electro osmotic damp proofing - does it work?
Jake
I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.
Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/dealingrisingdamp.htm
Cheers,
Jake
Andy Hall
My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
direct connection.
IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.
The project as a whole certainly worked, although also consisted of
lowering the ground level outside and putting in some trenches filled
with gravel.
I suspect that it was the ground lowering that really did the job.
--
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Peter Parry
wrote:
>Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work?
It works very well, it is a two part procedure.
Firstly, to install it you have to clear all the rubbish from around
the house and reinstate drains etc.
Secondly, you sacrifice a hamster in the woods at midnight and rub
your copper sticks with its fur. You take a control box from an
electronic water deioniser/dephlogisticator/destickystuffincalcium
thing and connect it to the blessed copper rods.
The damp disappears.
Those that say only stage 1 is needed have simply failed to see the
light and have not paid enough to the dampfmeisters.
--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/
Andy Dingley
wrote:
>IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
>20 year guarantee and so on.
ROFL....
Just how pathetic would a company's behaviour over supporting its
"guarantees" have to be before they became a cowboy outfit ?
Rentokil's was worse.
Electro-osmotic damp-proofing works fine, so long as you really have
an osmotic damp problem. If you have a fibreglass house with
penetrating damp, it's probably worth a try, It might even work for
fibreglass boats, but I imagine the current would need to be enormous.
--
Smert' spamionam
Andy Hall
<din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 21:35:04 +0000, Andy Hall <an...@hall.nospam>
>wrote:
>
>>IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
>>20 year guarantee and so on.
>
>ROFL....
>
>Just how pathetic would a company's behaviour over supporting its
>"guarantees" have to be before they became a cowboy outfit ?
>Rentokil's was worse.
>
Not my purchasing decision. As I recall, (and it was about 40 years
ago), sorting out of a damp course was a mortgage pre-requisite and
this was the least expensive and least disruptive option accepted by
the building society.
You have to remember that in those days building society and bank
managers were God and largely called the shots.
The bulding society also insisted that a meat safe was provided in the
kitchen..
Whether there was a back hander from Rentokil to the building society
manager, I have no idea.
>Electro-osmotic damp-proofing works fine, so long as you really have
>an osmotic damp problem. If you have a fibreglass house with
>penetrating damp, it's probably worth a try, It might even work for
>fibreglass boats, but I imagine the current would need to be enormous.
I didn't say that I thought it actually *did* anything......
Paul King
> My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
> of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
> the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
> direct connection.
>
> IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
> 20 year guarantee and so on.
>
ROFL 20 year guarantee! Coldseal windows gave 10/15/20 year g/tees and where
are they? Re-incarnated as Warmseal! Formally Stormseal, and before that (if
my memory serves well - Guardian Fenster). There should be legislation
against such practices.
I'm not saying that where such guarantees are necessary they shouldn't be
provided - but where a company blatantly builds up such a consumer base
based on such guarantees (and then "goes to the wall" because the
liabilities might overburden them) are allowed to re-incarnate themselves by
changing name with the same directors in charge!
Sorry for stealing the thread!
--
paul....@theobviousdsl.pipex.com
Reply address is spamtrapped. Remove theobvious for valid e-mail address
Andy Hall
<paul....@theobviousdsl.pipex.com> wrote:
>Andy Hall wrote:
>
>> My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
>> of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
>> the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
>> direct connection.
>>
>> IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
>> 20 year guarantee and so on.
>>
>
>ROFL 20 year guarantee!
I completely agree, but was 40 years ago and wasn't my purchasing
decision. I didn't say that I thought it worked either - more than
likely the improvements came from clearing the soild around the house.
It is worth mentioning that Rentokil is still around and in the
property care business. and part of a multinational employing 90,000
people.
>Coldseal windows gave 10/15/20 year g/tees and where
>are they? Re-incarnated as Warmseal! Formally Stormseal, and before that (if
>my memory serves well - Guardian Fenster). There should be legislation
>against such practices.
>
>I'm not saying that where such guarantees are necessary they shouldn't be
>provided - but where a company blatantly builds up such a consumer base
>based on such guarantees (and then "goes to the wall" because the
>liabilities might overburden them) are allowed to re-incarnate themselves by
>changing name with the same directors in charge!
This is a different issue and I don't think applied in the scenario I
described.
What you're describing happens daily on a smaller or larger scale.
The notion of limited companies is to create a separate legal entity
to the individual directors and to separate their finances.
