It's got to be smaller than a Ford Transit; that's for sure. Toyota
Lite-Ace would be nice but I guess they are too short to fit 8' x 4'
sheets in...
Many thanks and happy boxing day..
K
Remember the smaller the vehicle the less weight you will be able to carry
(legally).
>
> It's got to be smaller than a Ford Transit that's for sure. Toyota
> Lite-Ace would be nice but I guess they are too short to fit 8' x 4'
> sheets in...
Well, seeing that the Ford Transit in it's SWB version has been the day-faco
standard that all other van maker has tried to equal in the class...
Why does it need to be smaller than a Transit, if I may ask ?
Most builders merchants will deliver, some will charge some won't, so why go
to the expense of getting a big enough van? If you have enough storage space
you can order it all in one hit.
Also check with your insurance company wether you can get insurance on a
medium size van using your no claims off your car.
The following link will give you dimensions to most modern vans
http://www.whatvan.co.uk/search.asp
"Kat" <Katc...@ydbttvou.com> wrote in message
news:41ceeef7...@news.individual.net...
>
Good suggestions, worth considering! Thank you...
K
>>I'm pretty sure (as my mate has one) that the swb trannie is the same length
>>as a normal car. My mate couldn't have anything bigger, otherwise there
>>wouldn't be any parking spaces big enough outside his terraced house.
I think that's about right. Nevertheless, I still think they are too
cumbersome for everyday driving. Perhaps its the width and/or the
height of the seats or something. I've hired them on occasion.
>>The following link will give you dimensions to most modern vans
>>http://www.whatvan.co.uk/search.asp
That's very useful - thank you
K
>>Remember the smaller the vehicle the less weight you will be able to carry
>>(legally).
Didn't know that - thanks. Hopwever, I don't plan to carry much weight
at once. Having said that, I guess ten sheets of 12mm plasterboard
must weigh quite a bit...
>>> It's got to be smaller than a Ford Transit that's for sure. Toyota
>>> Lite-Ace would be nice but I guess they are too short to fit 8' x 4'
>>> sheets in...
>>
>>Well, seeing that the Ford Transit in it's SWB version has been the day-faco
>>standard that all other van maker has tried to equal in the class...
>>
>>Why does it need to be smaller than a Transit, if I may ask ?
Because it'll be my only transport for several months so I'll be using
it for nipping up to the shops in the built-up area where I live, and
zipping off on 30 mile trips in (hopefully) reasonably relaxed
comfort. I dread driving transits unless I really have to. I find
them so cumbersome. I'd like something narrower, like Hi Ace perhaps -
though I've never driven one, they look like they might be more
manoeverable than a transit.
Cheers,
K
>>Most builders merchants will deliver, some will charge some won't, so why go
>>to the expense of getting a big enough van?
Apart from fetching building materials, I'll need it when I move
house. I envisage shifting my stuff in dribs and drabs rather than in
one shipload via a removal co.
Cheers,
K
Well, unless you either don't have a sofa (or sofa sized stuff) or go for a
pick-up, something smaller than a Transit sized van will be more trouble
than it's worth in the removals dept.
--
Reply to group please.
begin .......nothing!
Hm, forward control, not nice if your not used to it or confident...
A builder friend had an old Nissan Vanette (which just died after many
years, 270K miles, an no maintenance unless you count adding diesel!).
You could get full size sheets in that, it was a fair bit smaller than a
transsit, it also had a tiny turning circle. The only limitation I found
was that the seat would not go far enough back to make driving it
comfortable for me, but then again I am taller than most.
--
Cheers,
John.
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Good point - thanks; but I have avoided sofas, and beds that can't be
dismantled or folded. What you said about forward controls in the Hi
Ace is a good point though. I have to admit I've never driven one, but
the lack of substance between me and the hypothetical concrete lamp
post I drive into is a bit unsettling... ;-)
K
>>Kat wrote:
>>
>>> I'm looking for a van for use when I renovate my house, then move out.
>>> I want something small as possible (because it will be my only vehicle
>>> for a while) However, it must be big enough to carry 4' x 8' sheets of
>>> plasterboard, MDF etc inside. Anyone suggest some models?
>>> Toyota Hi-ace? Nissan Vanette? Others?
>>>
>>> It's got to be smaller than a Ford Transit; that's for sure. Toyota
>>> Lite-Ace would be nice but I guess they are too short to fit 8' x 4'
>>> sheets in...
>>
>>A builder friend had an old Nissan Vanette (which just died after many
>>years, 270K miles, an no maintenance unless you count adding diesel!).
>>You could get full size sheets in that, it was a fair bit smaller than a
>>transsit, it also had a tiny turning circle. The only limitation I found
>>was that the seat would not go far enough back to make driving it
>>comfortable for me, but then again I am taller than most.
Hi John, Thanks for the suggestion. I was looking at one of those
today, and I must say it looked about right for me, size-wize, except
that it didn't look as though an 8ft sheet of board would fit in the
back. The space only looked about 6ft long. Perhaps your friend's was
a different model though.
K
Ive managed quite well so far with my VW Scirocco, cement mixer fit in
just about etc. ;-)
When I ever get to plasterboard I'd go hire a van, less hassle than
buying and insuring one when you won't be using it 90% of the time as
a van?
£40.00 a day for a transit.
Mark S.
> I'm looking for a van for use when I renovate my house, then move out.
> I want something small as possible (because it will be my only vehicle
> for a while) However, it must be big enough to carry 4' x 8' sheets of
> plasterboard,
<snip>
I got tired of using a van years ago.
