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Shed bases made of plastic - are they any good?
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rmwebs REMOVETHIS AT REMOVETHIS
May 7, 2012, 12:32:29 PM5/7/12
to
Hi all,
I've been looking at a shed base and am on a bit of a tight budget, and
ideally want to get it done by myself as soon as possible.
I've been looking at these new plastic shed bases, and at first thought
they were some sort of feable, weak product but after looking at them
and researching them, I'm not so sure now.
If you google 'plastic shed base' you'll find a number of results, for
example Homebase and Screwfix both stock them.
The shed I'm building is a 8 by 10 log-cabin style (one of the slot
together ones) which I'll be converting into a garden office (all
planned out).
What do you think? Would a plastic base be ok for this, or am I really
going to have to go for a concrete one?
Another option I saw was basically putting slabs down, and then thick
solid wood runners, with the shed's own base on top of this, raising the
shed by around 4 inches.
I've been searching for reviews and some pros/cons as to each method but
cant seem to find anything other than damn adverts!
Any input would be appreciated,
Thanks!
--
rmwebs
damdu...@yahoo.co.uk
May 7, 2012, 4:50:48 PM5/7/12
to
On Mon, 7 May 2012 16:32:29 +0000, rmwebs
<(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I've been looking at a shed base and am on a bit of a tight budget, and
>ideally want to get it done by myself as soon as possible.
>
>I've been looking at these new plastic shed bases, and at first thought
>they were some sort of feable, weak product but after looking at them
>and researching them, I'm not so sure now.
>
>If you google 'plastic shed base' you'll find a number of results, for
>example Homebase and Screwfix both stock them.
Don't look as if they would do anything much different from some
<(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I've been looking at a shed base and am on a bit of a tight budget, and
>ideally want to get it done by myself as soon as possible.
>
>I've been looking at these new plastic shed bases, and at first thought
>they were some sort of feable, weak product but after looking at them
>and researching them, I'm not so sure now.
>
>If you google 'plastic shed base' you'll find a number of results, for
>example Homebase and Screwfix both stock them.
plastic pallets placed and trimmed in the right places.
Like wooden ones they vary from light to heavy duty but also like
wooden ones they are often available used and if you are on a tight
budget will probably be cheaper than offerings from the DIY Sheds.
G.Harman
Jeremy Nicoll - news posts
May 7, 2012, 5:12:16 PM5/7/12
to
rmwebs <(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
> Another option I saw was basically putting slabs down, and then thick
> solid wood runners, with the shed's own base on top of this, raising the
> shed by around 4 inches.
I have my shed standing on a gravel drive, so although the runners are laid
> Another option I saw was basically putting slabs down, and then thick
> solid wood runners, with the shed's own base on top of this, raising the
> shed by around 4 inches.
directly on the gravel, it's a surface which drains easily... which I hope
will mean the runners last longer.
Rather than laying slabs you might find spreading a few inches of gravel
would be easier (though it would need to be edged somehow to stop the gravel
squeezing out at the sides).
--
Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own.
Email sent to my from-address will be deleted. Instead, please reply
to newsre...@wingsandbeaks.org.uk replacing "aaa" by "284".
NT
May 7, 2012, 5:32:08 PM5/7/12
to
chris French
May 7, 2012, 5:44:32 PM5/7/12
to
In message <mpro.m3o88g...@wingsandbeaks.org.uk.invalid>, Jeremy
Nicoll - news posts <jn.nntp....@wingsandbeaks.org.uk> writes
think I cut them in half). Bedded on a dry mix sand and cement mixture,
and then laid the bearers (treated fence posts) across these.
--
Chris French
Nicoll - news posts <jn.nntp....@wingsandbeaks.org.uk> writes
>rmwebs <(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
>
>> Another option I saw was basically putting slabs down, and then thick
>> solid wood runners, with the shed's own base on top of this, raising the
>> shed by around 4 inches.
