holding a door for electrical planing

[Harold Davis]

Hi,

I need to plane the bottom of an internal door and have done this with
other doors using an electrical plane. But when I did it before, I had
someone to help me by holding the door upright so I could stand on some
steps and run the plane along the top. Now she won't be there to help and
I'm going to have to do it on my own.

What's the best way to hold the door tight? I'm sure I've seen tradesmen
use electrical planes on doors without assistants, but I can't remember
exactly how they've done it! There's no way I can stand it on the floor and
plane the top as before - it wouldn't stay still.

Thanks in advance!

Harry

[Phil L]

"Harold Davis" <th...@is.not.a.real.email.address.invalid> wrote in message
news:XnsA4ADD6C492...@213.239.209.88...

Laying it flat on a table and holding the plane at 90 degrees seems to be
the way everyone else in the world does it, I've never seen anyone use a
stepladder to plane a door before.

[Harold Davis]

"Phil L" <neverc...@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:26obx.696085$9j2....@fx04.am4:

Thanks for this, Phil.

Is that so? :-) I'll be OK if I clamp it to the table, then.

The reason I did it the other way before is to make gravity my friend,
pulling the plane down evenly onto the surface being planed. It's quite a
heavy plane and we did several doors - about a dozen including cupboard
doors - and the amount of vibration was close to the maximum I would want
to withstand.

Thanks again!

> I've never seen anyone
> use a stepladder to plane a door before.

Harry

[Vir Campestris]

On 02/06/2015 21:12, Phil L wrote:
> Laying it flat on a table and holding the plane at 90 degrees seems to be
> the way everyone else in the world does it, I've never seen anyone use a
> stepladder to plane a door before.

I stand it on its side, and plane downwards. You can hold the other end
in a workmate or such. My father even had a special device - basically a
bit of wood with a square notch big enough to hold the door and a wedge.

You'll need to lift the planing end off the floor with a block so you
can go all the way.

Andy

[David Lang]

Don't use a plane. Use a circular saw and a sawboard with the door on a
bench or blocks.

[Andrew]

On 02/06/2015 21:06, Harold Davis wrote:

Take the door off and clamp vertically, short side upright, long side
horizontal into a workmate or similar. Place large enough block of wood
or breeze block under the other end, which you want to plane. Easy.

[stuart noble]

is the right answer

[Tricky Dicky]

Andy's dads way is the traditional way of planing the end of a door with a hand plane, however I would not recommend doing it that way with an electric plane. As you have to stand astride the door holding it in place with your knees, one slip and you could find yourself planing your knee caps. The only safe power tool method in my opinion is to use a router. I have a Tee-square like guide which I clamp to the door with the Tee part held against the long edge at the end of the cut with a sacrificial piece of timber held in between. This produces good edges without splinters, the only problem I have encountered with this method is the tendency on some cheap panel doors to use staples to hold the framing timbers together during manufacture, but these are a problem whatever method is used.

Richard

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <XnsA4ADD6C492...@213.239.209.88>,

I tend to clamp the door in the edge of the workmate vice, with the door
on the floor. For top or bottom, space one end off the floor enough to get
clearance for the plane.

--
*Why does the sun lighten our hair, but darken our skin?

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[John Rumm]

On 02/06/2015 21:06, Harold Davis wrote:

The traditional solution:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Hanging_a_door#Preparing_the_Door

(you can also grab the end of the door in the side of a workmate)


--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

[John Rumm]

On 02/06/2015 21:46, David Lang wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard

[Harold Davis]

David Lang <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in
news:mCobx.866800$X95.8...@fx10.am4:

> On 02/06/2015 21:06, Harold Davis wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I need to plane the bottom of an internal door and have done this
>> with other doors using an electrical plane. But when I did it before,
>> I had someone to help me by holding the door upright so I could stand
>> on some steps and run the plane along the top. Now she won't be there
>> to help and I'm going to have to do it on my own.
>>
>> What's the best way to hold the door tight? I'm sure I've seen
>> tradesmen use electrical planes on doors without assistants, but I
>> can't remember exactly how they've done it! There's no way I can
>> stand it on the floor and plane the top as before - it wouldn't stay
>> still.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!