(Although I still have a Leyland 3ton for really big stuff :-) )
Now use a Volvo 940 estate cheaper to buy/insure/run than a van and just as
big inside.
I have a swb trannie, 1270kg payload, 8 by 4 sheets with ease, changing room
for canoeing. It has an incredible turning circle, shorter than my other
halfs rover 25. Its economical, comfortable, parts are cheap and readily
available. I have driven many large vans at work and nothing even comes
close to the transit IMHO.
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>Remember the smaller the vehicle the less weight you will be able to carry
>(legally).
My van is a Vauxhall Combo which is a boxy car derived van and it can
carry a ton(ne?) and a half cos it is the version with improved
suspension, so size isn't everything. At least that is what my ex said
:)
Its too small for 8*4 sheets and three seater sofas but its fine for
dribs and drabs house move and for cement mixers. Ford stopped making
the Escort van a while ago and I guess that is cos builders have
discovered that the boxy shape vans are much easier to get stuff in
and out of than are estate car derived ones
Being car derived (the Corsa) its easy to drive and its cheap to run
too. I suggest you look at Combo or other manufacturers equivalent
Renault Trafic etc
Anna
~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642
Personally, I would choose the car I need, have a tow hook fitted on it, and
either hire a trailer when I needed one or, if the use justified it, buy
one.
For example, the Ifor Williams BV5 will take 2400 x 1200 mm sheets flat
inside
http://www.iwt.co.uk/products/boxvan/bv5.htm
or the BV4 will take them standing on edge
http://www.iwt.co.uk/products/boxvan/bv4.htm
I used one of the latter to take furniture the length of France a couple of
years ago.
My local Ifor Williams dealer hires out trailers and I would be surprised if
others did not do so as well.
Colin Bignell
Before you go ahead, check up on the insurance situation.
It might be cheaper to get a big old Volvo estate.
--
*Why is it that to stop Windows 95, you have to click on "Start"?
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Its a transit, a pickup or a trailer.
Take yer pick.
Frankly, I use a Land Rover, because the builders merchant delivers the
big stuff.
>>
>>"Mark" <ma...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
>>news:LHIzd.1425$rc2....@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
>>> Kat Katc...@ydbttvou.com typed:
>>>
>>>> I'm looking for a van for use when I renovate my house, then move out.
>>>> I want something small as possible (because it will be my only vehicle
>>>> for a while) However, it must be big enough to carry 4' x 8' sheets of
>>>> plasterboard,
>>>
>>> <snip>
>>> I got tired of using a van years ago.
>>> (Although I still have a Leyland 3ton for really big stuff :-) )
>>> Now use a Volvo 940 estate cheaper to buy/insure/run than a van and just
>>> as
>>> big inside.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I have a swb trannie, 1270kg payload, 8 by 4 sheets with ease, changing room
>>for canoeing. It has an incredible turning circle, shorter than my other
>>halfs rover 25. Its economical, comfortable, parts are cheap and readily
>>available. I have driven many large vans at work and nothing even comes
>>close to the transit IMHO.
That was Jeremy Clerkson's conclusion too - especially for racing
other makes of similar sized vans around the Top Gear race track,
IIRC!
As it happens, I have a canoe too... I'm thinking of buying a cheap
tranny for the purposes I mentioned, then converting it into a camper
van after the DIY and moving is complete. I did that once before with
a similar van. The lack of windows made it great for sleeping
overnight just about anywhere, rather than paying out for a hotel.
having said that, all-round windows are such a boon when it comes to
driving and parking.
K
Hi Colin, Thanks for this excellent suggestion. I've never seen
trailers for hire in my area but I'd venture to guess that If I look
hard enough, I'll find some. It might even make sense for me to buy
one, since those horse-box type trailers seem like quite a secure form
of lockable storage which might be very useful when I come to move
house.
Thanks again
K
>>In article <41ceeef7...@news.individual.net>,
>> Kat <Katc...@ydbttvou.com> wrote:
>>> I'm looking for a van for use when I renovate my house, then move out.
>>> I want something small as possible (because it will be my only vehicle
>>> for a while) However, it must be big enough to carry 4' x 8' sheets of
>>> plasterboard, MDF etc inside. Anyone suggest some models?
>>> Toyota Hi-ace? Nissan Vanette? Others?
>>
>>Before you go ahead, check up on the insurance situation.
>>
>>It might be cheaper to get a big old Volvo estate.
It might, indeed. Thanks. Especially one with a tow bar... But why a
Volvo, in particular?
K
Reassure yourself with the thought that hypothetical lamp posts only cause
hypothetical injuries :-)
Owain
They are just about the largest (load wise) estate car available outside the
USA, that's why !
But be warned, they are looooong....
I went for a trailer, and never regretted it, easy to load and unload,
ideal for those numerous trips to the local tip, where in most cases
high vehicles are prohibited. I bought mine from a local one man
manufacturer, he will make them to your specification, though that is
Stoke on Trent I would imagine there is one in most areas. A little
thought and some strong polythene will cover you good in transit.
That's an important consideration - many tips nowadays have height limits, but I vaguelly recollect
seeing one that also banned trailers....
As you will presumably only occasionally need the full 8x4' capacity, how about an estate car with a
roofrack ?
