Leveling over old marley tiles

[Jimzzr]

Hi,

I have a hallway that has marley vinyl tiles (orig. floor/early 70’s property) which have started to lift near the front door where they have got damp, but are pretty well attached everywhere else. Floor is concrete and tiles ca 2mm stuck with bitumen.

Can I just the remove the 1.5 m2 or so that are affected and then seal (SBR?) and apply a levelling compound over both the still tiled and now untilled section? What levelling compound would be best? Don’t really want to try to remove all the tiles as I understand they may have some, albeit pretty immobile, asbestos.

Not too sure what I'm going to replace the floor with, but possibly click together vinyl tiles e.g. quick step alpha.

Thanks

Jim

[Andrew]

No Nairn still make marmoleum in click-together tile format ?.

(Effectively old fashioned lino on a 10mm HDF t&G substrate).

[John Rumm]

On 23/11/2022 16:50, Jimzzr wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a hallway that has marley vinyl tiles (orig. floor/early 70’s
> property) which have started to lift near the front door where they
> have got damp, but are pretty well attached everywhere else. Floor is
> concrete and tiles ca 2mm stuck with bitumen.
>
> Can I just the remove the 1.5 m2 or so that are affected and then
> seal (SBR?) and apply a levelling compound over both the still tiled
> and now untilled section? What levelling compound would be best?
> Don’t really want to try to remove all the tiles as I understand they
> may have some, albeit pretty immobile, asbestos.

I would go with a latex self levelling... IME the Wickes one is ok -
just mix with water, chuck in place and screed out roughly level. If you
want one that is almost water like in its self levelling capabilities,
then ISTR someone recommending the Farrow & Ball ones like Stopgap 300.

> Not too sure what I'm going to replace the floor with, but possibly
> click together vinyl tiles e.g. quick step alpha.

Karndean is quite realistic looking - although it needs gluing down.
This was a rustic oak version:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/5/53/EnsuiteBath1.jpg

--
Cheers,

John.

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[John Rumm]

On 23/11/2022 23:30, John Rumm wrote:
> On 23/11/2022 16:50, Jimzzr wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have a hallway that has marley vinyl tiles (orig. floor/early 70’s
>> property) which have started to lift near the front door where they
>> have got damp, but are pretty well attached everywhere else. Floor is
>> concrete and tiles ca 2mm stuck with bitumen.
>>
>> Can I just the remove the 1.5 m2 or so that are affected and then
>> seal (SBR?) and apply a levelling compound over both the still tiled
>> and now untilled section?  What levelling compound would be best?
>> Don’t really want to try to remove all the tiles as I understand they
>> may have some, albeit pretty immobile, asbestos.
>
> I would go with a latex self levelling... IME the Wickes one is ok -
> just mix with water, chuck in place and screed out roughly level. If you
> want one that is almost water like in its self levelling capabilities,
> then ISTR someone recommending the Farrow & Ball ones like Stopgap 300.

Sorry my bad: F Ball and Co - not the same as Farrow and Ball:

https://f-ball.com/en/about-us/

[Brian Gaff]

Rather apt for Christmas, Pity they aware all stuck down, as you might
experience Marleys ghost tiles soon!

Sorry, That old Charles Dickens has a lot to answer for.


I seem to recall those tiles were stuck down with an adhesive that smelled
like thin Evo Stik to me, and made you feel squiffy if you did not take
some fresh air every few minutes.
Brian

--

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"Jimzzr" <jim...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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[GB]

On 23/11/2022 23:30, John Rumm wrote:

> On 23/11/2022 16:50, Jimzzr wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have a hallway that has marley vinyl tiles (orig. floor/early 70’s
>> property) which have started to lift near the front door where they
>> have got damp, but are pretty well attached everywhere else. Floor is
>> concrete and tiles ca 2mm stuck with bitumen.
>>
>> Can I just the remove the 1.5 m2 or so that are affected and then
>> seal (SBR?) and apply a levelling compound over both the still tiled
>> and now untilled section?  What levelling compound would be best?
>> Don’t really want to try to remove all the tiles as I understand they
>> may have some, albeit pretty immobile, asbestos.
>
> I would go with a latex self levelling... IME the Wickes one is ok -
> just mix with water, chuck in place and screed out roughly level. If you
> want one that is almost water like in its self levelling capabilities,
> then ISTR someone recommending the Farrow & Ball ones like Stopgap 300.
>
>> Not too sure what I'm going to replace the floor with, but possibly
>> click together vinyl tiles e.g. quick step alpha.
>
> Karndean is quite realistic looking - although it needs gluing down.
> This was a rustic oak version:
>
> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/5/53/EnsuiteBath1.jpg
>

Do you need a roller for stick down LVT, and are they expensive?