>
>I have my shed standing on a gravel drive, so although the runners are laid
>directly on the gravel, it's a surface which drains easily... which I hope
>will mean the runners last longer.
>
>Rather than laying slabs you might find spreading a few inches of gravel
>would be easier (though it would need to be edged somehow to stop the gravel
>squeezing out at the sides).
>
When I did my last shed, I put down some concrete blocks (actually, I
>
>> Another option I saw was basically putting slabs down, and then thick
>> solid wood runners, with the shed's own base on top of this, raising the
>> shed by around 4 inches.
>
>I have my shed standing on a gravel drive, so although the runners are laid
>directly on the gravel, it's a surface which drains easily... which I hope
>will mean the runners last longer.
>
>Rather than laying slabs you might find spreading a few inches of gravel
>would be easier (though it would need to be edged somehow to stop the gravel
>squeezing out at the sides).
>
think I cut them in half). Bedded on a dry mix sand and cement mixture,
and then laid the bearers (treated fence posts) across these.
--
Chris French
Adam Aglionby
May 7, 2012, 10:08:26 PM5/7/12
to
http://www.hawklok.co.uk
http://www.ecobase.biz
Look neat enough idea, spreads the load over large area if its a bit
soft, goes in quick, but blocks and bearers aren`t any big time user
either and probably 100 quid cheaper if you dont have to worry about
sinking.
Cheers
Adam
MM
May 8, 2012, 3:49:48 AM5/8/12
to
On Mon, 7 May 2012 16:32:29 +0000, rmwebs
<(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
<(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
>Another option I saw was basically putting slabs down, and then thick
>solid wood runners, with the shed's own base on top of this, raising the
>shed by around 4 inches.
If I was building a shed from scratch, i.e. not from a kit, I'd have
>solid wood runners, with the shed's own base on top of this, raising the
>shed by around 4 inches.
four main posts, one in each corner, say 2 x 2, and each of these
would be placed on a single patio slab, again one in each corner. I'd
construct the wooden floor about four inches above the ground. Oh, and
I'd dunk the ends of the posts in creocote for 24 hours first, upt to
a depth of at least four inches.
The four patio slabs could either rest on the ground or maybe cemented
in place, after digging out the ground a little and putting in some
ballast.
MM
Dave Liquorice
May 8, 2012, 3:57:54 AM5/8/12
to
On Mon, 7 May 2012 22:44:32 +0100, chris French wrote:
> When I did my last shed, I put down some concrete blocks (actually, I
> think I cut them in half). Bedded on a dry mix sand and cement mixture,
> and then laid the bearers (treated fence posts) across these.
That's what I would do, making sure the block or bricks are suitable
> When I did my last shed, I put down some concrete blocks (actually, I
> think I cut them in half). Bedded on a dry mix sand and cement mixture,
> and then laid the bearers (treated fence posts) across these.
for damp conditions and place a bit of slate or DPM between the block
and timber bearer.
I don't know why people insist on cast concrete "shed base" or laying
slabs over the whole area or similar things. Nothing is going to grow
underneath, make sure there is good are flow in a it will be dry. The
only slight problem might be rabbits (rural) or foxes (urban) taking
up home underneath but they can be kept out with a bit of mesh along
the gap.
--
Cheers
Dave.
chris French
May 8, 2012, 9:21:37 AM5/8/12
to
In message <nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk>, Dave
Liquorice <allsortsn...@howhill.co.uk> writes
but no reason not to.
>I don't know why people insist on cast concrete "shed base" or laying
>slabs over the whole area or similar things.
No, and laying a typical shed straight down onto the slabs never seemed
like a good idea. It's just asking for it to rot. Which was the
incentive really for the blocks/bearers route for me, as the old shed I
demolished had serious rot in the floor and bottom of the walls. (not
helped by our very poor draining clay soil, where water would collect
where ever it could after rain.)