Our 740 - sadly now laid up in the workshop with a knackered transmission -
would take a hell of a lot but not an 8X4 sheet, well not flat anyway. The
bed is about 6 feet long with the seats down but only about 43 inches across
between the wheel arches. Maybe you could get some in at an angle but I
recall there was some sort of problem with that so we always borrowed a car
and trailer or had the sheets cut to fit. The height of the load area is
disappointing in my opinion. The 940 has the same dimensions I believe.
An estate that has a bigger load area is the Citroen XM or I presume the
newer C5, but after having an older XM and from what I've heard about the
reliability of the C5 I'm not sure I'd recommend them.
As to the length of the Volvo I never found it a problem at all. I think the
reason it's not a problem is the really good turning circle, you can get in
and out of tight parking spaces with ease. A lot easier I found than with
our much smaller Saab 900. Best thing about the Volvo was the way traffic in
your path seemed to part in terror upon seeing you approach - even BMW
drivers :-)
Sam
That may be the answer. Thanks. Anyone recommend an estate car that
accelerates fast, is reliable, cheap to run, comfortable, handles well
on corners and in crosswinds, has a good bit of carrying space, and
doesn't go rusty around the sills? I don't want much eh? ;-)
K
> That may be the answer. Thanks. Anyone recommend an estate car that
> accelerates fast, is reliable, cheap to run, comfortable, handles well
> on corners and in crosswinds, has a good bit of carrying space, and
> doesn't go rusty around the sills? I don't want much eh? ;-)
Volvo V70 R :-)
/Morten
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>>
>>"Kat" <Katc...@ydbttvou.com> wrote in message
>>news:41d034de...@news.individual.net...
>>
>>> That may be the answer. Thanks. Anyone recommend an estate car that
>>> accelerates fast, is reliable, cheap to run, comfortable, handles well
>>> on corners and in crosswinds, has a good bit of carrying space, and
>>> doesn't go rusty around the sills? I don't want much eh? ;-)
>>
>>Volvo V70 R :-)
>>
>>/Morten
Thanks for the suggestion. I took a look at a pic and the specs...
looks good... nice 2.3 engine too...
K
>>On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 17:19:38 -0000, ":::Jerry::::" <m...@privacy.net>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Remember the smaller the vehicle the less weight you will be able to carry
>>>(legally).
>>
>>My van is a Vauxhall Combo which is a boxy car derived van and it can
>>carry a ton(ne?) and a half cos it is the version with improved
>>suspension, so size isn't everything. At least that is what my ex said
>>:)
>>
>>Its too small for 8*4 sheets and three seater sofas but its fine for
>>dribs and drabs house move and for cement mixers. Ford stopped making
>>the Escort van a while ago and I guess that is cos builders have
>>discovered that the boxy shape vans are much easier to get stuff in
>>and out of than are estate car derived ones
>>
>>Being car derived (the Corsa) its easy to drive and its cheap to run
>>too. I suggest you look at Combo or other manufacturers equivalent
>>Renault Trafic etc
Yes; it's certainly an option. I have owned an Escort Van and hired an
Astra van on occasion. Nice and small for parking but not as much room
as say a Hi-Ace or Vanette with about the same overall length.
Cheers,
K
> It might, indeed. Thanks. Especially one with a tow bar... But why a
> Volvo, in particular?
They tend to be pretty well engineered vehicles - although maybe not the
most exciting to drive. So older ones can still be found in serviceable
condition. Other similar large estates - like say Ford used to make - are
getting rare.
--
*Income tax service - We宋e got what it takes to take what you've got.
>>In article <41d0137d...@news.individual.net>,
>> Kat <Katc...@ydbttvou.com> wrote:
>>> >>Before you go ahead, check up on the insurance situation.
>>> >>
>>> >>It might be cheaper to get a big old Volvo estate.
>>
>>> It might, indeed. Thanks. Especially one with a tow bar... But why a
>>> Volvo, in particular?
>>
>>They tend to be pretty well engineered vehicles - although maybe not the
>>most exciting to drive. So older ones can still be found in serviceable
>>condition.
What is the usual thing that eventually consigns them to the scrap
yard?
On all the cars I've had, (British and Japanese) , it's been body rust
- especially the sills - (even though the engines still had about 200K
miles of life left in them)! How are the 10-15 year old Volvos with
regards rust problems? I once drove a 740 when they first came out in
the 80s, and was quite impressed.
K
Well on our '89 740 the thing which has nearly consinged it to scrap is the
broken ZF auto box, the Aisin Warner transmission is apparently a much
tougher box. I haven't given up yet though, at 300K or so recorded miles the
car still felt solid and tight so I'm still on the look out for a scrapper
with a good box. As for corrosion the only place I can find any is a tiny
bubbling around what appears to be an old repair.
>
> On all the cars I've had, (British and Japanese) , it's been body rust
> - especially the sills - (even though the engines still had about 200K
> miles of life left in them)! How are the 10-15 year old Volvos with
> regards rust problems? I once drove a 740 when they first came out in
> the 80s, and was quite impressed.
>
I think one of the reasons Volvos go on so long , besides good build
quality, is they were perceived as prestige whilst not being interesting to
wealthy boy racers so owners bothered to look after them.
Sam
> On all the cars I've had, (British and Japanese) , it's been body rust
> - especially the sills - (even though the engines still had about 200K
> miles of life left in them)! How are the 10-15 year old Volvos with
> regards rust problems? I once drove a 740 when they first came out in
> the 80s, and was quite impressed.
