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Mending Broken Roof Tile
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Interloper
Sep 9, 2012, 5:03:49 PM9/9/12
to
My roofing tiles are Redland plain concrete 10.1/2" x 6.1/2".
I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first remove
the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
My best option is to cement/glue the broken bottom half of the tile back in
place.
My question is; what is the best adhesive to use that is waterproof and will
withstand slight movement and thermal cycling?
Cement mortar always seems to crack off over time.
A Google search suggested using RT-600, but I can't track it down in the UK.
Any recommendations anyone?
TIA
--
Interloper
I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first remove
the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
My best option is to cement/glue the broken bottom half of the tile back in
place.
My question is; what is the best adhesive to use that is waterproof and will
withstand slight movement and thermal cycling?
Cement mortar always seems to crack off over time.
A Google search suggested using RT-600, but I can't track it down in the UK.
Any recommendations anyone?
TIA
--
Interloper
Andrew Gabriel
Sep 9, 2012, 5:33:36 PM9/9/12
to
In article <FeGdnbfhFamqmdDN...@bt.com>,
across the break, to keep the pieces together and prevent
water going through? Some sort of material that won't rot.
If the glue can go through it, put a piece of polythene
underneath so you don't inadvertently stick it to the tile
underneath.
There are grab adhesives which will strongly bond masonary
products, even when wet. I used to use Wickes Master
"Forget Nails" Waterproof which was excellent, but they
stopped doing that range. Someone can probably suggest a
current product which works well.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
"Interloper" <intr...@gmail.com> writes:
> My roofing tiles are Redland plain concrete 10.1/2" x 6.1/2".
>
> I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
> Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
> two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
> chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first remove
> the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
> My best option is to cement/glue the broken bottom half of the tile back in
> place.
>
> My question is; what is the best adhesive to use that is waterproof and will
> withstand slight movement and thermal cycling?
>
> Cement mortar always seems to crack off over time.
What about glueing something on the bottom of the tile,
> My roofing tiles are Redland plain concrete 10.1/2" x 6.1/2".
>
> I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
> Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
> two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
> chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first remove
> the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
> My best option is to cement/glue the broken bottom half of the tile back in
> place.
>
> My question is; what is the best adhesive to use that is waterproof and will
> withstand slight movement and thermal cycling?
>
> Cement mortar always seems to crack off over time.
across the break, to keep the pieces together and prevent
water going through? Some sort of material that won't rot.
If the glue can go through it, put a piece of polythene
underneath so you don't inadvertently stick it to the tile
underneath.
There are grab adhesives which will strongly bond masonary
products, even when wet. I used to use Wickes Master
"Forget Nails" Waterproof which was excellent, but they
stopped doing that range. Someone can probably suggest a
current product which works well.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
The Natural Philosopher
Sep 9, 2012, 5:46:05 PM9/9/12
to
--
Ineptocracy
(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.
Interloper
Sep 9, 2012, 5:58:43 PM9/9/12
to
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
>
> What about glueing something on the bottom of the tile,
> across the break, to keep the pieces together and prevent
> water going through?
Yes, I did consider that. I thought of using either slate, or a piece of
>
> What about glueing something on the bottom of the tile,
> across the break, to keep the pieces together and prevent
> water going through?
the thin cement fibre-board that used to be commonly used for soffits,
although the cement fibre-board probably contained asbestos has since been
banned.
> Some sort of material that won't rot.
any more than 3 - 4mm thick. Maybe fibreglass sheet?
> If the glue can go through it, put a piece of polythene
> underneath so you don't inadvertently stick it to the tile
> underneath.
behind. The adhesive would pass through the mesh and bond well.
This still leaves the question of which adhesive to use. I wondered about
an external tile adhesive such as would be used for tiling a swimming pool.
> There are grab adhesives which will strongly bond masonary
> products, even when wet. I used to use Wickes Master
> "Forget Nails" Waterproof which was excellent, but they
> stopped doing that range. Someone can probably suggest a
> current product which works well.
DANGER! EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. HARMFUL OR FATAL IF SWALLOWED. Contains Naphtha
Solvents, Toluene and Ethanol. Keep from heat, sparks and flame. Vapors may
ignite explosively. Extinguish all flames, burners, stoves, heaters and
pilot lights and disconnect all electrical motors and appliances before use
and until all vapors are gone. Prevent build up of vapors by opening all
windows and doors to achieve cross-ventilation. May cause central nervous
system effects including dizziness, headache or nausea. Contains n-Hexane
which can cause peripheral polyneuropathy and central nerve damage. KEEP OUT
OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
That more than enough to give our killjoy H&S Executive a fit of the
vapours. I doubt I'll find it for sale in the UK!
--
Interloper
The Medway Handyman
Sep 10, 2012, 3:19:39 AM9/10/12
to
Muddymike
Sep 10, 2012, 3:33:34 AM9/10/12
to
My roofing tiles are Redland plain concrete 10.1/2" x 6.1/2".
>
>I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
>Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
>two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
>chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first
>remove the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
I don't understand the problem, you should be able to replace the tile in
>
>I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
>Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
>two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
>chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first
>remove the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
the same way as replacing a slate. See;
http://roofireland.com/replacing_a_broken_tile.htm
Mike
harry
Sep 10, 2012, 4:34:52 AM9/10/12
to
near the ridge, that makes it easier.
