Painting and brush marks
James Salisbury
What are the best ways of preventing brush marks? I am not expecting
perfection the windows are covered in orange undercoat, I am intending to
use Crown Satin Solo.
Harry Bloomfield
> What are the best ways of preventing brush marks? I am not expecting
> perfection the windows are covered in orange undercoat, I am intending to
> use Crown Satin Solo.
Prepare the area to be painted then do not spend too much time
repeatedly brushing the same area. If the paint is left still
reasonably wet, the brush marks will sort themselves out. Paint the
most difficult bits first. If you intend to use two coats, genrally
brush the first one on at right angles to what will be your final coat.
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Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org
Michael McNeil
news:mesnews.1d4e7d44....@tiscali.co.uk
> James Salisbury brought next idea :
> > What are the best ways of preventing brush marks? I am not expecting
> > perfection the windows are covered in orange undercoat, I am intending to
> > use Crown Satin Solo.
> Prepare the area to be painted then do not spend too much time
> repeatedly brushing the same area. If the paint is left still
> reasonably wet, the brush marks will sort themselves out. Paint the
> most difficult bits first. If you intend to use two coats, genrally
> brush the first one on at right angles to what will be your final coat.
If the top coat isn't orange or something suited to the base coat, then
it will grin through. You may need to apply a suitable undercoat and/or
obscure the orange with a more suitable colour. If that is the case, try
adding a little orange to the undercoat. It works as a blind,
homeopathically as it were.
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The Natural Philosopher
Get a fine hair brush from a model shop, not a shed. Get the paint on
fast and brush it out just enough and no more. If it doesn't cover in
one coart, sand and reapply a second.
The Natural Philosopher
>
> If the top coat isn't orange or something suited to the base coat, then
> it will grin through. You may need to apply a suitable undercoat and/or
> obscure the orange with a more suitable colour. If that is the case, try
> adding a little orange to the undercoat. It works as a blind,
> homeopathically as it were.
>
Yeerrs.
I did a little treatise in a modelling group abount painting...
It bears repaeting, and, if wrong, correcting...so comment away.
(i) Basic surface preparation. When painting anything the first theing
to do is to get the surface smooth and mecahnically stable. We do this
by ssanding off high spots, filling dents, and sometimes use of things
like knotting or stopping were there is a problem such as resmous knots
in wood. The purpose of this stage is to get a smooth mechanically
stable surface.
(ii) Priming. What priming does is to generate a layer that seals and
prtotects the surface, and adheres well to it, and also will adhere to
the paint. It may also have serve the function of providing an even
better and smoother surface. Its often true that for a class finish
several layesr of primer rubbded down between may be used.
(iii) Undercoat. This is there to provide the reflective layer that
generates MOST of the colours, especially in gloss paints.
(iv) top coat. This is the tough surface latyer, that is pigmented as
much as is possible whilst still allowing the paint to form a
prtoetctive film. Gloss paints typically carry rtather less pigments
than matt, so what uyou actually get is pigment encased in a lump of
plastic film. The plastic film gibeves the gloss, the pigment gives the
color, but gloss is not good at color - a matching undercoat isvery
important with gloss.
(v) protective lacquer. Often specialised painst like metallics cannot
both get the color effect and protect the surface in one go. Here is its
common practice to apply a protective lacquer after painting.
This is the classic 5 layer model. Some piants on some surfaces work at
tow or more layers...sort of. But top class results use at least 4, if
not 5 levels of preparation.
Anyone who wants to hit my other half for suggesting that 'surely
painting is easier than using natural wood and staining' may do so at my
pleasure. The oh so cheap T & G pine in teh bathroom took about a week
plus to do properly, and now of course its shrinking and showing white
gaps in the grooves..and of course brush marks. I prefer sparying
wherever possible.
>
>
N. Thornton
Thanks for a nice explanation there.
Regards, NT
Jerry Built
> What are the best ways of preventing brush marks? I am not
> expecting perfection the windows are covered in orange
> undercoat, I am intending to use Crown Satin Solo.
Change your mind quick and use some proper paint. Apply one
or two coats of "oil" undercoat, and very lightly rub down
with fine paper. Apply a thin gloss coat (such as Dulux
"trade"). The trouble with one-coat or non-drip paints is
that they contain thickeners which make it hard to apply
properly - they're aimed at the splodge-on DIY market,
rather than the DIY market of class and refinement like
what this is. If you need to cover a large flat surface
then use a roller, and lay off with a brush afterwards.
--
J.B.
