Trianco Boiler Cutting Out Constantly
technics100
Hi
I have a trianco eurotrader boiler, in a external boiler house. I had
the oil pump, motor and photocell replaced approx one month ago after
the boiler wouldn't work. Since then the boiler has continued to trip
every once and a while. Now it it tripping after a couple of minutes.
I have had a look at the forum and have taken the plug out of the water
pump to see if it is turning - it is turning but I can't see if it is
pumping alot of water. Should alot of water come out of this hole when
the pump is running and the plug is out? If I press the button on the
trip the boiler fires up and works for a short period then trip again.
Any help is appreciated as I have already spent £190 on the above items
and am weary of the person who fixed the boiler. I don't know whether
to believe him or not.
cheers
--
technics100
John
"technics100" <technics1...@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:technics1...@news.diybanter.com...
Is the oil supply restricted by a blocked oil filter or a mostly closed
valve?
Is the fuel contaminated with water?
If its tripping the lockout on the burner it will not be the heated water
system which is causing it.
Which make of burner is fitted to the boiler since Trianco use several types
such as Riello, Inter-oil, RDB, Monoflame etc etc. Certainly if you have
already had a new motor, oil pump, and photocell there is a limited number
of possible other alternatives provided the parts fitted were new.
Can you describe exactly what happens step by step from starting to lockout
along with the timing.
As a guide the burner motor should start to rotate, run for a few seconds
driving the fan to purge the combustion chamber clear with fresh air, The
ignition spark will commence and then the oil solenoid valve will open
usually with an audible click. At this point you should hear the flame
ignite. The light of the flame will illuminate the photocell which informs
the sequence control box it is healthy. The ignition spark stops and the
burner continues to run until the thermostat is satisfied or the power is
removed. If no flame light is seen within about 10 seconds the burner stops
and the sequence control goes to lockout. This varies but it will not reset
straight away on most sequence controllers, requiring a few minutes to allow
an internal timer to reset
technics100
The boiler does everything as you describe and will run from cold until
it get hot and then it seems to trip. It trips a transparent box which
lights amber, I just press the button in the middle of this box and the
light goes out, the boiler starts and runs until it trips again. trips
sooner when its hot
I was reading this forum and around the net and thought that the central
heating pump wasn't pumping the hot water away from the boiler quick
enough thus causing it to trip. I left the boiler on a very low temp
setting all day and it has been running fine for approx 14hrs. Is there
any way to check the pump, to make sure its pumping at the right speed.
its a Grundfos UPS15-50. Any suggestion is appreciated.
cheers
--
technics100
John
"technics100" <technics1...@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:technics1...@news.diybanter.com...
>
SNIP
>
>
> The boiler does everything as you describe and will run from cold until
> it get hot and then it seems to trip. It trips a transparent box which
> lights amber, I just press the button in the middle of this box and the
> light goes out, the boiler starts and runs until it trips again. trips
> sooner when its hot
Thr transparent box will probably say Sartronic 830 or something similar on
it and this is the sequence control which operates the burner and monitors
the flame when a heat demand is present. You still haven't told me what make
the burner is but using a Sartronic suggests you may have an Inter-Oil
burner unit with a Danfoss oil pump (the black block thing with the oil pipe
going in). If you do then depending on the age it will probably have a
solenoid coil mounted on a shaft. One fairly common failure mode found of
late is for these coils to go open circuit when hot but remake when cooled
by an indeterminate amount taking anything from a couple of minutes to
several hours for the problem to occur. Its sheer indeterminate period often
makes it very difficult to pin down. Other makes of fuel pump are also used
so all I can reiterate is please give full details of your burner and oil
pump etc. BTW have you checked the oil filter yet and was there any coating
of sediment/muck on the element?
>
> I was reading this forum and around the net and thought that the central
> heating pump wasn't pumping the hot water away from the boiler quick
> enough thus causing it to trip. I left the boiler on a very low temp
> setting all day and it has been running fine for approx 14hrs. Is there
> any way to check the pump, to make sure its pumping at the right speed.
> its a Grundfos UPS15-50. Any suggestion is appreciated.
Not all boilers have an overheat trip and in general all the overheat trip
will do is remove all power from the boiler panel thus "usually" the power
on light and others are simply dead along with the boiler until the overheat
stat is manually reset. The lockout button has no connection with the
thermostat system. This does suggest howver that the burner will fire for
shorter run periods and whatever is causing the lockouts is not getting the
same energised periods and avoiding the thermal effects.
technics100
Hi
The sequential control is indeed a Sartronic 830, I dont know where the
burner is, The oil pump is Danfoss Type BFP 11LS, the motor is bentone
with a box above it which is Danfoss Type EBI.