--
Chris French
Liquorice <allsortsn...@howhill.co.uk> writes
>On Mon, 7 May 2012 22:44:32 +0100, chris French wrote:
>
>> When I did my last shed, I put down some concrete blocks (actually, I
>> think I cut them in half). Bedded on a dry mix sand and cement mixture,
>> and then laid the bearers (treated fence posts) across these.
>
>That's what I would do, making sure the block or bricks are suitable
>for damp conditions and place a bit of slate or DPM between the block
>and timber bearer.
>
Yup, I put of DPM roll twixt timber and block. Probably not necessary,
>
>> When I did my last shed, I put down some concrete blocks (actually, I
>> think I cut them in half). Bedded on a dry mix sand and cement mixture,
>> and then laid the bearers (treated fence posts) across these.
>
>That's what I would do, making sure the block or bricks are suitable
>for damp conditions and place a bit of slate or DPM between the block
>and timber bearer.
>
but no reason not to.
>I don't know why people insist on cast concrete "shed base" or laying
>slabs over the whole area or similar things.
like a good idea. It's just asking for it to rot. Which was the
incentive really for the blocks/bearers route for me, as the old shed I
demolished had serious rot in the floor and bottom of the walls. (not
helped by our very poor draining clay soil, where water would collect
where ever it could after rain.)
--
Chris French
rmwebs REMOVETHIS AT REMOVETHIS
May 8, 2012, 2:44:49 PM5/8/12
to
Thanks for the replies guys.
I did also find this today, it seems like you basically use your own
concrete casts (although I'd assume you can also use concrete slabs) and
use these metal brackets on the base, what do you think? It looks like a
pretty solid idea, especially for getting ventilation under the shed.
'examples' (http://www.shedbases.com/examples/examples.html)
I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a feeling
I may have to concede. I've been given some really high quotes (well, I
thought they were anyway!). For a 8x12 concrete base I was quoted £600!
--
rmwebs
Dave Liquorice
May 9, 2012, 3:59:43 AM5/9/12
to
On Tue, 8 May 2012 18:44:49 +0000, rmwebs wrote:
> I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
> something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a feeling
> I may have to concede.
You don't need a concrete base unless the ground is seriously soft. I
> I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
> something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a feeling
> I may have to concede.
don't think you will be able to get much cheaper than suitably damp
proof concrete blocks set almost flush to the ground surface and 4x4
treated fence posts across them with the actual shed floor joists
cross ways to the fence post bearers.
--
Cheers
Dave.
PeterC
May 9, 2012, 9:21:22 AM5/9/12
to
wasn't very damp and gets little rainfall anyway, so no use for crops.
I cleared and levelled it by just scraping then use engineering brick on
sharp sand with the bearers on top.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
NT
May 9, 2012, 10:03:10 AM5/9/12
to
On May 8, 7:44 pm, rmwebs
I cant see why you'd need to pour concrete if you dont want to.
Nor can I see any reason to buy concrete-in metal standoffs. As
always, someone wants your money, and DIY means a better job for a
fraction the price.
NT
Nor can I see any reason to buy concrete-in metal standoffs. As
always, someone wants your money, and DIY means a better job for a
fraction the price.
NT
Adam Aglionby
May 9, 2012, 8:07:07 PM5/9/12
to
On May 9, 3:03 pm, NT <meow2...@care2.com> wrote:
> On May 8, 7:44 pm, rmwebs
>
> <(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
> > Thanks for the replies guys.
>
> > I did also find this today, it seems like you basically use your own
> > concrete casts (although I'd assume you can also use concrete slabs) and
> > use these metal brackets on the base, what do you think? It looks like a
> > pretty solid idea, especially for getting ventilation under the shed.
>
> > 'examples' (http://www.shedbases.com/examples/examples.html)
>
> > I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
> > something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a feeling
> > I may have to concede. I've been given some really high quotes (well, I
> > thought they were anyway!). For a 8x12 concrete base I was quoted £600!
>
> I cant see why you'd need to pour concrete if you dont want to.
