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boiler fan and other boiler questions
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Stephen
Jan 15, 2016, 2:07:04 PM1/15/16
to
Hello,
This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
"far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
reach?
Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
dried out with age? I know Geoff is recommended in these parts. Is it
time to buy a new one from him?
I would like to get a new boiler one day but I currently have a combi
and I would like to change it either to something with a cylinder, so
that I have backup hot water, or possibly I might look into a heat
bank. I would also like to move it to the other side of the kitchen. I
was hoping I could re plumb the water bits, add the cylinder and
header tank etc. myself, before buying a new boiler, to keep the costs
of the replacement down. As it will take me months to get round to it,
I was hoping to keep this boiler going for a bit longer.
My question is, how could I get a gas qualification, so that I would
be able to do all of the replacement when the time comes? A quick
google suggests I need a to start with an NVQ level 1, then do NVQ
level 2, then NVQ level 3, and then spend several hours under the
supervision of a plumber. That's great if you want to go into it
professionally, but I think it would take too long and be too
expensive for a DIYer.
Thanks,
Stephen.
This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
"far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
reach?
Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
dried out with age? I know Geoff is recommended in these parts. Is it
time to buy a new one from him?
I would like to get a new boiler one day but I currently have a combi
and I would like to change it either to something with a cylinder, so
that I have backup hot water, or possibly I might look into a heat
bank. I would also like to move it to the other side of the kitchen. I
was hoping I could re plumb the water bits, add the cylinder and
header tank etc. myself, before buying a new boiler, to keep the costs
of the replacement down. As it will take me months to get round to it,
I was hoping to keep this boiler going for a bit longer.
My question is, how could I get a gas qualification, so that I would
be able to do all of the replacement when the time comes? A quick
google suggests I need a to start with an NVQ level 1, then do NVQ
level 2, then NVQ level 3, and then spend several hours under the
supervision of a plumber. That's great if you want to go into it
professionally, but I think it would take too long and be too
expensive for a DIYer.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Andrew Gabriel
Jan 15, 2016, 2:27:31 PM1/15/16
to
In article <4vfi9blphnrjsov1g...@4ax.com>,
shaft goes through. You can only temporarily lubricate it once
this has happened - it needs new bearings which are impregnated
with lubrication - you can't impregnate old bearings, so you can't
get any lubrication to work long term.
BTW, they use oil and not grease at these speeds.
> Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
Yes.
> dried out with age? I know Geoff is recommended in these parts. Is it
> time to buy a new one from him?
>
> I would like to get a new boiler one day but I currently have a combi
> and I would like to change it either to something with a cylinder, so
> that I have backup hot water, or possibly I might look into a heat
You can always just ignore the combi/hot water side and use it as
a system boiler with a hot water cylinder, or perhaps use the
combi part for a top floor shower for pressure, and the hot water
cyclinder for everything else.
> bank. I would also like to move it to the other side of the kitchen. I
> was hoping I could re plumb the water bits, add the cylinder and
> header tank etc. myself, before buying a new boiler, to keep the costs
> of the replacement down. As it will take me months to get round to it,
> I was hoping to keep this boiler going for a bit longer.
>
> My question is, how could I get a gas qualification, so that I would
> be able to do all of the replacement when the time comes? A quick
You don't need qualifications to do it yourself, although you do
need to be competent. When I did mine, I had read though the gas
regs and Corgi book at the time, and was already competent at
plumbing with end-feed soldered fittings, and had serviced gas
boilers before.
How much plumbing have you done before, and what type of pipe and
fittings have you used?
> google suggests I need a to start with an NVQ level 1, then do NVQ
> level 2, then NVQ level 3, and then spend several hours under the
> supervision of a plumber. That's great if you want to go into it
> professionally, but I think it would take too long and be too
> expensive for a DIYer.
Most expensive part was that I bought a flue gas analyser, although
that was only after realising the supposedly preset gas mixture was
actually miles off. (Everyone found the same with that boiler model.)
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Stephen <re...@to.newsgroup.invalid> writes:
> Hello,
>
> This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
> spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
> the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
> pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
> spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
> expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
>
> I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
> onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
> effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
> "far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
> reach?
There's a bearing on each end of the motor, which the armature
> Hello,
>
> This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
> spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
> the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
> pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
> spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
> expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
>
> I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
> onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
> effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
> "far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
> reach?
shaft goes through. You can only temporarily lubricate it once
this has happened - it needs new bearings which are impregnated
with lubrication - you can't impregnate old bearings, so you can't
get any lubrication to work long term.
