Swapping a toilet with a cast iron soil pipe
ARWadsworth
The incoming pipe from the cast iron stack is lead, replacement of the stack
is not an option.
Anyone done this and had any problems? Or got any useful tips?
--
Cheers
Adam
A.Lee
> Any gotchas?
> The incoming pipe from the cast iron stack is lead, replacement of the stack
> is not an option.
Lead?
I've seen lead lined holes, but not full lead pipes.
> Anyone done this and had any problems? Or got any useful tips?
Could be a nightmare if lead. How is the existing toilet sealed?
Concrete/hemp/boss white mix around the pipe?
I think I'd be be looking at replacing it with plastic, up to the soil
stack joint anyway.
Pictures would tell a thousand words.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
ARWadsworth
I'll cheat and have a look at the neighbours toilet.
Their toilet was swapped not long ago and shares the soil stack with the
house where I am working.
The last thing my mate wants is a load of hemp and boss white around the
pipe.
It was fixed to the lead with an flexi pipe that has been leaking (probably
for years)
--
Adam
chris French
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
Are you intending to replace the lead pipe?
In my old '30's house I did this - I was moving the toilet horizontally
about 2-3 m further away from the soil stack, so had to replace the lead
pipe anyway.
So used plastic soil pipe, for the run to the stack (with an adjustable
bend to allow for the change in angle required), cleaned out the CI
socket, the plastic pipe was a nice fit in the socket. Used something to
seal the joint, I think it was the black gutter sealant. but any
suitable sealant would do I guess.
--
Chris French
ARWadsworth
I was hoping not to replace the lead pipe but I will if it as easy as you
make it out to be.
I might have to if the new toilet does not fit the hole.
Did you have any problems removing the lead from the iron?
--
Adam
John Rumm
Generally speaking, any of the WC connectors with the finned rubber bits
on the end can be stuffed down into most pipes that are mostly round and
in the right range of diameters.
--
Cheers,
John.
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jgharston
soil stack. If at all possible, the easiest thing to so was
cut a section from the soil stack and insert a T with a
double-end seal. The short black horizontal section here:
http://pics.mdfs.net/2011/04/110404.htm
JGH
chris French
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
The joint was sealed with what seemed to be putty - of course all hard
by then - easy enough to chop that out with an old chisel/screwdriver
--
Chris French
ARWadsworth
I have
http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/100_0623.jpg
The black pipe is lead. So is the mirror image grey pipe.
The horizntal pipe is cast iron.
--
Adam
ARWadsworth
See my reply to Mr Hartston for a picture.
I am sure I can get plastic into that joint.
Thanks
--
Adam
ARWadsworth
"VERTICAL" pipe:-)
--
Adam
Tim Watts
Interesting. We've got lead at work - or I guess it'd lead by the apperance
of what look like wiped joints and the odd dent, under the paint... Never
seen it before then.
I'd treat it like a bit of manky old cast iron, which I have done before.
Is the pipe near the boss end still resembling a circle?
If so, use a suitable WC pan adaptor with lots of big soft rubber flutes -
the sort you'd normally use on cast iron. When I did one of these (in the
80's) it came with a pack of thick grease (presumably silicone) to smear
inside the pipe and over the flutes to ensure a seal. If yours doesn't, I'd
be inclined to buy a tub of the thickest plumbers grease the shop has.
The bogs at work appear to use a similar looking pan adaptor to the ones I'm
thinking of and look as ropey as shite, but they do not leak.
For good measure, I pumped a load of sealant (silicone would do) in the
metal flange space to get a secondary seal to the pan adaptor. May need to
back fill with tissue though...
--
Tim Watts
Newshound
>>> So used plastic soil pipe, for the run to the stack (with an
>>> adjustable bend to allow for the change in angle required), cleaned
>>> out the CI socket, the plastic pipe was a nice fit in the socket.
>>> Used something to seal the joint, I think it was the black gutter
>>> sealant. but any suitable sealant would do I guess.
>>
>> I was hoping not to replace the lead pipe but I will if it as easy as you
>> make it out to be.
>>
>> I might have to if the new toilet does not fit the hole.
>>
>> Did you have any problems removing the lead from the iron?
>>
> No, it was easy enough IIRC.
>
> The joint was sealed with what seemed to be putty - of course all hard
> by then - easy enough to chop that out with an old chisel/screwdriver
Sometimes vertical iron to iron joints were sealed by filling with
molten lead (or perhaps solder).
But agree, plastic into iron is a doddle. I think I used gutter sealant
too (on top of a tight packing of loo roll, ISTR)
chris French
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
to be easier than sticking a bit of plastic into the old socket.
--
Chris French
chris French
was quite easy
--
Chris French
John Rumm
http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/productlist.asp
Something like part number WC-F18S will poke in the end of the existing
pipe and should make a good seal.
John Rumm
The traditional approach is to wind cord round the bottom of the new
pipe section that is going into the socket - this is to make it wider
and stop whatever you seal the gap with for falling down the pipe.
Dean Heighington
One BIG gotcha!...
If you end up needing to cut any of the iron stack with a grinder... Make
sure there are no cars anywhere near you or use protective sheets if there
are. It cost me £350 once to have a Range Rover treated to remove iron
filings which had melted down into the lacquer, if that had failed the next
stop would have been a £?000 respray!!! And it was about 100ft away from
where I was working!
