Performance Pro Mitre saw

[Martin Carroll]

B & Q have the "Performance Power Pro Slide Compound Mitre Saw 2000W
250mm" for sale at £112.38, are they worth buying? Anyone bought one
have anything to say about how good/bad it is?

Cheers

Martin
--
Martin Carroll

[Mathew J. Newton]

I've been using one for about a year although given it's the only one
I've ever used it's difficult to say how it compares with others at its
price and/or cheaper/pricier ones.

However, it certainly does what it says on the tin and IMHO very well.
The sliding mechanism is still smooth and secure despite a *lot* of
use. If I had any gripes about it they'd be i) my laser couldn't be
aligned particularly well one axis - the range of adjustment was
slightly too limited, ii) in some configurations the motor body can
fowl the material clamp and given the limited positions available to
put the clamp this can cause problems, and iii) it may as well not have
the dust collection bag - the amount it collects is insignificant with
the amount that ends up on the floor. Regarding the laser, I don't
actually use it anymore - not because it's no good but I can get just
as good accuracy by pre-placing the blade.

The quality of cut is as smooth as you could imagine, and the accuracy
appears spot on (and repeatable) to me... apart from, of course, when I
buy banana wood from B&Q. Speed wise, like all mitre saws, you'll never
lift a hand saw again if you can use the mitre.

All-in-all it's a big thumbs up from me. I certainly don't expect to be
taking advantage of the 3 year guarantee which is one of the reasons I
felt safe buying it (not the implied quality, but rather the
hassle-free aspect of returning it).

Mathew

P.S. Bought a B&Q folding mitre saw bench with adjustable height and
extending supports for £30 which I can also highly recommend.

[r.r...@btinternet.com]

I haven't had any experience with a PP Pro Mitre saw, but I have
purchased a circular saw and a jigsaw from them and I am very pleased
with both. Each one was around the 50-60 quid mark and so far so
good.....

Cheers

Richard

[Rick]

IMHO these are one of the better PPro tools, you need to work hard to
get accuracy, the devices they give to aid you are not much good, but
mine cuts just fine.

Rick

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <6ocvb1tjtl9nstano...@4ax.com>,

Rick <ne...@pen-y-geulan.com> wrote:
> >B & Q have the "Performance Power Pro Slide Compound Mitre Saw 2000W
> >250mm" for sale at £112.38, are they worth buying? Anyone bought one
> >have anything to say about how good/bad it is?

> IMHO these are one of the better PPro tools, you need to work hard to

> get accuracy, the devices they give to aid you are not much good, but
> mine cuts just fine.

Yes. You can do a rough check on this type of saw by seeing how much
sideways movement you can get out of the moving bits. Any slop on the
motor bearings or slide mechanism?

The other thing is the quality of the blade itself.

For accurate 90 and 45 degree cuts I line it up with a drawing square.

--
*Why is 'abbreviation' such a long word?

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Roger King]

replying to Martin Carroll, Roger King wrote:
Great saw until you want to replace the blade. The blade that comes with the
saw is very poor quality but cannot be removed without cutting off the
retaining bolt head and drilling out the remaining shank of the bolt. Avoid
unless you intend to use the saw only a few times.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/performance-pro-mitre-saw-323291-.htm

[Roger Mills]

On 26/12/2016 18:44, Roger King wrote:
> replying to Martin Carroll, Roger King wrote:
> Great saw until you want to replace the blade. The blade that comes with
> the saw is very poor quality but cannot be removed without cutting off the
> retaining bolt head and drilling out the remaining shank of the bolt.

Why? Is there a reason why you can't simply remove the bolt?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

[Tim Lamb]

In message <ecdgll...@mid.individual.net>, Roger Mills
<watt....@gmail.com> writes

>On 26/12/2016 18:44, Roger King wrote:
>> replying to Martin Carroll, Roger King wrote:
>> Great saw until you want to replace the blade. The blade that comes with
>> the saw is very poor quality but cannot be removed without cutting off the
>> retaining bolt head and drilling out the remaining shank of the bolt.
>
>Why? Is there a reason why you can't simply remove the bolt?

