Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the size of
your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some are dented
plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller but with the
ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this. What else can I use?
Wickes do a 1700 grade lining paper but its expensive for such a small roll,
does anyone know where I can get it cheaper? Havent seen over 1000 in B&Q.
Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.
How much is expensive?
Funny that £4.19 for 1700 grade is dear even for wickes,my local wallpaper
shop does it for £2.75..1700 grade.
You could buy a bag of "Dry Wall Adhesive" Sammy but its about £4.95 a large
bag and can be used like polyfilla but dries rock hard and at the same time
it can sanded easily and has good solid adhesion properties.
Thing is you will have more than enough to do quite a few walls . ;-)
> Think that's it for now folks sorry for the numerous questions.
As long as you move forwards after every answer, It is not a problem.
oops! sorry sammy forget this as its the wrong stuff,tis not dry wall
Cant see it on wickes?
For a heavy load your only practical solutions are to either gripfill a
larger plywood board to the wall and then fix to the centre of that, or to
fit the rack with screws directly into a yimber behind the plasterboard.
No pb fixing will resist a prolonged load on a levered coathook, imho.
> Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the
> size of your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some
> are dented plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller
> but with the ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this.
> What else can I use?
Get a scrap of plasterboard, hardboard or plywood which you can fit through
the hole and press against it from the inside (eg post it like a letter, and
then turn it flsuh with the wall once it's inside). Butter the sides with
filler or no-nails, and pull it firmly into place *on the inside*. You may
need to rig a temporary support until it sets. Then you only need to fill
the 12mm depth of the board, and it will be stronger too.
Yes, I think that too.
'One coat' or repair plaster - the sheds sell it in just about manageable
bags for the same sort of price as pollyfilla, but for a much larger
quantity. There are instructions for use on the bag - it's pretty easy.
*The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Plastering is not everyones cup of tea though. ;-)
> Plastering is not everyones cup of tea though. ;-)
If you follow the instructions most will make a good job of patching a
hole - it's probably easier than with polyfilla. I agree large repairs can
*It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size.
> Tried my normal rawplugs and it wasnt beefy enough to hold my coat hangers
> (4 on a piece of wood) Tried an anchor, that too pulled through the
> plasterboard. I wonder what else I can use that may do it. The coats are
> heavy, granted but i would have thought the heavy duty anchors would have
> sufficed. Its PB on both sides so no solid wall to attach to. Also with
> under the stais being sloped I cannot fix into the batton behind, would
> gripfill do? Any ideas folks?
Ideally screwing into a stud rather than the PB. Another solution if
that is not possible is using a batten on the wall behind the hooks to
spread the load and if possible allow attachment to a stud that way. You
can even in extremis cut out a section of PB and replace with half inch
ply. That will take a much better screwed fixing. It would probably need
skimming to finish though.
> Also I need to repair some PB that has largish holes in, as in the size of
> your hand holes. They havent gone all the way through, some are dented
> plasterboard some holes. I am currently using Polyfiller but with the
> ammount I need it will be expensive to do it with this. What else can I use?
Board fill is cheaper and sands easily - that will deal with the dents.
For the holes, cut a patch piece larger than the hole and draw round it.
Cut away the edges of the broken section of wall leaving a patch sized
hole. The traditional way to hold the patch in place is with a batten or
two inserted into the wall and screwed to the back surface of the PB via
drywall screws through the front. The new bit can in turn be screwed to
A more modern version is the "Bear claw" drywall clip. These fit on the
edge of the patch and allow you to simply push it into the hole, where
they then grip the edge of the hole. They have the advantage of allowing
you to use 1/2" PB to fix any hole regardless of the actual thickness of
board used on the wall.
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
Never seen them before, but if the patch is flush with the existing PB you
have the clips protruding on the face of both - how can you caver them up?
"The clip is made of 0.38mm (0.015") thick metal (about the thickness of a
corner bead), so it is easy to cover with joint compound. "
I don't think so.....
Dave - The Medway Handyman
IME fixing even one coathook to PB is impractical. Yes it fixes ok,
and yes it works... but over a year or 2 the pb gradually crumbles
till the hook comes loose. PB just isnt strong enough. You need to fix
your 4 hook rack to something more solid somehow, else I cant see it
Good suggestions already made. One thing I've never tried is sticking
a few sheets of PB behind a hole so you get a thick fairly solid area
a couple of inches deep to fix into.
> Never seen them before, but if the patch is flush with the existing PB you
> have the clips protruding on the face of both - how can you caver them up?
> "The clip is made of 0.38mm (0.015") thick metal (about the thickness of a
> corner bead), so it is easy to cover with joint compound. "
> I don't think so.....
I presume if patching a already skimmed wall, one would cut away a small
section of skim in the clip positions.
Bit corny, but:
Sammy are you willing to do this?....
Position the coathanger on the wall were its going to be,level it up with a
spirit level or eyesight? draw round the coathanger before taking it away.
I presume the coathanger is about 14" to 16" long? within the drawn
rectangle on the PB cut out a 6" long rectangle and almost the width of the
Now get a piece of 2x2 wood batten about the lenght of the coathanger and
put a piece of string around the 2x2 batten,shove the 2x2 batten in the hole
so that the wood goes behind the PB and pull the wood against the inside of
the PB with the string try to line it up with the cutout as best you can
then screw 2 or 3 screws through the PB and into the 2x2 wood batten on both
sides of the cutout.
Cut a piece of PB slightly smaller than the cutout and screw to batten then
fill in any discrepancies.
Screw coathanger onto PB and through into the wood batten. ;-)
If the rest are on straight walls e.g. not at an angle then any stress wil
be straight down. Use a couple of expanding anchors
Cover the base peice of wood with grab adhesive & tighten up the anchors.
After an hour it wil be easier to pull a sailor off your sister.