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repacking a rising spindle tap

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Adam Funk

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Nov 8, 2010, 1:55:31 PM11/8/10
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I have a Bristian 1901 kitchen mixer tap, which contains two rising
spindle taps. The cold one was leaking between the spindle and the
gland nut, so I opened it up and (stupidly --- yes, I know) scraped
out the plastic seal, then went to the plumbing shop to look for a
replacement. It turns out that you can't get them now because Bristan
changed suppliers for the internal parts about 5 or so years ago., so
I've been trying to repack the seal the old fashioned way, with
plumbing hemp. So far, I haven't been able to get a satisfactory,
lasting result.

Every time I try this, I end up a while later with some problem: the
hemp leaks out between the spindle and the gland nut; water leaks out
through the same gap; or the gland nut rotates with the spindle. I've
tried plain hemp and (now) hemp rubbed with petroleum jelly, and I've
paid attention to the direction of winding.

If anyone has succeeded in this, I would appreciate any tips.


[1]
http://www.sobathrooms.com/kitchen-taps-150/traditional-152/bristan-1901-monobloc-sink-mixer-chrome-37329-16334_medium.jpg

There's no bell cover, so the gland nut is exposed.

Ian Jackson

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Nov 8, 2010, 2:42:45 PM11/8/10
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In message <3mtlq7x...@news.ducksburg.com>, Adam Funk
<a24...@ducksburg.com> writes

>I have a Bristian 1901 kitchen mixer tap, which contains two rising
>spindle taps. The cold one was leaking between the spindle and the
>gland nut, so I opened it up and (stupidly --- yes, I know) scraped
>out the plastic seal, then went to the plumbing shop to look for a
>replacement. It turns out that you can't get them now because Bristan
>changed suppliers for the internal parts about 5 or so years ago., so
>I've been trying to repack the seal the old fashioned way, with
>plumbing hemp. So far, I haven't been able to get a satisfactory,
>lasting result.
>
>Every time I try this, I end up a while later with some problem: the
>hemp leaks out between the spindle and the gland nut; water leaks out
>through the same gap; or the gland nut rotates with the spindle. I've
>tried plain hemp and (now) hemp rubbed with petroleum jelly, and I've
>paid attention to the direction of winding.
>
>If anyone has succeeded in this, I would appreciate any tips.
>
I've successfully done the same with most of the central heating
radiator valves in the house (albeit using silicon grease instead of
petroleum jelly). Of course, they probably don't get 'exercised' quite
as often as ordinary taps -and the pressure will be a lot lower than a
kitchen cold water supply. However, this fix has been 'ongoing' for the
past 30 years - even if, every so often, I need to re-do the occasional
valve.

All I can suggest is that you make sure that the spindle is cleaned of
any 'grot', and that you keep the strands of hemp held down the spindle
as you start to tighten the nut (using, say, the blade of a
screwdriver). It might be better not to use too much hemp in one go.
Instead, partially tighten the nut, unscrew it (trying not to unwind the
hemp), wind on some more hemp, and finally tighten the nut.

If the leak is now OK, but the nut still insists on insists on
unscrewing, you could make it more difficult to unscrew by using some
PTFE tape (or even a few strands of hemp) on the threads of the nut. Or
maybe you could deliberately damage the thread (near the top of the nut)
- or maybe add a spot of solder - anything to help it jam.

PS. Try cotton string instead of hemp.
--
Ian

A Plumber

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Nov 8, 2010, 2:53:38 PM11/8/10
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"Ian Jackson" <ianREMOVET...@g3ohx.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:MhMoHTG1...@g3ohx.demon.co.uk...

You could put a bit of tallow on the hemp, I always use PTFE tape
wind so much on and push it down witht the nut. then a bit of silicon grease
for the spindle
where the nut fits


cynic

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Nov 8, 2010, 4:57:30 PM11/8/10
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> [1]http://www.sobathrooms.com/kitchen-taps-150/traditional-152/bristan-1...

>
> There's no bell cover, so the gland nut is exposed.

could you get an o-ring and some silicone grease? You may need to
carefully apply some locktite to the thread of the nut if it tries to
screw itself out in use.

Tabby

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Nov 9, 2010, 8:07:57 AM11/9/10
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On Nov 8, 6:55 pm, Adam Funk <a240...@ducksburg.com> wrote:
> [1]http://www.sobathrooms.com/kitchen-taps-150/traditional-152/bristan-1...

>
> There's no bell cover, so the gland nut is exposed.

What did the plastic seal look like? Is it not possible to make one?
If no other way, in rubber?


NT

Adam Funk

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Nov 11, 2010, 4:10:59 PM11/11/10
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On 2010-11-08, cynic wrote:

> could you get an o-ring and some silicone grease? You may need to
> carefully apply some locktite to the thread of the nut if it tries to
> screw itself out in use.

ISTR the original plastic seal was much deeper (i.e., measured
parallel to the spindle) than its thickness, so an O-ring as such
wouldn't do it. But the Loctite is a good idea. I'll try stuffing
more hemp in & re-tightening it. Maybe if I can pack enough in, the
hemp will stop leaking out?

Adam Funk

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Nov 21, 2010, 10:48:36 AM11/21/10
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On 2010-11-09, Tabby wrote:

> What did the plastic seal look like? Is it not possible to make one?
> If no other way, in rubber?

It was a white plastic cylinder, inside diameter about 9 mm, outside
about 11 or 12, length about 10. The hole was a loose fit on the
spindle when I was taking it apart; I think it squeezed it tighter to
form a seal under the pressure from the gland nut.

I'm now wondering about the possibility of improvising something with
a piece of inner tube and silicone grease.

Onetap

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Nov 21, 2010, 12:45:36 PM11/21/10
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It was probably PTFE. IMHO you have no chance of improvising something
from another plastic. You can get PTFE string for re-packing glands;
plumbers usually use PTFE tape twisted into a thread.
If the spindle is scored or grooved it will just wreck it; probably
cheaper to get a new tap, if you put any value on your time.

Adam Funk

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Mar 31, 2011, 8:47:02 AM3/31/11
to
On 2010-11-08, Adam Funk wrote:

> I have a Bristian 1901 kitchen mixer tap, which contains two rising
> spindle taps. The cold one was leaking between the spindle and the
> gland nut, so I opened it up and (stupidly --- yes, I know) scraped
> out the plastic seal, then went to the plumbing shop to look for a
> replacement. It turns out that you can't get them now because Bristan
> changed suppliers for the internal parts about 5 or so years ago., so
> I've been trying to repack the seal the old fashioned way, with
> plumbing hemp. So far, I haven't been able to get a satisfactory,
> lasting result.
>
> Every time I try this, I end up a while later with some problem: the
> hemp leaks out between the spindle and the gland nut; water leaks out
> through the same gap; or the gland nut rotates with the spindle. I've
> tried plain hemp and (now) hemp rubbed with petroleum jelly, and I've
> paid attention to the direction of winding.
>
> If anyone has succeeded in this, I would appreciate any tips.


I just realized my tap has been "stable" for a while --- thanks to the
people who replied --- and I ought to summarize what seemed to work
for me:

- letting the hemp settle in, opening the gland nut, packing
in more hemp, and tightening it back, several times;

- twisting the hemp into a thicker little "rope" so it couldn't ooze
out as easily between the gland nut and the spindle;

- getting some bits of hemp caught in the threads so the nut doesn't
work loose again.

(Thanks again for the advice.)

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