The ridge will have to be removed and the intevening good tiles until
you get down to the broken one.
The cement bed on the ridge can usually be cut with the angle grinder.
Temporary repairs can be made by shoving a piece of lead under the
broken tile or using a bit of flashband.
stuart noble
Sep 10, 2012, 5:10:01 AM9/10/12
to
Muddymike
Sep 10, 2012, 5:11:03 AM9/10/12
to
>My roofing tiles are Redland plain concrete 10.1/2" x 6.1/2".
>
>I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
>Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
>two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
>chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first
>remove the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
>
>I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
>Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
>two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
>chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first
>remove the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
Interloper
Oct 7, 2012, 8:23:13 AM10/7/12
to
I wrote:
>
> My roofing tiles are Redland plain concrete 10.1/2" x 6.1/2".
>
> I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
> Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
> two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
> chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first
> remove the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
> My best option is to cement/glue the broken bottom half of the tile back
> in place.
>
> My question is; what is the best adhesive to use that is waterproof and
> will withstand slight movement and thermal cycling?
OK, I can answer my own question now. The best adhesive seems to be
>
> My roofing tiles are Redland plain concrete 10.1/2" x 6.1/2".
>
> I have found a broken tile that has snapped horizontally in half.
> Unfortunately, the tile is adjacent to valley tiles, twice nailed and only
> two rows down from the cement bedded ridge tiles. Consequently there's no
> chance of removing its top half and fitting a new tile unless I first
> remove the ridge tiles, which I don't want to do.
>
> My best option is to cement/glue the broken bottom half of the tile back
> in place.
>
> My question is; what is the best adhesive to use that is waterproof and
> will withstand slight movement and thermal cycling?
Araldite epoxy resin (original, slow-set Araldite, not the quick-set
10-minute version).
I deliberately snapped a spare roof tile in half and then glued it back
together with Araldite. I left it for a week, and then tried to break it.
The glued joint held firm. I then dropped the tile onto a concrete surface,
whereupon it predictably shattered into many pieces. However, nowhere did
it break along the glue line.
I have now glued my broken roof tile back in place, and the result seems
perfect.
It's important that the tile is a simple break with matching edges to glue.
Choose a hot, dry, sunny day - the Araldite needs 5-hours to set! Wire
brush the broken edges to remove any loose material. Coat both edges with
Araldite and push the two tile pieces together. I used a piece of plastic
under the tile to prevent the adhesive from sticking to the tile beneath. I
held the broken piece of tile in position with wire hooks and elastic bands,
until the Araldite had set.
Providing the integrity of the glued joint isn't compromised by months of
rain and thermal cycling, the job's a good un.
--
Interloper
The Natural Philosopher
Oct 7, 2012, 8:33:20 AM10/7/12
to
that resembles earthenware ceramic and does a similar job.
I've repaired the odd terracotta pot with that with similar results to
those which you describe.
Bill
Oct 7, 2012, 8:32:26 AM10/7/12
to
In message <XMednR269sa-6ezN...@bt.com>, Interloper
<intr...@gmail.com> writes
>OK, I can answer my own question now. The best adhesive seems to be
>Araldite epoxy resin (original, slow-set Araldite, not the quick-set
>10-minute version).
>
>I deliberately snapped a spare roof tile in half and then glued it back
>together with Araldite. I left it for a week, and then tried to break it.
>The glued joint held firm. I then dropped the tile onto a concrete surface,
>whereupon it predictably shattered into many pieces. However, nowhere did
>it break along the glue line.
>
>I have now glued my broken roof tile back in place, and the result seems
>perfect.
>
>It's important that the tile is a simple break with matching edges to glue.
>Choose a hot, dry, sunny day - the Araldite needs 5-hours to set! Wire
>brush the broken edges to remove any loose material. Coat both edges with
>Araldite and push the two tile pieces together. I used a piece of plastic
>under the tile to prevent the adhesive from sticking to the tile beneath. I
>held the broken piece of tile in position with wire hooks and elastic bands,
>until the Araldite had set.
>
>Providing the integrity of the glued joint isn't compromised by months of
>rain and thermal cycling, the job's a good un.
Well described, I hope it has worked for you. May even encourage me to
fix a couple of mine.
--
Bill
<intr...@gmail.com> writes
>OK, I can answer my own question now. The best adhesive seems to be
>Araldite epoxy resin (original, slow-set Araldite, not the quick-set
>10-minute version).
>
>I deliberately snapped a spare roof tile in half and then glued it back
>together with Araldite. I left it for a week, and then tried to break it.
>The glued joint held firm. I then dropped the tile onto a concrete surface,
>whereupon it predictably shattered into many pieces. However, nowhere did
>it break along the glue line.
>
>I have now glued my broken roof tile back in place, and the result seems
>perfect.
>
>It's important that the tile is a simple break with matching edges to glue.
>Choose a hot, dry, sunny day - the Araldite needs 5-hours to set! Wire
>brush the broken edges to remove any loose material. Coat both edges with
>Araldite and push the two tile pieces together. I used a piece of plastic
>under the tile to prevent the adhesive from sticking to the tile beneath. I
>held the broken piece of tile in position with wire hooks and elastic bands,
>until the Araldite had set.
>
>Providing the integrity of the glued joint isn't compromised by months of
>rain and thermal cycling, the job's a good un.
fix a couple of mine.
--
Bill
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