in the 70s was polyester. This
> continues to harden with age and the cracking and peeling you describe
> is a common symptom. Opinion in my circle (which covers
> polyester-sprayed electric guitars in particular) is that a heat gun
> is the way to go here.
Right - I'll give that a try.
--
*You can't teach an old mouse new clicks *
Nick Odell <gurzhfvp...@ntlworld.com.invalid> wrote:
> How old is the old car?
1985
> How old is the old car?
> Do you know what finish we are talking about
> here? If it's very very old, I'd associate finish checking with
> cellulose nitrate in which case I'd try and dissolve it with cellulose
> paint thinners (though to be honest i would have expected paint
> stripper to make an easy job of removing it first).
I've tried it - unlike the Nitromors etc of a few years back.
> Another finish that was common in the 70s was polyester. This
> continues to harden with age and the cracking and peeling you describe
> is a common symptom. Opinion in my circle (which covers
> polyester-sprayed electric guitars in particular) is that a heat gun
> is the way to go here.
--
*You can't teach an old mouse new clicks *
Dave Plowman (News)
Aug 14, 2012, 8:11:52 AM8/14/12
to
In article
<157a93f6-daa4-48cc...@m3g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
> It's also quite easy to simply make a new panel from scratch. This is
> useful for installing new switchgear or radios. I also tend to move
> the ignition keys down to a Saab-style transmission lock.
It's not a complete dash like Triumph used - just panels of wood.
> For a finish then I use either French-polished shellac (looks great,
> retouches easily in the future) or Rustins acid-cure floor varnish, as
> it's hardest and resists keys.
I'll keep a note of that.
--
*Sleep with a photographer and watch things develop
<157a93f6-daa4-48cc...@m3g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
> On Aug 14, 11:47 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
> wrote:
> > But how to remove it without damage to the veneer?
> Angle grinder! Then re-veneer. Whenever I've done this (sundry
> Triumphs) I've replaced them with a newly veneered panel, with better
> veneer.
I can buy NOS panels, but they're not perfect.
> On Aug 14, 11:47 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
> wrote:
> > But how to remove it without damage to the veneer?
> Angle grinder! Then re-veneer. Whenever I've done this (sundry
> Triumphs) I've replaced them with a newly veneered panel, with better
> veneer.
> It's also quite easy to simply make a new panel from scratch. This is
> useful for installing new switchgear or radios. I also tend to move
> the ignition keys down to a Saab-style transmission lock.
> For a finish then I use either French-polished shellac (looks great,
> retouches easily in the future) or Rustins acid-cure floor varnish, as
> it's hardest and resists keys.
--
*Sleep with a photographer and watch things develop
The Natural Philosopher
Aug 14, 2012, 8:16:43 AM8/14/12
to
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article
> <157a93f6-daa4-48cc...@m3g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
> Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
>> On Aug 14, 11:47 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
>> wrote:
>>> But how to remove it without damage to the veneer?
>
>> Angle grinder! Then re-veneer. Whenever I've done this (sundry
>> Triumphs) I've replaced them with a newly veneered panel, with better
>> veneer.
>
> I can buy NOS panels, but they're not perfect.
>
>> It's also quite easy to simply make a new panel from scratch. This is
>> useful for installing new switchgear or radios. I also tend to move
>> the ignition keys down to a Saab-style transmission lock.
>
> It's not a complete dash like Triumph used - just panels of wood.
>
in which case maybe re veneer them after either sanding or dissolving
> In article
> <157a93f6-daa4-48cc...@m3g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
> Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
>> On Aug 14, 11:47 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
>> wrote:
>>> But how to remove it without damage to the veneer?
>
>> Angle grinder! Then re-veneer. Whenever I've done this (sundry
>> Triumphs) I've replaced them with a newly veneered panel, with better
>> veneer.
>
> I can buy NOS panels, but they're not perfect.
>
>> It's also quite easy to simply make a new panel from scratch. This is
>> useful for installing new switchgear or radios. I also tend to move
>> the ignition keys down to a Saab-style transmission lock.
>
> It's not a complete dash like Triumph used - just panels of wood.
>
the old shit off.
Id soak in acetone - if that dissolved the glue so be it, if its any
spirit based varnish it will strip it. If its polyester - give up and
sand. Or use heat gun.
>> For a finish then I use either French-polished shellac (looks great,
>> retouches easily in the future) or Rustins acid-cure floor varnish, as
>> it's hardest and resists keys.
>
> I'll keep a note of that.
>
--
(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.
Dave Plowman (News)
Aug 14, 2012, 8:34:02 AM8/14/12
to
In article <k0dfjb$2fj$3...@news.albasani.net>,
necessitating re-veneering? I'd be surprised if the firm which quoted 250
for the lot replaces the veneer.
--
*Very funny Scotty, now beam down my clothes.
The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> in which case maybe re veneer them after either sanding or dissolving
> the old shit off.
> Id soak in acetone - if that dissolved the glue so be it, if its any
> spirit based varnish it will strip it. If its polyester - give up and
> sand. Or use heat gun.
There surely must be a chemical etc which will remove the varnish without
> in which case maybe re veneer them after either sanding or dissolving
> the old shit off.
> Id soak in acetone - if that dissolved the glue so be it, if its any
> spirit based varnish it will strip it. If its polyester - give up and
> sand. Or use heat gun.
necessitating re-veneering? I'd be surprised if the firm which quoted 250
for the lot replaces the veneer.
--
*Very funny Scotty, now beam down my clothes.
Andy Dingley
Aug 14, 2012, 8:29:02 AM8/14/12
to
On Aug 14, 1:11 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
wrote:
> > For a finish
BTW - to strip it, I use wire wool. Use several grades of it - maybe
0 or 00 top start with, then 000 to finish. 0000 is for rubbing down
during your re-varnishing. Final rub before refinishing is done with
3M or Webrax plastic scourers.