Something like a 10 year old Subaru Legacy estate is a similar size and
will go forever. Not as easy to find, spares cost a bit more but you
won't need em often! (They had corrosion licked by the time they
produced the Legacy - especially '92 onward). If you get and estate with
the built in roof rails and stick a decent set of roof bars on them it
would carry 100kg+ on the roof.
--
Cheers,
John.
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> That may be the answer. Thanks. Anyone recommend an estate car that
> accelerates fast, is reliable, cheap to run, comfortable, handles well
> on corners and in crosswinds, has a good bit of carrying space, and
> doesn't go rusty around the sills? I don't want much eh? ;-)
If you can find one, the estate version of what I have ;-)
Subaru Legacy 2.0 4 CAM Turbo. There were only a few hundred official UK
spec models ever built (they had to sell 5000 world wide, to qualify it
for entry into the rallies), but a good proportion of them are atill about.
Does all you require, alothough a little fond of the jungle juice if you
get too keen with the right foot! Unassuming shape, permenant four wheel
drive with viscous coupling diffs, and Sierra Cosworth style
performance. Basically it has a break, clutch, and a smile pedal!
(Grey imports of newer versions are more easily available including the
twin turbo version, but that will cost you more in insurance).
I was wondering why the roof rack had not been mentioned yet.
I had a tiny Rover Metro, years ago and carried all sorts on its roof
(within the limits of course)
4 by 8 sheets were a doddle.
Ladder bars are very low cost items for older cars.
Dave
No get them from people like http://www.eurocarparts.com/ or my current
favourite http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ coz they have just opened a local
branch. Any other difficult bits get them from the local scrappy. Course if
you have to go to a main street dealer they will rip you for parts - course
you will know they're not really cheap will you :-)
Sam
>As it happens, I have a canoe too... I'm thinking of buying a cheap
>tranny for the purposes I mentioned, then converting it into a camper
>van after the DIY and moving is complete. I did that once before with
>a similar van. The lack of windows made it great for sleeping
>overnight just about anywhere, rather than paying out for a hotel.
>having said that, all-round windows are such a boon when it comes to
>driving and parking.
>
I've driven quite a few vans over the years and have never missed
having any rearward visibility apart from side mirrors. If you have
decent spacial awareness then lack of windows isn't a problem.
Slightly oversized for you I know but I drive a Transit Luton quite
often and find that a doddle to reverse and generally manouvre.
--
SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject
>I'm pretty sure (as my mate has one) that the swb trannie is the same length
>as a normal car. My mate couldn't have anything bigger, otherwise there
>wouldn't be any parking spaces big enough outside his terraced house.
If there's a bulkhead fitted, the SWB Tranny is annoyingly just too
short to get the doors shut on a sheet of 8'x4'. If no bulkhead it can
stand up and poke between the seats.
Apart from that, I found the SWB shr Tranny a gem to own, being bloody
useful for most things and an excellent tug.
--
Dave
Yes; it was the drunken 90-yr old pensioner in the Range Rover coming
the other way, overtaking on a blind corner at 120 mph with his foot
on the accellerator, instead of the brake that causes the *real*
injuries, wan't it? ;-)
K
>>Kat wrote:
>>
>>> On all the cars I've had, (British and Japanese) , it's been body rust
>>> - especially the sills - (even though the engines still had about 200K
>>> miles of life left in them)! How are the 10-15 year old Volvos with
>>> regards rust problems? I once drove a 740 when they first came out in
>>> the 80s, and was quite impressed.
>>
>>Something like a 10 year old Subaru Legacy estate is a similar size and
>>will go forever. Not as easy to find, spares cost a bit more but you
>>won't need em often! (They had corrosion licked by the time they
>>produced the Legacy - especially '92 onward). If you get and estate with
>>the built in roof rails and stick a decent set of roof bars on them it
>>would carry 100kg+ on the roof.
Thanks for the tip. Was that one of Subaru's 4-wheel drive cars? If so
I'd be especially interested.
K
>>Kat wrote:
>>
>>> That may be the answer. Thanks. Anyone recommend an estate car that
>>> accelerates fast, is reliable, cheap to run, comfortable, handles well
>>> on corners and in crosswinds, has a good bit of carrying space, and
>>> doesn't go rusty around the sills? I don't want much eh? ;-)
>>
>>If you can find one, the estate version of what I have ;-)
>>
>>Subaru Legacy 2.0 4 CAM Turbo. There were only a few hundred official UK
>>spec models ever built (they had to sell 5000 world wide, to qualify it
>>for entry into the rallies), but a good proportion of them are atill about.
>>
>>Does all you require, alothough a little fond of the jungle juice if you
>>get too keen with the right foot! Unassuming shape, permenant four wheel
>>drive with viscous coupling diffs, and Sierra Cosworth style
>>performance.
Ah, so yes, it *was* a 4-wheel drive car! I must investigate further.
It sounds interesting.
>>Basically it has a break, clutch, and a smile pedal!
>>
>>(Grey imports of newer versions are more easily available including the
>>twin turbo version, but that will cost you more in insurance).
Thanks again for the suggestion.
K
They are not bad at all, but the trailers do NOT come cheap, and
reversing a trailer is a bit of an art - and one I don't have.
But a good estate car like a merc or volvo (shudder!) with a tow bar,
and a trailer is a darned useful combo.
However if you are doing long term hose renovation and want a lockable
storage, hire a container: Its MUCH easier than using a trailer.