Unless your parking a JCB in your home office, even with heavy office
> On May 8, 7:44 pm, rmwebs
>
> <(REMOVETHIS)rick.sketchy(AT)gmail.com(REMOVETHIS)> wrote:
> > Thanks for the replies guys.
>
> > I did also find this today, it seems like you basically use your own
> > concrete casts (although I'd assume you can also use concrete slabs) and
> > use these metal brackets on the base, what do you think? It looks like a
> > pretty solid idea, especially for getting ventilation under the shed.
>
> > 'examples' (http://www.shedbases.com/examples/examples.html)
>
> > I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
> > something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a feeling
> > I may have to concede. I've been given some really high quotes (well, I
> > thought they were anyway!). For a 8x12 concrete base I was quoted £600!
>
> I cant see why you'd need to pour concrete if you dont want to.
furniture, full filing cabinet etc still not going to be machine tools
or something or is it?
>
> Nor can I see any reason to buy concrete-in metal standoffs.
was?
> As
> always, someone wants your money, and DIY means a better job for a
> fraction the price.
in a nice kit and promises easy install.
If really concerned about sinking use paving slabs below blocks to
spread the point loads?
Cheers
Adam
>
> NT
rmwebs REMOVETHIS AT REMOVETHIS
May 9, 2012, 5:41:07 PM5/9/12
to
PeterC;2858153 Wrote:
> On Wed, 09 May 2012 08:59:43 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:
> On Tue, 8 May 2012 18:44:49 +0000, rmwebs wrote:
> -
> I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
> something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a
> feeling
> I may have to concede. -
> something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a
> feeling
>
> You don't need a concrete base unless the ground is seriously soft. I
> don't think you will be able to get much cheaper than suitably damp
> proof concrete blocks set almost flush to the ground surface and 4x4
> treated fence posts across them with the actual shed floor joists
> cross ways to the fence post bearers.-
> You don't need a concrete base unless the ground is seriously soft. I
> don't think you will be able to get much cheaper than suitably damp
> proof concrete blocks set almost flush to the ground surface and 4x4
> treated fence posts across them with the actual shed floor joists
>
> I had the advantage of ground that I knew hadn't been dug for 40 years,
> wasn't very damp and gets little rainfall anyway, so no use for crops.
> I cleared and levelled it by just scraping then use engineering brick
> on
> sharp sand with the bearers on top.
> --
> Peter.
> The gods will stay away
> whilst religions hold sway
I think I may also have that advantage! :)
> I had the advantage of ground that I knew hadn't been dug for 40 years,
> wasn't very damp and gets little rainfall anyway, so no use for crops.
> I cleared and levelled it by just scraping then use engineering brick
> on
> sharp sand with the bearers on top.
> --
> Peter.
> The gods will stay away
> whilst religions hold sway
I cleared out the old shed today, and managed to smash a hole in the
floor to examine the base. Now, we're just north of London, and it has
been raining non-stop for about 3 weeks now. The underneath was bone
dry! I could just about get to the edge of a slab, with some dirt/mud
next to it that was so dry it was powdery.
The land has been untouched for a good 10 years. It looks like the old
shed has a good damp-proof layer as the shed itself was sodden, the roof
started leaking a while ago and its pretty weak (I was able to break a
hole in the wall with my finger!).
So looking good on the base side of things. I'm just not sure if it
would be a bad idea to remove the old shed with the weather we're
currently having, it'll leave the base exposed to the weather.
--
rmwebs
PeterC
May 10, 2012, 8:40:24 AM5/10/12
to
this?).
My old shed was in similar condition to yours. I emptied it, freed it from
the wall (pent lean-to) and, as it was only 4' wide, tipped it over.
Bertie Doe
May 10, 2012, 10:04:31 AM5/10/12
to
My 8 x 4 shed got finished last month:-
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd220/BertieDoe/?action=view¤t=364753f3.pbw
Bertie
MM
May 10, 2012, 11:05:20 AM5/10/12
to
ground? Just wondering.