> Don't use a plane. Use a circular saw and a sawboard with the door on
> a bench or blocks.

Yes, but I haven't got one! :-) Are you saying it's not feasible for
someone to do it on their own with an electric plane?

Harry

[Harold Davis]

Andrew <Andrew9...@mybtinternet.com> wrote in
news:mkl6ua$b4g$1...@speranza.aioe.org:

> On 02/06/2015 21:06, Harold Davis wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I need to plane the bottom of an internal door and have done this
>> with other doors using an electrical plane. But when I did it before,
>> I had someone to help me by holding the door upright so I could stand
>> on some steps and run the plane along the top. Now she won't be there
>> to help and I'm going to have to do it on my own.
>>
>> What's the best way to hold the door tight? I'm sure I've seen
>> tradesmen use electrical planes on doors without assistants, but I
>> can't remember exactly how they've done it! There's no way I can
>> stand it on the floor and plane the top as before - it wouldn't stay
>> still.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!

> Take the door off and clamp vertically, short side upright, long side
> horizontal into a workmate or similar. Place large enough block of
> wood or breeze block under the other end, which you want to plane.
> Easy.

Have you ever done that, Andrew? My electric plane is very heavy and
vibrates a *lot*. I don't think that would be feasible, except maybe if
you are Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Harry

[Rod Speed]

"Harold Davis" <th...@is.not.a.real.email.address.invalid> wrote in message

news:XnsA4B31A91C6...@213.239.209.88...

If he is saying that, he's wrong.

[Harold Davis]

Huge <Hu...@nowhere.much.invalid> wrote in
news:ctl1to...@mid.individual.net:

> On 2015-06-08, Harold Davis <th...@is.not.a.real.email.address.invalid>

> I've laid the door on its side, on blocks so the plane will go all the
> way down to the end, and held it upright with a B&D Workmate. And then
> plane vertically. You do *have* a Workmate, right? :o)

No I haven't got one of those either, but could buy one. Have you done
what you describe with a 1000W+ 3kg+ electrical planer that vibrates like
nobody's business?

Harry

[Harold Davis]

Huge <Hu...@nowhere.much.invalid> wrote in
news:ctl1vd...@mid.individual.net:

> On 2015-06-08, Harold Davis <th...@is.not.a.real.email.address.invalid>
> wrote:

> It's how I've done it, and although I'm 6'3" and 17st, I fly a desk
> for a living, so Arnie I'm not.

Sorry, Huge; I replied to your other post before I saw this one.

I'll get a workmate (the non-human kind) and try what you say.

Harry

[The Natural Philosopher]

A leccy planer that weighs less and vibrates less will set you back next
to nowt as will hiring one

Another possible is to clamp a straight edge as guide to the door and
use a router, suitably supported...

> Harry
>


--
New Socialism consists essentially in being seen to have your heart in
the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
someone else's pocket.

[rick]

On 02/06/2015 21:12, Phil L wrote:

> "Harold Davis" <th...@is.not.a.real.email.address.invalid> wrote in message
> news:XnsA4ADD6C492...@213.239.209.88...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I need to plane the bottom of an internal door and have done this with
>> other doors using an electrical plane. But when I did it before, I had
>> someone to help me by holding the door upright so I could stand on some
>> steps and run the plane along the top. Now she won't be there to help and
>> I'm going to have to do it on my own.
>>
>> What's the best way to hold the door tight? I'm sure I've seen tradesmen
>> use electrical planes on doors without assistants, but I can't remember
>> exactly how they've done it! There's no way I can stand it on the floor
>> and
>> plane the top as before - it wouldn't stay still.
>>

Have done this with door on edge held - far end held in a workmate ...
though a second pair of hands is best.

