How to attach a wire rope to a tree?
NoSpam
can I get straps or something else to give an attachment on the trees?
(I asked this earlier but it was buried in another thread)
Dave Osborne
You have a few options, dependant on what you're using the wire rope
for, whether it is permanent or temporary, how you plan to tension the
rope, etc.
Can you give us more info describing what you're trying to achieve?
NoSpam
The idea is to stretch a s/s rope between 2 trees so that it's parallel
to the front of the garage, then to run 2 more ropes back from it to the
corners of the garage, then to attach awning fabric to the second wires
to form a cover over the drive.
The attachment needs to be semi-permanent and to not damage the trees
(one has a TPO).
The span between the trees is about 8m, the other two will be 6m'ish.
Tensioning will probably be with turn-buckles.
All suggestions gratefully received!
Cicero
==============================================================================
Webbing belts from an army surplus outlet would probably do the job but
you might need to make up some kind of harness with 'D' rings etc.
It would be wise to make it possible to furl or otherwise dismount the
awning fabric which could possibly damage your garage in a high wind.
Cic.
--
===============================================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===============================================================================
Dave Osborne
Well, if you don't protect the tree from the rope, it will dig into the
bark. You could protect the tree by threading the rope through a piece
of polythene tube.
Ratchet tensioners (or strainers) for wire fencing are cheap and might
be useful:
http://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/security-fencing/type/wire-fencing-accessories.aspx
NoSpam
Hmm, if it would be sufficient to just put the wire through some poly
pipe it would overcome the concern about a webbing strap rotting.
I like the ratchet tensioner idea. I could run the wire over a pulley at
one end and then down to a tensioner at ground level - easy to adjust
and less metal lumps up in the sky.
Dave Liquorice
> Well, if you don't protect the tree from the rope, it will dig into the
> bark. You could protect the tree by threading the rope through a piece
> of polythene tube.
That will dig in overtime as well, in fact pretty much anything will.
How fast this happens depends on the tree, some have bark so soft
that looking at it hard will damage it, Larch is terribly soft.
IIRC one of these trees is a Walnut I've not tried attacking the bark
of Walnut but it is hardwood and in my mind most hardwood trees have
tough bark as well.
Think I'd look at broad webbing or lifting strops. Strops would have
ready made eyes in the ends to put a shackle through to attach the SS
wire. Webbing might need the attention of someone with an industrial
sewing machine.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Dave Osborne
Yes, you're probably right, but there's the consideration of UV. Webbing
or lifting strops will spread the load, but they will deteriorate with
time unless black (i.e. the UV stable kind of black). At any rate, they
will go green with moss/algae.
Andy Champ
>
> Yes, you're probably right, but there's the consideration of UV. Webbing
> or lifting strops will spread the load, but they will deteriorate with
> time unless black (i.e. the UV stable kind of black). At any rate, they
> will go green with moss/algae.
Green webbing in a tree? That would be a disaster wouldn't it!
Webbing should be good for a few years. Whether the trees will take the
loads is another matter - wind pressures can easily be several pounds
per square foot, even in a sheltered area (sorry, I don't know that in
metric!) and a lateral force on a taut wire will be multiplied many
fold. I wouldn't be surprised to see several tonnes pulling the wire,
which might take them up by the roots.
Andy
Dave Liquorice
> Yes, you're probably right, but there's the consideration of UV. Webbing
> or lifting strops will spread the load, but they will deteriorate with
> time unless black (i.e. the UV stable kind of black).
I doubt decent quality webbing strops will deteriorate all that
quickly. They are after all generally used outdoors and your
situation is under trees, in the shade.
> At any rate, they will go green with moss/algae.
Like what is already growing on the tree trunk?
--
Cheers
Dave.
dennis@home
"Andy Champ" <no....@nospam.invalid> wrote in message
news:_LednVzIiqmjdznR...@eclipse.net.uk...
> On 30/09/2010 20:09, Dave Osborne wrote:
>>
>> Yes, you're probably right, but there's the consideration of UV. Webbing
>> or lifting strops will spread the load, but they will deteriorate with
>> time unless black (i.e. the UV stable kind of black). At any rate, they
>> will go green with moss/algae.
>
> Green webbing in a tree? That would be a disaster wouldn't it!
>
> Webbing should be good for a few years. Whether the trees will take the
> loads is another matter - wind pressures can easily be several pounds per
> square foot, even in a sheltered area (sorry, I don't know that in
> metric!)
several tens of kg or several hundreds of newtons per square meter.
> and a lateral force on a taut wire will be multiplied many fold. I
> wouldn't be surprised to see several tonnes pulling the wire, which might
> take them up by the roots.
