Replacing a Stuart Turner shower pump

[Eusebius]

Hello folks - advice needed on replacing a Stuart Turner Showermate
1.4 bar twin shower pump. Pump is 10 years old and getting noisy.

- can these pumps be serviced? Is it bearings, or do these pumps just
wear out?
- if the piping to this unit is fixed not flexible (it's in a box and
not visible until the box is removed) then are there new pumps with
exactly the same spacing as the existing unit, so replacement is easy?
Is there such a thing as standard spacing? Do new Stuart Turner units
have the same spacing as older models?
- what's the best Stuart Turner new model to replace this, as above?
- should I consider other models, particularly if they have the same
spacing, and if so which?

This will all help in choosing a new pump. I'm in West London
(Hammersmith) so any suppliers round there would be welcome.

Andy

[John Rumm]

On 22/01/2012 14:18, Eusebius wrote:
> Hello folks - advice needed on replacing a Stuart Turner Showermate
> 1.4 bar twin shower pump. Pump is 10 years old and getting noisy.
>
> - can these pumps be serviced? Is it bearings, or do these pumps just
> wear out?

If you take it to a local motor rewind place, they will be able to
replace the bearings if needs be. It depends a bit on if it is the pump
or the motor making the noise.

Bits ought to be easy to get:

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/stuart-turner/ST-PARENT-33-Stuart-Turner-Showermate-1-4-Bar-Twin-1-2-Bar-Single-1-8-Bar-Twin-Special-Export

> - if the piping to this unit is fixed not flexible (it's in a box and
> not visible until the box is removed) then are there new pumps with
> exactly the same spacing as the existing unit, so replacement is easy?

I have fitted the 1.8 bar shower mate somewhere before... that had push
fit fittings on the pump housing itself, but came with 12" reinforced
rubber pipes make the final connection.

> Is there such a thing as standard spacing? Do new Stuart Turner units
> have the same spacing as older models?
> - what's the best Stuart Turner new model to replace this, as above?
> - should I consider other models, particularly if they have the same
> spacing, and if so which?

Depends on if you want more pressure. Some of the higher end models use
more brass in the construction. Some of the 1.4bar ones are engineering
plastics IIRC.

> This will all help in choosing a new pump. I'm in West London
> (Hammersmith) so any suppliers round there would be welcome.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

[John Williamson]

The makers aren't too far away from you:-
http://www.stuart-turner.co.uk/contact-us

Henley-on-Thames.

They've been accused in the past of being very helpful.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

[Jo...@underthewagon.net]

The rumbling may not be bearings, but more likely is an indication of
water flow issues. The Inlet/Outlet assemblies at each end get limed
up over the period that your quote. So do the float valves that are
intended to prevent scalding if the cold water supply fails. ST's
help desk will sell you replacement parts and will provide advice.

Alternatively, the thing can be cleaned out. I paid a plumber a
ridiculous sum to do it, but it was still cheaper than replacing the
pump and conveniently coincided with other more major works. If you
can (be arsed to) isolate the water supply, it's probably worth a try
as a DIY. Unfortunately, in my case there were other issues with pipe
constrictions becuase of lime deposits...

Regards
JonH

[Eusebius]

Thanks for your input so far. The pump is at the appartement of my ex
so I can't see it. She took the front off the box and sent some
pictures, and yes, there are flexible armoured rubber pipes going into
the unit. Looks like these can be disconnected and re-attached fairly
easily so it may be user replaceable. There is one tap visible on one
of the input pipes - not sure about the other, there may be a tap
elsewhere in the piping system.

So looks like a question of whether to buy another unit or take the
existing one off and try and change some parts. Opinions?

May be hard water in this part of London - this may give a clue to
what parts need replacing. I read that these pumps are easy to take
apart - is this true? Would the problem parts be visible?

My ex says the sound is like a constant rrrrrrrrrrrrr.

andy

[Newshound]

Personally I would take it apart and look, but I really enjoy fixing
things. As others have said, Stuart Turner has an excellent reputation
for availability of spares. I have two, but have never needed to take
them apart. You might give them a ring or email for an opinion, quoting
the age and location?

If you want a quick and cheap fix, swap it out for a basic one from a
shed / BES / Screwfix and offer the ST on ebay for spares or repair. You
will probably make a profit.

[Chris]

"Eusebius" <performan...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c4121366-a13a-4642...@z31g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...

A source close to you is (or certainly used to be as I bought one there a
few years back) :-
Fulham Heating, 229 Dawes Road Fulham SW6 7RD
(020 7381 1147)

Chris

[Eusebius]

On Jan 23, 1:32 pm, "Chris" <c.nosp...@aol.com> wrote:
> "Eusebius" <performanceandme...@gmail.com> wrote in message

Thanks Chris - moving on a bit!

[Charlie]

Ironically I am in a near identical situation, just replaced the
capacitor on the pump at my tenants flat. Now she is complaining that
it is making an awful racket. To try and minimise the number of times
I have to travel there what should I be checking, it's ages since I
fitted so I can't remember where the filters etc are. Is it just a
case of turning off the water - disconnecting everything, have a clean
and put it back together?