It is very common for companies to overcommit themselves in all sorts
of ways, whether it be guarantees to customers or promises to
suppliers to pay them for goods and services. There's really no
difference - it;'s a commitment made and not kept.
If they exceed their resources and their financial facilities won't
back them, they go broke - simple as that.
If it is then determined that the directors have acted outside the
various Companies Acts, then they may forfeit their immunity from
liability and may also be disqualified from being a director. I know
of an instance where this has happened to somebody for ten years.
It's very easy to talk about legislating this and legislating that,
but hard to make work. There is an ever increasing volume .of
legislation for companies to deal with it as it is and those
determined to be dishonest or sail close to the wind will always be
able to do so.
Sometimes a business can fail for any number of legitimate issues
relating to trading conditions, where the directors are simply unable
to do anything apart from call in the receiver at the point that the
company would become insolvent.
If the reasons are genuine, the law complied with and no misfeasance,
is it reasonable to prevent the directors running a new business?
The difficulty comes with differentiating between something that
follows the letter of the law but is morally questionnable and
something that is less morally questionnable. It becomes a value
judgment.
>
>Sorry for stealing the thread!
I'm not quite sure what guarantees and company legislation had to do
with the original question.
Lobster
news:Vpedncues9D...@pipex.net...
> Andy Hall wrote:
>
>> My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
>> of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
>> the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
>> direct connection.
>>
>> IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
>> 20 year guarantee and so on.
>>
>
> ROFL 20 year guarantee! Coldseal windows gave 10/15/20 year g/tees and
> where are they? Re-incarnated as Warmseal! Formally Stormseal, and before
> that (if my memory serves well - Guardian Fenster). There should be
> legislation against such practices.
In a previous discussion about DPC's and guarantees, I asked if *anyone* had
*ever* heard of any work being carried out under a DPC guarantee.
There were no responses.
Go figure...
David
Jake
wrote:
>>On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:08:21 GMT, jake...@spamBgone.com (Jake) wrote:
Andy, Thanks for the reply. Interesting... Well, if the above process
worked for you parents, perhaps it will work on my house. I might even
employ Rentokil! The guarantee would be worth having - even if only to
help sell the place...
Jake
Andy Hall
I would suggest doing the ground checking/lowering stuff first as well
as airbricks because that costs little to nothing. As I say, I am
not at all convinced that the electro-osmotic stuff actually did
anything.
Pete C
Hi,
Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
from condensation.
Trouble is with these things, if they are done the same time as other
measures, the result is often wrongly attributed.
So do all the other things first, and if there is still excess damp
rising in the wall, then it might be worth a look, even so the cost
needs to be compared with other DPC measures.
It might only be worth it for walls that can't be fitted with a DPC,
like rubble infill walls or interior walls. If the supplier can give
some refs on where it has been used on important historic buildings as
part of a restoration, that counts for something.
Trouble is with genuine rising damp is that it can leave salts in the
wall that attract more damp.
cheers,
Pete.
johnB
wrote:
>>Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
>>from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
>>from condensation.
I'm sure it's not condensation, but it could conceivable be
penetration; I have never investigated the cavities to see if they are
full of debris. I guess that clearing the cavities of debris is high
on the list of things to try first, yes?
>>Trouble is with these things, if they are done the same time as other
>>measures, the result is often wrongly attributed.
>>
>>So do all the other things first, and if there is still excess damp
>>rising in the wall, then it might be worth a look, even so the cost
>>needs to be compared with other DPC measures.
>>
>>It might only be worth it for walls that can't be fitted with a DPC,
>>like rubble infill walls or interior walls. If the supplier can give
>>some refs on where it has been used on important historic buildings as
>>part of a restoration, that counts for something.
>>
>>Trouble is with genuine rising damp is that it can leave salts in the
>>wall that attract more damp.
Thank you for the good suggestions..
Jake
Pete C
>On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:07:53 +0000, Pete C <pete...@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>
>>>Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
>>>from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
>>>from condensation.
>
>I'm sure it's not condensation, but it could conceivable be
>penetration; I have never investigated the cavities to see if they are
>full of debris. I guess that clearing the cavities of debris is high
>on the list of things to try first, yes?
Have a look on Google Groups to read around on it a bit:
<http://groups.google.com/groups?&q=cavity+bridging>
Another good source of info would be the forums at
<http://www.periodproperty.co.uk >
In any case it would be useful to list all the possible causes of the
damp, find ways of proving/disproving them, then consider the
different solutions out there are and their cost/suitability etc.
cheers,
Pete.
johnB
wrote:
>>On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:13:25 GMT, jo...@spamcan.com (johnB) wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:07:53 +0000, Pete C <pete...@gmail.com>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
>>>>>from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
>>>>>from condensation.
