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Headlight (low beam) not working (Nissan Tino 1.8, 2001)
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JD
Dec 3, 2015, 9:28:53 AM12/3/15
to
Car electrics... gha!
The offside low beam headlight on my Noosan Tino 1.8, 2001 has stopped
working
I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
I checcked for voltage to the connectors. There is no voltage at the
connectors when the headlights are switched on.
I found two 15A fuses. one labeled headlight/L and headlight/R. They appear
fine and I swapped them over and there was no difference.
The Haynes manual lighting circuit diagram shows a headlight relay, but
doesn't tell me where it is located.
I found a ralay named MAIN inder the bonnet in a nearside fusebox, but it's
not the main beam that has quit. There are other relays in the same fusebox
but none of thjem are labeleled 'healight'.
Can anyone tell if there is an offside low beam relay and where it is
located?
There is a box offside in the engine compartment with a few relays but it
doesn't say what they are. And they do not pull out easily. They are so
securely in place, I was afraid I'd break something if I forced them free.
There are a couple of relays hidden behind the facia under the steering
wheel.
Also, I was surprised to find no 'headlight relay' for a Nissan Tino being
offered on eBay.
Many thanks,
JD
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 3, 2015, 11:30:51 AM12/3/15
to
In article <XnsA565934CA2...@130.133.4.11>,
I'd be surprised if it used two relays for dip beam. No reason they'd be
on separately. Of course if it has a CAN bus system, all bets are off.
--
*7up is good for you, signed snow white*
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
on separately. Of course if it has a CAN bus system, all bets are off.
--
*7up is good for you, signed snow white*
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Brian-Gaff
Dec 3, 2015, 3:45:03 PM12/3/15
to
Not being a car electrics expert, but if the normal beam works, checking the
fuses you checked is hardly going to be the place to look. I'd have though
that they would be only switching a single pole in any case so maybe one
needs to be a bit more discriminating when following the wiring.
Id be first tempted to look for exposed wires that might have suffered
some damage before giving up though.
Brian
--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"JD" <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote in message
news:XnsA565934CA2...@130.133.4.11...
fuses you checked is hardly going to be the place to look. I'd have though
that they would be only switching a single pole in any case so maybe one
needs to be a bit more discriminating when following the wiring.
Id be first tempted to look for exposed wires that might have suffered
some damage before giving up though.
Brian
--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"JD" <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote in message
news:XnsA565934CA2...@130.133.4.11...
Andrew Gabriel
Dec 3, 2015, 4:11:55 PM12/3/15
to
In article <XnsA565934CA2...@130.133.4.11>,
I've owned and friend's cars I've repaired.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> writes:
>
> Car electrics... gha!
>
> The offside low beam headlight on my Noosan Tino 1.8, 2001 has stopped
> working
>
> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
>
> I checcked for voltage to the connectors. There is no voltage at the
> connectors when the headlights are switched on.
>
> I found two 15A fuses. one labeled headlight/L and headlight/R. They appear
> fine and I swapped them over and there was no difference.
>
> The Haynes manual lighting circuit diagram shows a headlight relay, but
> doesn't tell me where it is located.
Check the handbook. That info has been in the handbook for all cars
>
> Car electrics... gha!
>
> The offside low beam headlight on my Noosan Tino 1.8, 2001 has stopped
> working
>
> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
>
> I checcked for voltage to the connectors. There is no voltage at the
> connectors when the headlights are switched on.
>
> I found two 15A fuses. one labeled headlight/L and headlight/R. They appear
> fine and I swapped them over and there was no difference.
>
> The Haynes manual lighting circuit diagram shows a headlight relay, but
> doesn't tell me where it is located.
I've owned and friend's cars I've repaired.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
newshound
Dec 3, 2015, 4:38:15 PM12/3/15
to
certainly know!
Mrcheerful
Dec 3, 2015, 6:57:29 PM12/3/15
to
then the most likely fault is a blown headlamp fuse. Autodata is
incomplete regarding the fuse box contents, usually there will be one
fuse for each main beam and one for each dip beam, so 4 fuses in total.
if in doubt as to which is which, just check them all. Turn the
lights on and check for power on each side of every fuse, the fuse that
has power on one side and not the other is the one.
JD
Dec 4, 2015, 10:21:02 AM12/4/15
to
Mrcheerful <g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in
news:FF48y.429612$941....@fx34.am4:
Thanks for the replies everyone... I have found the correct fuse, but
it's intact. What I have now discovered is that there is no voltage
between one side of the fuse socket and the other. Does this indicate a
broken wire somewhere? If so, would it make sense to simply take a 2"
piece of wire with the ends stripped, and wedge one end into the positive
side of the nearside lowbeam fuse socket and then jam the other end into
the positive side of the offside lowbeam fuse socket - and then insert
the fuses, whichch would keep the wire securely in place at both ends?
Yes, it's a Jerry-rig solution, but it should work in theory, shouldn't
it? If you agree that thsi should work without any major problems, I'll
do that rather than spend what could be an eternity out in the cold
trying to trace the elusive break.
TIA
JD
news:FF48y.429612$941....@fx34.am4:
it's intact. What I have now discovered is that there is no voltage
between one side of the fuse socket and the other. Does this indicate a
broken wire somewhere? If so, would it make sense to simply take a 2"
piece of wire with the ends stripped, and wedge one end into the positive
side of the nearside lowbeam fuse socket and then jam the other end into
the positive side of the offside lowbeam fuse socket - and then insert
the fuses, whichch would keep the wire securely in place at both ends?
Yes, it's a Jerry-rig solution, but it should work in theory, shouldn't
it? If you agree that thsi should work without any major problems, I'll
do that rather than spend what could be an eternity out in the cold
trying to trace the elusive break.
TIA
JD
Graham J
Dec 4, 2015, 10:34:23 AM12/4/15
to
What you've written does not make sense. If you take the fuse out of
course one side of the fuse socket will have voltage - from the battery;
and the other side - to the light - will not.
So if the fuse is good it will carry the current from one side of its
socket to the other. What might be happening is that the fuse is not
connecting properly in the socket. Or that when mechanically stressed
by insertion into the socket it actually goes open-circuit. I suggest
you try a new fuse in its place.
--
Graham J
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 4, 2015, 11:13:52 AM12/4/15
to
In article <XnsA5669C2511...@130.133.4.11>,
> Does this indicate a broken wire somewhere?
Is there volts between the fuse and ground?
--
*I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't care.
JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the replies everyone... I have found the correct fuse, but
> it's intact. What I have now discovered is that there is no voltage
> between one side of the fuse socket and the other.
That would be correct if the fuse was good.
> Thanks for the replies everyone... I have found the correct fuse, but
> it's intact. What I have now discovered is that there is no voltage
> between one side of the fuse socket and the other.
> Does this indicate a broken wire somewhere?
--
*I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't care.
Norman Rowing
Dec 4, 2015, 11:18:21 AM12/4/15
to
at risk.
Tim Lamb
Dec 4, 2015, 1:44:04 PM12/4/15
to
In message <n3sbl9$9be$1...@dont-email.me>, Graham J <gra...@invalid.com>
writes
>
--
Tim Lamb
writes
>
>What you've written does not make sense. If you take the fuse out of
>course one side of the fuse socket will have voltage - from the
>battery; and the other side - to the light - will not.
>
>So if the fuse is good it will carry the current from one side of its
>socket to the other. What might be happening is that the fuse is not
>connecting properly in the socket. Or that when mechanically stressed
>by insertion into the socket it actually goes open-circuit. I suggest
>you try a new fuse in its place.
Or swap with the good one?
>What you've written does not make sense. If you take the fuse out of
>course one side of the fuse socket will have voltage - from the
>battery; and the other side - to the light - will not.
>
>So if the fuse is good it will carry the current from one side of its
>socket to the other. What might be happening is that the fuse is not
>connecting properly in the socket. Or that when mechanically stressed
>by insertion into the socket it actually goes open-circuit. I suggest
>you try a new fuse in its place.
>
--
Tim Lamb
Dave Liquorice
Dec 4, 2015, 4:28:07 PM12/4/15
to
On Fri, 4 Dec 2015 15:42:46 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:
>> What you've written does not make sense. If you take the fuse out
of
>> course one side of the fuse socket will have voltage - from the
>> battery; ...
>> What you've written does not make sense. If you take the fuse out
of
>> course one side of the fuse socket will have voltage - from the
When the lights are supposed to be on ...
>> ... and the other side - to the light - will not.
>> So if the fuse is good it will carry the current from one side of
its
>> socket to the other. What might be happening is that the fuse is
not
>> connecting properly in the socket. Or that when mechanically
stressed
>> by insertion into the socket it actually goes open-circuit. I
suggest
>> you try a new fuse in its place.
>
> Or swap with the good one?
same for a nw fuse of course. Is the OP checking the fuses visually?
It is sometimes not visually obvious that a fuse has blown, it needs
an elctrical test really.
--
Cheers
Dave.
stvl...@googlemail.com
Dec 4, 2015, 4:59:51 PM12/4/15
to
On Thursday, 3 December 2015 14:28:53 UTC, JD wrote:
> Car electrics... gha!
>
> The offside low beam headlight on my Noosan Tino 1.8, 2001 has stopped
> working
>
> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
What check did you make? Visual? Electrical?
> Car electrics... gha!
>
> The offside low beam headlight on my Noosan Tino 1.8, 2001 has stopped
> working
>
> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
Chris J Dixon
Dec 5, 2015, 4:29:19 AM12/5/15
to
Dave Liquorice wrote:
>Which may become a bad fuse if there is an overload in that circuit,
>same for a nw fuse of course. Is the OP checking the fuses visually?
>It is sometimes not visually obvious that a fuse has blown, it needs
>an electrical test really.
>Which may become a bad fuse if there is an overload in that circuit,
>same for a nw fuse of course. Is the OP checking the fuses visually?
>It is sometimes not visually obvious that a fuse has blown, it needs
When I had a intermittent earth fault in my car wiring, I
produced a very useful test lead. I took an old headlamp bulb
(well, the main beam filament is still OK, how could I throw it
away?) and soldered on a pair of leads with crock clips. In place
of the fuse which kept blowing I then connected this assembly.
Whilst all was well on the load side, the circuits worked as
normal, the bulb filament was still cold. When the faulty cable
touched earthed metal, the bulb glowed brightly, but there was no
dangerous overcurrent.
NB do this carefully, as the circuit is no longer protected.
Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
ch...@cdixon.me.uk
Plant amazing Acers.
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 4:59:54 AM12/5/15
to
stvl...@googlemail.com wrote in news:4a56e299-a5da-41b3-8d2a-df8077ea4ae3
@googlegroups.com:
>> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
>
>
> What check did you make? Visual? Electrical?
>
Ohm meter and visual. The Ohms reading indicates it has resistance, so the
filament must be intact, and it looks intact too.
JD
@googlegroups.com:
>> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
>
>
> What check did you make? Visual? Electrical?
>
filament must be intact, and it looks intact too.
JD
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 5:02:14 AM12/5/15
to
Tim Lamb <t...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote in news:244COuS2RbYWFw22
@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk:
>>So if the fuse is good it will carry the current from one side of its
>>socket to the other. What might be happening is that the fuse is not
>>connecting properly in the socket. Or that when mechanically stressed
>>by insertion into the socket it actually goes open-circuit. I suggest
>>you try a new fuse in its place.
>
> Or swap with the good one?
I did try that and it made no difference.
JD
@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk:
>>So if the fuse is good it will carry the current from one side of its
>>socket to the other. What might be happening is that the fuse is not
>>connecting properly in the socket. Or that when mechanically stressed
>>by insertion into the socket it actually goes open-circuit. I suggest
>>you try a new fuse in its place.
>
> Or swap with the good one?
JD
Mrcheerful
Dec 5, 2015, 5:10:56 AM12/5/15
to
powered side of the fuse holder direct to the deadlight, hunt down the
actual fault when the weather is better.
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 5:15:27 AM12/5/15
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:552cc6a...@davenoise.co.uk:
> In article <XnsA5669C2511...@130.133.4.11>,
> JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for the replies everyone... I have found the correct fuse, but
>> it's intact. What I have now discovered is that there is no voltage
>> between one side of the fuse socket and the other.
>
> That would be correct if the fuse was good.
>
>> Does this indicate a broken wire somewhere?
>
> Is there volts between the fuse and ground?
No, there is zero volts between the ssde of the fuse socket that is
supposed to be live, and ground.
JD
news:552cc6a...@davenoise.co.uk:
> In article <XnsA5669C2511...@130.133.4.11>,
> JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for the replies everyone... I have found the correct fuse, but
>> it's intact. What I have now discovered is that there is no voltage
>> between one side of the fuse socket and the other.