I expect the wall fixings would go first.
andrew
> On 30/09/2010 20:09, Dave Osborne wrote:
>>
>> Yes, you're probably right, but there's the consideration of UV. Webbing
>> or lifting strops will spread the load, but they will deteriorate with
>> time unless black (i.e. the UV stable kind of black). At any rate, they
>> will go green with moss/algae.
>
> Green webbing in a tree? That would be a disaster wouldn't it!
Proper stuff is cobra, black stuff that is assembled with a weave that
tightens the joint when tensioned and but the tree could push the loop out
as it expanded. It was too new fangled for me, we used lag eyes (coach
screws with eyes welded on) or through bolts with diamond washers.
Walnut doesn't respond well to wounds.
Beating it allegedly shocks the tree into thinking it's on its way out and
reacting by fruiting prolifically.
AJH
TMC
"andrew" <ne...@sylva.icuklive.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8gka4v...@mid.individual.net...
An almost off topic thought but where will all the water go?
I would have thought that with only 2 ropes front to back at approx the same
height the awning will collect water so the fixings for these ropes to the
wire rope will also be interesting
Jeweller
> NoSpam wrote:
>> Dave Osborne wrote:
>>> NoSpam wrote:
>>>> I need to attach a s/s wire rope between a couple of big trees -
>>>> where can I get straps or something else to give an attachment on
>>>> the trees?
> Well, if you don't protect the tree from the rope, it will dig into the
> bark. You could protect the tree by threading the rope through a piece
> of polythene tube.
While researching tree houses I remember reading that drilling through
the tree and fixing an eye-bolt (?)with a nut at the far side did far
less damage to the tree than wrapping something (part way) round it.
--
R100RT
Aprilia Pegaso 650 IE "The Flying Mythos"
Formerly: James Captain, A10, C15, B25, Dnepr M16 solo, R80/7, R100RT
(green!)
www.davidhowardjeweller.co.uk
NoSpam
The inter-tree rope will be higher than the attachments at the garage so
there'll be significant front-back fall ... but I'd rather find a fine
mesh fabric to reduce the noise and let some of the water through.
The Medway Handyman
Use a lifting sling around the tree
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/Lashes+Rope+Straps/Cargo+Sling+1+ton+3M/d60/sd470/p45395
'D' shackle through the loops onto turnbuckle.
Or just loop a ratchet strap around tree & use that to tension rope -
depends how pretty you want it.
Just a thought - you have a 48 sw/m sail there :-) Hope it isn't a windy
location :-)
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
S Viemeister
>
> The inter-tree rope will be higher than the attachments at the garage so
> there'll be significant front-back fall ... but I'd rather find a fine
> mesh fabric to reduce the noise and let some of the water through.
That's what we used, after we found that the tent-type fabric sagged and
filled with water. We need it not so much for the bird cr*p, but for
the nuts themselves. Our tree is a black walnut, and some years, the
fruits are absolutely enormous - big enough and heavy enough to dent the
car - or one's head.
Spamlet
"NoSpam" <nom...@hursley.ibm.com> wrote in message
news:8gjuva...@mid.individual.net...
If your tree has a TPO you had better ask their tree officer for
advice/permission first, as no matter what you do they are bound not to like
it if they are not in from the start.
Unfortunately, in my experience council tree officers are all too chainsaw
happy, so you may even have to try and restrain them a bit if you really
don't want to harm the tree!
S
Spamlet
"Jeweller" <dgho...@GEEmail.com> wrote in message
news:027po.7469$f%.5137@newsfe08.ams2...
> On 30/09/2010 18:51, Dave Osborne wrote:
>> NoSpam wrote:
>>> Dave Osborne wrote:
>>>> NoSpam wrote:
>>>>> I need to attach a s/s wire rope between a couple of big trees -
>>>>> where can I get straps or something else to give an attachment on
>>>>> the trees?
>
>> Well, if you don't protect the tree from the rope, it will dig into the
>> bark. You could protect the tree by threading the rope through a piece
>> of polythene tube.
>
> While researching tree houses I remember reading that drilling through the
> tree and fixing an eye-bolt (?)with a nut at the far side did far less
> damage to the tree than wrapping something (part way) round it.
>
>
>
Funny how we screw stuff into indoor wood all the time but somehow balk at
outdoor stuff that can actually repair itself.
Anything wrapped around the bark is going to do more damage (and look naff)
than something screwed in to the heartwood. I have a small cherry tree in
the garden that was beginning to split down the middle from the Y shape it
had grown into. I put stainless 12mm rod through each limb and bolted a
board across the two to hold the tree together and make a platform to pick
the cherries from, at the same time. The natural resin soon fills the
holes, and, as the tree grows, the nuts will disappear inside the tree.