BTW, they use oil and not grease at these speeds.
> Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
> dried out with age? I know Geoff is recommended in these parts. Is it
> time to buy a new one from him?
>
> I would like to get a new boiler one day but I currently have a combi
> and I would like to change it either to something with a cylinder, so
> that I have backup hot water, or possibly I might look into a heat
a system boiler with a hot water cylinder, or perhaps use the
combi part for a top floor shower for pressure, and the hot water
cyclinder for everything else.
> bank. I would also like to move it to the other side of the kitchen. I
> was hoping I could re plumb the water bits, add the cylinder and
> header tank etc. myself, before buying a new boiler, to keep the costs
> of the replacement down. As it will take me months to get round to it,
> I was hoping to keep this boiler going for a bit longer.
>
> My question is, how could I get a gas qualification, so that I would
> be able to do all of the replacement when the time comes? A quick
need to be competent. When I did mine, I had read though the gas
regs and Corgi book at the time, and was already competent at
plumbing with end-feed soldered fittings, and had serviced gas
boilers before.
How much plumbing have you done before, and what type of pipe and
fittings have you used?
> google suggests I need a to start with an NVQ level 1, then do NVQ
> level 2, then NVQ level 3, and then spend several hours under the
> supervision of a plumber. That's great if you want to go into it
> professionally, but I think it would take too long and be too
> expensive for a DIYer.
that was only after realising the supposedly preset gas mixture was
actually miles off. (Everyone found the same with that boiler model.)
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Phil L
Jan 15, 2016, 2:45:13 PM1/15/16
to
qualifications, the cost of the courses and exams will outweigh the cost of
having someone come and do it for you.
If it's for your own house, you only need to be competent, that is, if you
are able to perform basic plumbing, are confident wiring it in, can test for
leaks etc and use common sense WRT positioning, you'll be fine.
I swapped mine over 8 years ago and it's still working OK....the only
plumbing I'd done prior to this was an outside tap
TomSawer
Jan 15, 2016, 2:48:06 PM1/15/16
to
On 15/01/2016 19:24, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> In article <4vfi9blphnrjsov1g...@4ax.com>,
> Stephen <re...@to.newsgroup.invalid> writes:
>> Hello,
>>
>> This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
>> spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
>> the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
>> pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
>> spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
>> expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
>>
>> I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
>> onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
>> effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
>> "far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
>> reach?
>
> There's a bearing on each end of the motor, which the armature
> shaft goes through. You can only temporarily lubricate it once
> this has happened - it needs new bearings which are impregnated
> with lubrication - you can't impregnate old bearings, so you can't
> get any lubrication to work long term.
>
> BTW, they use oil and not grease at these speeds.
>
>> Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
>>
>
Are you sure its the fan?
> In article <4vfi9blphnrjsov1g...@4ax.com>,
> Stephen <re...@to.newsgroup.invalid> writes:
>> Hello,
>>
>> This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
>> spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
>> the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
>> pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
>> spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
>> expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
>>
>> I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
>> onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
>> effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
>> "far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
>> reach?
>
> There's a bearing on each end of the motor, which the armature
> shaft goes through. You can only temporarily lubricate it once
> this has happened - it needs new bearings which are impregnated
> with lubrication - you can't impregnate old bearings, so you can't
> get any lubrication to work long term.
>
> BTW, they use oil and not grease at these speeds.
>
>> Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
>>
>
I had the same ssymptoms/problem with mine and it turned out to be the
heat exchanger coil. This is small bore and easily starts to fur up.
This can cause a kettling/rattling noise and sounds just like a fan.
Stephen
Jan 15, 2016, 4:57:04 PM1/15/16
to
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 19:24:44 -0000 (UTC), and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>There's a bearing on each end of the motor, which the armature
>shaft goes through.
That explains it then, I have only sprayed one end.
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>There's a bearing on each end of the motor, which the armature
>shaft goes through.
>You can only temporarily lubricate it once
>this has happened - it needs new bearings which are impregnated
>with lubrication - you can't impregnate old bearings, so you can't
>get any lubrication to work long term.
>
>BTW, they use oil and not grease at these speeds.
oil/grease: do slow fans use grease or do slow fans use oil?
