screwfix lap lighting

[Stephen]

Hello,

While flicking through the channels on the tv last night, I saw an
advert for Screwfix, that talked about L.A.P. products. Is LAP a
Screwfix own-brand or is it a brand it its own right?

I see SF sell LAP light bulbs and also LAP light fittings.

Here's just a couple of examples:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-candle-led-lamps-bc-2w-pack-of-4/6450h

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-1052a-anti-vandal-bulkhead-wall-light-black-60w/31250

Are LAP products any good or are they a budget brand?

Thanks,
Stephen.

[Bob Minchin]

JFGI
http://www.lapelec.co.uk/

[News]

In message <n48u6m$l6f$1...@dont-email.me>, Bob Minchin
<bob.minc...@YOURHATntlworld.com> writes

>Stephen wrote:
>>
>> Are LAP products any good or are they a budget brand?
>>

>JFGI
>http://www.lapelec.co.uk/

Not the same LAP? The LAP in the link is ex Lucas doing car stuff. The
Screwfix LAP stuff is not the same range. Not even the same company
logo.
--
Graeme

[Andy Burns]

Stephen wrote:

> Is LAP a Screwfix own-brand

Apart from the "man and dog mark-up merchants" on Amazon, everyone
selling LAP branded items (B&Q, Tradepoint, EXP Lighting) seems to be a
division of Kingfisher ...

[Chris French]

In message <0jGR1Lkf...@nospam.demon.co.uk>, News
<Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk> writes

Searching the web for some LAP instructions

For this, as it happens:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-slimline-floodlight-with-pir-black-20w/
3923h

Gives an address of Powersmith Ltd BA22 8RT, which is the same postcode
as Screwfix Head Office.......

The only places selling the stuff (other than random Ebay sellers) seems
to be Kingfisher group Companies. so yes, basically an own brand.

The stuff I've used is ok, nothing special, I wouldn't bother with
things like sockets etc. though. Cheap stuff isn't worth it for that
sort of thing.
--
Chris French

[ARW]

"Stephen" <re...@to.newsgroup.invalid> wrote in message
news:qcuf6btu2hujfmv9q...@4ax.com...

It's a budget brand.



--
Adam

[Mathew Newton]

On Wednesday, 9 December 2015 11:29:44 UTC, Chris French wrote:

> Searching the web for some LAP instructions
>
> For this, as it happens:
>
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-slimline-floodlight-with-pir-black-20w/
> 3923h
>
> Gives an address of Powersmith Ltd BA22 8RT, which is the same postcode
> as Screwfix Head Office.......

And they own the trademarks:

https://www.ipo.gov.uk/tmcase/Results/1/UK0002493885A
https://www.ipo.gov.uk/tmcase/Results/1/UK00002572531

Interestingly, in 2013 they seemingly wanted to branch out into 'Automatic Vending Machines' (but had their application opposed):

https://www.ipo.gov.uk/tmcase/Results/4/EU012110086

Mathew

[Roger Mills]

I assumed they had something to do with lap dancing! <g>
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

[Justin]

replying to Stephen, Justin wrote:
Lap unswitched double plug socket in SLATE with double USB outlets Worked for
six (6) months then STOPPED working. NOW 02.08.2017 Double plug socket in
SLATE is proving faulty with an intermittent RH switch. I have fifteen(15)
others so I'm crossing my fingers. I usually buy MK sockets ONLY, but MK
did/do not manufacture in SLATE.
BEWARE LAP luxury could prove a LAP financial LOSS

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/screwfix-lap-lighting-1093448-.htm

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

On 02/08/2017 14:44, Justin wrote:
> replying to Stephen, Justin wrote:

HOMEOWNERSHUB

Any of the more worldy wise folks know of a way I can get rid of these
pesky homeownershub bot-responder responders from appearing in Thunderbird?

I've tried setting a filter to delete and ignore any message with
"homeowners.com" in the body but it doesn't appear to work with text
that follows the signature block indicator.

Any ideas?

Cheers
Pete

[alan_m]

Possibly not being rejected because it isn't "homeowners.com" - you have
left off the hub bit.