Don't use steel wool around wood containing tannin (oak or chestnut),
as the iron gives blue or black staining afterwards. Some people claim
walnut can be an issue too, which makes it a problem for dashes. Use
plastic, bronze or stainless abrasives instead. If you must use coarse
steel wool to start, vacuum it afterwards to get the ferrous dust out.
wrote:
> > For a finish
BTW - to strip it, I use wire wool. Use several grades of it - maybe
0 or 00 top start with, then 000 to finish. 0000 is for rubbing down
during your re-varnishing. Final rub before refinishing is done with
3M or Webrax plastic scourers.
Don't use steel wool around wood containing tannin (oak or chestnut),
as the iron gives blue or black staining afterwards. Some people claim
walnut can be an issue too, which makes it a problem for dashes. Use
plastic, bronze or stainless abrasives instead. If you must use coarse
steel wool to start, vacuum it afterwards to get the ferrous dust out.
The Natural Philosopher
Aug 14, 2012, 9:31:43 AM8/14/12
to
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <k0dfjb$2fj$3...@news.albasani.net>,
> The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> in which case maybe re veneer them after either sanding or dissolving
>> the old shit off.
>> Id soak in acetone - if that dissolved the glue so be it, if its any
>> spirit based varnish it will strip it. If its polyester - give up and
>> sand. Or use heat gun.
>
> There surely must be a chemical etc which will remove the varnish without
> necessitating re-veneering? I'd be surprised if the firm which quoted 250
> for the lot replaces the veneer.
>
well it depends on how the veneer was applied: It it was done with PVA
> In article <k0dfjb$2fj$3...@news.albasani.net>,
> The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> in which case maybe re veneer them after either sanding or dissolving
>> the old shit off.
>> Id soak in acetone - if that dissolved the glue so be it, if its any
>> spirit based varnish it will strip it. If its polyester - give up and
>> sand. Or use heat gun.
>
> There surely must be a chemical etc which will remove the varnish without
> necessitating re-veneering? I'd be surprised if the firm which quoted 250
> for the lot replaces the veneer.
>
and pressure or hot glue or something like cascamite its will be happy
with acetone.
But that will dissolve all the old varnish if its cellulose.
Rob
Aug 14, 2012, 2:50:31 PM8/14/12
to
On 14/08/2012 13:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <84dk28hk0i88boikd...@4ax.com>,
> Nick Odell <gurzhfvp...@ntlworld.com.invalid> wrote:
>> How old is the old car?
>
> 1985
>
>> Do you know what finish we are talking about
>> here? If it's very very old, I'd associate finish checking with
>> cellulose nitrate in which case I'd try and dissolve it with cellulose
>> paint thinners (though to be honest i would have expected paint
>> stripper to make an easy job of removing it first).
>
> The sort of paint stripper you can buy these days won't touch cellulose -
> I've tried it - unlike the Nitromors etc of a few years back.
>
A guy who's doing up a property near me uses: Starchem 5 Ltr Paint
> In article <84dk28hk0i88boikd...@4ax.com>,
> Nick Odell <gurzhfvp...@ntlworld.com.invalid> wrote:
>> How old is the old car?
>
> 1985
>
>> Do you know what finish we are talking about
>> here? If it's very very old, I'd associate finish checking with
>> cellulose nitrate in which case I'd try and dissolve it with cellulose
>> paint thinners (though to be honest i would have expected paint
>> stripper to make an easy job of removing it first).
>
> The sort of paint stripper you can buy these days won't touch cellulose -
> I've tried it - unlike the Nitromors etc of a few years back.
>
Stripper 'Synstrip',
and says it's what Nitromors used to be.
I bought a gallon on ebay to strip paint from wood - absolutely disgusting
stuff but works for my purposes.
Might be worth asking for a jam jar full from your local repairers and
giving it a go?
Rob
NT
Aug 15, 2012, 9:07:27 AM8/15/12
to
On Aug 14, 11:47 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
wrote:
just not lablled as paint stripper. It is however toxic enough to make
some precautions essential. When stripping I prefer to avoid it.
NT
wrote:
> Really must do something about the woodwork in the old car. It's all
> easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
> wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
> peeling.
>
> But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
> simply don't, as it were.
Nitromors was methylene chloride, which can still legally be bought,
> easily removable. Got a quote of 250 gbp for having it re-done. The actual
> wood and veneer looks fine - it's just the 'varnish' which is cracked and
> peeling.
>
> But how to remove it without damage to the veneer? Modern paint strippers
> simply don't, as it were.
just not lablled as paint stripper. It is however toxic enough to make
some precautions essential. When stripping I prefer to avoid it.
NT
Dave Plowman (News)
Aug 15, 2012, 10:15:04 AM8/15/12
to
In article
<f3a6f79d-54a5-4f9f...@cf4g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
Nitromors doesn't. Even although it is still an expensive product.
--
*Cleaned by Stevie Wonder, checked by David Blunkett*
<f3a6f79d-54a5-4f9f...@cf4g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
NT <meow...@care2.com> wrote:
> Nitromors was methylene chloride, which can still legally be bought,
> just not lablled as paint stripper. It is however toxic enough to make
> some precautions essential. When stripping I prefer to avoid it.
I'm happy enough to do it outdoors. Thing is it actually worked. Modern
> Nitromors was methylene chloride, which can still legally be bought,
> just not lablled as paint stripper. It is however toxic enough to make
> some precautions essential. When stripping I prefer to avoid it.
Nitromors doesn't. Even although it is still an expensive product.
--
*Cleaned by Stevie Wonder, checked by David Blunkett*
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