Parkside chainsaw oiler

[Tim+]

My cheap and cheerful £79 chainsaw doesn’t appear to be feeding enough oil
to the chain.

If I take the chain bar off and run the engine a slow dribble of oil does
appear at the appropriate orifice but it’s never been enough to produce any
obvious splatter when doing a splatter test. (Holding the chainsaw
vertically over a piece of newspaper and revving the engine should produce
some noticeable splatter on the paper). Chain gets hot very quickly.

Anyone taken one of these apart or know what the common faults are with
cheap chainsaws? Before anyone says “should have bought a proper
chainsaw!”, the Parkside has paid for itself many times over already in
firewood and starts first time, every time.

My next chainsaw will probably be a “proper” one but I’m loath to replace
the Parkside whilst it still runs so well.

Tim


--
Please don't feed the trolls

[Mark]

Have you tried a lighter oil, I use ATF not environmentally friendly but works ok and I have a 25lt drum of it
cleaning out the oil passage in the Bar may also help

--

[Tim+]

Mark <ma...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> Tim+ wrote:
>
>> My cheap and cheerful £79 chainsaw doesn´t appear to be feeding enough oil
>> to the chain.
>>
>> If I take the chain bar off and run the engine a slow dribble of oil does
>> appear at the appropriate orifice but it´s never been enough to produce any
>> obvious splatter when doing a splatter test. (Holding the chainsaw
>> vertically over a piece of newspaper and revving the engine should produce
>> some noticeable splatter on the paper). Chain gets hot very quickly.
>>
>> Anyone taken one of these apart or know what the common faults are with
>> cheap chainsaws? Before anyone says “should have bought a proper
>> chainsaw!”, the Parkside has paid for itself many times over already in
>> firewood and starts first time, every time.
>>
>> My next chainsaw will probably be a “proper” one but I´m loath to replace
>> the Parkside whilst it still runs so well.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>
> Have you tried a lighter oil,

I haven’t, but it did cross my mind that it might just be a viscosity
issue.

> I use ATF not environmentally friendly but works ok and I have a 25lt drum of it
> cleaning out the oil passage in the Bar may also help

I’d rather use “friendly” chainsaw oil and don’t have any ATF. Never looked
before to see if it comes in different viscosities. I guess it probably
does.

[Chris Green]

My (now very old) B&D electric chainsaw has a cam driven oil pump, it
still works OK but it does occasionally ingest some sawdust and that
prevents the pump from working because the associated valve leaks. A
simple disassmbly and clean out fixes the problem. (you do have to
reassemble it as well!)

--
Chris Green
·

[fred]

ATF ? Alcohol Tobaco and Firearms?

[newshound]

Mine has stopped feeding anything. I stripped and repaired my big petrol
job, but it was a bit of a PITA and the spares (stripped plastic gear)
were quite expensive. I've simply taken to carrying an aerosol can of
(bike) chain oil. Yes I know it's not very green, I should use
biodegradable vegetable oil. But I only use it for smaller firewood and
occasionally lopping off branches and fallen saplings on footpaths and
bridleways.

I don't seem to get a problem with chain overheating because I am not
doing the long, continuous cuts that you would with a tree of 30cm plus.

[newshound]

Automatic transmission fluid. A thin mineral oil. "Ordinary" oil
suitably diluted with diesel, white spirit, etc. gives an approximation
for this application.

[Paul]

My hardware store stocks "Summer" and "Winter" chainsaw bar oil.

Both deposit a red biodegradable fluid into the sawdust and all
over the place.

The temperature specification point seems to be zero C. Summer
is any time the air temp is >0 C . Winter time is when the
air temp is <0 C .

It does not state the temperature range on the label,
as that would be too easy.

The Winter oil would be less viscous, and maybe if you drain
and try that stuff, you'll get it pumping (or leaking) again.

They should be fully miscible in one another. I don't
think the intention is to require people to "clean out
the old oil".

Paul

[Brian]

Are you using proper chain saw oil?