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

[John Rumm]

On 02/08/2017 15:13, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

Try filtering on the "Organization: Newsgroupdirect" header.


--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

[Brian Gaff]

The problem only seems to occur for me if the reply was from inside Usenet.
To be fair, though misguided and often out of date, some posts are quite
genuine and it is really the fault of the site admin that they fail to get
their interface right or indeed inform their users they are in fact posting
outside the web site.
Brian

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"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" <0845.86...@GymRatZ.Gym.Equipment> wrote in message
news:olsmfb$pp9$1...@dont-email.me...

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

On 02/08/2017 15:40, alan_m wrote:

> Possibly not being rejected because it isn't "homeowners.com" - you have
> left off the hub bit.

Typo.
:)

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

On 02/08/2017 16:40, John Rumm wrote:

>> I've tried setting a filter to delete and ignore any message with
>> "homeowners.com" in the body but it doesn't appear to work with text
>> that follows the signature block indicator.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>
> Try filtering on the "Organization: Newsgroupdirect" header.

Thanks John,
I've added "custom" header as you suggest. It's not deleted existing
entries but I'll see what happens. If nothing else I've just learnt
something new about tweaking Thunderbird.
:)

Cheers - Pete

[Thomas Prufer]

On Thu, 3 Aug 2017 08:25:59 +0100, "Brian Gaff" <bri...@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:

>To be fair, though misguided and often out of date, some posts are quite
>genuine and it is really the fault of the site admin that they fail to get
>their interface right or indeed inform their users they are in fact posting
>outside the web site.

Not a fault -- it's plan!

They use the newsfeed to populate their sorry forum thing, probably to make
money from clicks and advertising.


Thomas Prufer

[John Rumm]

On 03/08/2017 08:25, Brian Gaff wrote:
> The problem only seems to occur for me if the reply was from inside Usenet.
> To be fair, though misguided and often out of date, some posts are quite
> genuine and it is really the fault of the site admin that they fail to get
> their interface right or indeed inform their users they are in fact posting
> outside the web site.

Indeed, some of the responses etc are fine...

The main issue on that particular site is that in addition to showing
all the current discussion threads, it also promotes a series of
supposedly "best rated" threads. Many of which are very old.

So for the majority of us accessing via usenet servers which expire
older threads, we just get the disembodied responses to long dead
threads. It would not be so bad if they set their software to actually
quote the original message automatically rather than requiring the user
to do it manually - at least we could then see the context without
needing to go hunting for it.

[Dave Liquorice]

On Thu, 03 Aug 2017 11:55:37 +0200, Thomas Prufer wrote:

> They use the newsfeed to populate their sorry forum thing, probably to
> make money from clicks and advertising.

No probably about it.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[alan_m]

On 03/08/2017 13:12, John Rumm wrote:

> It would not be so bad if they set their software to actually
> quote the original message automatically rather than requiring the user
> to do it manually - at least we could then see the context without
> needing to go hunting for it.
>

With their sister motoring site you cannot even guess at the location of
the original question to go hunting as the linked web page _always_
points to the same decade old post about a Fiat Punto :(

The site also seems hides the quoted material users of the Usenet
provide so if someone on this group replied to half a dozen separate
points in a single posts and puts each into context with the relevant
quoting the user on home owners hub doesn't necessarily see this quoted
text.

[Rob]

replying to Stephen, Rob wrote:
What outside cable should I buy for A LAP Slimline 1435p flodlight sorry to
hijack this posts I can not find my answer anywhere robd...@btinternet.com
kind Regards please help

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Friday, 25 August 2017 13:14:07 UTC+1, Rob wrote:

> What outside cable should I buy for A LAP Slimline 1435p flodlight sorry to
> hijack this posts I can not find my answer anywhere

> kind Regards please help

Assuming it's a mains one, 1 square mm T&E. But if you don't know that you proably need to learn other things too re wiring it up.
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Category:Electrical

Sticking your email addy all over the web isn't the smartest.