>
> That would be correct if the fuse was good.
>
>> Does this indicate a broken wire somewhere?
>
> Is there volts between the fuse and ground?
supposed to be live, and ground.
JD
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 5:17:38 AM12/5/15
to
"Dave Liquorice" <allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote in
news:nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk:
> Which may become a bad fuse if there is an overload in that circuit,
> same for a nw fuse of course. Is the OP checking the fuses visually?
> It is sometimes not visually obvious that a fuse has blown, it needs
> an elctrical test really.
The fuses are fine; I've swapped the left and right fuses over and one
headlight comes on and the other still doesn't, same as before.
JD
news:nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk:
> Which may become a bad fuse if there is an overload in that circuit,
> same for a nw fuse of course. Is the OP checking the fuses visually?
> It is sometimes not visually obvious that a fuse has blown, it needs
> an elctrical test really.
headlight comes on and the other still doesn't, same as before.
JD
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 5:42:32 AM12/5/15
to
Mrcheerful <g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in news:NKy8y.481307$wD3.212918
@fx45.am4:
>
> the simplest option is to make up a fused flylead that goes from the
> powered side of the fuse holder direct to the deadlight, hunt down the
> actual fault when the weather is better.
Thanks; I was thinking similar, but my idea is to solder a short lead from
the live side of the nearside headlight fuse holder to the supposedly live
(but not) side of the offside headlight fuse holder. That way, I'd have a
fuse between the battery positive and the headlight. That should be a
simple, effective fix, yes?
JD
@fx45.am4:
>
> the simplest option is to make up a fused flylead that goes from the
> powered side of the fuse holder direct to the deadlight, hunt down the
> actual fault when the weather is better.
the live side of the nearside headlight fuse holder to the supposedly live
(but not) side of the offside headlight fuse holder. That way, I'd have a
fuse between the battery positive and the headlight. That should be a
simple, effective fix, yes?
JD
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 5:45:28 AM12/5/15
to
JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote in
news:XnsA5676CECBA...@130.133.4.11:
.....or would that overload a relay or the healight switch?
news:XnsA5676CECBA...@130.133.4.11:
The Natural Philosopher
Dec 5, 2015, 5:47:13 AM12/5/15
to
Its almost certainly either a duff wire
joint or the relay for that bulb
--
the biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 5:51:06 AM12/5/15
to
Mrcheerful <g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in news:NKy8y.481307$wD3.212918
@fx45.am4:
> the simplest option is to make up a fused flylead that goes from the
> powered side of the fuse holder direct to the deadlight, hunt down the
> actual fault when the weather is better.
>
Thanks. The trouble is that the powered side of the fuse holder is dead,
even when the lights are switched on. Hence my proposed fix (pls see my
message of a moment ago)..
JD
@fx45.am4:
> the simplest option is to make up a fused flylead that goes from the
> powered side of the fuse holder direct to the deadlight, hunt down the
> actual fault when the weather is better.
>
even when the lights are switched on. Hence my proposed fix (pls see my
message of a moment ago)..
JD
Chris Whelan
Dec 5, 2015, 5:57:22 AM12/5/15
to
newshound wrote:
> On 03/12/2015 14:28, JD wrote:
>> Car electrics... gha!
>>
>> The offside low beam headlight on my Noosan Tino 1.8, 2001 has stopped
>> working
>>
>> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
>>
>> I checcked for voltage to the connectors. There is no voltage at the
>> connectors when the headlights are switched on.
>>
>> I found two 15A fuses. one labeled headlight/L and headlight/R. They
>> appear fine and I swapped them over and there was no difference.
>>
>> The Haynes manual lighting circuit diagram shows a headlight relay, but
>> doesn't tell me where it is located.
>>
>> I found a ralay named MAIN inder the bonnet in a nearside fusebox, but
>> it's not the main beam that has quit. There are other relays in the same
>> fusebox but none of thjem are labeleled 'healight'.
>>
>> Can anyone tell if there is an offside low beam relay and where it is
>> located?
>>
>> There is a box offside in the engine compartment with a few relays but it
>> doesn't say what they are. And they do not pull out easily. They are so
>> securely in place, I was afraid I'd break something if I forced them
>> free.
This any help for relay location?
> On 03/12/2015 14:28, JD wrote:
>> Car electrics... gha!
>>
>> The offside low beam headlight on my Noosan Tino 1.8, 2001 has stopped
>> working
>>
>> I checked the single-filament bulb. It's fine
>>
>> I checcked for voltage to the connectors. There is no voltage at the
>> connectors when the headlights are switched on.
>>
>> I found two 15A fuses. one labeled headlight/L and headlight/R. They
>> appear fine and I swapped them over and there was no difference.
>>
>> The Haynes manual lighting circuit diagram shows a headlight relay, but
>> doesn't tell me where it is located.
>>
>> I found a ralay named MAIN inder the bonnet in a nearside fusebox, but
>> it's not the main beam that has quit. There are other relays in the same
>> fusebox but none of thjem are labeleled 'healight'.
>>
>> Can anyone tell if there is an offside low beam relay and where it is
>> located?
>>
>> There is a box offside in the engine compartment with a few relays but it
>> doesn't say what they are. And they do not pull out easily. They are so
>> securely in place, I was afraid I'd break something if I forced them
>> free.
http://tinyurl.com/nccz6p5
Chris
--
Remove prejudice to reply.
Mrcheerful
Dec 5, 2015, 6:12:56 AM12/5/15
to
the relay is designed to power both, so that will be ok. I would try it
using the existing rating of fuse, if that survives then it will be ok
for a while at least.
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 5, 2015, 7:19:03 AM12/5/15
to
In article <XnsA56768559C...@130.133.4.11>,
Right - so no volts getting to the fuse. Which means the fault is in the
feed to it.
--
*Why isn't 11 pronounced onety one? *
feed to it.
--
*Why isn't 11 pronounced onety one? *
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 8:44:56 AM12/5/15
to
Mrcheerful <g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in news:GCz8y.481474$wD3.472160
@fx45.am4:
> that would put double the load on the existing working fuse and wiring,
> the relay is designed to power both, so that will be ok. I would try it
> using the existing rating of fuse, if that survives then it will be ok
> for a while at least.
Both fuses themnselves are faultless and intact. The problem is no power to
the fuse (in the case of the light that doesn't come on). As for a relay, I
cannot find one that has ane effect on the headlight that does work. Is it
certain that there IS one for the low beam, do you think?
