Coving
Peter
is the best way to join the 2m lengths? Should I use scrim tape over
the joins or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
Peter
Ric
"Peter" <me@here&now.com> wrote in message
news:6po4l09bhd1ns98pt...@4ax.com...
>I am fitting Blue Hawk plasterbaord coving to many of my rooms. What
> is the best way to join the 2m lengths? Should I use scrim tape over
> the joins or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
Not really much help but I'm in the process of putting some coving up
myself - I am expecting to just fill the joins with pollyfilla and then sand
over with fine sandpaper before painting. I will watch in earnest for other
people's opinions!
Ziggur
says...
--
Ziggur
"S'ils te mordent, mords-les"
Ric
"Ziggur" <zig...@morlaix.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1bbcb107b...@News.Individual.NET...
> In article <6po4l09bhd1ns98pt...@4ax.com>, me@here&now.com
> says...
>> I am fitting Blue Hawk plasterbaord coving to many of my rooms. What
>> is the best way to join the 2m lengths? Should I use scrim tape over
>> the joins or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
>>
>> Peter
>>
> The cove adhesive will fill the joints and it sands down well.
I, I should have mentioned that - whilst sticking it up you can wipe any
excess adhesive away with your finger and stick it in the gaps.
Autolycus
> is the best way to join the 2m lengths? Should I use scrim tape over
> the joins or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
Why use such daft little lengths? I've always used Gyproc, and istr it
came in lengths up to 4.2m.
Although the gaps fill easily enough with spare adhesive, if the ceiling
or wall is at all wavy, you'll tend to get a discontinuity at the join,
which a single length will smooth out.
Two other tips: make a dirty great mitre guide, and be meticulous about
marking a line on the wall as per the makers' recommendations. A few
panel pins along the line give you something to rest the coving on while
the adhesive grabs, and can be pulled out afterwards.
Damn: that's three tips. Let's make it four - don't do what the
previous owner of my house did - he applied the adhesive to fill in the
triangular gap, with none on the two flat lands of the coving. He also
never got the hang of mitring, so all the corners, external and
internal, had huge splodges of plaster to extend (roughly) the profile
of the coving.
--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. sep...@mainbeam.co.uk)***
Car Transport by Tiltbed Trailer - based near Derby
chris French
<me@here&now.com> writes
>I am fitting Blue Hawk plasterbaord coving to many of my rooms. What
>is the best way to join the 2m lengths?
Is this just plain coving? anmy reason for using such short lengths?
If you go to BM (or a B&Q warehouse) you can longer lengths of coving 3,
3.6 and 4.2 M, though 4.2 doesn't always seem to be held in stock
Though two people are useful for longer lengths.
> Should I use scrim tape over
>the joins
No. you never get a nice join then
> or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
Butt the lengths carefully together with adhesive between them. I
support each end with nails to keep them aligned.
when dry, fill and sand carefully, and the joint will be invisible
(though in future it may crack - but not hard to fill and paint over.)
--
Chris French, Leeds
Paul Mc Cann
says...
>
> "Peter" <me@here&now.com> wrote in message
> news:6po4l09bhd1ns98pt...@4ax.com...
> > I am fitting Blue Hawk plasterbaord coving to many of my rooms. What
> > is the best way to join the 2m lengths? Should I use scrim tape over
> > the joins or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
>
> Why use such daft little lengths? I've always used Gyproc, and istr it
> came in lengths up to 4.2m.
>
> Although the gaps fill easily enough with spare adhesive, if the ceiling
> or wall is at all wavy, you'll tend to get a discontinuity at the join,
> which a single length will smooth out.
>
> Two other tips: make a dirty great mitre guide, and be meticulous about
> marking a line on the wall as per the makers' recommendations. A few
> panel pins along the line give you something to rest the coving on while
> the adhesive grabs, and can be pulled out afterwards.
>
> Damn: that's three tips. Let's make it four - don't do what the
> previous owner of my house did - he applied the adhesive to fill in the
> triangular gap, with none on the two flat lands of the coving. He also
> never got the hang of mitring, so all the corners, external and
> internal, had huge splodges of plaster to extend (roughly) the profile
> of the coving.
>
>
>
selected 2m lengths of paper covered polystyrene (sp?) which at least is
light and easy to cut.
Having spent the last hour cutting the mitres I'm hoping there will be a
little compression in the material to allow joints to be tightened.
I like the tip about panel pins to hold it up till the adhesive sets
--
Paul Mc Cann
Peter
wrote:
>In article <ciudcc$2i3$1...@news.freedom2surf.net>, teac...@ntlworld.com
>says...
