I`ve got the job of fitting shelves into an alcove that is not 100%
square.( ie the back dimension is several centimetres less than the
front dimension)
I seem to remember hearing about a tip on how to measure the gap
accurately and transferring the measurements to the shelf , so that
when it is cut/sawn , it produces a snug fit. ( I think that this tip
involved using a tape measure and pieces of card.)
Anyone know what the "trick-of-the-trade "tip is it to make a snug fit?
Scott
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Hi Scott..
Pretty easy actually. 2 pieces of card the same depth as your shelf
(front to back) and about 4 inches wide. Trim down one edge of each
card so that it snugly fits against each side of the alcove yet is
still sqaure along the front and back edges.
Measure the distance between each side of the front of the alcove.
Transfer this to your shelve and place each bit of card onto your
shelf matching up the front edges with the measured distance. Pencil
the shape in and cut. You will most likely have to put the shelve in
at an angle and rotate it to the horizontal.
Alternatively, if the width of the alcove increases uniformily front
to back, simply measure the front distance, the distance at the back
of the alcove, transfer these to the shelf and join up with a straight
line.
Finally, you can rough fit the shelf so it is too big for the alcove
and then using a block plane, stanley knife and sandpaper, carve the
shape of the alcove into the shelf ends and ensure it's a snug fit.
Good luck
Thankyou very much for the information.
I`ll try that and see if it works ( it should do ?)
Have fun, if all else fails make sure you put books right at the ends of
each shelf to hide the gaps!!
[fitting shelf to alcove]
>Assuming that the walls are running at a constant angle, but just not
>square, measure the distance at the back of the alcove. Then use a sliding
>bevel, I think that's what you call them, to take the angle of run out of
>the wall.
A sliding bevel gauge. It is a good idea to try a dry run with a piece of
cardboard or similar. You may need to surform to fit because the walls in
alcoves are often not straight as well as tapered. They often taper
top-to-bottom, so each shelf is a subtly different shape, so it is wise
to number them temporarily.
>Transfer this angle to your piece of shelving, repeat for the
>other side. Bob's your uncle. The tricky stuff comes if you need to scribe
>the shelf for the wall going in and out.
Actually, this is the easy bit. Use a draughtsman's compass or dividers, held
at right angles to the back wall to mark the profile on the wood, saw out the
appropriate bit, and it should fit snugly.
John Schmitt
--
Since when are the musings of a talk show host a cite?
- Daniel Ucko lays it bare
Disclaimers apply
Steve
> Finally, you can rough fit the shelf so it is too big for the alcove
> and then using a block plane, stanley knife and sandpaper, carve the
> shape of the alcove into the shelf ends and ensure it's a snug fit.
I've used silicone bath sealant to fill irregular gaps - eg when a shelf
is mounted in front of a woodchip-type wallpaper. Of course that's not
sensible if you expect to have to move the shelf...
--
Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own.
Yes your right this is easy for the back. I was talking more about scribing
each end as being tricky!