cutting skirting with mitre saw
noo...@yahoo.co.uk
cuts in skirting boards, which are approx 100mm high. What's the best
way to make the cut - do you stand the skirting board vertically and
pivot the blade to the 45 degree position, keeping the blade in the
vertical plane, or lie the skirting board flat and incline the blade
to make a 45 degree bevel cut?
The other application of the tool would be to cross-cut wooden
flooring planks (engineered or solid, typically 130 mm wide x 15 mm
thick).
Over time, I will lay wooden flooring and install skirting boards in
around 4 rooms. The saws available range in price by a factor of 20
twenty or so. Any recommendations of which saw to buy for this
application, within a budget of around 150 pounds?
thanks
Julian
The Medway Handyman
> I am thinking of buying an electric mitre saw in order to make mitre
> cuts in skirting boards, which are approx 100mm high. What's the best
> way to make the cut - do you stand the skirting board vertically and
> pivot the blade to the 45 degree position, keeping the blade in the
> vertical plane, or lie the skirting board flat and incline the blade
> to make a 45 degree bevel cut?
>
> The other application of the tool would be to cross-cut wooden
> flooring planks (engineered or solid, typically 130 mm wide x 15 mm
> thick).
>
> Over time, I will lay wooden flooring and install skirting boards in
> around 4 rooms. The saws available range in price by a factor of 20
> twenty or so. Any recommendations of which saw to buy for this
> application, within a budget of around 150 pounds?
I have one of these
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21386&name=mitre+saw&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0
well pleased with it. I'd buy another if it went missing.
--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257
George
<noo...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1180197864....@w5g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Cut it in the flat plane position.
ps also purchase an Angle finder as not all corners are true,other than that
profiling is the best technique
Stuart Noble
> noo...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
>> I am thinking of buying an electric mitre saw in order to make mitre
>> cuts in skirting boards, which are approx 100mm high. What's the best
>> way to make the cut - do you stand the skirting board vertically and
>> pivot the blade to the 45 degree position, keeping the blade in the
>> vertical plane, or lie the skirting board flat and incline the blade
>> to make a 45 degree bevel cut?
>>
> The latter
The former is an easier cut, and certainly easier to mark and measure,
but 100mm is probably too high for most mitre saws. I hate using the 45
deg tilt
>
>> The other application of the tool would be to cross-cut wooden
>> flooring planks (engineered or solid, typically 130 mm wide x 15 mm
>> thick).
>>
>> Over time, I will lay wooden flooring and install skirting boards in
>> around 4 rooms. The saws available range in price by a factor of 20
>> twenty or so. Any recommendations of which saw to buy for this
>> application, within a budget of around 150 pounds?
>
> I have one of these
> http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21386&name=mitre+saw&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0
> well pleased with it. I'd buy another if it went missing.
Looks pretty useful and, at 18kgs, not too heavy to cart about.
John Rumm
> I am thinking of buying an electric mitre saw in order to make mitre
> cuts in skirting boards, which are approx 100mm high. What's the best
> way to make the cut - do you stand the skirting board vertically and
> pivot the blade to the 45 degree position, keeping the blade in the
> vertical plane, or lie the skirting board flat and incline the blade
> to make a 45 degree bevel cut?
Unless you get a saw with a very big blade (a Makita LS1214 would do
it!), then the latter is usually the only option. You only need worry
about the external corners as the internal ones ought to be scribed
instead.
Some saws don't make using the bevel cut accurately that easy, since
they lack an accurate scale. Setting the angle using a angle divider or
carpenters bevel gauge usually helps.
> The other application of the tool would be to cross-cut wooden
> flooring planks (engineered or solid, typically 130 mm wide x 15 mm
> thick).
All bar the smallest will do that without too much difficulty.
--
Cheers,
John.
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Roger Mills
I have the Wickes equivalent of one of these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=28169&ts=06853 which I find
perfectly adequate for skirting board up to 4" high. Light, portable, no
electricity needed . . .
--
Cheers,
Roger
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George
"Roger Mills" <watt....@googlemail.com> wrote in message
news:5brfeuF...@mid.individual.net...
These are useless at cutting straight down a 4" piece of skirting...you get
half way and the blade starts wandering of the mark.
Roger Mills
> "Roger Mills" <watt....@googlemail.com> wrote in message
> news:5brfeuF...@mid.individual.net...
>>
>> I have the Wickes equivalent of one of these
>> http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=28169&ts=06853 which
>> I find perfectly adequate for skirting board up to 4" high. Light,
>> portable, no electricity needed . . .
>>
>>
>
> These are useless at cutting straight down a 4" piece of
> skirting...you get half way and the blade starts wandering of the
> mark.
Not in my experience! Maybe they need a bit more skill than I realised. <g>
Stuart Noble
> In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
> George <now...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> "Roger Mills" <watt....@googlemail.com> wrote in message
>> news:5brfeuF...@mid.individual.net...
>>> I have the Wickes equivalent of one of these
>>> http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=28169&ts=06853 which
>>> I find perfectly adequate for skirting board up to 4" high. Light,
>>> portable, no electricity needed . . .
>>>
>>>
>> These are useless at cutting straight down a 4" piece of
>> skirting...you get half way and the blade starts wandering of the
>> mark.
>
>
> Not in my experience! Maybe they need a bit more skill than I realised. <g>
The blade is too fine and too flexible. You get a nice cut on small,
delicate mouldings but not ideal for skirting
George
"Stuart Noble" <stuart_no...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> >> These are useless at cutting straight down a 4" piece of
> >> skirting...you get half way and the blade starts wandering of the
> >> mark.
> >
> >
> > Not in my experience! Maybe they need a bit more skill than I realised.
<g>
>
> The blade is too fine and too flexible. You get a nice cut on small,
> delicate mouldings but not ideal for skirting
Correct.
noo...@yahoo.co.uk
> In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
>
>
>
>
>
> > noos...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> >> I am thinking of buying an electric mitre saw in order to make mitre
> >> cuts in skirting boards, which are approx 100mm high. What's the best
> >> way to make the cut - do you stand the skirting board vertically and
> >> pivot the blade to the 45 degree position, keeping the blade in the
> >> vertical plane, or lie the skirting board flat and incline the blade
> >> to make a 45 degree bevel cut?
>
> > The latter
>
> >> The other application of the tool would be to cross-cut wooden
> >> flooring planks (engineered or solid, typically 130 mm wide x 15 mm
> >> thick).
>
> >> Over time, I will lay wooden flooring and install skirting boards in
> >> around 4 rooms. The saws available range in price by a factor of 20
> >> twenty or so. Any recommendations of which saw to buy for this
> >> application, within a budget of around 150 pounds?
>
> > I have one of these
> > well pleased with it. I'd buy another if it went missing.
>
> perfectly adequate for skirting board up to 4" high. Light, portable, no
> electricity needed . . .
> --
> Cheers,
> Roger
I have tried something similar in the past (I think it was
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=59824&ts=93677). But I
found that the blade wore out very quickly. Also I found that if I
clamped the workpiece tightly (using G-clamps rather than the clamp
that comes with the saw), it needed a lot of force to move the saw
blade back and forth. Probably incompetence on my part!
thanks
Julian