[Charlie]

On Jan 22, 2:18 pm, Eusebius <performanceandme...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Jan 22, 6:18 pm, Eusebius <performanceandme...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks for your input so far. The pump is at the appartement of my ex
> so I can't see it. She took the front off the box and sent some
> pictures, and yes, there are flexible armoured rubber pipes going into
> the unit. Looks like these can be disconnected and re-attached fairly
> easily so it may be user replaceable. There is one tap visible on one
> of the input pipes - not sure about the other, there may be a tap
> elsewhere in the piping system.
>
> So looks like a question of whether to buy another unit or take the
> existing one off and try and change some parts. Opinions?
>
> May be hard water in this part of London - this may give a clue to
> what parts need replacing. I read that these pumps are easy to take
> apart - is this true? Would the problem parts be visible?
>
> My ex says the sound is like a constant rrrrrrrrrrrrr.
>
> andy

I got my hand on the pump today, it was seized. So after turning off
and disconnecting the inputs pipes I took the ends off and gave the
motors a manual turn (the hot one was quite stiff). Reassembled and it
whizzed into life. Unfortunately this turned into a screeching!

Phoned Stuart Turner and they said there were some seal inside the
unit that probably needs replacing and it might be worth cutting my
losses and replacing the pump as it was 7 years old and in a hard
water area. They said the replacement would be of the same
dimensions :-) They were very helpful actually.

Picked up a new on online for £125, going to go back and fit it next
week.

I have failed to mention that the gate valve for the hot water isn't
working properly was still letting water through so when I took the
end off the pump water went every where. In my attempt to screw that
end back one I cut my hands to shreds on the edge of a tile that was
exposed (I had to take some boxing off). I also managed to burn my arm
against the hot pipe as well.

Well at least I feel like I've done something today.

Would be nice to know why I couldn't get the gate valve to shut
properly. I took the handle off and tried with a spanner and got it as
tight as it would go but it was still letting water through. Just
capped the pipe, with a push fit, in the end whilst I was working.

Good luck

Charlie

[Tim]

Charlie <charlie...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Would be nice to know why I couldn't get the gate valve to shut
> properly. I took the handle off and tried with a spanner and got it as
> tight as it would go but it was still letting water through. Just
> capped the pipe, with a push fit, in the end whilst I was working.

They're all like that (after a while). Crud builds up in the bed of the
gate preventing good sealing. They're really pretty hopeless as isolating
valves as more often than not, when you want to use them, they won't close
properly.

Tim

[Doctor Drivel]

"Eusebius" <performan...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:83083206-4c47-4b9c...@k29g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...

It may be worth considering ditching the pump and going mains pressure if
the cold mains are good enough. What setup do you have?

[John Rumm]

The other fun party trick is when the gate fractures off the tap
mechanism. Hence you twiddle and absolutely nothing happens. Sometimes
it does it when open, other times when shut - and there is stays! ;-)

[Charlie]

On Jan 27, 3:14 pm, "Doctor Drivel" <inva...@not-for-mail.invalid>
wrote:
> "Eusebius" <performanceandme...@gmail.com> wrote in message

I'm going to replace the pump, as it does make a big difference.
Especially as it's a fairly long run from the hot and cold water tanks
to the downstairs showers. It's at a house I let so I just want to get
in, change it and get out in an hour or so.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[Doctor Drivel]

"Charlie" <charlie...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c342119e-8702-48ba...@w4g2000vbc.googlegroups.com...

Mains pressure does away with cold water tanks.

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <rpSdnX6tjuFNVb_S...@brightview.co.uk>,

John Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes:
> On 27/01/2012 14:37, Tim wrote:
>> Charlie<charlie...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Would be nice to know why I couldn't get the gate valve to shut
>>> properly. I took the handle off and tried with a spanner and got it as
>>> tight as it would go but it was still letting water through. Just
>>> capped the pipe, with a push fit, in the end whilst I was working.
>>
>> They're all like that (after a while). Crud builds up in the bed of the
>> gate preventing good sealing. They're really pretty hopeless as isolating
>> valves as more often than not, when you want to use them, they won't close
>> properly.
>
> The other fun party trick is when the gate fractures off the tap
> mechanism. Hence you twiddle and absolutely nothing happens. Sometimes
> it does it when open, other times when shut - and there is stays! ;-)

The original heating here has a gate valve either side of the
C/H pump, so you can change it without draining down.
First one gate valve started leaking, so I had to drain down
to replace it. Then the other gate valve started leaking, so
I had to drain down to replace that. So that's two drain downs
to replace the two valves which are there to avoid having to
drain down. I've never had to replace the pump.

There are various other gate valves for isolating bits of the
plumbing, none of which get anywhere near to closing off.

Hate the damn things.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[Man at B&Q]

That's pretty damning for something that is often touted here as being
good quality.

MBQ

[Man at B&Q]

On Jan 28, 12:11 am, "Doctor Drivel" <inva...@not-for-mail.invalid>
wrote:
> "Charlie" <charlieopens...@gmail.com> wrote in message

What was it that did away with your brains?

MBQ

[The Natural Philosopher]

What evidence do you have that there were any to start with?


Mind you as with any random monkey, in this case the statement is
randomly correct.

[Doctor Drivel]

My God! The wit flows.