JD
@fx45.am4:
> that would put double the load on the existing working fuse and wiring,
> the relay is designed to power both, so that will be ok. I would try it
> using the existing rating of fuse, if that survives then it will be ok
> for a while at least.
the fuse (in the case of the light that doesn't come on). As for a relay, I
cannot find one that has ane effect on the headlight that does work. Is it
certain that there IS one for the low beam, do you think?
JD
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 8:53:19 AM12/5/15
to
The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote in news:n3ufbf$hn0$1
@news.albasani.net:
>>>
>>> Thanks; I was thinking similar, but my idea is to solder a short lead
>>> from the live side of the nearside headlight fuse holder to the
>>> supposedly live (but not) side of the offside headlight fuse holder.
>>> That way, I'd have a fuse between the battery positive and the
>>> headlight. That should be a simple, effective fix, yes?
>>>
>>> JD
>>
>> .....or would that overload a relay or the healight switch?
>>
> Probably.
>
> Its almost certainly either a duff wire
> joint or the relay for that bulb
>
A relay would be easy to check, if I could find one. I can't find a relay
that has any effect on the working lowbeam headlight. I presume that the
two realys (one for each lowbeam bulb) would be at the same location.
Would both headlights go through a single relay, or is it more likely that
there is one for each lowbeam bulb?
JD
@news.albasani.net:
>>>
>>> Thanks; I was thinking similar, but my idea is to solder a short lead
>>> from the live side of the nearside headlight fuse holder to the
>>> supposedly live (but not) side of the offside headlight fuse holder.
>>> That way, I'd have a fuse between the battery positive and the
>>> headlight. That should be a simple, effective fix, yes?
>>>
>>> JD
>>
>> .....or would that overload a relay or the healight switch?
>>
> Probably.
>
> Its almost certainly either a duff wire
> joint or the relay for that bulb
>
that has any effect on the working lowbeam headlight. I presume that the
two realys (one for each lowbeam bulb) would be at the same location.
Would both headlights go through a single relay, or is it more likely that
there is one for each lowbeam bulb?
JD
Chris Whelan
Dec 5, 2015, 9:13:22 AM12/5/15
to
JD wrote:
{...]
> Both fuses themnselves are faultless and intact. The problem is no power
> to the fuse (in the case of the light that doesn't come on). As for a
> relay, I cannot find one that has ane effect on the headlight that does
> work. Is it certain that there IS one for the low beam, do you think?
>
> JD
Did you look at the link I posted earlier? It clearly lists two headlamp
relays, with a diagram showing their location.
There will be one relay for dip, and one for main. It's possible that there
are separate contacts on each relay for LH and RH side, in which case the
fault might be the dip relay.
It's more likely that there is a single contact feeding one wire to the fuse
box, which then splits within the base of the box. In that case the fault is
likely to be a break under the fuse box.
{...]
> Both fuses themnselves are faultless and intact. The problem is no power
> to the fuse (in the case of the light that doesn't come on). As for a
> relay, I cannot find one that has ane effect on the headlight that does
> work. Is it certain that there IS one for the low beam, do you think?
>
> JD
relays, with a diagram showing their location.
There will be one relay for dip, and one for main. It's possible that there
are separate contacts on each relay for LH and RH side, in which case the
fault might be the dip relay.
It's more likely that there is a single contact feeding one wire to the fuse
box, which then splits within the base of the box. In that case the fault is
likely to be a break under the fuse box.
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 5, 2015, 9:27:57 AM12/5/15
to
In article <XnsA5678D45C2...@130.133.4.11>,
more than capable of handling the current for two headlamps.
Have you looked for a schematic online?
--
*Gaffer tape - The Force, light and dark sides - holds the universe together*
JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
> A relay would be easy to check, if I could find one. I can't find a
> relay that has any effect on the working lowbeam headlight. I presume
> that the two realys (one for each lowbeam bulb) would be at the same
> location.
> Would both headlights go through a single relay, or is it more likely
> that there is one for each lowbeam bulb?
I can't think of a reason to use two relays, since standard auto ones are
> A relay would be easy to check, if I could find one. I can't find a
> relay that has any effect on the working lowbeam headlight. I presume
> that the two realys (one for each lowbeam bulb) would be at the same
> location.
> Would both headlights go through a single relay, or is it more likely
> that there is one for each lowbeam bulb?
more than capable of handling the current for two headlamps.
Have you looked for a schematic online?
--
*Gaffer tape - The Force, light and dark sides - holds the universe together*
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 9:28:25 AM12/5/15
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:552d34e...@davenoise.co.uk:
> In article <XnsA56768559C...@130.133.4.11>,
> JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
>> "Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
>> news:552cc6a...@davenoise.co.uk:
>
>> > In article <XnsA5669C2511...@130.133.4.11>,
>> > JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
>> >> Thanks for the replies everyone... I have found the correct fuse,
>> >> but it's intact. What I have now discovered is that there is no
>> >> voltage between one side of the fuse socket and the other.
>> >
>> > That would be correct if the fuse was good.
>> >
>> >> Does this indicate a broken wire somewhere?
>> >
>> > Is there volts between the fuse and ground?
>
>
>> No, there is zero volts between the ssde of the fuse socket that is
>> supposed to be live, and ground.
>
> Right - so no volts getting to the fuse. Which means the fault is in
> the feed to it.
>
http://tinyurl.com/hv3ssfb
Can anyone decipher that and tell me what the relay should look like?
BTW, I'm puzzled by that schematic, because it doesn't show any single-
filament headlights. My low beam lights are separate, single-filament
bulbs.
TIA!
JD
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 9:29:15 AM12/5/15
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:552d40a...@davenoise.co.uk:
> Have you looked for a schematic online?
http://tinyurl.com/hv3ssfb
JD
JD
Dec 5, 2015, 10:23:27 AM12/5/15
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:552c43e...@davenoise.co.uk:
>> Also, I was surprised to find no 'headlight relay' for a Nissan Tino
>> being offered on eBay.
>
> on separately. Of course if it has a CAN bus system, all bets are off.
I can;t see any ref to a CAN system in the Haynes manual.
Chris Whelan (in an adjecent reply that I couldn;t respond to within this
group for some reason) sent an image of the other relay box. While the
relays in my box in that location didn't correspond to the ones in the
image, I took them all out and the working lowbeam headlight still
switched on and off, so I guess it's none of those.