>>
>> "Peter" <me@here&now.com> wrote in message
>> news:6po4l09bhd1ns98pt...@4ax.com...
>> > I am fitting Blue Hawk plasterbaord coving to many of my rooms. What
>> > is the best way to join the 2m lengths? Should I use scrim tape over
>> > the joins or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
>>
>> Why use such daft little lengths? I've always used Gyproc, and istr it
>> came in lengths up to 4.2m.
I haven't actually collected the coving from Homebase yet, so will
investigate whether longer lengths are available.
>>
>> Although the gaps fill easily enough with spare adhesive, if the ceiling
>> or wall is at all wavy, you'll tend to get a discontinuity at the join,
>> which a single length will smooth out.
>>
>> Two other tips: make a dirty great mitre guide, and be meticulous about
>> marking a line on the wall as per the makers' recommendations. A few
>> panel pins along the line give you something to rest the coving on while
>> the adhesive grabs, and can be pulled out afterwards.
>>
>> Damn: that's three tips. Let's make it four - don't do what the
>> previous owner of my house did - he applied the adhesive to fill in the
>> triangular gap, with none on the two flat lands of the coving. He also
>> never got the hang of mitring, so all the corners, external and
>> internal, had huge splodges of plaster to extend (roughly) the profile
>> of the coving.
>>
>>
>>
>Must be the time of year as I am about to put up some coving also. SWMBO
>selected 2m lengths of paper covered polystyrene (sp?) which at least is
>light and easy to cut.
>
>Having spent the last hour cutting the mitres I'm hoping there will be a
>little compression in the material to allow joints to be tightened.
>
>I like the tip about panel pins to hold it up till the adhesive sets
Thanks to all for the help/tips.
Peter
Brian Sharrock
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 23:15:12 +0100, Paul Mc Cann <tp...@eircom.net>
> wrote:
>
> >In article <ciudcc$2i3$1...@news.freedom2surf.net>, teac...@ntlworld.com
> >says...
> >>
> >> "Peter" <me@here&now.com> wrote in message
> >> news:6po4l09bhd1ns98pt...@4ax.com...
> >> > I am fitting Blue Hawk plasterbaord coving to many of my rooms. What
> >> > is the best way to join the 2m lengths? Should I use scrim tape over
> >> > the joins or is it enough just to fill with Pollyfiller?
> >>
I applied coving (can one say 'coved'?) to my bathroom ..
the results weren't bad ... before doing the kitchen I
bought the "Magic Mitre" as demonstrated on QVC ..
I wouldn't be without it ... not many corners are exactly
ninety-degrees but the 'Magic Mitre' makes all mitres
a piece of ...
For joining lengths of coving .. whether it's two or more
metres long .. Magic Mitre recommends scarfing the joints
rather than butt joints .. the scarfed joints are less visible
and easier to smooth down with polyfilla.
> >>
> >> Two other tips: make a dirty great mitre guide,
or buy the 'Magic Mitre" :) ..you know it makes sense.
> >> and be meticulous about
> >> marking a line on the wall as per the makers' recommendations.
I made a block of mdf cut to the _exact_ width of "the makers'
recommendation" -(I had access to a table-saw) and used that
to _meticulously_ mark a line on the wall - I absolutely concur
with Peter's comment here - this point can't be emphasised
enough - how you do it is up to you.
> >>A few
> >> panel pins along the line give you something to rest the coving on
while
> >> the adhesive grabs, and can be pulled out afterwards.
> >>
Concur- put the pins/masonary nails along the line before yoo
offer up the very heavy cove-cum-gunge length to the wall/ceiling.
--
Brian
Christian McArdle
> is the best way to join the 2m lengths?
Rather than a butt join, mitre both pieces at 45 degrees. The join is less
visible then, easier to fill and much less sensitive to a mm or two
tolerance in cutting.
Christian.
Christian McArdle
> visible then, easier to fill and much less sensitive to a mm or two
> tolerance in cutting.
Also, when cutting internal corners, you may get better results by cutting
one piece square and scribe cutting the other piece to the coving profile.
This again leads to neater filling, a less visible join and greater
tolerance to dimensional errors.
External corners should be mitred.
Christian.
Brett Jackson
"chris French" <newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote in message
news:wDds2cBn...@familyfrench.co.uk...
I've done this and it works well. I found that a slightly better finished
is achieved by cutting a V in to the joint with a stanley knife before
filling as ragged edges of paper can expand slightly or just get in the way.