Friend I knew once bougfht a clapped out van to do his removals for less
than the cost of hiring one, and sold it for marginally more than he
bought it for afterwards. That was some time ago. Going rate for a
runner in basically working oder with 6-9months MOT should be under 500
squids.
> Thanks again
>
> K
>
>
>
Tough and reliable, and have large load spaces, and the older ones have
reaer wheel drve which is quite good for trailer work.
Hate the bloody things meself, because nearly all the worst drivers buy
volvos, and you get tainted, but they are actually not bad cars really.
> K
>
Merc is good for general build quality,
BMW the best drive.
Jaguar X-type the best comfort level.
Volvo the biggest load space.
But all are reasonably good really.
Subaru can be stunningly good on corners..:-)
> K
>
> Thanks for the tip. Was that one of Subaru's 4-wheel drive cars? If so
> I'd be especially interested.
Yup, IIRC all/most models are 4WD. Some of the autos have the option of
switching to FWD only. Some of the estates have a low range transfer box
option (doubling the gear count).
My first one (2L saloon) I sold to my FIL 5 years back, that is still
going strong. Replaced with the turbo nutter model I descibed elsewhere
in the thread (ideal Q car - does not look particularly souped up or
sporty until you engage the afterburner). Recently bought SWMBO a 2.2L
estate version. That has the built in roof rails and will carry a
serious load on the roof, plus having volvo style real estate in the
back with the seats folded down.
Most cars these days will not rot much before the engines are knackered.
15 years or 150k miles is what most '2 liter' cars of decent manufactire
(no Fiat) should do, with the clas cars like beemers, mercs, veedubs,
volvos and even jags *(these days) being capable of.
I happen to have a landrover defender, and that - 110 size and tdi or if
possible td5, is a good workhorse IF you can accept the high fuel
consumption and the offroad capability is worth trading it for.
Its a second best at everything for us - except when the weather turns
sour, and then there is nothing I would rather be in, frankly. I've
towed with it,. gone across fields looking for the dog in it, filled it
with a ton of bricks, taken it to denmark and germany and back, driven
through 2 foot of floodwater, through 8" of snow, cleared houses with it.
Lots of crappy qulaity problems, but the big bits - Engine, tramsission
and brakes and tyres - have never let me down, and its just coming to
the end of its first set of tyres after 450000 miles from new.
Low service costs too.
Only expense is the 26mpg dropping to about 20mpg at 85mph :-)
And the weird handling. Each end of teh vehicle has a mind of its own,
and making sure they agree is a little tricky if youi are 'pressing on'
hard..
>
> K
> Kat wrote:
>
>> That may be the answer. Thanks. Anyone recommend an estate car that
>> accelerates fast, is reliable, cheap to run, comfortable, handles well
>> on corners and in crosswinds, has a good bit of carrying space, and
>> doesn't go rusty around the sills? I don't want much eh? ;-)
>
>
> If you can find one, the estate version of what I have ;-)
>
> Subaru Legacy 2.0 4 CAM Turbo. There were only a few hundred official UK
> spec models ever built (they had to sell 5000 world wide, to qualify it
> for entry into the rallies), but a good proportion of them are atill about.
>
> Does all you require, alothough a little fond of the jungle juice if you
> get too keen with the right foot! Unassuming shape, permenant four wheel
> drive with viscous coupling diffs, and Sierra Cosworth style
> performance. Basically it has a break, clutch, and a smile pedal!
>
> (Grey imports of newer versions are more easily available including the
> twin turbo version, but that will cost you more in insurance).
>
I can second this. Bro in law has one and its a hell of a car. Can be
found awful cheep.
Spares might be a problem though, if only a few hundred entered the
UK, yes?
K
>>Kat wrote:
Yes, that may be what I end up doing. My car just failed the MOT and
seems prohibitively costly to do the work (welding).
But I shuddr at the thought of using a van for the regular 60-mile
weekend trips I have to do, and nipping to town just for grocieries.
So I'm allso thinking of an estate or possiblt a longish hatch-back. I
had a hatchback once, and I couild get very big items in it by driving
with the hatch open and the cargo sticking out of the back (well tied
down of course). For the long, fast trips, the hatchbacks tend to burn
less fuel due to the better aerodynamics, methinks. But they don't
have that large roof area for a large roof-rack suitable for
plasterboard sheets etc.
K
>>Merc is good for general build quality,
>>
>>BMW the best drive.
Best drive in what way? Pray expand...
>>Jaguar X-type the best comfort level.
>>
>>Volvo the biggest load space.
>>
>>But all are reasonably good really.
>>
>>Subaru can be stunningly good on corners..:-)
I'm attracted to the Subaru - partly because I've never had one, and
they aren't common, but chiefly because of the reported performance
and handling and 4WD. Concerened about the spares situation though...
Probably hard to find them in scrap yards, yes?
K
>>It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
>>drugs began to take hold. I remember "Air Rider" <so...@sorry.com>
>>saying something like:
>>
>>>I'm pretty sure (as my mate has one) that the swb trannie is the same length
>>>as a normal car. My mate couldn't have anything bigger, otherwise there
>>>wouldn't be any parking spaces big enough outside his terraced house.
>>
>>If there's a bulkhead fitted, the SWB Tranny is annoyingly just too
>>short to get the doors shut on a sheet of 8'x4'. If no bulkhead it can
>>stand up and poke between the seats.
Alternatively, you can prolly drive with the back doors open, suitably
adorned wioth red rags, yes?
