Qs about chipboard floors, floorboards, tiling, dot n dab plaster board etc
David Robinson
in this group, which has raised some new questions! ...
I've got a wrecked (damp) chipboard floor (in the utility) that I need
to replace. I was thinking of laying floorboards to make it easier to
take up parts for access later on - sensible or stupid?
Chipboard seems to be preferred these days - why is that?
I want to run new cables down dot and dab walls. If I can feed them
down the cavity, I will, but where I can't, is it OK to just cut a
trench in the plasterboard? I'm worried that it'll crack when filled.
Any tips?
There's a new (expensive) version of the Exakt Saw out, with a 26mm
cut...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exakt-saw-DC270-Brand-Deep/dp/B003DXTTLM
...the old 12mm version has been discussed here before. Will this 26mm
version be good for cutting (existing) floorboards, chipboard
flooring, plasterboard / walls, etc? I use my jigsaw for floorboards
at the moment, good old hammer and chisel (sometimes Stanley knife
first) for plasterboard / walls, and circular saw for chipboard floors
- but maybe this new tool will be more convenient for all of these
jobs? Don't like spend money, but if it's quicker and safer, it might
be worth it.
Finally, the floorboards in the bathroom are pretty wrecked. I want to
tile over them, and I know with 6-12mm plywood, BAL Fastflex tile
adhesive, tiles etc I'll end up raising the floor by about 1".
Wouldn't it be easier to just put a new floor down (chipboard?), or
would that still need strengthening to hold tiles OK?
Thanks for any help/advice.
Cheers,
David.
The Natural Philosopher
> I've used google groups to check previous answers to these questions
> in this group, which has raised some new questions! ...
>
>
> I've got a wrecked (damp) chipboard floor (in the utility) that I need
> to replace. I was thinking of laying floorboards to make it easier to
> take up parts for access later on - sensible or stupid?
>
> Chipboard seems to be preferred these days - why is that?
>
>
> I want to run new cables down dot and dab walls. If I can feed them
> down the cavity, I will, but where I can't, is it OK to just cut a
> trench in the plasterboard? I'm worried that it'll crack when filled.
> Any tips?
>
I have used a series of holes and a coat hanger to drag CAT5.
Cant answer for mains.
I have trenched plasterboard now and then. I usually stuff e.g.
newspaper in the cavity to support a bonding plaster coat and skim with
finish layer.
<..>
>
> Finally, the floorboards in the bathroom are pretty wrecked. I want to
> tile over them, and I know with 6-12mm plywood, BAL Fastflex tile
> adhesive, tiles etc I'll end up raising the floor by about 1".
> Wouldn't it be easier to just put a new floor down (chipboard?), or
> would that still need strengthening to hold tiles OK?
Id remove everything and go for 19mm waterproof ply and about 6mm of
flexible adhesive.
If the floor is flexible, removing allows you to double up joists and
herringbone it if necessary.
Herringbone really helps a great deal with decent depth joists.
And whilst it takes time, its bloody simple
Tim Watts
> I've used google groups to check previous answers to these questions
> in this group, which has raised some new questions! ...
>
>
> I've got a wrecked (damp) chipboard floor (in the utility) that I need
> to replace. I was thinking of laying floorboards to make it easier to
> take up parts for access later on - sensible or stupid?
Sensible unless you are going to lay vinyl over, in which case you will
need to overlay hardboard to prevent the floorboards showing through.
You could lay smaller sheets of ply, well screwed down, say 3 joists
square which should be a reasonable compromise.
> Chipboard seems to be preferred these days - why is that?
Because it's cheap and crap? It does interlock, but then that makes it a
bastard to lift.
>
> I want to run new cables down dot and dab walls. If I can feed them
> down the cavity, I will, but where I can't, is it OK to just cut a
> trench in the plasterboard? I'm worried that it'll crack when filled.
> Any tips?
You'll end up going right through the board, so yes, it will probably crack.
You could cut out a wider strip, insert conduit, and repair the strip
(see the Wiki), using scrim tape over the joints - but you'll need to
feather some jointer filler over somehow.
>
> There's a new (expensive) version of the Exakt Saw out, with a 26mm
> cut...
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exakt-saw-DC270-Brand-Deep/dp/B003DXTTLM
> ...the old 12mm version has been discussed here before. Will this 26mm
> version be good for cutting (existing) floorboards, chipboard
> flooring, plasterboard / walls, etc? I use my jigsaw for floorboards
> at the moment, good old hammer and chisel (sometimes Stanley knife
> first) for plasterboard / walls, and circular saw for chipboard floors
> - but maybe this new tool will be more convenient for all of these
> jobs? Don't like spend money, but if it's quicker and safer, it might
> be worth it.
