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Marine Based Ply from Wickes

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Oliver

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May 20, 2005, 12:12:23 PM5/20/05
to
Hi,
Just looking at getting some marine ply (I think thats what its called) to
place over floorboards so I can tile. But just went to Wickes and asked the
lad in there which one is waterproof as they dont say, unfortunately he
couldnt help and at that point I decided to leave. But what do I look for
when I do decide to go back apart from a staff member with an ounce of
sense.
Thanks
Olly

Mathew J. Newton

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May 20, 2005, 12:18:19 PM5/20/05
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Is WBP (Water & Boil Proof) the same as 'Marine', or at least good
enough for your application? If so, the stuff I get from B&Q always has
it stamped directly on so you can avoid having to embarass one of their
students, or an old dear from the decorating department.

Christian McArdle

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May 20, 2005, 12:30:40 PM5/20/05
to
> Just looking at getting some marine ply (I think thats what its called)
to
> place over floorboards so I can tile.

You need WBP, not marine. Marine is many times as expensive (i.e. 80GBP+
rather than 20GBP) and has miniscule additional benefit for a flooring
application over WBP.

Christian.


Rob Morley

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May 20, 2005, 1:14:51 PM5/20/05
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In article <1116605899....@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
"Mathew J. Newton" use...@newtonnet.co.uk says...
WBP isn't the same as marine, but it's the right stuff for the job.

Oliver

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May 20, 2005, 1:26:50 PM5/20/05
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Cheers for that next question what is the thinnest I can get away with? its
only a small area but is going to have slate tiles on it.


Mike

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May 20, 2005, 2:34:32 PM5/20/05
to

"Christian McArdle" <cmcar...@nospam.yahooxxxx.co.uk> wrote in message
news:428e10b2$0$294$ed9e...@reading.news.pipex.net...

That's only true if you are placing the ply flat onto an existing surface.
If you are screwing the ply to battens or joists the use of marine ply
really is night and day compared with WBP.


Moonshine

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May 20, 2005, 4:33:36 PM5/20/05
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On Fri, 20 May 2005 18:14:51 +0100, Rob Morley <nos...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

I got to put down a Resin Shower Tray too. I have some 18mm MDF the
right size - would this do - painted to make it water proof - or
should I not be a cheap skate and get some WBP ply. Its just a pain
that the small pieces B&Q have are only 600mm wide or they jump up to
whooping big sheets (that I know I can have cut). I want 800mm square
or there abouts.

John Stumbles

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May 21, 2005, 8:56:20 AM5/21/05
to
Mike wrote:

Why's that then?

big...@meeow.co.uk

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May 21, 2005, 8:59:10 AM5/21/05
to
Moonshine wrote:

> I got to put down a Resin Shower Tray too. I have some 18mm MDF the
> right size - would this do - painted to make it water proof - or
> should I not be a cheap skate and get some WBP ply. Its just a pain
> that the small pieces B&Q have are only 600mm wide or they jump up to
> whooping big sheets (that I know I can have cut). I want 800mm
square
> or there abouts.

No way Jose, most unsuitable. Use WBP ply.

NT

Moonshine

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May 21, 2005, 9:02:32 AM5/21/05
to

OK Thanks - I already chicken'd out and got some WBP :-)

More off-cuts to fill up the garage.

big...@meeow.co.uk

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May 21, 2005, 12:24:17 PM5/21/05
to
Moonshine wrote:
> On 21 May 2005 05:59:10 -0700, big...@meeow.co.uk wrote:

> >No way Jose, most unsuitable. Use WBP ply.

> OK Thanks - I already chicken'd out and got some WBP :-)


>
> More off-cuts to fill up the garage.

Well you can always use the offcuts to make a shelf unit to store the
offcuts.

NT

Mike

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May 21, 2005, 6:53:56 PM5/21/05
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"John Stumbles" <john.s...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:UdGje.13728$hn5....@newsfe2-win.ntli.net...

It just feels better - less bouncy for lack of a better term.


Christian McArdle

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May 23, 2005, 4:56:13 AM5/23/05
to
> Cheers for that next question what is the thinnest I can get away with?
its
> only a small area but is going to have slate tiles on it.

Laid on to a suitable existing flat floor, 12mm minimum. Laid onto battens
or joists with 400mm spacing, 18mm minimum.

There's no harm (and some benefit) in using thicker.

Christian.


Pete C

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May 23, 2005, 8:43:47 AM5/23/05
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On Fri, 20 May 2005 17:12:23 +0100, "Oliver" <re...@tiscali.co.uk>
wrote:

Hi,

Try asking the tile supplier, I'd have thought 9mm is the absolute
minimum.

On a suspended floor going very thick could be counter productive as
it may encourage the floor to flex at the edges of the ply and not
across the board.

In any case, using the right tile cement for wooden floors and sealing
the ply is very important, the adhesive manufacturer might be able to
advise on sealing.

Also staggering the joints where possible and making sure they are
over the middle of a floorboard, and making sure the tiles will be
over the middle of the join should also help.

I'd have thought very well sealed moisture resistant chipboard is just
as good as ply.

cheers,
Pete.

Oliver

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May 23, 2005, 1:36:25 PM5/23/05
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Cheers for the reply's, cant wait to do it.....
"Pete C" <pete...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:muj3915pvm75dip0k...@4ax.com...

Rick Hughes

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May 27, 2005, 9:19:20 AM5/27/05
to

"Pete C" <pete...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:muj3915pvm75dip0k...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 20 May 2005 17:12:23 +0100, "Oliver" <re...@tiscali.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>> Just looking at getting some marine ply (I think thats what its called)
>> to
>>place over floorboards so I can tile. But just went to Wickes and asked
>>the
>>lad in there which one is waterproof as they dont say, unfortunately he
>>couldnt help and at that point I decided to leave. But what do I look for
>>when I do decide to go back apart from a staff member with an ounce of
>>sense.

You don't need Marine Ply ....WBP grade ply, certainly not marine.
If it is going on top of existing boards then a 12mm is enough, may get away
with less ... but make sure you use a flexible adhesive & grout.

Rick


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