Unexpected thread direction?

--
Tim Lamb

[Roger Mills]

It could well be a left-hand thread. But it seems a bit drastic to chop
the head off and drill out the shank. You'd then need to source and fit
another bolt. Odd!

[Roger King]

replying to Roger Mills, Roger King wrote:
Roger Mills - First thing I tried, but the factory fitting made it impossible.
Might have been unlucky with a Monday morning or Friday afternoon unit but
worth a caution to someone thinking of buying the saw. Check if the bolt can
be removed as soon as you have the saw home and return if it won't release.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Monday, 26 December 2016 22:33:41 UTC, Roger Mills wrote:
> On 26/12/2016 22:17, Tim Lamb wrote:
> > In message <ecdgll...@mid.individual.net>, Roger Mills
> > <watt....@gmail.com> writes
> >> On 26/12/2016 18:44, Roger King wrote:
> >>> replying to Martin Carroll, Roger King wrote:

> >>> Great saw until you want to replace the blade. The blade that comes with
> >>> the saw is very poor quality but cannot be removed without cutting
> >>> off the
> >>> retaining bolt head and drilling out the remaining shank of the bolt.
> >>
> >> Why? Is there a reason why you can't simply remove the bolt?
> >
> > Unexpected thread direction?
> >
>
> It could well be a left-hand thread. But it seems a bit drastic to chop
> the head off and drill out the shank. You'd then need to source and fit
> another bolt. Odd!

threadlock probably. It might reduce the warranty returns 1% while ruining the saw 2-3 years later. I definitely have an aversion to PPro stuff.


NT

[Moron Watch]

<tabb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b91077d3-058e-4aed...@googlegroups.com...

The thread holding the blade onto the spindle of a circular saw tightens in the in the
same
direction as the rotation of blade. If the blade was tightened in the other direction
then the
result could be catastrophic with the blade unthreading itself from the saw simply
as a result of the rotation of the blade in use.
Think about it.
Because each use of the saw where the blade meets resistance effectively tightens
the spindle bolt, they can be buggers to loosen using the totally inadequate hex key
supplied in the box with the tool.
Therefore in order to loosen the blade is necessary to exert leverage either by using a
long ratchet handle with the appropriate hex head attached, gripping the long end of the
hex bar with a large pair of pliers, or using a short piece of steel conduit if
available.
HTH

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 27/12/16 10:48, Moron Watch wrote:
> Therefore in order to loosen the blade is necessary to exert leverage
> either by using a long ratchet handle with the appropriate hex head
> attached, gripping the long end of the hex bar with a large pair of
> pliers, or using a short piece of steel conduit if available.

+10001

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, 27 December 2016 08:49:02 UTC, Moron Watch wrote:
> <tabbypurr> wrote in message

> news:b91077d3-058e-4aed...@googlegroups.com...
> > On Monday, 26 December 2016 22:33:41 UTC, Roger Mills wrote:
> >> On 26/12/2016 22:17, Tim Lamb wrote:
> >> > In message <ecdgll...@mid.individual.net>, Roger Mills

> >> > <watt.tyler> writes

That would explain it. That self tightening process doesn't always happen though, I've got one whose blade has repeatedly come loose after manual tightening.


NT

[Roger Mills]

On 27/12/2016 00:44, Roger King wrote:
> replying to Roger Mills, Roger King wrote:
> Roger Mills - First thing I tried, but the factory fitting made it
> impossible.
> Might have been unlucky with a Monday morning or Friday afternoon unit but
> worth a caution to someone thinking of buying the saw. Check if the bolt
> can
> be removed as soon as you have the saw home and return if it won't release.
>

So what happened when you tried? What tools did you use? How much torque
did you apply? Did you consider the possibility that it might be a
left-hand thread?

[Apologies if 'first thing I tried' applied to the left-hand thread
idea, but you didn't quote any of my previous post so I'm not quite sure
exactly what you're replying to.]