[Andy Burns]

Huge wrote:

> You do *have* a Workmate, right?

I have, and I only used it a few days ago, still just took me 15 minutes
to find it hiding behind the roofrack ...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <XnsA4B36BD9F8...@213.239.209.88>,

Harold Davis <th...@is.not.a.real.email.address.invalid> wrote:
> > I've laid the door on its side, on blocks so the plane will go all the
> > way down to the end, and held it upright with a B&D Workmate. And then
> > plane vertically. You do *have* a Workmate, right? :o)

> No I haven't got one of those either, but could buy one. Have you done
> what you describe with a 1000W+ 3kg+ electrical planer that vibrates
> like nobody's business?

I've got two electric planes, and neither vibrates. They do tend to kick
when you switch them on - I'd hope a modern one is soft start.

They are not the easiest of devices to use though. Probably need more
skill than a hand plane. And the blades need very careful setting to get a
true cut, even with skill.

--
*Oh, what a tangled website we weave when first we practice *

[Tricky Dicky]

I have to agree with Dave that electric hand planes are not the easiest of beasts to use especially when you have to operate them in anything other then their normal operating mode, namely horizontally along a length of wood. The traditional method ie. Andy's dads method or as shown in the wiki or the Workmate method are fine when using traditional Jack planes but a whole different kettle of fish with an electric planer. As I said In my previous post to do the top and bottom you have to stand astride the door holding it with your knees to stop movement and bent over being at full stretch by the time you end the stroke. I cannot see anybody advising any one that it is safe to run a power tool parallel to part of your body where one slight loss of control means your legs are the next thing it hits. It would be like placing a piece of wood in a Workmate then sitting on the Workmate with your legs either side of the wood to be planed and proceeding to plane with your electric planer. Likewise clamping the door horizontally to trestles/workmates and running the planer at right angles means you do not have full control of the machine as you have gravity working against you. I am not saying you will not see so called "professionals" doing either but it is foolhardy to do so. I am no 'elf & safety freak but strongly believe in not putting parts of my body in the way of fast turning sharp power tools. If you do not feel you can manage the task with a traditional plane and need to use a power tool than a router is your best bet. All you need is a guide suitably offset clamped to the door, a sacrificial piece of wood at the end of the router traverse and you will get splinter less edges and crucially all your body parts intact. If you have many doors to do then spending a little time knocking up a bit of a jig will save time in set up. By all means use an electric planer for the long edges of the door, but not the top and bottom.

Richard

[Old Git]

Providing your legs are long enough you can stand astride it and grip
with your knees. Always worked for me.

[steve.n]

harry you can buy a circular saw on screwfix for less than half the
price of a workmate
it is much much easier to trim door bottoms with a skilsaw than with
a plane.clamp or screw or pin a straightedge and run the saw across..the
cut will be straight and square

btw if your planer runs as rough as you make out,sling it or get it
repaired


steve

[News]

In message <9a029c0b-596f-417a...@googlegroups.com>,
Tricky Dicky <tricky...@sky.com> writes

>I am no 'elf & safety freak but strongly believe in not putting parts
>of my body in the way of fast turning sharp power tools.

Wise words. My brother was making a chair, and using an electrical
'thing' to carve out the bum shaped indentation in the seat. Not
wearing his usual protective gear, and the tool slipped, hitting his
thigh. He said it didn't cut him - it just vapourised the flesh. His
wife drove him to the nearby hospital, and he was OK, but now has a
large indentation in his thigh just below you know where.

--
Graeme

[News]

In message <ctlaln...@mid.individual.net>, Huge
<Hu...@nowhere.much.invalid> writes
>
>I chucked the roofracks out a while ago. I don't own a car they'll fit on
>any more.