>
>
> Finally, the floorboards in the bathroom are pretty wrecked. I want to
> tile over them, and I know with 6-12mm plywood, BAL Fastflex tile
> adhesive, tiles etc I'll end up raising the floor by about 1".
> Wouldn't it be easier to just put a new floor down (chipboard?), or
> would that still need strengthening to hold tiles OK?
I'd lift the floor and relay 18mm ply. Or - ignore the 1" - put a ramped
threshold in. I have ramps here and it's not particulary obtrustive.
>
> Thanks for any help/advice.
>
> Cheers,
> David.
--
Tim Watts
Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.
John Rumm
> I've got a wrecked (damp) chipboard floor (in the utility) that I need
> to replace. I was thinking of laying floorboards to make it easier to
> take up parts for access later on - sensible or stupid?
Nothing wrong with floorboards... might need to be T&G to satisfy
building regs these days - but for retrofit that hardly matters.
> Chipboard seems to be preferred these days - why is that?
Its cheap, and quick to lay large areas. Its also much simpler to get
air tight.
> I want to run new cables down dot and dab walls. If I can feed them
> down the cavity, I will, but where I can't, is it OK to just cut a
> trench in the plasterboard? I'm worried that it'll crack when filled.
> Any tips?
As long as the edges can't flap about you should be ok. Probably easier
to hide if you scrim over and the PB is also skimmed.
> There's a new (expensive) version of the Exakt Saw out, with a 26mm
> cut...
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exakt-saw-DC270-Brand-Deep/dp/B003DXTTLM
> ....the old 12mm version has been discussed here before. Will this 26mm
> version be good for cutting (existing) floorboards, chipboard
> flooring, plasterboard / walls, etc? I use my jigsaw for floorboards
Well given that most of those are <= 26mm then it sounds like it ought to.
> at the moment, good old hammer and chisel (sometimes Stanley knife
> first) for plasterboard / walls, and circular saw for chipboard floors
> - but maybe this new tool will be more convenient for all of these
> jobs? Don't like spend money, but if it's quicker and safer, it might
> be worth it.
If spending that sort of money, I would get a multimaster. That's very
good for lifting floors and hacking lumps out of plasterboard.
> Finally, the floorboards in the bathroom are pretty wrecked. I want to
> tile over them, and I know with 6-12mm plywood, BAL Fastflex tile
> adhesive, tiles etc I'll end up raising the floor by about 1".
> Wouldn't it be easier to just put a new floor down (chipboard?), or
> would that still need strengthening to hold tiles OK?
Stick a new floor down. If you use say 19mm WPB ply, then it ought to be
firm enough to tile straight onto.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
David Robinson
> > I want to run new cables down dot and dab walls. If I can feed them
> > down the cavity, I will, but where I can't, is it OK to just cut a
> > trench in the plasterboard? I'm worried that it'll crack when filled.
> > Any tips?
>
> As long as the edges can't flap about you should be ok. Probably easier
> to hide if you scrim over and the PB is also skimmed.
It's an existing room, so already skimmed - won't be doing it again,
so it's just a case of filling and "hoping" it doesn't crack. Worried
about movement where the plasterboard has been cut.
> > There's a new (expensive) version of the Exakt Saw out, with a 26mm
> > cut...
> >http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exakt-saw-DC270-Brand-Deep/dp/B003DXTTLM
> > ....the old 12mm version has been discussed here before. Will this 26mm
> > version be good for cutting (existing) floorboards, chipboard
> > flooring, plasterboard / walls, etc? I use my jigsaw for floorboards
>
> Well given that most of those are <= 26mm then it sounds like it ought to.
>
> > at the moment, good old hammer and chisel (sometimes Stanley knife
> > first) for plasterboard / walls, and circular saw for chipboard floors
> > - but maybe this new tool will be more convenient for all of these
> > jobs? Don't like spend money, but if it's quicker and safer, it might
> > be worth it.
>
> If spending that sort of money, I would get a multimaster. That's very
> good for lifting floors and hacking lumps out of plasterboard.
Will it cut neatly too? From the (classic JML) video, it looks like
the Exakt will cut tiles neatly.
Cheers,
David.
David Robinson
wrote:
> Id remove everything and go for 19mm waterproof ply and about 6mm of
> flexible adhesive.
>
> If the floor is flexible, removing allows you to double up joists and
> herringbone it if necessary.
>
> Herringbone really helps a great deal with decent depth joists.
>
> And whilst it takes time, its bloody simple
That's a great idea - though there's not much room for extra joists,
never mind herringbone, because of the number of pipes running through
there. Might be able to do something though.
Cheers,
David.
David Robinson
> On 17/05/10 10:39, David Robinson wrote:
>
> > I've used google groups to check previous answers to these questions
> > in this group, which has raised some new questions! ...
>
> > I've got a wrecked (damp) chipboard floor (in the utility) that I need
> > to replace. I was thinking of laying floorboards to make it easier to
> > take up parts for access later on - sensible or stupid?
>
> Sensible unless you are going to lay vinyl over, in which case you will
> need to overlay hardboard to prevent the floorboards showing through.
Damn, yes, vinyl (or lino, or whatever!)
> You could lay smaller sheets of ply, well screwed down, say 3 joists
> square which should be a reasonable compromise.
Might as well I suppose - floorboard then ply/mdf seems pointless
here.
> > I want to run new cables down dot and dab walls. If I can feed them
> > down the cavity, I will, but where I can't, is it OK to just cut a
> > trench in the plasterboard? I'm worried that it'll crack when filled.
> > Any tips?
>
> You'll end up going right through the board, so yes, it will probably crack.
>
> You could cut out a wider strip, insert conduit, and repair the strip
> (see the Wiki), using scrim tape over the joints - but you'll need to
> feather some jointer filler over somehow.
Oh blimey - you mean repair it like a damaged section (which I suppose
it will be!)?
Thanks.
David.
John Rumm
SF do metal herringbone that takes up very little space...
John Rumm
> On 17 May, 13:49, John Rumm<see.my.signat...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>>> I want to run new cables down dot and dab walls. If I can feed them
>>> down the cavity, I will, but where I can't, is it OK to just cut a
>>> trench in the plasterboard? I'm worried that it'll crack when filled.
>>> Any tips?
>>
>> As long as the edges can't flap about you should be ok. Probably easier
>> to hide if you scrim over and the PB is also skimmed.
>
> It's an existing room, so already skimmed - won't be doing it again,
> so it's just a case of filling and "hoping" it doesn't crack. Worried
> about movement where the plasterboard has been cut.
So back fill with bonding plaster - some will squidge under the free
edge of board and support it. Fill just under flush, and then another
coat of wither board fill or multifinish to make good. Sand if required.
>>> There's a new (expensive) version of the Exakt Saw out, with a 26mm
>>> cut...
>>> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exakt-saw-DC270-Brand-Deep/dp/B003DXTTLM
>>> ....the old 12mm version has been discussed here before. Will this 26mm
>>> version be good for cutting (existing) floorboards, chipboard
>>> flooring, plasterboard / walls, etc? I use my jigsaw for floorboards
>>
>> Well given that most of those are<= 26mm then it sounds like it ought to.
>>
>>> at the moment, good old hammer and chisel (sometimes Stanley knife
>>> first) for plasterboard / walls, and circular saw for chipboard floors
>>> - but maybe this new tool will be more convenient for all of these
>>> jobs? Don't like spend money, but if it's quicker and safer, it might
>>> be worth it.
>>
>> If spending that sort of money, I would get a multimaster. That's very
>> good for lifting floors and hacking lumps out of plasterboard.
>
> Will it cut neatly too? From the (classic JML) video, it looks like
> the Exakt will cut tiles neatly.
Yup if you have a steady hand! (or cut against a straight edge). I put a
new socket in the kitchen the other day - just marked out the outline of
the metal backbox on the tiles, stuck the carbide segment saw on it, and
followed the line freehand to cut a neat rectangle through the tiles.
Followed up with the SDS to remove the cut out section and brickwork
behind. The box slotted in with a nice even margin round the edge.
For lifting floor boards, I normally plunge cut right over a joist
(taking care to dodge the nails). If I need to cut where there is no
joist at one end, then a plunge cut at 45 degrees at the unsupported
edge will let to replace the board such that the free edge is still
supported - something I expect would be tricky with an exact saw.
The Natural Philosopher
And you can work herringbone around pipes It doesn't take a huge strain
- even 1x1 works.
Do mark joist centers on the ply before nailing into the plumbing...
> Cheers,
> David.
The Natural Philosopher
> On 17/05/2010 23:03, David Robinson wrote:
>> On 17 May, 10:48, The Natural Philosopher<t...@invalid.invalid>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Id remove everything and go for 19mm waterproof ply and about 6mm of
>>> flexible adhesive.
>>>
>>> If the floor is flexible, removing allows you to double up joists and
>>> herringbone it if necessary.
>>>
>>> Herringbone really helps a great deal with decent depth joists.
>>>
>>> And whilst it takes time, its bloody simple
>>
>> That's a great idea - though there's not much room for extra joists,
>> never mind herringbone, because of the number of pipes running through
>> there. Might be able to do something though.
>
> SF do metal herringbone that takes up very little space...
>
d...@gglz.com
> SF do metal herringbone that takes up very little space...
I've used it, and whilst it's cheap to buy and quick to use, IME it's
not the equal of timber (as solid noggins or herringbones), and not so
great when you've got non-standard joist spacings.
OTOH because it's so quick and easy, nothing stopping you from adding
extra rows beyond building regs requirements.