I'm baffled! SURELY Nissan would put a headlight relay in a place that's
easy to locate, wouldn't they??
There is nothing in the car's handbook about relays. And Haynes shows a
circuit diagram, but not the actual location of the relays.
ALL I can find is a MAIN relay (presumably meaning main beam) but that has
no effect when I remove it.
JD
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 5, 2015, 10:47:27 AM12/5/15
to
In article <XnsA567933813...@130.133.4.11>,
in the same diagram. How I hate them. ;-)
Looks like there are only relays involved if you have daytime running
lights?
--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?
JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
> > Right - so no volts getting to the fuse. Which means the fault is in
> > the feed to it.
> >
> I posted the Hayens schematic here:
> http://tinyurl.com/hv3ssfb
> Can anyone decipher that and tell me what the relay should look like?
> BTW, I'm puzzled by that schematic, because it doesn't show any single-
> filament headlights. My low beam lights are separate, single-filament
> bulbs.
Typical Haynes - trying to show every possible combination of all variants
> > Right - so no volts getting to the fuse. Which means the fault is in
> > the feed to it.
> >
> I posted the Hayens schematic here:
> http://tinyurl.com/hv3ssfb
> Can anyone decipher that and tell me what the relay should look like?
> BTW, I'm puzzled by that schematic, because it doesn't show any single-
> filament headlights. My low beam lights are separate, single-filament
> bulbs.
in the same diagram. How I hate them. ;-)
Looks like there are only relays involved if you have daytime running
lights?
--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?
Davey
Dec 5, 2015, 12:36:50 PM12/5/15
to
On Sat, 05 Dec 2015 15:45:14 +0000 (GMT)
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
> Typical Haynes - trying to show every possible combination of all
> variants in the same diagram. How I hate them. ;-)
And the Haynes manual for my model of Renault doesn't have my
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
> Typical Haynes - trying to show every possible combination of all
> variants in the same diagram. How I hate them. ;-)
engine size, the only mention is that it isn't included.
--
Davey.
Mrcheerful
Dec 5, 2015, 1:58:01 PM12/5/15
to
reference. If I had the time and was paid to do it, I would visit them
and point out some of the errors I have noticed from the distant past
when I used to refer to them.
dennis@home
Dec 5, 2015, 2:00:02 PM12/5/15
to
A working 20A fuse should read pretty close to zero with an ohm meter.
Johnny B Good
Dec 6, 2015, 12:22:50 PM12/6/15
to
I have a couple of 12v 55W quartz halogen capsule lamps which are
probably identical to the ones JD's testing. The hot, working resistance
calculates out to 2.62 ohms.
However, since the hot resistance of a tungsten filament lamp is
typically an order of magnitude greater than its cold temperature, a
resistance check with a multimeter on the ohms scale will be trying to
measure a mere quarter of an ohm resistance value which, with most
multimeters, can be damned difficult to read or distinguish from the test
lead's own resistance.
Whilst many modern DMMs are calibrated to tenths of an ohm on their 200
ohms scale, thermocouple effects and test probe contact resistance make
getting 'tenth of an ohm' readings rather problematical. With a lot of
care and determination, I can usually get the short circuit test to
stabilise at 0.6 ohms for the test lead resistance and with similar care
when testing the lamp plus test lead resistance, see a 0.8 to 0.9 ohm
reading on my 55W test lamp.
In practice, of course, I'm happy to see a reading that approximates a
short circuit when testing such low voltage lamp filaments when all I'm
doing is simply to prove they haven't gone open circuit.
In the early days of automotive electrics, it was standard practice to
eliminate any fusing protection on headlight circuits to avoid the
consequences of a total blackout due to a tired fuse blowing whilst
driving along an unlit road.
Any resulting electrical wiring fire was deemed less of a risk than a
possibly fatal collision due to a sudden blackout - the theory being that
at least one of the headlamps would remain lit long enough for the driver
to bring the vehicle safely to a halt, pop the bonnet release (in later
vehicles) and jump out, fire extinguisher in hand and possibly a suitable
wrench to disconnect the battery (or, at the *very* least, *safely*
abandon the vehicle along with any passengers before the vehicle became a
raging inferno).
Later on (sometime in the fifties or sixties?) the manufacturers started
fitting safety fuses initially one per headlamp circuit (protecting both
dip and drive filaments on each side) then 4 fuses to protect each
filament or lamp. When relays started to used to control the vehicle's
driving lamps, it was most likely a single changeover relay to begin with
before this single point of failure was duplicated then quadruplicated to
eliminate the risk of a total blackout by any one component failure.
I'd imagine all modern vehicles (circa ten years old or less) will have
not just a seperate fuse link per lamp filament but also a seperate relay
for each lamp filament (not just duplicate contacts on a single coil
relay).
I don't envy JD's task of tracking down this particular fault. Vehicle
electrics wiring diagrams are generally a total and utter shambles,
seemingly designed more as a technically challenging puzzle designed to
exercise the minds of individuals possessed of the intellect of the
eponymous "Sherlock Holmes" character than as an aid to diagnosis by us
mere mortals.
--
Johnny B Good
NY
Dec 6, 2015, 12:41:06 PM12/6/15
to
"Johnny B Good" <johnny...@invalid.ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:p9_8y.535085$wD3.2...@fx45.am4...
I experienced the Sudden Blackout once, and it was very frightening. I'd
just arrived back from a holiday on the Isle of Wight and was driving
through the New Forest on my way back from Lymington. I thought that my
headlight pattern wasn't quite right and that the lights weren't as bright
as they should have been. When I came up behind another car, I saw that I
was right: there was only a reflection from one headlight - the other bulb
had blown. I decided to carry on to Brockenhurst (the nearest settlement
ahead) where I knew there'd be streetlights to supplement the little torch I
had, to help me change the bulb, since it's a bugger trying to fumble in the
restricted space between the headlamp housing and the engine.
I'd only gone a mile further and the other bulb blew. I now just had the
sidelights, which are no use at all the illuminate the road (eg white
lights, kerbs) ahead. I drove most of the way on full beam, having to revert
to blackout (apart from sidelights) whenever there was an oncoming car, and
keeping well back from the car in front to avoid dazzling him. With
hindsight I should have used the front fog lights but I forgot about those.
Eventually I managed to find somewhere that I could safely pull off the road
to change at least one of the bulbs (I just had one spare).
Late at night, there were no shops open to buy a second bulb, and even
Rownham Services on the motorway only had 24V and not 12V H7 bulbs - fine
for HGVs but no use for cars.