MM
The Natural Philosopher
May 10, 2012, 11:44:44 AM5/10/12
to
> MM
--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.
Bertie Doe
May 10, 2012, 12:04:23 PM5/10/12
to
"MM" wrote in message news:c8mnq7p7b817ars10...@4ax.com...
On Thu, 10 May 2012 15:04:31 +0100, "Bertie Doe"
<monteb...@ntl.com> wrote:
>
>
>My 8 x 4 shed got finished last month:-
>
>http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd220/BertieDoe/?action=view¤t=364753f3.pbw
>
>Bertie
/ground? Just wondering.
I've been given a couple of tons (or more) of topsoil, from a neighbour who
wanted to dig out part of his allotment for use as a carport.
A lot of soil needed to be excavated as the slope is 12 : 1. The soil level
has been raised and the concrete blocks are no longer visible.
The original plan was not to bother with the blocks but simply to bolt the
3" x 2" tanalised, straight into the 20mm/dust cement 'H' base.
rmwebs REMOVETHIS AT REMOVETHIS
May 10, 2012, 2:51:04 PM5/10/12
to
PeterC;2858577 Wrote:
> On Wed, 9 May 2012 21:41:07 +0000, rmwebs wrote:
> PeterC;2858153 Wrote: -
> On Wed, 09 May 2012 08:59:43 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:
> -
> On Tue, 8 May 2012 18:44:49 +0000, rmwebs wrote:
> -
> I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
> something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a
> feeling
> I may have to concede. -
>
> You don't need a concrete base unless the ground is seriously soft. I
> don't think you will be able to get much cheaper than suitably damp
> proof concrete blocks set almost flush to the ground surface and 4x4
> treated fence posts across them with the actual shed floor joists
> cross ways to the fence post bearers.-
>
> I had the advantage of ground that I knew hadn't been dug for 40
> years,
> wasn't very damp and gets little rainfall anyway, so no use for crops.
> I cleared and levelled it by just scraping then use engineering brick
> on
> sharp sand with the bearers on top.
> --
> Peter.
> The gods will stay away
> whilst religions hold sway-
> -
> On Tue, 8 May 2012 18:44:49 +0000, rmwebs wrote:
> -
> I really am trying to avoid having a concrete base done. I want
> something I can do myself for a relatively low price, but have a
> feeling
> I may have to concede. -
>
> You don't need a concrete base unless the ground is seriously soft. I
> don't think you will be able to get much cheaper than suitably damp
> proof concrete blocks set almost flush to the ground surface and 4x4
> treated fence posts across them with the actual shed floor joists
> cross ways to the fence post bearers.-
>
> I had the advantage of ground that I knew hadn't been dug for 40
> years,
> wasn't very damp and gets little rainfall anyway, so no use for crops.
> I cleared and levelled it by just scraping then use engineering brick
> on
> sharp sand with the bearers on top.
> --
> Peter.
> The gods will stay away
>
> I think I may also have that advantage! :)
>
> I cleared out the old shed today, and managed to smash a hole in the
> floor to examine the base. Now, we're just north of London, and it has
> been raining non-stop for about 3 weeks now. The underneath was bone
> dry! I could just about get to the edge of a slab, with some dirt/mud
> next to it that was so dry it was powdery.
>
> The land has been untouched for a good 10 years. It looks like the old
> shed has a good damp-proof layer as the shed itself was sodden, the
> roof
> started leaking a while ago and its pretty weak (I was able to break a
> hole in the wall with my finger!).
>
> So looking good on the base side of things. I'm just not sure if it
> would be a bad idea to remove the old shed with the weather we're
> currently having, it'll leave the base exposed to the weather.-
> I think I may also have that advantage! :)
>
> I cleared out the old shed today, and managed to smash a hole in the
> floor to examine the base. Now, we're just north of London, and it has
> been raining non-stop for about 3 weeks now. The underneath was bone
> dry! I could just about get to the edge of a slab, with some dirt/mud
> next to it that was so dry it was powdery.