>>
>>Apart from that, I found the SWB shr Tranny a gem to own, being bloody
>>useful for most things
If 'most thinks' includes nipping down to my crowded narrow shopping
street for a packet of tea bags, I'd have to beg to differ.. ;-)
K
> Spares might be a problem though, if only a few hundred entered the
> UK, yes?
Not really. The "few hundred" applied only to the 4 cam turbo model. The
conventional fuel injected ones were always available in quantity and
still are. Most of the parts are common to both. Some of the turbo
specific parts are common to the Imprezza as well where most models sold
are turbos. Generally getting parts is no problem.
The conventional fuel injected car is more than capable and very nice to
drive, and would probably suit your needs very well. It depends a bit on
what you mean by "accelerates well". The 2L 120ish bhp conventional car
is not slow at all. However, the ability of the turbo to go from 30 to
60 in the space of 100 yards is quite astonishing though.
(They introduced the Turbo into the UK in late 91 IIRC, when Subaru
decided they wanted to make a serious entry into the WRC circuit (having
previously been successful in their class, but never having had a
vehicle that could compete at the top level). A certain Mr. McCray then
set about changing the brand visibility in the UK just a tad! They
stopped importing the turbo legacy model in about 94 when the imprezza
because available and took over the rallying, but they still produce
them for the Japanese market, including some very exotic twin turbo
versions that they have developed with the their partnership with Porsche).
If you go for one of they grey imports then you may have more difficulty
with getting parts through the official channels (not because they are
different, but because they sometimes try to restrict support for grey
vehicles), but again there is a whole grey parts industry in place to
support them.
> On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 02:49:15 +0000, The Natural Philosopher <a@b.c>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>>>Merc is good for general build quality,
>>>
>>>BMW the best drive.
>
>
> Best drive in what way? Pray expand...
>
Handling and feedback frm teh wheels. The merc is tanklike and the jag
is a bit spongy.
Volvos are pretty tanklike too.
>
>>>Jaguar X-type the best comfort level.
>>>
>>>Volvo the biggest load space.
>>>
>>>But all are reasonably good really.
>>>
>>>Subaru can be stunningly good on corners..:-)
>
>
> I'm attracted to the Subaru - partly because I've never had one, and
> they aren't common, but chiefly because of the reported performance
> and handling and 4WD. Concerened about the spares situation though...
> Probably hard to find them in scrap yards, yes?
Dunno. He has friends in Prodrive who rally prepare em ;-)
>
> K
Stay well away from Renaults, bloody expensive to keep on the road!!
I will, thanks. Never owned a French vehicle yet... I've never found
one that I liked. I've only owned Britsh, Japanes, and American
vehicles so far...
K
>>Kat wrote:
>>
>>> On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 02:49:15 +0000, The Natural Philosopher <a@b.c>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Merc is good for general build quality,
>>>>>
>>>>>BMW the best drive.
>>>
>>>
>>> Best drive in what way? Pray expand...
>>>
>>
>>Handling and feedback frm teh wheels.
Interesting - cos I've never driven a beemer in my life.
>>The merc is tanklike and the jag
>>is a bit spongy.
>>
>>Volvos are pretty tanklike too.
That was my exact description, upon driving the only Volvo I ever
drove: a brand new 740 or 760 estate, I think, back in 1985... Like
driving a tank.... a very comfy tank, though... ;-)
K
I've got a Fiat Ducato, which you'd probably find too big. The sheets just
fit. I'm not sure you'll find a smaller van that will take them. However,
when shifting 8x4 sheets, I almost always put them on the roof with roof
bars, or occassionally put them in the trailer. These methods would work on
almost any van.
BTW, I love driving the van. Much more satisfying than the car. You get
better visibility over hedges and oncoming cars turning right at the lights
and it has no larger footprint than a Lexus.
Christian.
Strange. I prefer the Ducato/Boxer/Relay. Both the Trannie and Ducato are
nice to drive, but the Ducato has the dash mounted gear stick and right hand
mounted handbrake. The former is great for being lazy, the gear knob being
no more than 10cm from the steering wheel. The latter is great when carrying
passengers and they don't mangle themselves into the centrally mounted
controls.
Christian.
Peugeots are fine. But then, they're mostly British, rather than French...
Christian.
Wow, half a million miles on one set of tyres!
Christian.
The X-Type is 4WD as standard on the 2.5 and 3.0.
Christian.
as are some of the Volvos.... an old 850 T5 R (as favoured by plod) also
goes like stink (250bhp, 4WD) - easy to recognise by the implausibly low
profile tyres!
>>Christian McArdle wrote:
>>
>>>>I'm attracted to the Subaru - partly because I've never had one, and
>>>>they aren't common, but chiefly because of the reported performance
>>>>and handling and 4WD.
>>>
>>>
>>> The X-Type is 4WD as standard on the 2.5 and 3.0.
>>
>>as are some of the Volvos.... an old 850 T5 R (as favoured by plod) also
>>goes like stink (250bhp, 4WD) - easy to recognise by the implausibly low
>>profile tyres!
Do any of the aforementioned vee-hicles have traction control?
K
A bit like my old Vauxhaull Astra then, described as British, but
designed and built in Germany. Go figger... . ;-)
K
If you need traction control on a 4WD, then you need to lose your baseball
cap, and learn to control your feet!
Christian.
With 340hp and 460Nm you need traction control, regardless of how
lightfooted you are, and add wet roads and you would never leave the
startline even on 245/19/35 profiles and permanent 4wd drive...