Have you checked the feed pipe / hole isn’t blocked by sawdust etc? We had
some trees taken down by a tree surgeon and, part way through, he needed to
change saws while one has cleaned- the oil feed was blocked- by his
colleague.

[Tim+]

Brian <no...@lid.org> wrote:
> Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> My cheap and cheerful £79 chainsaw doesn’t appear to be feeding enough oil
>> to the chain.
>>
>> If I take the chain bar off and run the engine a slow dribble of oil does
>> appear at the appropriate orifice but it’s never been enough to produce any
>> obvious splatter when doing a splatter test. (Holding the chainsaw
>> vertically over a piece of newspaper and revving the engine should produce
>> some noticeable splatter on the paper). Chain gets hot very quickly.
>>
>> Anyone taken one of these apart or know what the common faults are with
>> cheap chainsaws? Before anyone says “should have bought a proper
>> chainsaw!”, the Parkside has paid for itself many times over already in
>> firewood and starts first time, every time.
>>
>> My next chainsaw will probably be a “proper” one but I’m loath to replace
>> the Parkside whilst it still runs so well.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>
> Are you using proper chain saw oil?

Yep.

>
> Have you checked the feed pipe / hole isn’t blocked by sawdust etc?

Difficult as the oil supply never gets near empty. I guess I could drain
it out and have a look but I’m pretty careful when filling.

I suspect I’ve just got to bit the bullet and strip it down I but I rather
suspect that all I really need is some thinner oil.

[newshound]

Please post if this works. I might even drain mine and leave it standing
with white spirit in it if I have an enthusiastic moment over the break.
(Not sure quite how soluble "green" vegetable oil is in white spirit).

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 22/12/2021 12:52, Tim+ wrote:

running a quarter tank of diesel say through it instead of oil might
wash out any gunk - if that doesn't spray everywhere, then you have a
serious problem.

Its a shot to nothing. either it clears it or it proves you need to
strip down. From memory oil pumps are only a couple of quid if you can
find the right part.

And I suspect that in this case you wont.


>
> Tim
>


--
The New Left are the people they warned you about.

[Brian]

Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Brian <no...@lid.org> wrote:
>> Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> My cheap and cheerful £79 chainsaw doesn’t appear to be feeding enough oil
>>> to the chain.
>>>
>>> If I take the chain bar off and run the engine a slow dribble of oil does
>>> appear at the appropriate orifice but it’s never been enough to produce any
>>> obvious splatter when doing a splatter test. (Holding the chainsaw
>>> vertically over a piece of newspaper and revving the engine should produce
>>> some noticeable splatter on the paper). Chain gets hot very quickly.
>>>
>>> Anyone taken one of these apart or know what the common faults are with
>>> cheap chainsaws? Before anyone says “should have bought a proper
>>> chainsaw!”, the Parkside has paid for itself many times over already in
>>> firewood and starts first time, every time.
>>>
>>> My next chainsaw will probably be a “proper” one but I’m loath to replace
>>> the Parkside whilst it still runs so well.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Are you using proper chain saw oil?
>
> Yep.
>
>>
>> Have you checked the feed pipe / hole isn’t blocked by sawdust etc?
>
> Difficult as the oil supply never gets near empty. I guess I could drain
> it out and have a look but I’m pretty careful when filling.
>

The fact it isn’t being used makes me suspect a blockage.

I have a two chain saws, both use half a tank in a few hours use.

Check the feed from the tank to the chain, I’d expect the chain end to get
blocked - especially if cutting conifers etc.

[AJH]

On 21/12/2021 22:28, Brian wrote:
> Have you checked the feed pipe / hole isn’t blocked by sawdust etc? We had
> some trees taken down by a tree surgeon and, part way through, he needed to
> change saws while one has cleaned- the oil feed was blocked- by his
> colleague.

I'm not familiar with your saw, but mainly Stihl and Husqvarna; If the
pump isn't damaged and the strainer in the oil tank not blocked then
sometime the tube between the tank filter and pump gets blocked. They
are normally difficult to get at and will require the clutch to be
removed, there may be a plastic wormwheel that has failed.