At least one bulb, fitted on the offside to indicate the boundary of my car
to oncoming cars, was enough to get me home.
Now I try to carry *two* spare headlight bulbs!
news:p9_8y.535085$wD3.2...@fx45.am4...
> On Sat, 05 Dec 2015 19:00:02 +0000, dennis@home wrote:
> In the early days of automotive electrics, it was standard practice to
> eliminate any fusing protection on headlight circuits to avoid the
> consequences of a total blackout due to a tired fuse blowing whilst
> driving along an unlit road.
>
> Any resulting electrical wiring fire was deemed less of a risk than a
> possibly fatal collision due to a sudden blackout.
> In the early days of automotive electrics, it was standard practice to
> eliminate any fusing protection on headlight circuits to avoid the
> consequences of a total blackout due to a tired fuse blowing whilst
> driving along an unlit road.
>
> Any resulting electrical wiring fire was deemed less of a risk than a
I experienced the Sudden Blackout once, and it was very frightening. I'd
just arrived back from a holiday on the Isle of Wight and was driving
through the New Forest on my way back from Lymington. I thought that my
headlight pattern wasn't quite right and that the lights weren't as bright
as they should have been. When I came up behind another car, I saw that I
was right: there was only a reflection from one headlight - the other bulb
had blown. I decided to carry on to Brockenhurst (the nearest settlement
ahead) where I knew there'd be streetlights to supplement the little torch I
had, to help me change the bulb, since it's a bugger trying to fumble in the
restricted space between the headlamp housing and the engine.
I'd only gone a mile further and the other bulb blew. I now just had the
sidelights, which are no use at all the illuminate the road (eg white
lights, kerbs) ahead. I drove most of the way on full beam, having to revert
to blackout (apart from sidelights) whenever there was an oncoming car, and
keeping well back from the car in front to avoid dazzling him. With
hindsight I should have used the front fog lights but I forgot about those.
Eventually I managed to find somewhere that I could safely pull off the road
to change at least one of the bulbs (I just had one spare).
Late at night, there were no shops open to buy a second bulb, and even
Rownham Services on the motorway only had 24V and not 12V H7 bulbs - fine
for HGVs but no use for cars.
At least one bulb, fitted on the offside to indicate the boundary of my car
to oncoming cars, was enough to get me home.
Now I try to carry *two* spare headlight bulbs!
JD
Dec 7, 2015, 8:33:28 AM12/7/15
to
dennis@home <den...@nowhere.invalid> wrote in
news:56633431$0$51618$b1db1813$ac43...@news.astraweb.com:
>> Ohm meter and visual. The Ohms reading indicates it has resistance,
>> so the filament must be intact, and it looks intact too.
>>
>> JD
>>
>
> How much resistance?
> A working 20A fuse should read pretty close to zero with an ohm meter.
Apologies; I meant to say it has "very low resistance" (as opposed to the
very high resistance of a blown bulb).
JD
news:56633431$0$51618$b1db1813$ac43...@news.astraweb.com:
>> Ohm meter and visual. The Ohms reading indicates it has resistance,
>> so the filament must be intact, and it looks intact too.
>>
>> JD
>>
>
> How much resistance?
> A working 20A fuse should read pretty close to zero with an ohm meter.
very high resistance of a blown bulb).
JD
JD
Dec 7, 2015, 8:45:26 AM12/7/15
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:552d47f...@davenoise.co.uk:
>> > Right - so no volts getting to the fuse. Which means the fault is
>> > in the feed to it.
>> >
>
>> I posted the Hayens schematic here:
>
>> http://tinyurl.com/hv3ssfb
>
>> Can anyone decipher that and tell me what the relay should look like?
>
>> BTW, I'm puzzled by that schematic, because it doesn't show any
>> single- filament headlights. My low beam lights are separate,
>> single-filament bulbs.
>
> Typical Haynes - trying to show every possible combination of all
> variants in the same diagram. How I hate them. ;-)
>
> Looks like there are only relays involved if you have daytime running
> lights?
being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
If there is no relay for the low beam bulbs, this means that the full
current for both low-beam bulbs goes through a single headlight switch
contact, yes?
JD
Chris Whelan
Dec 7, 2015, 9:25:57 AM12/7/15
to
JD wrote:
> "Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
> news:552d47f...@davenoise.co.uk:
>
>>> > Right - so no volts getting to the fuse. Which means the fault is
>>> > in the feed to it.
>>> >
>>
>>> I posted the Hayens schematic here:
>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/hv3ssfb
>>
>>> Can anyone decipher that and tell me what the relay should look like?
>>
>>> BTW, I'm puzzled by that schematic, because it doesn't show any
>>> single- filament headlights. My low beam lights are separate,
>>> single-filament bulbs.
>>
>> Typical Haynes - trying to show every possible combination of all
>> variants in the same diagram. How I hate them. ;-)
>>
>> Looks like there are only relays involved if you have daytime running
>> lights?
>
> The car has no daytime running lights. There is a relay labeled "main"
> being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
Where are you looking at? There is a relay labelled 'Main' in the fascia
> "Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
> news:552d47f...@davenoise.co.uk:
>
>>> > Right - so no volts getting to the fuse. Which means the fault is
>>> > in the feed to it.
>>> >
>>
>>> I posted the Hayens schematic here:
>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/hv3ssfb
>>
>>> Can anyone decipher that and tell me what the relay should look like?
>>
>>> BTW, I'm puzzled by that schematic, because it doesn't show any
>>> single- filament headlights. My low beam lights are separate,
>>> single-filament bulbs.
>>
>> Typical Haynes - trying to show every possible combination of all
>> variants in the same diagram. How I hate them. ;-)
>>
>> Looks like there are only relays involved if you have daytime running
>> lights?
>
> The car has no daytime running lights. There is a relay labeled "main"
> being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
relay box that feeds various 'ignition on' circuits; it will have nothing to
do with the lights.
There are either one or two under-bonnet relay boxes shown in the link I
posted. The smaller one of the two holds the headlight relays, but may not
be fitted to your vehicle.
> If there is no relay for the low beam bulbs, this means that the full
> current for both low-beam bulbs goes through a single headlight switch
> contact, yes?
yes.
Whichever arrangement you have, if your fault is with the dip beam in one
headlight, the problem can only be at or after the fuse box, because
everything before that is a single circuit.