In this case the council will have to be asked for planning permission,
whatever the OP wants though.
S
Dave Liquorice
> The inter-tree rope will be higher than the attachments at the garage so
> there'll be significant front-back fall ...
And a gutter?
> but I'd rather find a fine mesh fabric to reduce the noise and let some
> of the water through.
And poo?
--
Cheers
Dave.
Dave Liquorice
> Use a lifting sling around the tree
> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/Lashes+Rope+Straps/Cargo+Sling+1+ton+3M/d60/sd470/p45395
Big tree that needs 3M sling... I was looking for slings the other
day but 3M is just too long 2M or 1.5m would be more like it for my
use. I suspect 1M would be fine to the OP.
--
Cheers
Dave.
NoSpam
This year seems to be a particularly good/bad (depending on perspective)
year for walnuts! What mesh did you use? Can you recall where you bought it?
Jules Richardson
>> ready made eyes in the ends to put a shackle through to attach the SS
>> wire. Webbing might need the attention of someone with an industrial
>> sewing machine.
>>
> Yes, you're probably right, but there's the consideration of UV. Webbing
> or lifting strops will spread the load, but they will deteriorate with
> time unless black (i.e. the UV stable kind of black). At any rate, they
> will go green with moss/algae.
Chains to spread the load? They'll last a lot longer. Maybe 4 chains per
tree, spaced about 6" apart (and possibly some pair-of-metal-bars
contrivance to hold them apart at that distance so they don't have a
tendency to creep together over time).
As spamlet says, whatever you do is probably a little unsightly.
I'd worry about water and debris (leaves, sticks etc.) collecting on top
of the canopy part, too; irritating to keep clearing, can add a
significant load, can cause problems if not periodically cleared etc.
I suppose you need PP for a car port or other proper structure, huh?
cheers
Jules
S Viemeister
I'll see if I can find the invoice. I got it from a US firm, but it's
light-weight and doesn't break, so shipping is cheap. It was sold as
shade fabric, for agricultural use.
The same firm also carry midge-proof netting, which I've used for window
screens to protect against the Dreaded Highland Midge.
GAP
Ape" organisation that run high level assault course in the trees,
attach ropes to trees all the time. What they do is surround the tree
trunk with a vertical bunch of small half round slats (about one and a
half inches across) probably lightly nailed to the tree while putting
it all together, and then run their support wires around the slats. I
tried to find a picture on their web site, but there's nothing
obvious. OTOH, they probably remove/replace/adjust their anchors on a
regular basis...
You could email them and ask for advice, I suppose.
Graham
NoSpam
AHA! Shade mesh brings-up lots of hits. Maybe this is the answer.
Many thanks - this group is wonderful!
NoSpam
Another great suggestion.
A length of poly pipe attached to a few hardwood slats would allow the
wire to run round the trunk without any further protection.
Coincidentally, number two son's girlfriend's sister works (or has
worked) at go ape! so I know who to ask.
NoSpam
The circumference of the main tree is just under 2m - but
slats+poly_pipe+rope looks like being the solution.
Spamlet
"S Viemeister" <firs...@lastname.oc.ku> wrote in message
news:8gkg17...@mid.individual.net...
Interesting: they get to be pretty big trees and the only place I've seen
many is Woburn Arboretum. I should think the big leaves would be quite a
weight too.
Did you manage to open any of the nuts? Curious three valved things as hard
as rock, but the kernels reputed to be good for walnut flavouring if you can
get at them!
S
S Viemeister
> "S Viemeister"<firs...@lastname.oc.ku> wrote
the American South, the standard method is lay them in the driveway,
then crack them by driving your pickup truck over them.
They dye my skin if I don't wear disposable gloves when picking them up.
The leaf form is pinnate, and the individual leaves aren't particularly big.
Spamlet
"S Viemeister" <firs...@lastname.oc.ku> wrote in message
With the ordinary walnut, when the skin turns black I used to keep some back
in meths as a handy stain. They certainly stain the fingers for a long
time, but if you have no squirrels they eventually fall out clean on their
own. I haven't seen the black walnut in leaf fall: didn't realise the
leaflets fell off the main leaf separately. Sounds like you have a nice
tree there. Glad you want to look after it.
Cheers,
S
S Viemeister
> With the ordinary walnut, when the skin turns black I used to keep some back
> in meths as a handy stain. They certainly stain the fingers for a long
> time, but if you have no squirrels they eventually fall out clean on their
> own. I haven't seen the black walnut in leaf fall: didn't realise the
> leaflets fell off the main leaf separately. Sounds like you have a nice
> tree there. Glad you want to look after it.
>
It's a constant struggle - my other half would be glad to see it cut down.