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 27/12/16 13:17, Roger Mills wrote:
> On 27/12/2016 00:44, Roger King wrote:
>> replying to Roger Mills, Roger King wrote:
>> Roger Mills - First thing I tried, but the factory fitting made it
>> impossible.
>> Might have been unlucky with a Monday morning or Friday afternoon unit
>> but
>> worth a caution to someone thinking of buying the saw. Check if the bolt
>> can
>> be removed as soon as you have the saw home and return if it won't
>> release.
>>
>
> So what happened when you tried? What tools did you use? How much torque
> did you apply? Did you consider the possibility that it might be a
> left-hand thread?
>
> [Apologies if 'first thing I tried' applied to the left-hand thread
> idea, but you didn't quote any of my previous post so I'm not quite sure
> exactly what you're replying to.]

Back in the day getting a saw blade off me old B & D consisted in
clamping mole grips on the blade, jamming the whole lot against the saw
frame and using a socket and a long bar, or a shorter bar and a hammer.

I expected nothing less. That assembly had to take full moor torque
without slipping.

[John]

"The Natural Philosopher" <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:o3tj10$67p$1...@news.albasani.net...

My 45 year old Black & Decker 9¼" saw is nothing like that.
Never had to use any more than a normal spanner and there is
a hole in the blade so you don’t have to use mole grips either.

[Roger King]

replying to Roger Mills, Roger King wrote:

To Roger MIlls - Can't be sure but I think that the blade clamp might have
been the problem as it had a gouge and lifted section which is possibly what
locked the bolt in place. Removing the bolt shank was not a major problem once
drilled and I could insert a square head into the hole. Still pretty tight. I
got a replacement LH thread bolt from Banggood and cleaned up the blade clamps
and have not had a problem since.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Not the replacememt blade there wasn't after te first on wore out...:-)

[Mike]

replying to Mathew J. Newton, Mike wrote:
Do you know where I can get parts, I broke the tilt adjustment knob?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/performance-pro-mitre-saw-323291-.htm

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, 2 March 2017 19:14:05 UTC, Mike wrote:
> replying to Mathew J. Newton, Mike wrote:
> Do you know where I can get parts, I broke the tilt adjustment knob?

show us a photo. Often they're easy to make from a bolt, nut & disc.


NT

[Mike]

replying to Mike, Mike wrote:
Howdy Folks, I'm writing from Canada and I need a new fence for my saw. I
cannot find a dealer anywhere online. I could use some help. Thx Mike

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Wednesday, 6 September 2017 02:14:05 UTC+1, Mike wrote:
> replying to Mike, Mike wrote:

> Howdy Folks, I'm writing from Canada and I need a new fence for my saw. I
> cannot find a dealer anywhere online. I could use some help. Thx Mike

Maybe start with a picture.

I assume you know you can always use a zero clearance wooden fence.


NT

[Alan Crookes]

replying to Martin Carroll, Alan Crookes wrote:
Hi, did you buy this saw. I acquired one but the guard mechanism seems to have
come apart. Just can’t work out how to put it back together properly if
someone who has one could show me with pictures. Thanks in advance.

[stephen]

I have had one for almost 20 years. Works well but loud. So wear ear defenders. Had to change the blade today as old one was blunt. The reports of hard to remove bolt - as someone said it is reverse thread. Just hold the saw brake and use a 6 inch spanner in wrong direction - comes off ok. Full video here:

https://youtu.be/c-Ha8_zd3Yo

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/performance-pro-mitre-saw-323291-.htm

[Fredxx]

On 18/08/2022 01:01, stephen wrote:
> I have had one for almost 20 years. Works well but loud. So wear ear
> defenders. Had to change the blade today as old one was blunt. The
> reports of hard to remove bolt - as someone said it is reverse thread.
> Just hold the saw brake and use a 6 inch spanner in wrong direction -
> comes off ok. Full video here:
>
> https://youtu.be/c-Ha8_zd3Yo

This is a 17 year old post.

If you want to learn something, take a look at this:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Home_owners_hub

You might learn a thing or two.

[dave]

The 900 watt version has been very good