>
> The land has been untouched for a good 10 years. It looks like the old
> shed has a good damp-proof layer as the shed itself was sodden, the
> roof
> started leaking a while ago and its pretty weak (I was able to break a
> hole in the wall with my finger!).
>
> So looking good on the base side of things. I'm just not sure if it
> would be a bad idea to remove the old shed with the weather we're
>
> Yup, keep it dry until we have a fine spell (how soon do you want to do
> this?).
> My old shed was in similar condition to yours. I emptied it, freed it
> from
> the wall (pent lean-to) and, as it was only 4' wide, tipped it over.
> --
> Peter.
> The gods will stay away
> whilst religions hold sway
I was hoping to place the order over the weekend, which gives a 15-30
> Yup, keep it dry until we have a fine spell (how soon do you want to do
> this?).
> My old shed was in similar condition to yours. I emptied it, freed it
> from
> the wall (pent lean-to) and, as it was only 4' wide, tipped it over.
> --
> Peter.
> The gods will stay away
> whilst religions hold sway
day delivery. I suppose I could remove the walls and rood, and leve the
shed floor, and then basically cover it with a tarpaulin for now.
It'll probably fall down if we get a heavy gust of wind anyway :p
I've also got a small tree and grass to remove as the new shed is larger
than the old one. Maybe I should dig the gazeebo out and cover the
entire area while I do it lol :D
--
rmwebs
rmwebs REMOVETHIS AT REMOVETHIS
May 11, 2012, 5:47:16 PM5/11/12
to
rmwebs;2858645 Wrote:
> I was hoping to place the order over the weekend, which gives a 15-30
> day delivery. I suppose I could remove the walls and rood, and leve the
> shed floor, and then basically cover it with a tarpaulin for now.
>
> It'll probably fall down if we get a heavy gust of wind anyway :p
>
> I've also got a small tree and grass to remove as the new shed is larger
> than the old one. Maybe I should dig the gazeebo out and cover the
> entire area while I do it lol :D
heavy, large pick axe. Not a moment too soon either, I was able to stick
my finger through the roof and right through the felt with next to no
effort. Good job the cat didnt try and jump on it lol
The new shed has been ordered and will be here in '15-25 days', and the
hawklok base is coming next week. Anyone looking to use hawklok plastic,
my advice is to shop around. I first found it priced at over £300, but
ended up getting it for £240 from another seller. The prices vary
greatly.
Screwfix sell hawklok plastic bases and they are branded as 'Forest
plastic base' (from what I can tell, Forest is hawklok's parent
company).
--
rmwebs
carolin...@gmail.com
Mar 3, 2017, 11:48:06 AM3/3/17
to
Hi, I too am looking to put a shed in my garden at present it's all grassland. Quoted for a slab concrete base but is the plastic base sufficient on soft ish ground?
What else do I need?
What else do I need?
Bill
Mar 3, 2017, 12:59:28 PM3/3/17
to
In message <0c95dbf6-4404-4452...@googlegroups.com>,
carolin...@gmail.com writes
I have a Keter plastic shed, which came with a plastic base. I did as
little as possible levelling of the grassy ground and just assembled
the shed on it. It does move a bit when I walk on the base and in strong
winds a couple of years ago, the door catch worked loose and a door blew
open and broke its hinges.
I repaired these with filled epoxy, and it's been OK ever since.
A few weeks ago, in Homebase, I saw a cheap Australian metal shed and
talked them down in price. I had in mind a specific place in the garden
where this shed would have to be assembled with walls altered to avoid
the door being right behind an apple tree. I emailed the manufacturer to
ask about this but have had no reply, so it's all a bit of a gamble.
It needs a base, so I cleared an old ivy infested hedge and ground, put
down some gravel and then laid concrete slabs as the base. Clearing the
ground exposed an old biggish plastic bag of rock salt for the snow that
never came. Something had chewed into the bag at both ends, so I
decanted it into the bags the gravel came in.