/Morten
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I frequently carry 20 or more plasboard on the full frame roof rack of
the tranny, which vertually turns it into a double decker. Aged 47,
shinning up to the roof one foot on the back wheel, a good grip on the
roof rack and I'm up there walking on the bridge round the back of the
merchant's pulling sheet by sheet off the forklift. That's the beauty of
a transit, it's at home with all things building trade.
My trade is gas fitter, but I renovate houses and coordinate all
trades, so I get my hands dirty in all aspects of building, and I love
it, get payed for playing at being a builder.
Just go and get a Transit with a big f**k off roof rack, you'll always
get back what it cost. Last one I sold only stayed on the end of the
road for an hour before it sold and then I could have sold it twice
more the same evening. I got all my money back.
--
Paul Barker
All of the above in one form or another - at least as an option I would
guess... (in the case of the Subarus it is by virtue of viscous
couplings in each of the diffs)
>>If you need traction control on a 4WD, then you need to lose your baseball
>>cap, and learn to control your feet!
Depends a bit on the surface I suppose, but you are right is is
generally far less of an issue - certainly upto 250bhp anyway.... you do
have to try very hard to spin a wheel on my car, you can only just about
get the back to slide a little if you turn out of a side road on a wet
surface very aggressively (or on ice obviously), having said that the
centre viscous coupling on mine is getting rather tired.
> With 340hp and 460Nm you need traction control, regardless of how
None of the above mentioned vehicles were quite in that league (at least
in the commonly available guises)
> lightfooted you are, and add wet roads and you would never leave the
> startline even on 245/19/35 profiles and permanent 4wd drive...
WRC cars seem to manage just fine without it...
>Strange. I prefer the Ducato/Boxer/Relay. Both the Trannie and Ducato are
>nice to drive, but the Ducato has the dash mounted gear stick and right hand
>mounted handbrake. The former is great for being lazy, the gear knob being
>no more than 10cm from the steering wheel. The latter is great when carrying
>passengers and they don't mangle themselves into the centrally mounted
>controls.
>
I used to have a 2000 W SWB Boxer 1.9D and I thought it was in
general, crap. It spent more time in the garage under warranty than it
did on my drive and everything is backwards, and cheap plasticy type
crappy flimsy. I sold it at 43,000 miles. Don't know what the new ones
are like but I had an 02 reg Partner 2.0 HDi after that and that
started to fall to pieces pretty quickly. To be fair I had it for 15
months ish and did 52,000 miles in it, after buying it with 9,000 on
the clock. I don't think it should have had to have two new
alternators, new crankshaft pulleys, bearings etc. eveery 20,000 miles
as it seemed to, but it does though.
In summary, Peugot are crap, I wouldn't be overly keen on getting
another.
--
SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject
A very different experience to mine, then! My first was a 1995/M (Boxer). It
did just short of 200,000 miles before some joyriders rammed it at 30mph in
reverse. I sold it to a friend of a friend (a mobile mechanic who had just
had his van and tools nicked) who has pulled out the damage and it is still
on the road, presumably at well over 200,000 miles now. Very few signs of
rust, given the age and mileage, too. My second is a 2000/X (Ducato) on
around 50,000.
I haven't had any serious mechanical trouble from either. The older one did
require a new heater matrix, but apart from that, it is just brake pads,
tyres and batteries I've changed on either of them.
Of course, they aren't really Peugeots, they're Fiats with a Peugeot
drivetrain. The engine chosen (the 1.9 XUD) is the one that seems to be in
about 50% of diesel engine cars of the period.
Christian.
"Lurch" <theorigi...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:7tj6t0l1d5t0dt4ko...@4ax.com...
>Of course, they aren't really Peugeots, they're Fiats with a Peugeot
>drivetrain. The engine chosen (the 1.9 XUD) is the one that seems to be in
>about 50% of diesel engine cars of the period.
>
I think that's the problem, the XUD was\is a good engine and they seem
to be riding on the back of its success currently. It's just a shame
that anything they attach to the engine falls off.
Volvo V70 R with a tuned chip from http://www.volvotuning.co.uk will give
just that AND a hell of a ride to :-)
> > lightfooted you are, and add wet roads and you would never leave the
> > startline even on 245/19/35 profiles and permanent 4wd drive...
>
> WRC cars seem to manage just fine without it...
Because they ant driving on flat surfaces road most of of the time, if they
were doing WRC on flat tarmac they would start using low profiles a well,
maybe not 35 profiles but much lower that they use for WRC...
/Morten
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Out of interest, which parts did you find unreliable? I know the fancy (but
complicated) gearshift system gets a bad press, but I've found my two really
good. Maybe a tiny bit notchy, but so much more convenient than finding a
huge industrial wiggle stick on your left, pressed into your passenger's
thighs.
Christian.
Some would pay good money for that.
--
*I'm not your type. I'm not inflatable.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Estate car will do if youre willing to put them on the roof. If you
carry PB you'll need to sandwich it with 18mm chip underneath and 12mm
chip on top. Roofracks are nice, but not necessary for light loads, as
long as you understand how to secure it properly. Dont do that if you
dont though.
You'd be surprised what you can carry on a bicycle... but no, not an
8x4 :)
NT
>Out of interest, which parts did you find unreliable? I know the fancy (but
>complicated) gearshift system gets a bad press,
Complicated? 5 gears + reverse.....
>but I've found my two really
>good. Maybe a tiny bit notchy, but so much more convenient than finding a
>huge industrial wiggle stick on your left, pressed into your passenger's
>thighs.
