Is it possible to paint oil stained wood?
Ian Phillips
mahogany window frames, Thanks to who offered advice. Unfortunately the
situation has slowly got more complicated!
We have had a hardwood conservatory build by a local builder who contracted
the joinery and the glazing to different companies. We liased with the
shopfitters who made the woodwork and told them that it was going to be
painted (by ourselves) inside and out. They treated all the woodwork with
'clear wood preservative' before it was delivered and said that would
protect the wood for a few weeks.
After the conservatory was erected the glaziers fitted all the glass using
Butyl putty on the rebates but installed the glazing beads dry. They said
that it was normal to put a small bead of silicone between the bead and the
glass after painting. In the event some rain leaked in so all the beads were
removed and they too were bedded on Butyl putty.
The problem is that the oil in the putty (Linseed?) has soaked into the wood
(Sapele Mahogany) to an amazing extent, mainly on the interior. Some of the
oil patches are about 6x2 inches and actually have liquid oil on the
surface. Heating the wood gently causes even more oil to exude.
My concern is that even if I degrease the surface and apply microporous
paint or aluminium chromate primer (both recommended by different sources)
that when the climate improves, Summer!, the oil will be forced out and lift
the paint.
I have spoken to the ICI (Dulux) help line and they say that they can offer
no solution.
Does anyone have any ideas, the builder is waiting for his final payment!
Ian
Max Bone
>
>The problem is that the oil in the putty (Linseed?) has soaked into the wood
>(Sapele Mahogany) to an amazing extent, mainly on the interior. Some of the
>oil patches are about 6x2 inches and actually have liquid oil on the
>surface. Heating the wood gently causes even more oil to exude.
>
>My concern is that even if I degrease the surface and apply microporous
>paint or aluminium chromate primer (both recommended by different sources)
>that when the climate improves, Summer!, the oil will be forced out and lift
>the paint.
Ian
Your problem seems to hinge around whether or not you should pay the
builder or glaziers, in case they have done 'something' which they
shouldn't... and this 'something' might cause the paint coating film to
lose adhesion next summer?
The job sounds like organised chaos... I can't think of any conservatory
manufacturers who wouldn't deliver and install semi-finished or fully-
finished joinery... and then leave the site within 48 hours with all
work completed.
I'm not sure how you've organised the work... either with each
contractor idependently, or just with the builder... but you need to go
back to the appropriate person and get them to sort out whether or not
the 'oil' from the putty will/will not affect the adhesion of the paint
coating film... ideally you should ask for this in writing from the
manufacturers of the type of putty (whatever it is) used by the
glaziers.
Only the putty manufacturers technical department are likely to be able
to tell you the effect of the 'oil' staining on the future decoration of
your conservatory, and give you the honest information you are looking
for.
Trying to get ICI's technical department (or any other coatings company
for that matter) to become embroiled in what could turn into a legal
battle is unlikely. Your efforts to resolve the matter should be
directed at the company which you employed... and expert advice from the
putty manufacturer could certainly help (as to effects, and how their
product should be used/applied etc..)
As I say... it doesn't sound like you want a solution to the problem, as
you don't yet have one... :) rather a guarantee that the oil won't cause
a loss of adhesion of the paint coating film in the future...
Regards
--
Max Bone Decorating Direct Ltd
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/
hundreds of products - secure online ordering - delivered to your door
Tony
<i...@ianphillips.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>Recently I asked this group what pre-treatment to use before painting
>mahogany window frames, Thanks to who offered advice. Unfortunately the
>situation has slowly got more complicated!
Apologies if I misunderstand the situation but I think you're developing
excessive sensitivity and magnifying the problems. ICI, Pilkingtons and
timber research organisations may be 'scientific' to a degree, but what you
really have there is some pieces of cut up tree combined with sheets of
super-cooled molten sand. Now you intend to coat a substantial part of the
structure with ground up earth and metals in a carrier/binder solution.
It's primitive, but fairly reliable in its simplicity. If you want to paint
the frame, take off the kid gloves, wipe away any excess oil, and begin.
Otherwise, this newly realised object of your desire might become a
protracted source of unwanted distress far outweighing the possible
benefits.
If the original intention was to paint the woodwork, it might 've helped to
prime the glazing rebates before glazing but it's all conjectural.
There's a lot of evidence that painting timber is one of the main
contributing factors to it's early demise. Personally, I'd just oil the
whole thing periodically.
Tony
Stuart Noble
Tony wrote in message ...
>take off the kid gloves, wipe away any excess oil, and begin.
>Otherwise, this newly realised object of your desire might become a
>protracted source of unwanted distress far outweighing the possible
>benefits.
>
>If the original intention was to paint the woodwork, it might 've helped to
>prime the glazing rebates before glazing but it's all conjectural.
>There's a lot of evidence that painting timber is one of the main
>contributing factors to it's early demise. Personally, I'd just oil the
>whole thing periodically.
This butyl putty stuff won't be linseed oil based. Maybe someone could tell
us what the liquid in it actually is. I've seen the stuff and it doesn't
look as though anything would bleed out of it over time.
With sapele I would rub the whole thing down with acrylic primer on a rag.
Looks almost like nothing's on there when it's dry but it bonds well to the
wood and the oil paint.
Ian Phillips
Stuart Noble <stu...@waxworks.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8uu090$7ub$2...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
Thanks to those who have posted on this subject.
Today I spoke to the manufacturer of the Butyl glazing compound who
confirmed that the oil is Linseed and that it forms 10% of the putty.
I found an interesting document on the web regarding the best techniques to
use with wood frames and sealed glazing units. Interestingly they state
that,
"Despite extensive industry guidance to the contrary the use of putty and
butyl compound for glazing IGUs continues to be widespread'
See, http://www.bpg-uk.com/html/tech_insul_glass.html
There are many other technical documents on the same site.
Ian
>
Stuart Noble
Ian Phillips wrote in message
<974316163.8881.0...@news.demon.co.uk>...
>Today I spoke to the manufacturer of the Butyl glazing compound who
>confirmed that the oil is Linseed and that it forms 10% of the putty.
it. It may even be semi-compatible with oil based paint.