NT

[John Rumm]

On 25/08/2017 13:14, Rob wrote:

> replying to Stephen, Rob wrote:
> What outside cable should I buy for A LAP Slimline 1435p flodlight sorry to
> hijack this posts I can not find my answer anywhere

It depends on where its being installed, and where the power for it is
coming from. On an outside wall with power being fed through a hole from
the other side, normal twin and earth cable should be ok. If you need a
long run of surface wiring that is going to be in a more vulnerable
position, then you may want to consider using conduit, or a more robust
cable.

Also depending on how the cable entry is designed on the lamp, you may
find it favours a round flex rather than a flat cable. If this is the
case then using s suitable junction box close to the lamp to allow you
to transition to flex might be worthwhile.

Some options:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Taking_electricity_outside#Sub_main_design

[Scott]

I was given some 1 sq mm T&E by a 'contact'. I see it is rated 16A so
could be used to charge an electric car let alone power a light.

[Stephen Blakemore]

replying to Stephen, Stephen Blakemore wrote:
I bought a L A P L E D sensor light from Screwfix last week and having sensor
problems. Took the light back to Screwfix thinking that the sensor was faulty,
only to find that the replacement light is doing exactly the same thing. Set
the light up in my garage and 10 minutes later when i open my garage door, the
light is on????? Any ideas?????? Followed all the instructions. Such a shame
because the light is perfect for what i want it for, if i could only get the
sensor to work properly.

[alan_m]

On 04/03/2018 15:14, Stephen Blakemore wrote:
> replying to Stephen, Stephen Blakemore wrote:
> I bought a L A P  L E D sensor light from Screwfix last week and having
> sensor
> problems. Took the light back to Screwfix thinking that the sensor was
> faulty,
> only to find that the replacement light is doing exactly the same thing.
> Set
> the light up in my garage and 10 minutes later when i open my garage
> door, the
> light is on????? Any ideas?????? Followed all the instructions. Such a
> shame
> because the light is perfect for what i want it for, if i could only get
> the
> sensor to work properly.
>

The post you are replying to is years old!

i) these type of lights usually have a timer - are you sure that you
have set the timer for less than 10 minutes.

ii) these type of lights often have a manual override so that you can
permanently switch them on. This function is often selected by removing
the power and then re-instating it within 15 seconds. To get back to
auto mode switch off the power for a couple of minutes and then switch
back on.

iii) are you sure that when you open the garage door that the PIR isn't
seeing a change in heat and triggering the light on?

[JohnW]

I bought one of these Screwfix LEDs too. I took it back because the light randomly came on at night and sometimes stayed on. Changed it for the one without PIR and fitted separate PIR from Toolstation. No further problems, and detection better as PIR is mounted lower down.

John

[Brian Gaff]

PIRs are very touchy things. I had a portable one to act as an alarm/ beacon
and it seemed to go off for no apparent reason at all. As I recall they work
by comparing the infra red received in a kind of striped group of sensors,
so presumably if, for example there is a draft and something hotter or
colder moves so its intermittently being seen by different parts, then it
sets the thing off.

Brian

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"JohnW" <johnand...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:50762e63-6c8b-4853...@googlegroups.com...

[dennis@home]

On 05/03/2018 09:13, Brian Gaff wrote:
> PIRs are very touchy things. I had a portable one to act as an alarm/ beacon
> and it seemed to go off for no apparent reason at all. As I recall they work
> by comparing the infra red received in a kind of striped group of sensors,
> so presumably if, for example there is a draft and something hotter or
> colder moves so its intermittently being seen by different parts, then it
> sets the thing off.
> Brian
>

The cheap ones only have one sensor.
They have a Fresnel lens that creates beams(1) with gaps between across
the field of view. As the target moves across the beams the sensor
detects the rise and fall. They count the pulses and set the alarm if a
certain count is reached in a set time. Better ones can have the pulse
count and/or time period changed, some are fixed.
More modern units have more than one sensor such as microwave + PIR and
both need to trigger for an alarm.


1: I know they aren't really beams tim but its an easy way to describe them.