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 7, 2015, 10:00:35 AM12/7/15
to
In article <XnsA5698BEFA6...@130.133.4.11>,
> If there is no relay for the low beam bulbs, this means that the full
> current for both low-beam bulbs goes through a single headlight switch
> contact, yes?
Not if there is a relay for the headlights somewhere. It would be the dip
switch that then handles the full current.
--
*I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian.
JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
> The car has no daytime running lights. There is a relay labeled "main"
> being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
Dunno.
> The car has no daytime running lights. There is a relay labeled "main"
> being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
> If there is no relay for the low beam bulbs, this means that the full
> current for both low-beam bulbs goes through a single headlight switch
> contact, yes?
switch that then handles the full current.
--
*I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian.
JD
Dec 10, 2015, 3:40:53 PM12/10/15
to
Chris Whelan <cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote in
news:LCg9y.489322$jJ3.2...@fx33.am4:
>> The car has no daytime running lights. There is a relay labeled
>> "main" being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
>
> Where are you looking at? There is a relay labelled 'Main' in the
> fascia relay box that feeds various 'ignition on' circuits; it will
> have nothing to do with the lights.
Hi Chris, I was looking at the under-bonnet relay that is dlightly to thr
nearside of center (not the one in your link)
>
> There are either one or two under-bonnet relay boxes shown in the link
> I posted. The smaller one of the two holds the headlight relays, but
> may not be fitted to your vehicle.
I pullod out all of the six relays in the box shown in your link but none
had any effect on the low-beam bulb that is working properly, NB There are
fewer relays in that box than shown in your link.
>
>> If there is no relay for the low beam bulbs, this means that the full
>> current for both low-beam bulbs goes through a single headlight
>> switch contact, yes?
>
> If your vehicle has only one under-bonnet relay box, then that is the
> case, yes.
>
> Whichever arrangement you have, if your fault is with the dip beam in
> one headlight, the problem can only be at or after the fuse box,
> because everything before that is a single circuit.
Okay - thanks. I'm tempted to just brdge the two positive sides of the two
low-beam fuses, so that power gets to the currently-dead low-beam bulb, via
it's own normal fuse.
JD
news:LCg9y.489322$jJ3.2...@fx33.am4:
>> The car has no daytime running lights. There is a relay labeled
>> "main" being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
>
> Where are you looking at? There is a relay labelled 'Main' in the
> fascia relay box that feeds various 'ignition on' circuits; it will
> have nothing to do with the lights.
nearside of center (not the one in your link)
>
> There are either one or two under-bonnet relay boxes shown in the link
> I posted. The smaller one of the two holds the headlight relays, but
> may not be fitted to your vehicle.
had any effect on the low-beam bulb that is working properly, NB There are
fewer relays in that box than shown in your link.
>
>> If there is no relay for the low beam bulbs, this means that the full
>> current for both low-beam bulbs goes through a single headlight
>> switch contact, yes?
>
> If your vehicle has only one under-bonnet relay box, then that is the
> case, yes.
>
> Whichever arrangement you have, if your fault is with the dip beam in
> one headlight, the problem can only be at or after the fuse box,
> because everything before that is a single circuit.
low-beam fuses, so that power gets to the currently-dead low-beam bulb, via
it's own normal fuse.
JD
JD
Dec 11, 2015, 12:37:44 PM12/11/15
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:552e4b8...@davenoise.co.uk:
> In article <XnsA5698BEFA6...@130.133.4.11>,
> JD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
>> The car has no daytime running lights. There is a relay labeled "main"
>> being an 80A relay. Would that mean 'main beam'?
>
> Dunno.
>
>> If there is no relay for the low beam bulbs, this means that the full
>> current for both low-beam bulbs goes through a single headlight switch
>> contact, yes?
>
> Not if there is a relay for the headlights somewhere. It would be the dip
> switch that then handles the full current.
>
discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets are live,
even when the lights are switched off. I guess this means the power from
the battery goes directly to the fuse box, and then after going through a
fuse, the feed goes to the headlight switch before going on to the light
bulb. This means it could be the headlight switch that's caput, doesn't it?
That's assuming that there is two separate contacts inside the headlight
switch - one for each bulb. If there is only one contact, then the break in
the circuit must be elsewhere.
JD
JD
Dec 11, 2015, 1:20:56 PM12/11/15
to
even when the lights are switched off. I guess this means the power from
the battery goes directly to the fuse box, and then after going through
the fuse, the feed must go to the headlight switch before going on to the
the battery goes directly to the fuse box, and then after going through
light bulb. This means the headlight switch may be at fault doesn't it?
To me that seems more likely than a break in the wiring, don't you agree?
That's assuming that there is two separate contacts inside the headlight
Fredxxx
Dec 11, 2015, 1:52:22 PM12/11/15
to
On 11/12/2015 17:37, JD wrote:
<snip>
> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a new
> discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets are live,
> even when the lights are switched off.
How does this reconcile with "What I have now discovered is that there
is no voltage
between one side of the fuse socket and the other"?
<snip>
> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a new
> discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets are live,
> even when the lights are switched off.
is no voltage
between one side of the fuse socket and the other"?
Chris Whelan
Dec 11, 2015, 2:14:45 PM12/11/15
to
JD wrote:
[...]
> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a new
> discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets are live,
> even when the lights are switched off. I guess this means the power from
> the battery goes directly to the fuse box, and then after going through a
> fuse, the feed goes to the headlight switch before going on to the light
> bulb. This means it could be the headlight switch that's caput, doesn't
> it? That's assuming that there is two separate contacts inside the
> headlight switch - one for each bulb. If there is only one contact, then
> the break in the circuit must be elsewhere.
Are you able to see my posts?
I ask because you have already been told that if you have no daytime running
lights, then there are no relays for the headlights.
I would be amazed if any car maker would provide separate contacts, which
would also mean extra wiring, for each individual bulb.
If you are *sure* the bulb is OK, and you are *sure* there is no voltage
reaching the bulb, in the absence of a wiring diagram your only option is to
physically trace the loom back to wherever it connects to, and test there.
[...]
> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a new
> discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets are live,
> even when the lights are switched off. I guess this means the power from
> the battery goes directly to the fuse box, and then after going through a
> fuse, the feed goes to the headlight switch before going on to the light
> bulb. This means it could be the headlight switch that's caput, doesn't
> it? That's assuming that there is two separate contacts inside the
> headlight switch - one for each bulb. If there is only one contact, then
> the break in the circuit must be elsewhere.