>>>
>>>I'm sure it's not condensation, but it could conceivable be
>>>penetration; I have never investigated the cavities to see if they are
>>>full of debris. I guess that clearing the cavities of debris is high
>>>on the list of things to try first, yes?
>>
>>Have a look on Google Groups to read around on it a bit:
>>
>><http://groups.google.com/groups?&q=cavity+bridging>
>>
>>Another good source of info would be the forums at
>><http://www.periodproperty.co.uk >
>>
>>In any case it would be useful to list all the possible causes of the
>>damp, find ways of proving/disproving them, then consider the
>>different solutions out there are and their cost/suitability etc.
Pete, That sounds like a good systematic plan. Thanks. I think that
one reason why the demon damp is so scary and off-putting to buyers,
is that it's so little understood - even by many so-called pros...
JB
Dougie
It was used in the 80 it's a electric current running around the house and you
had to put damp proof chemical in your Base cote as a backup it's not a good
damp product
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/electro-osmotic-damp-proofing-does-it-work-127423-.htm
harry
http://www.heritage-house.org/electro-osmosis-damp-proofing-systems-an-expensive-fraud.html
Claims it's a complete fraud.
Brian Gaff
Brian
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"Dougie" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote in
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newshound
> well-understood science of electrophoresis, and in particular,
> capilliary electrophoresis or electro-osmosis. See
> http://tinyurl.com/jbqng4w and http://tinyurl.com/hhmaz69 , so it's
> not hocus-pocus.
>
> Whether it works in practice or as implemented by individual
> companies, I don't know. Read more about electro-osmotic damp proofing
> in the various articles here http://tinyurl.com/h4hrvdm
>
My mortgage provider required this in my 1780's rubble stone cottage in
the late 80's. It was certainly completely hopeless on the worst
affected wall, the solution to that turned out to be to hack off all the
rendering and repoint with lime mortar giving exposed stone indoors.
Previously, it had been wet at least to ceiling level. I now get traces
of efflorescence a few feet up, but certainly not enough to worry about.
The visible stone/mortar is bone dry. I have (ventilated) wainscotting
to about 3 feet.
An interesting side effect was some form of electrolytic corrosion on
damp earthed parts. I had a 13 amp socket in a standard hot galvanised
metal box in one dampish spot (earthed, of course) and this largely
corroded away in a few years. I used to have a radiator on the wet wall,
copper pipes so everything earthed. The mounting screws corroded away in
less than a year. I then mounted the brackets on 12 inch lengths of 8 mm
austenitic stainless steel studding and these seemed to survive. However
when I moved the radiator some years later, in association with going
back to bare stone I discovered that they had lost at least half the
material, they had become tapered pins reduced in diameter to about 1 mm
at the deepest point.
I think the wire is at about +5 volts, but I can't immediately check it
because it is all rather inaccessible. I believe the wire is titanium
(and it doesn't corrode).
Geo
<caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to Jake,
who posted on November 23, 2004, 3:08 pm
Dougie wrote:
etc
etc
harry
All that happens is themetal rots away.
alan_m
> replying to Jake, Dougie wrote:
> It was used in the 80 it's a electric current running around the house
> and you
> had to put damp proof chemical in your Base cote as a backup it's not a
> good
> damp product
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Phister
newshound
> This is the best response I've ever read on this - thank you!!!
>
"Sorting out of a damp course was a mortgage pre-requisite and this was
society.
You have to remember that in those days building society and bank
managers were God and largely called the shots."
plaster, re-rendering with sand/cement and then skimming with plaster.
It failed dramatically on one wall, and to a lesser extent on another.
There was also another fascinating effect. One damp wall had 13A sockets
in a metal double box (which of course was earthed), over 10 years or so
at least half of the metal simply disappeared, I assume through
electrolytic dissolution under the current sourced from the titanium
wire. I also had a radiator hung on another damp (stone) wall, the
screws (earthed via the radiator and hangers) also rusted away, I
replaced them with 200mm lengths of 6mm stainless steel studding set
into plaster or some sort of filler. When I relocated the radiator 20
years later, the inner half of one stud had "thinned" to about 2mm diameter.
Brian Gaff (Sofa)
since the mid 70s, the only issue is one is slightly cracked in one corner
and the difficulty in fitting window locks.
Brian
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