[jim]

replying to Chris French, jim wrote:
LAP are awful, i have just bought a 5 pack of wall sockets, paid a spark to
fit 3 of them, sine fitting (2 days ago) 2 of the 3 sockets turn themselves on
by themselves??? They are absolute Sh**e...

[charlie46]

replying to dennis, charlie46 wrote:
Sorry to hijack this forum but I installed a set of 10 LAP LED deck lights a
couple of years ago and they have now failed. The lamps are OK and work
individually when each in turn is connected to the transformer but none of
them work when connected via the 10-way junction box, so I guess it must be a
problem in the junction box. Anyone know where I can buy a new junction box?
If I can get one what spec of cable should I use from the transformer to the
junction box - it is running 10 x 0.05W lamps?

[Roger Hayter]

charlie46 <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

> replying to dennis, charlie46 wrote:
> Sorry to hijack this forum but I installed a set of 10 LAP LED deck lights a
> couple of years ago and they have now failed. The lamps are OK and work
> individually when each in turn is connected to the transformer but none of
> them work when connected via the 10-way junction box, so I guess it must be a
> problem in the junction box. Anyone know where I can buy a new junction box?
> If I can get one what spec of cable should I use from the transformer to the
> junction box - it is running 10 x 0.05W lamps?

Does the junction box do anything apart from joining? Switch, dimmer
or anything? Has it got a fuse in it? If it has any circuitry in it
that is broken it could perhaps be easily converted into a passive
junction box. The other possibility is that the transformer will no
longer produce enough power for ten lights, but that would be an unusual
(and fairly easily testable) mode of failure. Are they really 50mW
lights, that seems a bit low?

--

Roger Hayter

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, 7 April 2018 19:44:06 UTC+1, charlie46 wrote:
> replying to dennis, charlie46 wrote:

> Sorry to hijack this forum but I installed a set of 10 LAP LED deck lights a
> couple of years ago and they have now failed. The lamps are OK and work
> individually when each in turn is connected to the transformer but none of
> them work when connected via the 10-way junction box, so I guess it must be a
> problem in the junction box. Anyone know where I can buy a new junction box?
> If I can get one what spec of cable should I use from the transformer to the
> junction box - it is running 10 x 0.05W lamps?

If they're really 50mW low voltage lamps, you can use any jbox or lashup you want.

This isn't a forum btw, the forum you're using just steals our content.


NT

[alan_m]

On 08/04/2018 03:24, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> This isn't a forum btw, the forum you're using just steals our content.
>

For information

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Home_owners_hub

[Ben Holwell]

replying to Stephen Blakemore, Ben Holwell wrote:
Hi Stephen, did you ever solve this problem? I have exactly the same issue! I
fitted 3 50w pir led flood lights yet one works for a short time then stays
on! but two yes TWO replacements are doing exactly the same! timer and
sensitivity set to minimum, and there is nothing possibly setting it off, no
trees bushes roads or paths, this is baffling me now, the only thing near it
is a budget CCTV with IR lighting, I wonder if that would bother it? I've
covered its lights but that's not worked.

[Brian Gaff]

I remember that, I never did see anyone post a working hypothesis for why it
was happening.
Brian

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"Ben Holwell" <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote in
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[Barry]

replying to News, Barry wrote:
I bought 9 of your lap lights from screw fix, I have installed them on my
kitchen on a lighting ring main. When I turn the lights on, 7 of the lights
come on at a mid led colour, the other 2 com on soft white. Is there anything
I can do to change this?

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Monday, 14 January 2019 18:14:05 UTC, Barry wrote:
> replying to News, Barry wrote:

> I bought 9 of your lap lights from screw fix, I have installed them on my
> kitchen on a lighting ring main. When I turn the lights on, 7 of the lights
> come on at a mid led colour, the other 2 com on soft white. Is there anything
> I can do to change this?

What is 'mid led colour'? Which lights are they?


NT

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <d375fa90-409e-4756...@googlegroups.com>,

It's from homeownershub. Don't expect any sense from them.

--
*Women like silent men; they think they're listening.

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.