This, I think, is what caused my back to go. The shed is still in its
cardboard box in the rain in the path, and the doc says if it's not
better in 6 weeks with these exercises, come back. I'm now on the third
week running on ibuprofen and hope, which is why I'm spending more time
boring people online.
I think it depends on the type and size of shed. My big shed workshop is
on a concrete base with a damp membrane.
--
Bill
carolin...@gmail.com writes
little as possible levelling of the grassy ground and just assembled
the shed on it. It does move a bit when I walk on the base and in strong
winds a couple of years ago, the door catch worked loose and a door blew
open and broke its hinges.
I repaired these with filled epoxy, and it's been OK ever since.
A few weeks ago, in Homebase, I saw a cheap Australian metal shed and
talked them down in price. I had in mind a specific place in the garden
where this shed would have to be assembled with walls altered to avoid
the door being right behind an apple tree. I emailed the manufacturer to
ask about this but have had no reply, so it's all a bit of a gamble.
It needs a base, so I cleared an old ivy infested hedge and ground, put
down some gravel and then laid concrete slabs as the base. Clearing the
ground exposed an old biggish plastic bag of rock salt for the snow that
never came. Something had chewed into the bag at both ends, so I
decanted it into the bags the gravel came in.
This, I think, is what caused my back to go. The shed is still in its
cardboard box in the rain in the path, and the doc says if it's not
better in 6 weeks with these exercises, come back. I'm now on the third
week running on ibuprofen and hope, which is why I'm spending more time
boring people online.
I think it depends on the type and size of shed. My big shed workshop is
on a concrete base with a damp membrane.
--
Bill
harry
Mar 3, 2017, 1:16:09 PM3/3/17
to
On Friday, 3 March 2017 16:48:06 UTC, carolin...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi, I too am looking to put a shed in my garden at present it's all grassland. Quoted for a slab concrete base but is the plastic base sufficient on soft ish ground?
> What else do I need?
Errr...Five year old posting???
> Hi, I too am looking to put a shed in my garden at present it's all grassland. Quoted for a slab concrete base but is the plastic base sufficient on soft ish ground?
> What else do I need?
Dave Liquorice
Mar 3, 2017, 3:32:44 PM3/3/17
to
On Fri, 3 Mar 2017 17:59:14 +0000, Bill wrote:
> This, I think, is what caused my back to go. The shed is still in its
> cardboard box in the rain in the path, and the doc says if it's not
> better in 6 weeks with these exercises, come back.
BTDTGTTS September last year, trapped L5 nerve, Right leg so painful
> This, I think, is what caused my back to go. The shed is still in its
> cardboard box in the rain in the path, and the doc says if it's not
> better in 6 weeks with these exercises, come back.
to attempt to use that I could barely move. The "Just keep moving,
90% of cases sort themselves out in 6 weeks (but any discomfort or
numbness in the groin area go *straight* to A&E do *not* pass go and
collect two hundred pounds)" was right. I was back at work after 6
weeks but it still isn't right. I'm about to self refer to the
Physios...
> I'm now on the third week running on ibuprofen and hope,
they didn't really toouch it.
> I think it depends on the type and size of shed. My big shed workshop is
> on a concrete base with a damp membrane.
move or settle. Our timber shed floor has the 1 1/2" sq "joists"
resting across 4 x 4" treated fence post laid directly on the ground
and leveled by having a 6" or so 1 to 2" thick flat stone underneath.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Vir Campestris
Mar 5, 2017, 3:59:02 PM3/5/17
to
On 03/03/2017 20:32, Dave Liquorice wrote:
> I'm about to self refer to the Physios...
I suggest you do that.
> I'm about to self refer to the Physios...
My GP was having trouble working out how to say to me "Take ibuprofen,
unless you have health insurance in which case go to a physio".
The physio got me from barely walking to normal speed in the first
session. (Running, dancing, lifting all took a little longer)
Andy
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