The partitions they use in offices are very thin. Metal with
plasterboard each side I think.
If you want to comply with building regs, you need mineral wool inside
Someone else may have details of this system.
Personally, I would use 75mm studs, PB each side, overall wall 100mm
There was a system used by house builders once that was basically
several sheets of
plasterboard glued together. Forget about hanging shelves on it
I made partitions out of 18mm particle board flooring. It was
supported firmly at the top and bottom and had steel pins in the
Probably entirely illegal, but it lasted until the kids grew up.
You CAN go down to 2" but its awful shonky. 3" is probably a serious
minimum with wood.
> There was a system used by house builders once that was basically
> several sheets of
> plasterboard glued together. Forget about hanging shelves on it
Do you mean the type that had 2 sheets with cardboard ribs between them
(think of corrugated cardboard construction but bigger and plasterboard
rather than card for the flat surfaces)? Spawn of the devil. :-(
Xenophobia? Sounds a bit foreign to me.
3mm sound insulating foam
I first fitted angle iron around the edge of the wall-to-be and then
trapped it in the ply sandwich. This has worked fine, is rigid and
pretty soundproof and lightweight things can be hung from the wall
- The return of the angle iron is visible on the side walls and needs
to be hidden somehow which was easy in my shower room but might
require more thought in a bedroom
- My wall was not very wide (1.5m). I suppose a wider wall might tend
If overall thickness of the wall is of great concern; a suggestion.
Here, where we use wood frame construction most extensively (almost
exclusively) and it is simpler for a non professional carpenter, such
The thinnest I would go with might be 2" by 3" (50 a 75 mm) wood studs
and probably install, them 'on the flat' so that wall frame will be
only 50 mm thick. Use screws rather than nails; use a single bottom
sole 2x3 plate, securely fastened to existing floor and a top plate
also securely fastened. Using 2by 3s on edge like that is a bit tricky
but can be done, by making them a tight fit and using screws at an
angle. Also extra bridging between studs, for stiffness.
On each side use either 3/8 inch or half inch plasterboard (fire-
code?) . Use plasterboard screws; also consider using construction
glue glue to affix the PB to studs to make a stiffer wall.
Sound proofing won't be the best because both sides of the wall will
be fastened to each wood stud. Although f.glass insulation or acoustic
batts may help.
A regular 2 by 4 (50 by 100mm) stud wall especially with half inch
sheet rock each side and baseboards will have an overall thickness of
roughly 5.5 inches 138mm!!!!!
More adventurous and lightweight could be to rip 2 by 4s down into 2
by 2s (or buy 2x2 studs) and build a very light weight wall; depending
on the PB sheeting each side for stiffness.
PS. Someone gave me a bunch 2by8 and 2by6 from a deteriorated old deck
and fence; making sure all nails were out I was able to run through
bench saw to make usable 2by 6 and 2by4, some of the 'new' 2by6 is now
part of two rough work benches (it was free!). The rotten edge off
cuts and ones not worth saving are for the old Jotul wood stove.
Various 2by4 some more than 8 feet, always useful.
My 1988 house has this construction.
The ceiling and the floor had a strip of wood nailed on and then
plasterboard was fitted to one side. Scraps of plasterboard were stuck onto
the inside face and then another sheet was bonded to it to create the other
I am not impressed, athough I have had no problems in practice. In my spare
room I have a wall mounted cupboard above my PC. It hasn't fallen yet and
has all my discs and protographic stuff in it.
It is very poor at sound insulation.
Is this type of construction still allowed? What was it called? Were there
any regulations controlling this type of construction?
This was called laminating - I had to do a few houses some 15 years back and
found it horrible.
Reasonably solid once completed but a pig of a job to carry out.
You had to put up ceiling and floor battens first, followed by 20mm square
uprights and then try to nail a layer of 12.5mm plasterboard to one side.
Next was a layer of plank (19mm plasterboard) laminated to the inner face
with a sloppy mix of drywall adhesive and providing cutouts for services
(cables, pipes etc) followed by the final layer of 12.5mm plasterboard being
both stuck and nailed.
I haven't heard of it being done for a while though so probably not done any
The other method was paramount dry partition - this was 2 layers of
plasterboard with a corrugated cardboard type inner section. Almost as
horrible to erect as lamnating.
This needed a top and bottom track fitted first, followed by an upright fixe
to one wall.
The paramount was then cut to height and then slid onto between the battens
until it fitted over the upright stud.
Then another upright stud was hammered halfway into the open side and nailed
The process then continued with the next sheet.
To the OP - quite a few new homes still have reasonably thin partition
walls - 50mm metal stud with 25mm acoustic partition roll (fibreglass)
Add 12.5mm plasterboard each side and this will give you a 75mm total