[Brian]

With clean oil, unless you let muck / debris into the tank, the obvious
place for a blockage is near the chain, where there is saw dust, resin,
dust, ….etc

The chain looks lubricated but the isn’t oil splashing around.

[Tim+]

I’ve checked the chain bar end and cleaned all the holes and slots in the
bar. The issue is that it just barely dribbles from the oil outlet (which
isn’t blocked).

[Brian]

I’ve never checked the flow - as in watch it dribble vs gush- I just know
roughly how much it uses in a session.

Why do you think it should spray about? Even when my chain saws were new (
one isn’t that old), there was never a lot of oil about- just a light
coating on the chain. Two much and I would expect it to get clogged up with
saw dust etc.

Are you sure it isn’t using oil from the tank?

[The Natural Philosopher]

Modern saws certainly spray less.

The only spare part I found for that saws oil pump was the worm drive
for the oil pump, and that was shipped from China via ALI express.

At some level you have to ask whether if its broken beyond use, its
worth repairing at all.


--
Truth welcomes investigation because truth knows investigation will lead
to converts. It is deception that uses all the other techniques.

[Tim Lamb]

In message
<1076407849.661870184.345...@news.individual.net>,
Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> writes

AJH is the expert on this. My experience is that fuel and oil reservoirs
are sized such that both empty together.

--
Tim Lamb

[The Natural Philosopher]

My experience is that the fuel runs out twice as fast as the oil

On both my Stihls, from new until end of life



--
There’s a mighty big difference between good, sound reasons and reasons
that sound good.

Burton Hillis (William Vaughn, American columnist)

[Tim Lamb]

In message <sq1gq1$u01$2...@dont-email.me>, The Natural Philosopher
<t...@invalid.invalid> writes

You certainly don't want the oil to run out first!

My little McCulloch seems to need more oil than fuel leading to having
to replace a couple of chains recently. Curious that the chain bearing
surface wear leads to tilt which must put more load on the already worn
surface.

--
Tim Lamb

[Tim+]

Hmm,

Had a closer look and the oil outlet is discharging in brief fits and
starts and blowing bubbles so I think there must be an air leak somewhere.
The problem is getting to it! I’ve drained to tank but the filter isn’t
accessible without major disassembly

It looks like I have to start with removing the clutch but that’s easier
said than done.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dWpKofwoBEhKfDQR8

It looks like it’s just a press-fit on to the crankshaft as I can’t find
any other securing screws. The end of the shaft definitely isn’t threaded.

I do have a puller but as the only thing to hook the puller onto is the
back of the pressed steel clutch “drum”, I’m wary of giving it too much
welly. Maybe I just need to be braver?

If it does just pull off, I’m not sure how I’ll refit it short of a bit of
careful hammer work as the other end of the crank isn’t accessible to apply
any counter-pressure to if I wanted to press it on.

Any thoughts?

[Tim+]

Because that’s what the manual says.

> Even when my chain saws were new (
> one isn’t that old), there was never a lot of oil about- just a light
> coating on the chain. Two much and I would expect it to get clogged up with
> saw dust etc.
>
> Are you sure it isn’t using oil from the tank?
>
>

Yep. I’ve used a couple of tanks of fuel and the oil reservoir has hardly
dropped. Used to use about two to three tanks of fuel to one of oil.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I found that I got tilt when the chain was blunt. When its fresh and
sharp - and that's about every other tankful, it just walks through the
wood without needing any pressure



--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

[Johann Klammer]

When they stand for a while, the oil tends to solidify.
You may have to disassemble and clean out the pump.
(That Elm tree I cut down a few Years ago I couldn't have cut had the clutch not gummed up. hehe)

[newshound]

Doesn't "Off" suggests that it's a left hand thread, on the Y-shaped
bit. IIRC there was something very similar in my Ryobi petrol model, I
had to shock-load it because there was no easy way of applying a torque
reaction. Well, I suppose I could have taken the plug out and shoved a
wooden stick down the plug hole.