>You don't need qualifications to do it yourself, although you do
>need to be competent. When I did mine, I had read though the gas
>regs and Corgi book at the time, and was already competent at
>plumbing with end-feed soldered fittings, and had serviced gas
>boilers before.
>How much plumbing have you done before, and what type of pipe and
>fittings have you used?
"upgraded" to end-feed. I'm not perfect at it though, I still use too
much solder but better safe than sorry ;)
I've mainly used copper but also polybutylene pipe (the latter
obviously not with end feed!).
Thanks,
Stephen.
Stephen
Jan 15, 2016, 4:59:16 PM1/15/16
to
No, I just assumed it was since it started at the same time the fan
starts spinning.
>I had the same ssymptoms/problem with mine and it turned out to be the
>heat exchanger coil. This is small bore and easily starts to fur up.
>This can cause a kettling/rattling noise and sounds just like a fan.
I don't know how long the boiler has been here, nor how well the water
was maintained with additives etc, so it could be. I did put a
magnaclean on it and replaced the inhibitor when I moved in.
I guess it is a process of elimination: try a reconditioned fan and if
that doesn't work some sort of anti-kettling additive? Or perhaps the
other way around to save on cost?
Thanks,
Stephen.
starts spinning.
>I had the same ssymptoms/problem with mine and it turned out to be the
>heat exchanger coil. This is small bore and easily starts to fur up.
>This can cause a kettling/rattling noise and sounds just like a fan.
was maintained with additives etc, so it could be. I did put a
magnaclean on it and replaced the inhibitor when I moved in.
I guess it is a process of elimination: try a reconditioned fan and if
that doesn't work some sort of anti-kettling additive? Or perhaps the
other way around to save on cost?
Thanks,
Stephen.
Stephen
Jan 15, 2016, 5:01:29 PM1/15/16
to
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 19:45:25 -0000, "Phil L"
<neverc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Unless you intend working as a plumber after you've gained these
>qualifications, the cost of the courses and exams will outweigh the cost of
>having someone come and do it for you.
That's what I was thinking, and how could I afford to spend x months
<neverc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Unless you intend working as a plumber after you've gained these
>qualifications, the cost of the courses and exams will outweigh the cost of
>having someone come and do it for you.
working as a plumber's apprentice.
>If it's for your own house, you only need to be competent,
>if you are able to perform basic plumbing, are confident wiring it in, can test for
>leaks etc and use common sense WRT positioning, you'll be fine.
that using that leak detector spray? Don't you have to pressure test
it too?
Thanks,
Stephen.
John Rumm
Jan 15, 2016, 5:17:41 PM1/15/16
to
On 15/01/2016 19:07, Stephen wrote:
> Hello,
>
> This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
> spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
> the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
> pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
> spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
> expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
>
> I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
> onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
> effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
> "far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
> reach?
>
> Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
> dried out with age? I know Geoff is recommended in these parts. Is it
> time to buy a new one from him?
He will do you a recon exchange - you buy a rebuilt one, and send yours
> Hello,
>
> This morning the boiler started making noises. When the fan starts
> spinning it makes a noise. I don't know how to describe it. A howl is
> the best I can describe it but that suggests it is loud and high
> pitched and it isn't exactly either of those. Once the fan has been
> spinning for a while, the noise seems to go away. Perhaps the fan
> expands as it gets hotter and that somehow stops the noise?
>
> I can get to the back of the fan and I have sprayed some white grease
> onto the bit of the fan I can see but it doesn't seem to have had any
> effect. Where is the bearing that I need to lubricate? Is it at the
> "far end" of the fan, that would involve having to dismantle things to
> reach?
>
> Are these known symptoms of a failing fan? I presume the grease has
> dried out with age? I know Geoff is recommended in these parts. Is it
> time to buy a new one from him?
back when you are done.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
Chris French
Jan 15, 2016, 5:32:55 PM1/15/16
to
In message <ttqi9bpnqdo24qvcb...@4ax.com>, Stephen
<re...@to.newsgroup.invalid> writes
You need to do a pressure drop test.
The process is detailed in Ed's Gas Fitting Faq:
<http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Gas_fitting_FAQ>
--
Chris French
<re...@to.newsgroup.invalid> writes
The process is detailed in Ed's Gas Fitting Faq:
<http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Gas_fitting_FAQ>
--
Chris French
Andrew Gabriel
Jan 15, 2016, 6:41:02 PM1/15/16
to
In article <seqi9bpvnquvn9rh5...@4ax.com>,
OTOH, if it has ball bearings (which have rolling parts with very
little sliding), then these are greased.
