Best fixings for plasterboard walls and ceilings?
Gareth
Fischer Plasterboard Plugs LDF and HDF
Rawlplug Unu
Fischer High Performance Universal Plugs
Then there are more complex looking things like:
Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings, metal and plastic
Spring toggles
Metal Plasterboard Anchors
I've seen a few of the regular posters in here recommending Rawlplug Uno
but are any of the plugs designed specifically for plasterboard any
better and are the more complex things worth it for heavier items - I
imagine that plasterboard itself isn't very strong so a stronger fixing
can only help a little though I suppose the spring toggles spread the
load a bit but even so...
These things also seem to be classified as light, medium and heavy with
little indication of what is considered light, medium or heavy which
doesn't seem very helpful.
Any advice greatly appreciated, e.g. would you trust a couple of
Rawlplug Unos to keep a bathroom cabinet on a plasterboard wall?
Thanks,
Gareth
NT
I wouldnt trust 2 of anything to keep a cabinet up. Plasterboard isnt
that strong. Some people here have far more faith in it than I though.
Fixings not designed for plasterboard are unusable on PB. Your best
bet is locate the vertical stud and screw into that.
NT
Gareth
My last house was all brick and since moving into this house (all brick
downstairs, plasterboard upstairs) I have actually found PB to be
stronger than I expected, but then I haven't put anything heavy on any
of the PB walls yet.
> Fixings not designed for plasterboard are unusable on PB.
> Your best
> bet is locate the vertical stud and screw into that.
Of course that's the answer I didn't want :(
>
> NT
Thanks for your reply.
Newshound
detectors or a small surface mount or pendant light as long as the shade
isn't too heavy. The metal ones screw in a bit more reliably but you
need exactly the right sized screw, whereas the plastic ones are more
tolerant. Quicker and less fiddly than toggles, and re-useable.
Dave Liquorice
> Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings, metal and plastic
Seem to work, not used them myself but have found a few here. Alright
for light loads like a picture...
> Spring toggles
The toggle falls down the void should you ever have to remove the
screw...
> Metal Plasterboard Anchors
I like these when set they spread the load of over a reasonable area
of plaster board. The stay in the board when you remove the screw.
Take good loads.
> I imagine that plasterboard itself isn't very strong ...
Depends on the direction of the load. It's pretty good in compression
but weak in tension. So things that are pulling will make it bend and
over time deform permanently(*). If you can arrange the fixings so
the load is down the PB, ie it's trying to shear the fixing rather
than pull/push it through the PB it's surprisingly strong.
> These things also seem to be classified as light, medium and heavy with
> little indication of what is considered light, medium or heavy which
> doesn't seem very helpful.
Rawplug give a maximum load on the packaging as well as light medium,
heavy.
> would you trust a couple of Rawlplug Unos to keep a bathroom cabinet on
> a plasterboard wall?
Donno not used 'em I have a stock of yellow, red and brown plugs and
metal wall anchors for use in PB. I'd use the metal wall anchors
simply 'cause I have 'em and know how they behave.
(*) 9.5mm plaster board used with normal ceiling joist spacing will
sag under it's own weight between the joists.
--
Cheers
Dave.
brass monkey
"Gareth" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:NbSdnflfxO5Zu7LT...@brightview.co.uk...
I've held one up with 4 of these -
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9281502&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372015}/categories%3C{9372044}/categories%3C{9372213}/specificationsProductType=specialist_screws/specificationsSpecificProductType=self_drilling_screws
it's still up.
NT
PB seems reasonably strong at first, the trouble is over time there is
a tendency for the edge in contact with the fixing to slowly
disintegrate. And it can distort under load. To fix a bathroom cab,
personally I'd use a fair few fixings, with 6 you should be ok long
term.
NT
Lobster
> On Jul 26, 9:42 pm, Gareth<m...@privacy.net> wrote:
>> Any advice greatly appreciated, e.g. would you trust a couple of
>> Rawlplug Unos to keep a bathroom cabinet on a plasterboard wall?
> I wouldnt trust 2 of anything to keep a cabinet up. Plasterboard isnt
> that strong. Some people here have far more faith in it than I though.
> Fixings not designed for plasterboard are unusable on PB. Your best
> bet is locate the vertical stud and screw into that.
I've put one up in the past successfully by positioning the cabinet so
that just one (vertical) pair of screws went into a stud; these were
backed up with plasterboard fixings in the corners, but the weight of
the cabinet was borne by the solid fixings into the stud.
That method at least gives you are reasonable position range along the
wall to place the cabinet; the usual problem being that the studs are
never located where you (or more likely, SWMBO :( ) would like them to be.
David
Roger Mills
This is what you need for a bathroom cabinet:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hollow-wall-anchor-5-x-52mm-8-16mm-pack-of-10/12229
Easier to fit if you also buy the setting tool, but can be done without.
Use two of these in the top corners and use two more to hold a batten on
the wall for the bottom of the cabinet to sit on. The weight will be
taken by the bottom fixings - in shear - in the top fixings (in tension)
only have to prevent it from tilting forwards.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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fred
Contrary to most views expressed her plasterboard is quite strong as
long as the load is mainained in the vertical so any fixings used must
ne kept tight to the surface. Once the load varies from the vertical
towards the horizontal they will fail.
We have used both the metal and nylon coarse screw type fixings
(Fischer type GK) to hold up a variety of cupboards with success.
However our referred fitting now is the Fischer HM type set with their
proprietory tool.
If you google around you will find Fischer load tables for their
various types of fixings.
As I say as long as you keep the loading vertical you will have little
to fear.
Paul Mc Cann
Gareth
> I'm baffled by the huge array of fixings for use on plasterboard walls,
Thanks for all the replies.
Gareth.
Jim K
news:99a3n8...@mid.individual.net...
<snip>
>
> This is what you need for a bathroom cabinet:
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/hollow-wall-anchor-5-x-52mm-8-16mm-pack-of-10/12229
>
> Easier to fit if you also buy the setting tool, but can be done without.
>
> Use two of these in the top corners and use two more to hold a batten on
> the wall for the bottom of the cabinet to sit on. The weight will be taken
> by the bottom fixings - in shear - in the top fixings (in tension) only
> have to prevent it from tilting forwards.
why bother with an ugly batten? it adds nothing ...
Jim K
Jim K
"fred" <tpmc...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2d8dde70-c65a-446a...@r18g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
Contrary to most views expressed her plasterboard is quite strong as
long as the load is mainained in the vertical so any fixings used must
ne kept tight to the surface. Once the load varies from the vertical
towards the horizontal they will fail.
We have used both the metal and nylon coarse screw type fixings
(Fischer type GK) to hold up a variety of cupboards with success.
However our referred fitting now is the Fischer HM type set with their
proprietory tool.
If you google around you will find Fischer load tables for their
various types of fixings.
As I say as long as you keep the loading vertical you will have little
to fear.
Paul Mc Cann
+1 for pb strength
(tho not necessarily +1 for "Fischer" brand fixings - there are loads of
cheaper alternatives out there).
Jim K