Where is the oil filter and how do I check it? also how do I check for
contanination in the oil? Where is the solenoid?
sorry about all the questions but I am new to this.
cheers for your help
--
technics100
John
"technics100" <technics1...@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:technics1...@news.diybanter.com...
>
>
> The sequential control is indeed a Sartronic 830, I dont know where the
> burner is, The oil pump is Danfoss Type BFP 11LS, the motor is bentone
> with a box above it which is Danfoss Type EBI.
The EB1 electronic ignition generator could be a prime suspect especially
with thermal effects being suspected. Since you said in an earlier post the
oil pump was new this should be out of the loop for tracking this fault.
Presumably the motor capacitor is integral with the motor but if not this is
another possible option especially if you can watch the unit for some time
and maybe catch it being sluggish to start the motor spinning.
>
> Where is the oil filter and how do I check it? also how do I check for
> contanination in the oil? Where is the solenoid?
The solenoid is the bit with the flex connected to it on the oil pump
discharge. The oil filter is usually on the outlet from the oil tank but
sometimes inside the house or boiler casing. To carry out a basic check on
the fuel system try shutting the oil supply valve, disconnect the oil pipe
from the pump, put the end into a clear (clean) bottle at least 2 litres,
turn on the oil and run about 1.5 litres of oil in to check that it flows
freely and fast enough to satisfy a usage rate of about 5 or 6 litres per
hour for every 1000 BTU of boiler rating.
Turn off and restore the connections.
Allow the sample in the bottle to stand and look to see if you can see any
water lying in the bottom of the bottle (under the fuel) or any debris of
any kind. Then dip a small piece of rag into the liquied, take it outside
and light it in a safe place. If it burns easily you should be ok on that
front.
technics100
I had the boiler guy out today to have a look at it. He said that the
oil had water in it, but couldn't see where it was getting in. The oil
line runs underground for a few meters, so it may have a hole in it and
be taking in water. He replaced the jet and said it was soaked with
water. Boiler is running now, but I just have to find out where the
water is getting in.
--
technics100
Rod Hewitt
news:technics1...@news.diybanter.com:
Condensation within the storage tank? Seems more likely than water pushing
its way into a pipe.
--
Rod
John
"technics100" <technics1...@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:technics1...@news.diybanter.com...
>
The usual place for water to get in to oil is via the top of the tank which
someone has stood upon causing the "dishing" to collect rainwater which
eventually rust through. Other places possible are sight gauges which have
lost their rain cap and are located under a leaking gutter, tank lids which
fit poorly and are under a leaking gutter also.
Is your tank located where someone you could have upset might find it
entertaining to put a hose into it?
Its a very remote possibility that you might have had a contaminated load
delivered but I'd put this a long way behind any other sources.
If your tank is set up correctly it should slope away from the outlet and
have a drain at the low end. If you have one, run some off from here into a
bucket and check visually and by dipping a bit of cloth for a burnability
test for water ( I went to a tank last year which had been vandalised and
found clear liquid for a depth of about 200mm but it wouldn't burn, after a
lot of draining off this underlying water eventually fuel arrived). Its
often possible to get rid of any water collected in the tank via this
method, in fact in days of old it was normal to do this as part of a six
monthly service, usually blaming water found on condensation rather than the
real source of refinery contamination. Modern production and storage methods
have all but stopped water being delivered in the fuel.
johnje...@gmail.com
Tim+
Tim
johnje...@gmail.com
Andy Burns
reader and a proper news server, i.e. straight to the horse's mouth
<http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Newsgroup_access_tips>
You replying with a "one liner" with no quoted material doesn't really
help anyone ... other than they could lookup the article-ids in your
references header.
johnje...@gmail.com
John Rumm
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/uk.d-i-y/Trianco$20Boiler$20Cutting$20Out$20Constantly/uk.d-i-y/jkmwiRv_PK8/qkPkGE2_ZccJ
--
Cheers,
John.
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Fredxxx
and you still go against Usenet convention.
Your reply is possibly over 11 years late, don't you think the problem
would have been solved by now, one way or another?
John Rumm
information in that old thread would be relevant to a recent one - not
attempting to post new information to it.
The delivery of the message may have been flawed, but in this occasion
it does not warrant the shooting of the messenger!