Still makes me weep to remember.
--
What else are opposable thumbs for? Get to me at
masterfix{at}btinternet{dot}com
ARWadsworth
>>>>>> Anyone done this and had any problems? Or got any useful tips?
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Are you intending to replace the lead pipe?
>>>>>
>>>>> In my old '30's house I did this - I was moving the toilet
>>>>> horizontally about 2-3 m further away from the soil stack, so had
>>>>> to replace the lead pipe anyway.
>>>>>
>>>>> So used plastic soil pipe, for the run to the stack (with an
>>>>> adjustable bend to allow for the change in angle required),
>>>>> cleaned out the CI socket, the plastic pipe was a nice fit in the
>>>>> socket. Used something to seal the joint, I think it was the
>>>>> black gutter sealant. but any suitable sealant would do I guess.
>>>>
>>>> I was hoping not to replace the lead pipe but I will if it as easy
>>>> as you make it out to be.
>>>>
>>>> I might have to if the new toilet does not fit the hole.
>>>>
>>>> Did you have any problems removing the lead from the iron?
>>>>
>>> No, it was easy enough IIRC.
>>>
>>> The joint was sealed with what seemed to be putty - of course all
>>> hard by then - easy enough to chop that out with an old
>>> chisel/screwdriver
>>
>> See my reply to Mr Hartston for a picture.
>>
>> I am sure I can get plastic into that joint.
>>
> Yup, that was the sort of thing I had (without the neighbour), really
> was quite easy
A nosey around a few neighbours gardens found this
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0624.jpg
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0625.jpg
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0626.jpg
I would prefer to replace the lead pipe and then if anything goes wrong the
shit is on the outside:-)
--
Adam
John Rumm
> ARWadsworth wrote:
>
>> Any gotchas?
>>
>> The incoming pipe from the cast iron stack is lead, replacement of the
>> stack is not an option.
>>
>> Anyone done this and had any problems? Or got any useful tips?
>>
>
> Interesting. We've got lead at work - or I guess it'd lead by the apperance
> of what look like wiped joints and the odd dent, under the paint... Never
> seen it before then.
>
> I'd treat it like a bit of manky old cast iron, which I have done before.
>
> Is the pipe near the boss end still resembling a circle?
>
> If so, use a suitable WC pan adaptor with lots of big soft rubber flutes -
> the sort you'd normally use on cast iron. When I did one of these (in the
> 80's) it came with a pack of thick grease (presumably silicone) to smear
> inside the pipe and over the flutes to ensure a seal. If yours doesn't, I'd
> be inclined to buy a tub of the thickest plumbers grease the shop has.
Make sure its silicone grease so as not to attack/perish the "rubber"...
(but yup, I normally grease mine!)
Tim Watts
> (but yup, I normally grease mine!)
>
But what do you do with your WC connector?
<runs/>
--
Tim Watts
sm_jamieson
When I replaced mine, the lead "pipe" went through the solid 9" wall at a very strange angle, and it was not exactly round !
The wall had obviously been built around it, and it had been squashed a bit in the process !
Then result was that the hole had to be enlarged a lot to get a normal plastic pipe through - I took out a few bricks to do it.
Loads of 70 year old putty came out from both ends (of the pipe, not me) - it smelt like it was straight out of the pot.
Good luck (if you've not done it yet).
Simon.
John Rumm
> John Rumm wrote:
>
>
>> (but yup, I normally grease mine!)
>>
>
> But what do you do with your WC connector?
I try not to connect mine to the WC... its chilly!
ARWadsworth
I did it today.
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0628.jpg
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0629.jpg
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0636.jpg
Is was what I started with. I cut the lead just before the stack and then
knocked it out of the wall. As the original was cemented in all the way
through the cavity I did have to remove all the mortar.
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0641.jpg
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0639.jpg
The 4" to 3 1/2" adaptor would only fit when I had removed the rubber seal
(the wholesalers warned me of this). I had to hammer the adaptor into place
using a piece of timber to protect it from the hammer. There is no sealant
in that joint, however it is a very snug fit.
Then a short piece of pipe with a 90 deg bend and then shove on the waste
pipe from the inside.
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0644.jpg
I had bought a flexible connector to connect the toilet to the pipe. However
this was too long to do the job so I went and brought a 14.5 deg coupler.
http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/adamko2020/?action=view¤t=100_0649.jpg
This picture does not show that the pipe and connector are actually in line
with each other.
The hole will be cemented back up after the toilet is place on the ply
covering that is going down in the bathroom, and certainly not today as I am
going to the pub for an hour.
And thanks to Alan Lee for his advice.
--
Adam
A.Lee
> sm_jamieson <sm_ja...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > On Sunday, August 14, 2011 7:49:21 PM UTC+1, ARWadsworth wrote:
> >> Any gotchas?
> >>
> >> The incoming pipe from the cast iron stack is lead, replacement of
> >> the stack is not an option.
> >>
> >> Anyone done this and had any problems? Or got any useful tips?
> I did it today.
Dead easy isnt it?
Far easier to do it than describe.
Glad it went well.
jgharston
> A nosey around a few neighbours gardens found this
Is what looks like a breeze-block wall really made of blocks only
one inch thick?
JGH