>>You don't need qualifications to do it yourself, although you do
>>need to be competent. When I did mine, I had read though the gas
>>regs and Corgi book at the time, and was already competent at
>>plumbing with end-feed soldered fittings, and had serviced gas
>>boilers before.
>
> Thanks, I will have to see what is available to read.
>
>>How much plumbing have you done before, and what type of pipe and
>>fittings have you used?
>
> I started off using compression, doesn't everyone? I've since
> "upgraded" to end-feed. I'm not perfect at it though, I still use too
> much solder but better safe than sorry ;)
Seems to be common with some plumbers too - not satisfied until
there's a puddle of solder on the floor underneath. Not thinking
there might well be a similar amount inside the pipe too...
Ideally, you see a shiny ring of solder just around the join.
If you use more than that, it might just be hiding part of the
join which is not soldered.
Stephen <re...@to.newsgroup.invalid> writes:
> On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 19:24:44 -0000 (UTC), and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk
> (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>
>>There's a bearing on each end of the motor, which the armature
>>shaft goes through.
>
> That explains it then, I have only sprayed one end.
>
>>You can only temporarily lubricate it once
>>this has happened - it needs new bearings which are impregnated
>>with lubrication - you can't impregnate old bearings, so you can't
>>get any lubrication to work long term.
>>
>>BTW, they use oil and not grease at these speeds.
>
> What sort of speed do they rotate at? Which way round is the use of
> oil/grease: do slow fans use grease or do slow fans use oil?
Sleve bearings with sliding parts are oiled.
> On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 19:24:44 -0000 (UTC), and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk
> (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>
>>There's a bearing on each end of the motor, which the armature
>>shaft goes through.
>
> That explains it then, I have only sprayed one end.
>
>>You can only temporarily lubricate it once
>>this has happened - it needs new bearings which are impregnated
>>with lubrication - you can't impregnate old bearings, so you can't
>>get any lubrication to work long term.
>>
>>BTW, they use oil and not grease at these speeds.
>
> What sort of speed do they rotate at? Which way round is the use of
> oil/grease: do slow fans use grease or do slow fans use oil?
OTOH, if it has ball bearings (which have rolling parts with very
little sliding), then these are greased.
>>You don't need qualifications to do it yourself, although you do
>>need to be competent. When I did mine, I had read though the gas
>>regs and Corgi book at the time, and was already competent at
>>plumbing with end-feed soldered fittings, and had serviced gas
>>boilers before.
>
> Thanks, I will have to see what is available to read.
>
>>How much plumbing have you done before, and what type of pipe and
>>fittings have you used?
>
> I started off using compression, doesn't everyone? I've since
> "upgraded" to end-feed. I'm not perfect at it though, I still use too
> much solder but better safe than sorry ;)
there's a puddle of solder on the floor underneath. Not thinking
there might well be a similar amount inside the pipe too...
Ideally, you see a shiny ring of solder just around the join.
If you use more than that, it might just be hiding part of the
join which is not soldered.
Stephen
Jan 20, 2016, 4:06:18 AM1/20/16
to
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 22:30:01 +0000, Chris French
<new...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote:
>You need to do a pressure drop test.
>
>The process is detailed in Ed's Gas Fitting Faq:
>
><http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Gas_fitting_FAQ>
Yes, I found that and found it very helpful. Are there any other
<new...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote:
>You need to do a pressure drop test.
>
>The process is detailed in Ed's Gas Fitting Faq:
>
><http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Gas_fitting_FAQ>
online sources to read?
Stephen
Jan 20, 2016, 4:15:18 AM1/20/16
to
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 23:38:16 -0000 (UTC), and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>Seems to be common with some plumbers too - not satisfied until
>there's a puddle of solder on the floor underneath. Not thinking
>there might well be a similar amount inside the pipe too...
I hadn't thought of that. I'll have to be more careful in the future.
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>Seems to be common with some plumbers too - not satisfied until
>there's a puddle of solder on the floor underneath. Not thinking
>there might well be a similar amount inside the pipe too...
I hope practice will make perfect.
>Ideally, you see a shiny ring of solder just around the join.