>
Well, I think was about the only thing that didn't break on the Boxer.
What In didn't like about the Boxer was the cheapness of it all.
Everything was just, well, crap. Nice driving position though, and the
low rear access was useful, as was the 'squareness' of the sides as I
always rack my vans out which is PITA with curved sides.
While Budgens had it, on quite a few occasions during the 2 years I
had it it had;
* 3 new driveshafts.
* 1 new ECU.
* 1 new other ECU type thing, just as expensive as the main one.
* Various other 'minor parts' replaced.
* The back doors would never shut without a good slam, the same with
the side door.
* The door holder openers never held the front doors open.
* There was a fairly major wiring fault with the vehicle that fried
the 2 ECU's and meant the van was always a bad starter and that the
cooling system never worked properly so the van was prone to
overheating. This was missed at every service and the cause was fairly
obvious apparently once you dug around in the engine bay, which the
'mechanics' had done on quite a few occasions. It was an auto
electrician, appointed by me at a later date, that eventually fixed it
shortly before I sold it, but my Dad had it by this time so I never
got to drive it while it worked properly.
Moving on to the Partner;
* 1 new alternator, current one on its way out. This is a fairly
common fault as the two 206s owned by my cousins have had altrernators
fail within 20k.
* Crankshaft pulley bearings shattering and destroying half the bottom
of the engine. A common fault apparantly, one which Peugeot have done
nothing about and still fit the same crappy parts as a replacement.
* Gear linkage\box prone to looseneing failing. Always needed
adjusting\checking as there was always loads of play when in gear,
(wore than my old 200k Maestro in fact).
Again, garages saw it more than me.
So, in general, I can't say I'm impressed with Peugeots of late.
Depends on the type of surfaces/terrain you're driving on, doesn't it?
If you have to negotiate slippery steep inclines, traction control
would be an advantage, wouldn't it?
PG
>>>>Do any of the aforementioned vee-hicles have traction control?
>>>
>>>If you need traction control on a 4WD, then you need to lose your baseball
>>>cap, and learn to control your feet!
>
>
>
> Depends on the type of surfaces/terrain you're driving on, doesn't it?
> If you have to negotiate slippery steep inclines, traction control
> would be an advantage, wouldn't it?
If used well, it can help on descents down steep (and I mean really
steep) hills, but can be a disadvantage on ascents (where keeping the
wheels turning at all times can be critical).
Top end Range Rovers have an active hill decent system - you push a
button and then steer the wheel. The computer does everything else! (The
BMW X5 also has it - pinched during their brief ownership of Rover).
To go up again, you are better off with a low transfer box, plenty of
torque low down in the rev range, diff locks all round, and off road tyres.
I mean that the heath robinson contraption to take the movement from the
dash mounted gear stick to the gear box itself was complicated, which gave
it a somewhat temperamental reputation. One that I haven't run into
personally, however.
> * 3 new driveshafts.
Ouch! Was there common cause for this? Perhaps an overheated bearing that
was taking out the rubber boots or something?
> * The door holder openers never held the front doors open.
Mine stay nicely open!
> * 1 new ECU.
> * 1 new other ECU type thing, just as expensive as the main one.
> * There was a fairly major wiring fault with the vehicle (...)
Ah, this sounds like your major trouble, then. What was the wiring fault?
Something wrong with the voltage regulator or something?
> * The back doors would never shut without a good slam, the same with
> the side door.
Yes, my new one likes a good slam, but the doors have clearly been reversed
into at some point. The old one (before shunt) was not like this.
It certainly doesn't sound like you had a good time! Sounds like you got the
Friday afternoon model.
Christian.
It first appeared on the Freelander. Uses the ABS system to operate
individual brakes to keep the vehicle at a constant low speed while on the
over-run.
--
*When it rains, why don't sheep shrink? *
>I mean that the heath robinson contraption to take the movement from the
>dash mounted gear stick to the gear box itself was complicated, which gave
>it a somewhat temperamental reputation. One that I haven't run into
>personally, however.
>
Ah, I getchya now!
>> * 3 new driveshafts.
>
>Ouch! Was there common cause for this? Perhaps an overheated bearing that
>was taking out the rubber boots or something?
>
Apparantly it was a reasonably commonish fault, but as per all the
others Peugeot were never interested in doing anything about it!
>> * 1 new ECU.
>> * 1 new other ECU type thing, just as expensive as the main one.
>> * There was a fairly major wiring fault with the vehicle (...)
>
>Ah, this sounds like your major trouble, then. What was the wiring fault?
>Something wrong with the voltage regulator or something?
>
I think there were several faults on the loom. A couple of them I
found while I was doing other things under the bonnet, another couple
of dodgy contacts somewhere on the cooling system that someone found,
(not a dealerships mechanic), when he serviced it and the main one was
the dodgy earth lead contact on the engine.
Although I never drove the van after the earth lead was fixed my Dad
says it was like a completely different van, it started first time
every time rather than having to give it a good few turns and the
cooling system worked properly. I think it was this fault that had
caused all the other copmponents to fail prematurely.
>It certainly doesn't sound like you had a good time! Sounds like you got the
>Friday afternoon model.
>
I've heard about those! A lot of the things were cosmetic and general
'interior' issues but after all that and then having the the Partners
mechanics be as unreliable I've decided to steer clear of the Peugeots
for now, pity because I always used to like them as they were always a
solid reliable vehicle.