Can cheap skirting look like oak?
David Robinson
oak is £5+/m, and real oak is similar.
We're having some engineered oak doors, and just want to wax them (no
shiny finish for the kids to chip off). It would be nice if the
architrave and skirting vaguely matched, but not at £5/m.
I was looking at liquid beeswax to get a similar finish and colour,
but found an old post on here that suggested applying Colron light oak
stain to pine made it even more yellow - that's not the look we want
at all.
Yeah, I know, don't be so cheap, or it won't look anything like!
It's going on top of oak effect laminate btw. We really are trying to
go for child-proof and cat-proof.
Any ideas?
Cheers,
David.
John MacLeod
wrote:
You can grain it to look like whatever you want. Not difficult at
all, despite allegations to contrary.
However I've never thought of laminate flooring as being remotely
childproof or catproof.
John
Tim Watts
February 2011 22:28:
I'm using real oak skirting - mostly because I never want to paint the
bloody stuff - I hate painting endless miles of wood that gets chipped in a
year and looks crap until the next repaint.
I didn't feel the price was too bad considering some people pay twice as
much for a set of curtains which will be dead in 1/20 of the time that the
skirting is.
But - to address your point - in my old flat I did exactly as you were
suggesting - used pine.
I went over it with a microporous stain/finish of some sort - wasn't pure
Colron - it was more like a Ronseal coating product (not varnish) - I did
mine to a darkish finish, brown and it looked perfectly good with all the
advantages that one could overcoat it later without a tedious rubbing down,
and the finish soaked in leaving a very mild sheen and did not tend to chip
off.
Can't remember exactly what product (I used Ronseal exterior in the bathroom
which was a bit more shiney but tended not to chip off either) - but if you
look in B&Q for something of that type for interior use, it will be very
similar to mine.
Try to select non resionous pine sections - some of the stuff B&Q sell
bleeds goo from everywhere. Wickes IME are a reasonable source for generic
white wood that is mostly straight and dry.
HTH
Tim
--
Tim Watts
Tim Watts
February 2011 22:28:
> Cheap "pine" skirting from local builder's yard is less than £1/m. MDF
Oh - and I would not use stain + wax - tends to look orange and horrible.
--
Tim Watts
The Natural Philosopher
> Cheap "pine" skirting from local builder's yard is less than £1/m. MDF
> oak is £5+/m, and real oak is similar.
>
> We're having some engineered oak doors, and just want to wax them (no
> shiny finish for the kids to chip off). It would be nice if the
> architrave and skirting vaguely matched, but not at £5/m.
>
you are buying at the wrong place.
David Robinson
> I'm using real oak skirting - mostly because I never want to paint the
> bloody stuff - I hate painting endless miles of wood that gets chipped in a
> year and looks crap until the next repaint.
Yes, exactly.
> I didn't feel the price was too bad considering some people pay twice as
> much for a set of curtains which will be dead in 1/20 of the time that the
> skirting is.
True - but my worry is that, as I'm putting it on top of the laminate
(to save beading) it might end up having the same lifetime as the
laminate!
> But - to address your point - in my old flat I did exactly as you were
> suggesting - used pine.
>
> I went over it with a microporous stain/finish of some sort
that sounds like outdoor stuf?
> - wasn't pure
> Colron - it was more like a Ronseal coating product (not varnish) - I did
> mine to a darkish finish, brown and it looked perfectly good with all the
> advantages that one could overcoat it later without a tedious rubbing down,
> and the finish soaked in leaving a very mild sheen and did not tend to chip
> off.
I think that's just what I'm after. Not raw (but stained) wood, not
obviously varnished (not even satin) - just, well, gently waxed look
with nothing to chip.
> Can't remember exactly what product (I used Ronseal exterior in the bathroom
> which was a bit more shiney but tended not to chip off either) - but if you
> look in B&Q for something of that type for interior use, it will be very
> similar to mine.
I'll have another look - they have a lot to choose from.
> Try to select non resionous pine sections - some of the stuff B&Q sell
> bleeds goo from everywhere. Wickes IME are a reasonable source for generic
> white wood that is mostly straight and dry.
Local builder's merchants is really good - it's mostly decent stuff
and they'll let you pick. Strange how they can be really cheap for
some basic things, while other things are far cheaper if ordered off
the net.
> Oh - and I would not use stain + wax - tends to look orange and horrible.
Oh dear. I have some offcuts to test on, but buying a tin or two of
things to test, then another if they're not right, soon wastes some
money.
Cheers,
David.
Tim Watts
February 2011 08:24:
> On Feb 7, 11:30 pm, Tim Watts <t...@dionic.net> wrote:
>
>> I'm using real oak skirting - mostly because I never want to paint the
>> bloody stuff - I hate painting endless miles of wood that gets chipped in
>> a year and looks crap until the next repaint.
>
> Yes, exactly.
>
>> I didn't feel the price was too bad considering some people pay twice as
>> much for a set of curtains which will be dead in 1/20 of the time that
>> the skirting is.
>
> True - but my worry is that, as I'm putting it on top of the laminate
> (to save beading) it might end up having the same lifetime as the
> laminate!
Screw and plug - that's what I did (stainless/brass screws requuired for
oak). It's not hard - bit longer than gluing it on but you can pop the plus
out and unscrew it.
>> But - to address your point - in my old flat I did exactly as you were
>> suggesting - used pine.
>>
>> I went over it with a microporous stain/finish of some sort
>
> that sounds like outdoor stuf?
Don't think it was - there are microporous non external finishes.
Cheers
Tim
--
Tim Watts
D.M.Chapman
John MacLeod <revjohn...@googlemail.com> wrote:
>However I've never thought of laminate flooring as being remotely
>childproof or catproof.
Living in a house where pretty much the entire downstairs is laminate, I'd
say it's fantastically childproof.
Excellent surface for scalextric and lego as well :-)
Darren
Dave Plowman (News)
<ff073aac-b92a-4fbd...@a8g2000pri.googlegroups.com>,
David Robinson <davidr...@postmaster.co.uk> wrote:
> Cheap "pine" skirting from local builder's yard is less than £1/m. MDF
> oak is £5+/m, and real oak is similar.
> We're having some engineered oak doors, and just want to wax them (no
> shiny finish for the kids to chip off). It would be nice if the
> architrave and skirting vaguely matched, but not at £5/m.
I have an engineered real oak floor in one room, and simply stained
whitewood skirting to match it. Sealed with matt water based varnish.
Looks good to me - although purists might notice the grain is different.
--
*Age is a very high price to pay for maturity.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
John Rumm
> It's going on top of oak effect laminate btw. We really are trying to
> go for child-proof and cat-proof.
>
> Any ideas?
Use an upstand of laminate as a skirting (possibly backed with some MDF
strips to add depth), and then put a real oak lipping on the top?
--
Cheers,
John.
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Jules Richardson
> We're having some engineered oak doors, and just want to wax them (no
> shiny finish for the kids to chip off). It would be nice if the
> architrave and skirting vaguely matched, but not at £5/m.
I did some crappy pine tables for some of the houseplants with Minwax red
oak stain and Minwax clear laquer on top, and they match the red oak
stair rail pretty well - the colour's slightly darker, but not enough
that it bothers me.
After that experience, I'm considering going the same way for the
skirting too, mainly because I want something slightly taller and thicker
than the typical skirting sold.
cheers
Jules