I ask because you have already been told that if you have no daytime running
lights, then there are no relays for the headlights.
I would be amazed if any car maker would provide separate contacts, which
would also mean extra wiring, for each individual bulb.
If you are *sure* the bulb is OK, and you are *sure* there is no voltage
reaching the bulb, in the absence of a wiring diagram your only option is to
physically trace the loom back to wherever it connects to, and test there.
Chris Whelan
Dec 11, 2015, 2:20:28 PM12/11/15
to
JD wrote:
[...]
> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a new
> discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets are live,
> even when the lights are switched off. I guess this means the power from
> the battery goes directly to the fuse box, and then after going through a
> fuse, the feed goes to the headlight switch before going on to the light
> bulb. This means it could be the headlight switch that's caput, doesn't
> it? That's assuming that there is two separate contacts inside the
> headlight switch - one for each bulb. If there is only one contact, then
> the break in the circuit must be elsewhere.
Here, see if this helps. You need diagram 4:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cxw9lks1w79y4l3/Nissan%20Tino.pdf?dl=0
Note - it will only be there for one week!
[...]
> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a new
> discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets are live,
> even when the lights are switched off. I guess this means the power from
> the battery goes directly to the fuse box, and then after going through a
> fuse, the feed goes to the headlight switch before going on to the light
> bulb. This means it could be the headlight switch that's caput, doesn't
> it? That's assuming that there is two separate contacts inside the
> headlight switch - one for each bulb. If there is only one contact, then
> the break in the circuit must be elsewhere.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cxw9lks1w79y4l3/Nissan%20Tino.pdf?dl=0
Note - it will only be there for one week!
JD
Dec 11, 2015, 2:28:05 PM12/11/15
to
Fredxxx <fre...@nospam.com> wrote in news:n4f5sf$2to$1...@dont-email.me:
>> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a
>> new discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets
>> are live, even when the lights are switched off.
>
> How does this reconcile with "What I have now discovered is that there
> is no voltage
> between one side of the fuse socket and the other"?
>
I don't know. I find car circuitry hard to fathom.
JD
>> I cannot find a relay for the low beam bulbs at all. I just made a
>> new discovery though: the positive side of the low-beam fuse sockets
>> are live, even when the lights are switched off.
>
> How does this reconcile with "What I have now discovered is that there
> is no voltage
> between one side of the fuse socket and the other"?
>
JD
JD
Dec 11, 2015, 2:45:03 PM12/11/15
to
Chris Whelan <cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote in
news:vlFay.633759$jJ3....@fx33.am4:
understand. I'm thinking that it would proably be a more sensible gamble to
simply replace the headlight switch and see if that cures it. If not then I
really will have to track down a broken wire, but I think you'll agree a
break in a wire is a bit unlikely, isn't it?
JD
Mrcheerful
Dec 11, 2015, 3:24:22 PM12/11/15
to
On 11/12/2015 17:37, JD wrote:
'power' as such, but a back feed from another circuit. See if the
'power' you are seeing will actually light a bulb.
JD
Dec 19, 2015, 11:44:03 AM12/19/15
to
replying to Mrcheerful , JD wrote:
> g.odonnell35 wrote:
>
> the simplest option is to make up a fused flylead that goes from the
> powered side of the fuse holder direct to the deadlight, hunt down the
> actual fault when the weather is better.
]]
This seems to be my best option. I am thinking of making up a lead with a
crocodile clip at one end, which I clip to the battery positive, then feed
that wire to a new dashboard auxiliary switch and have another wire going
from this switch to the headlight. Is a fuse really necessary for this?
JD
--
> g.odonnell35 wrote:
>
> the simplest option is to make up a fused flylead that goes from the
> powered side of the fuse holder direct to the deadlight, hunt down the
> actual fault when the weather is better.
]]
This seems to be my best option. I am thinking of making up a lead with a
crocodile clip at one end, which I clip to the battery positive, then feed
that wire to a new dashboard auxiliary switch and have another wire going
from this switch to the headlight. Is a fuse really necessary for this?
JD
--
Peter Andrews
Dec 19, 2015, 11:56:36 AM12/19/15
to
clip, not that I approve of your method of connecting to the battery.
Without a fuse you run the risk of a few meters of glowing red hot wire
- been there and done it, albeit 50 years ago!
Peter
JD
Dec 19, 2015, 6:44:04 PM12/19/15
to
replying to Peter Andrews , JD wrote:
Surely, the bulb itself will act as a fuse, won't it? I couldn't find an
inline fuse today, so I wired it up with no fuse. Why would the wire get
red hot?
JD
--
> pa wrote:
>
> Yes a fuse is essential, use an in line one close to your crocodile
> clip, not that I approve of your method of connecting to the battery.
> Without a fuse you run the risk of a few meters of glowing red hot wire
> - been there and done it, albeit 50 years ago!
> Peter
I agree about the crocodile clip; I securely clamped the wire instead.
>
> Yes a fuse is essential, use an in line one close to your crocodile
> clip, not that I approve of your method of connecting to the battery.
> Without a fuse you run the risk of a few meters of glowing red hot wire
> - been there and done it, albeit 50 years ago!
> Peter
Surely, the bulb itself will act as a fuse, won't it? I couldn't find an
inline fuse today, so I wired it up with no fuse. Why would the wire get
red hot?
JD
--
Clive George
Dec 19, 2015, 7:26:16 PM12/19/15
to
If so, leave the fuse out.
If you're a normal human being, put one in, because that way when you
accidentally short the wire onto something (not entirely unlikely) the
fuse will blow rather than you ending up with a red hot wire dripping
insulation all over your nice engine bay.
Peter Andrews
Dec 20, 2015, 11:41:54 AM12/20/15
to
On 19/12/2015 23:44, JD wrote:
wiring in the event of a fault. For example, in your case, if you have
an accident and your headlamp assembly is badly damaged such that the
wiring is crushed against the body shell there is a real possibility
that the battery will supply as much current as it can down the damaged
wire which will result in it becoming very (red) hot and melting the
insulation and that of the adjoining cables ultimately catching fire.
The purpose of the fuse, located relatively close to the battery, is to
fail if an excessive amount of current flows therefore stopping further
current flowing and reducing the chance of fire. Please for your own
and your passengers safety fit a fuse, it's not funny being in a car
that catches fire it does very, very quickly become an inferno. Most car
fires are a total loss.
Peter
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