[Tim Lamb]

In message
<1195950124.661952383.908...@news.individual.net>,
Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> writes

Somewhere on line, there will be an exploded parts diagram. The clutch
could be threaded on to the crank shaft. That big arrow might be a sign
but don't sue me if you break something:-)

--
Tim Lamb

[newshound]

I've not managed to find one for mine. But as I just said, I'd bet on
the clutch being screwed on to the crank shaft, and not particularly
tight since the drive motion will keep it tensioned against its stop.

[The Natural Philosopher]

That is the recommended method
--
Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog it's
too dark to read.

Groucho Marx

[Tim+]

Good point! Almost certainly.

> IIRC there was something very similar in my Ryobi petrol model, I
> had to shock-load it because there was no easy way of applying a torque
> reaction. Well, I suppose I could have taken the plug out and shoved a
> wooden stick down the plug hole.

Could put oil in cylinder and put the plug back in.

[newshound]

An option, but a sharp hammer tap using a suitable drift was all that it
needed.

[Tim+]

newshound <sradcl...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 23/12/2021 15:10, Tim+ wrote:

>>>>
>>> Doesn't "Off" suggests that it's a left hand thread, on the Y-shaped
>>> bit.
>>
>> Good point! Almost certainly.
>>
>>> IIRC there was something very similar in my Ryobi petrol model, I
>>> had to shock-load it because there was no easy way of applying a torque
>>> reaction. Well, I suppose I could have taken the plug out and shoved a
>>> wooden stick down the plug hole.
>>
>> Could put oil in cylinder and put the plug back in.
>>
>> Tim
>>
> An option, but a sharp hammer tap using a suitable drift was all that it
> needed.
>

I tried whacking with a drift and hammer but no joy.

Good news though is that I got an impact driver as an early Christmas
present and with the aid of a hacked up socket, the clutch spun off the
shaft!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hpCLd7Pvy9wjfZ59A


https://photos.app.goo.gl/RW161g4WV7zpZ2Ts6

Now to start investigating further…

[Brian]

That seems reasonable then ;-)

>
>> Even when my chain saws were new (
>> one isn’t that old), there was never a lot of oil about- just a light
>> coating on the chain. Two much and I would expect it to get clogged up with
>> saw dust etc.
>>
>> Are you sure it isn’t using oil from the tank?
>>
>>
>
> Yep. I’ve used a couple of tanks of fuel and the oil reservoir has hardly
> dropped. Used to use about two to three tanks of fuel to one of oil.
>
> Tim
>

Mine are both electric. From memory a tank lasts a perhaps couple of hours
intermittent use.

[newshound]

Great, please keep posting then I can decide whether to attack mine!

[Tim+]

I got the pump out and after finding one on Amazon for £3.99 delivered
tomorrow, it seems daft not to replace it. ;-)

Not sure how they do it at that price. The cheapest on eBay was about £8
and delivery is about 3 weeks. The Chinese ones do come with hoses and a
new filter too and I may regret going “cheap” but it’s hardly gonna break
the bank.

[AJH]

On 23/12/2021 19:56, Tim+ wrote:
>
>>> I tried whacking with a drift and hammer but no joy.
>>>
>>> Good news though is that I got an impact driver as an early Christmas
>>> present and with the aid of a hacked up socket, the clutch spun off the
>>> shaft!

Well done


>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/hpCLd7Pvy9wjfZ59A
>>>
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/RW161g4WV7zpZ2Ts6

That looks like a copy of the Husqvarna type

>
> I got the pump out and after finding one on Amazon for £3.99 delivered
> tomorrow, it seems daft not to replace it. ;-)
>
> Not sure how they do it at that price. The cheapest on eBay was about £8
> and delivery is about 3 weeks. The Chinese ones do come with hoses and a
> new filter too and I may regret going “cheap” but it’s hardly gonna break
> the bank.

Well at least blow back through the hose and see if it is clear. What I
have seen is that a plug of fine sawdust forms in the flexible pipe, and
can be kneaded out along the pipe if an air line is not available.