[GB]

On 23/11/2022 23:43, John Rumm wrote:
> On 23/11/2022 23:30, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 23/11/2022 16:50, Jimzzr wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I have a hallway that has marley vinyl tiles (orig. floor/early 70’s
>>> property) which have started to lift near the front door where they
>>> have got damp, but are pretty well attached everywhere else. Floor is
>>> concrete and tiles ca 2mm stuck with bitumen.
>>>
>>> Can I just the remove the 1.5 m2 or so that are affected and then
>>> seal (SBR?) and apply a levelling compound over both the still tiled
>>> and now untilled section?  What levelling compound would be best?
>>> Don’t really want to try to remove all the tiles as I understand they
>>> may have some, albeit pretty immobile, asbestos.
>>
>> I would go with a latex self levelling... IME the Wickes one is ok -
>> just mix with water, chuck in place and screed out roughly level. If
>> you want one that is almost water like in its self levelling
>> capabilities, then ISTR someone recommending the Farrow & Ball ones
>> like Stopgap 300.
>
> Sorry my bad: F Ball and Co - not the same as Farrow and Ball:
>
> https://f-ball.com/en/about-us/

I was thinking the compound would cost more than the house. :)

[John Rumm]

On 24/11/2022 17:00, GB wrote:
> On 23/11/2022 23:43, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 23/11/2022 23:30, John Rumm wrote:
>>> On 23/11/2022 16:50, Jimzzr wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> I have a hallway that has marley vinyl tiles (orig. floor/early 70’s
>>>> property) which have started to lift near the front door where they
>>>> have got damp, but are pretty well attached everywhere else. Floor is
>>>> concrete and tiles ca 2mm stuck with bitumen.
>>>>
>>>> Can I just the remove the 1.5 m2 or so that are affected and then
>>>> seal (SBR?) and apply a levelling compound over both the still tiled
>>>> and now untilled section?  What levelling compound would be best?
>>>> Don’t really want to try to remove all the tiles as I understand they
>>>> may have some, albeit pretty immobile, asbestos.
>>>
>>> I would go with a latex self levelling... IME the Wickes one is ok -
>>> just mix with water, chuck in place and screed out roughly level. If
>>> you want one that is almost water like in its self levelling
>>> capabilities, then ISTR someone recommending the Farrow & Ball ones
>>> like Stopgap 300.
>>
>> Sorry my bad: F Ball and Co - not the same as Farrow and Ball:
>>
>> https://f-ball.com/en/about-us/
>
> I was thinking the compound would cost more than the house. :)

It would be a nice heritage colour though :-)

[John Rumm]

You can get two types of glue - one that is pressure sensitive with an
instant bond, and another more traditional glue that allows a bit of
sliding about. A roller is a necessity for the pressure sensitive glue,
but helps with both. The pro fitters tend to use a very heavy floor
roller which is wide and will do a large area quickly. The largest ones
are up to 68kg and shall we say, "quite pricey" at north of £600!

I found something like:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtico-karndean-floor-wall-roller/dp/B009G7PCT2

Was more than adequate for a smaller room. (the smaller roller width,
and the side handle makes it easy to get adequate pressure onto the surface)

I used the repositionable glue. With hindsight I would have gone for the
instant grab one since there is no danger of anything shifting after you
have laid it.

[Jimzzr]

> >> Karndean is quite realistic looking - although it needs gluing down.
> >> This was a rustic oak version:
> >>
> >> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/5/53/EnsuiteBath1.jpg
> >>
> >
> > Do you need a roller for stick down LVT, and are they expensive?
> You can get two types of glue - one that is pressure sensitive with an
> instant bond, and another more traditional glue that allows a bit of
> sliding about. A roller is a necessity for the pressure sensitive glue,
> but helps with both. The pro fitters tend to use a very heavy floor
> roller which is wide and will do a large area quickly. The largest ones
> are up to 68kg and shall we say, "quite pricey" at north of £600!
>
> I found something like:
>
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtico-karndean-floor-wall-roller/dp/B009G7PCT2
>
> Was more than adequate for a smaller room. (the smaller roller width,
> and the side handle makes it easy to get adequate pressure onto the surface)
>
> I used the repositionable glue. With hindsight I would have gone for the
> instant grab one since there is no danger of anything shifting after you
> have laid it.
> --

This is the type of flooring I was kind of thinking of

https://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/product/18506/quickstep_alpha_botanic_grey_vinyl_flooring?tmsb=pubql7a&tmrl=e2vm923&tmsl=recently-viewed-category-page-web-recommendation-master&tmty=w&tmcv=8&tmcs=mf52bfp