>If you use more than that, it might just be hiding part of the
>join which is not soldered.
water leak or would it be too small to notice?
As an update, I have fitted a new fan and it is much quieter now.
I found an exploded diagram here:
http://www.plumbase.co.uk/sime-super-90-10000889-3549887/explodedviews
You have to hover the cursor over it to enlarge, I would have
preferred something I could have enlarged manually.
There is a seal between the fan and the flue, it is part 23 on that
diagram. I have moved the old one across as a temporary measure but it
is looking like it is starting to dry out, so I think a replacement is
advised.
There is a smaller washer, part 22, that sits beneath it. That is dry
and brittle looking too. I can't work out what that is for. Is it a
back-up in case the other seal leaks?
I think they are about £17 each at the plumbers merchants. It seems a
lot for small rings of plastic: together the two of them will cost
almost as much as the replacement fan!
Thanks,
Stephen.
newshound
Jan 20, 2016, 4:37:12 PM1/20/16
to
On 15/01/2016 19:07, Stephen wrote:
noise. I've currently got it on my halogen cooker but I have had it in
boiler fans in the past (and numerous other things).
The bearings at each end of the armature are little phosphor bronze
spheres, in a shaped clamp so that they are self-aligning. They have a
diametral hole which carries the armature which should spin with respect
to the bearing. Actually they are a porous bronze impregnated with
mineral oil, "Oilite" is one proprietary name.
A drop of 3 in 1 or a spray of WD40 will normally silence them, which
provides a 100% positive confirmation. They should last a while after
adding oil, less long after using WD40. You can recover them by
dismantling and soaking in oil (3 in 1 is good) but you may have
corrosion on the shaft or wear and/or debris deposited in the bore so
slightly more fettling may be necessary. Some are easier to strip than
others.
newshound
Jan 20, 2016, 4:42:46 PM1/20/16
to
with clear flexible tube, the sort which is used to feed airstones in
fish tanks. Add a drop of ink or food dye to make it easier to read.
ISTR that boiler installation manuals usually quote the leak criterion
which is something like 10 mm water gauge loss of pressure in a minute
(JUST MY BALLPARK RECOLLECTION, THE FIGURE IS ON-LINE).
John Rumm
Jan 21, 2016, 10:38:31 AM1/21/16
to
Standards documents[1]... If so, looking at the various BS docs about
gas fitting is very informative.
BS 5440 - flues
BS 5482 - code of practice for butane and propane (domestic)
BS 5871 (3 parts) gas fires
BS 6172 cooking appliances
BS 6798 boilers
BS 6891 gas pipework in general
BS 7593 code of practice for water treatment in CH systems
If you have a search of some of the torrent search engines, you may be
able to track down a copy of Tolley's Domestic Gas Installation Practice
book - (one of the industry key reference manuals)
[1] If not, there may be some folks on the group who would be prepared
to email you some of them.
Stephen
Jan 25, 2016, 5:28:22 AM1/25/16
to
On Thu, 21 Jan 2016 15:38:27 +0000, John Rumm
<see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>Your local library card number may allow online access to the British
>Standards documents[1]... If so, looking at the various BS docs about
>gas fitting is very informative.
>
>BS 5440 - flues
>BS 5482 - code of practice for butane and propane (domestic)
>BS 5871 (3 parts) gas fires
>BS 6172 cooking appliances
>BS 6798 boilers
>BS 6891 gas pipework in general
>BS 7593 code of practice for water treatment in CH systems
>
>If you have a search of some of the torrent search engines, you may be
>able to track down a copy of Tolley's Domestic Gas Installation Practice
>book - (one of the industry key reference manuals)
Thank you. As the fan is fixed, I am hoping to leave changing the
<see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>Your local library card number may allow online access to the British
>Standards documents[1]... If so, looking at the various BS docs about
>gas fitting is very informative.
>
>BS 5440 - flues
>BS 5482 - code of practice for butane and propane (domestic)
>BS 5871 (3 parts) gas fires
>BS 6172 cooking appliances
>BS 6798 boilers
>BS 6891 gas pipework in general
>BS 7593 code of practice for water treatment in CH systems
>
>If you have a search of some of the torrent search engines, you may be
>able to track down a copy of Tolley's Domestic Gas Installation Practice
>book - (one of the industry key reference manuals)
boiler for a while. Lots of other DIY to do in the meantime! I will
try and find these and have a good read.
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