On Husqvarnas there is a screw with a conical end that determines the
stroke length of the oil plunger, the cam retracts the piston and the
spring pushes the oil out.

[AJH]

As a post script that appears to be an Einhell saw, designed in Germany
and made in china for the likes of Spear and Jackson as well as Aldi. I
have one that a customer asked my chainsaw dealer to dispose of as it
was "unsafe", dealer declined but as I was at the counter I took it off
the chap's hands. It just needed a new chain.

It's not a bad saw but a bit gutless and the oil tank does run out
sooner than the petroil. Stihl MS180 is probably a better cheap saw from
new.

It's in the shed with about a half dozen that I have repaired and the
owners never collected them.

[Tim+]

It’s this pump.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BLRQSTC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_36R8H1ZR4M74DHYTSDWP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Probably gonna be crap but worth a shot. Will certainly be back-flushing
oil lines and filter first.

When this one dies for good I’ll almost certainly invest in a Stihl but
given that it always starts first time and owes me nothing, it seems
disloyal to ditch it if a repair is easy. ;-)

[AJH]

On 23/12/2021 21:15, Tim+ wrote:

>>
>
> It’s this pump.
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BLRQSTC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_36R8H1ZR4M74DHYTSDWP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>
> Probably gonna be crap but worth a shot. Will certainly be back-flushing
> oil lines and filter first.
>

That is similar to the Husqvarna, it's the plastic/nylon worm drive that
turns the pump plunger that normally fails.

Where does it say that fits your saw?

[Tim+]

I gambling that as it looks almost exactly like mine it’s gonna work.
Despite my misgivings over the price, it’s actually been dispatched. Half
expected a follow up email telling me it was gonna have to come from China.

Hopefully I’ll be able to confirm tomorrow whether it fits or not.

[newshound]

On 23/12/2021 21:15, Tim+ wrote:

Interesting. Not quite the same as my Ryobi although the plastic bit
looks similar. IIRC the genuine replacement was around £20.

One more project to add to the list (although TBH for the limited use
mine gets, I might just stick with a can of spray).

[Tim+]

Somewhat embarrassed to admit that the oil that I drained from the tank
that *looked* clean on first inspection, wasn’t. After a night settling in
a glass bowl it was clear that there was a lot of fine dust in the oil. I
thought I’d been really careful when topping up the oil but obviously not.

I’ve now flushed and rinsed the whole system with white spirit and got more
out of the filter so it was probably just a blocked filter all along.

Just for fun I put the white spirit through a coffee filter…

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGzCWCEWHZ1XJy6bA

So, at the end of the day, the new pump might prove to be superfluous but I
couldn’t have accessed all the lines without all the disassembly.

[newshound]

Another point is that the "green" vegetable oil recommended for
chainsaws will of course degrade more rapidly than mineral oil by
oxidation and/or polymerisation. That will typically lead to deposits.
If it is well formulated, it should not "break" your chainsaw but there
are competing design choices. Things like engine oils use detergents as
dispersants but these may not be green enough. Professional users have
plenty of oil through-flow and won't have bottles of oil hanging around
in sheds for months or years like most of us do.

[Tim+]

Well despite my misgivings, the pump arrived today (only ordered at 5 pm
yesterday!) and fits just fine. Everything reassembled and for the first
time in ages, my chainsaw passes the “splatter test” so I’m very happy. So
happy I treated it to a new chain too. ;-)

Next time I’ll just try flushing all the lines first (now that I know how
to get at them and have the tools to remove the clutch).

[newshound]

RESULT!

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 24/12/2021 16:42, Tim+ wrote:

> Well despite my misgivings, the pump arrived today (only ordered at 5 pm
> yesterday!) and fits just fine. Everything reassembled and for the first
> time in ages, my chainsaw passes the “splatter test” so I’m very happy. So
> happy I treated it to a new chain too.;-)

And a happy Christmas tuit and any other round tuits sneaking a bit of
usenet before the rest begins

--
"And if the blind lead the blind, both shall fall into the ditch".

Gospel of St. Mathew 15:14