I have two pairs of roof bars in the shed. They are in good condition
so I can't possibly chuck them, but they don't fit a modern car, and I
know in my heart I'll never, ever use them again. Story of my life. Or
my shed.
--
Graeme

[Andy Burns]

News wrote:

> Huge writes

>
>> I chucked the roofracks out a while ago. I don't own a car they'll fit on
>> any more.
>
> I have two pairs of roof bars in the shed.

I bought Thule bars rather than Audi's own (even if those fit direct to
the car without using feet) in the hope that they'll fit the next car
with a new set of feet. The roofrack is homemade so be slightly larger
than an 8x4 sheet.

[Chris French]

In message <+gVv4fvC...@nospam.demon.co.uk>, News
<Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk> writes

My Dad drilled a hole in his arm when I was about 12.

He was disabled - paralysed on the left hand side. Though could just
about swing his arm about and hang onto something with it in the crook
of his elbow.

We had a climbing frame that needed repairing. He had to stand on the
bottom bar to reach, hung on with his arm - drill slipped and straight
into his arm. Very painful at the time, but he didn't hit the bone
AFAICR, so healed up easily enough
--
Chris French

[Chris French]

In message <L9idncllkd9OBuvI...@brightview.co.uk>, Andy
Burns <usenet....@adslpipe.co.uk> writes

That was my theory.

Some of the rectangular bars to go on the Punto in 1994. I managed to
bend one, which was maybe the reason (though can't remember) I got new
bars when we also got a Mondeo in 2003.

2014 and a Galaxy replaces the Mondeo, but the Mondeo roof bars were to
short IIRC. So knew bars for that (Whispbar ones this time for a
change).

Having a clearout at the moment, I might just dump the feet and keep the
bars. Though I did have an idea of using a pair for making a cycle
carrier rack for the top of the trailer.
--
Chris French

[RobertL]

On Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at 9:22:00 PM UTC+1, Harold Davis wrote:


> The reason I did it the other way before is to make gravity my friend,
> pulling the plane down evenly onto the surface being planed. It's quite a
> heavy plane and we did several doors - about a dozen including cupboard
> doors - and the amount of vibration was close to the maximum I would want
> to withstand.




How about: stand it on the stairs and tie it to the ballustade. then the top of the door can be placed (choose the right step) at a convenient height above 1st floor level and you can keep gravity as your friend.

Robert

[stuart noble]

> harry you can buy a circular saw on screwfix for less than half the
> price of a workmate
> it is much much easier to trim door bottoms with a skilsaw than with
> a plane.clamp or screw or pin a straightedge and run the saw across..the
> cut will be straight and square
>

Blokes who hang doors for a living may well be able to plane accurately
but, for the rest of us, the above really is a no brainer.

[News]

In message <6c35494a-1902-4e8c...@googlegroups.com>,
RobertL <rober...@yahoo.com> writes

>
>How about: stand it on the stairs and tie it to the ballustade. then
>the top of the door can be placed

Excellent. Stair wells are always good places for DIY projects. Canoe,
anyone?

:-)

--
Graeme

[Windmill]

John Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes:

>On 02/06/2015 21:06, Harold Davis wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I need to plane the bottom of an internal door and have done this with
>> other doors using an electrical plane. But when I did it before, I had
>> someone to help me by holding the door upright so I could stand on some
>> steps and run the plane along the top. Now she won't be there to help and
>> I'm going to have to do it on my own.
>>
>> What's the best way to hold the door tight? I'm sure I've seen tradesmen
>> use electrical planes on doors without assistants, but I can't remember
>> exactly how they've done it! There's no way I can stand it on the floor and
>> plane the top as before - it wouldn't stay still.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!

>The traditional solution:

>http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Hanging_a_door#Preparing_the_Door

>(you can also grab the end of the door in the side of a workmate)

Don't know if someone else has suggested this, but when I fitted thick
underlay then asked a carpet shop to install carpet for me (it's
getting more difficult to do that myself), they brought a special-purpose
circular saw designed so that its blade would cut a small amount from under the
bottom of the door.
Presumably the thing can be rented.


--
Windmill, Til...@NoneHome.com Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost