On 09/02/2012 17:58, Harry Davis wrote:
> Hi and thanks to everyone who's replied.
> Roger Mills<watt....@gmail.com
> wrote in
>> Having watched a few carpet fitters at work, I do the following -
>> which seems to work fairly well:
>> Cut the carpet so that it's a few inches (maybe 4" - 100mm) oversize
>> on each edge, so that the extra stands vertically against the skirting
>> Use a blunt bolster chisel to force the carpet into the gap between
>> gripper and skirting, thus forming a sharp crease.
> Just to check that I understand this right: does this mean that the gap
> between gripper and wall should be less than the height of the gripper?
They're roughly the same. The thicker the carpet, the larger the gap
needs to be, but 1/4" is usually about right.
> So narrow that when you force the carpet into the gap it goes down and
> then straight back up again, i.e. you've creased it once at 90 degrees
> and then folded it at 180 degrees, and you cut along the 180 degree fold?
Yes - so the carpet comes over the gripper, and then down into a V
shape, and up against the skirting. This is quite easy to achieve by
pushing a 3" bolter chisel into the gap. You don't need to hit the
chisel with a hammer, but you do need to 'jab' it down by hand (nothing
> Excuse my ignorance, but do you take it out of the gap to cut it?
No, you cut it in situ, with the Stanley knife at about 45 degrees, with
the point aiming at the intersection of the floor and skirting - so
you're cutting into the inverted apex of the V. When you remove the
offcut, there will be a *slight* gap between the edge of the carpet and
the skirting. This is where you use the knee kicker to stretch the
carpet so that the edge is slightly compressed against the skirting, and
use the bolster to push the edge downwards. You'll then get a perfect
fit against the skirting.
The cutting operation might have scored the skirting slightly, but any
cuts will be below finished carpet level, and won't show.