Two coats of gloss - am I wasting my time?
Rednadnerb
over the areas that are heavily exposed to rain and sun with a second
coat of gloss.
But i've never actually read anywhere that this will prolong the life
of the paintwork. Am I wasting my time?
Stuart Noble
The bond between the wood and the first coat of whatever is on there has
to be good. The rest is really just decoration
Roger
"Rednadnerb" <bhar...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:f54aa8c3-f13e-4ecc...@k41g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
Why do something if you do not know why you are doing it?
Rednadnerb
> "Rednadnerb" <bhartn...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
It seemed like a good idea at the time.
The Medway Handyman
Why be a twat if you do not know why you are doing it?
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Cash
Rednadnerb,
Paint specification from an AKZO rep on external paintwork (preparation and
priming assumed to be done) for longevity:
2 undercoat and 1 gloss coats
OR
1 undercoat and 2 gloss coats
But always remember that it's the preparation that gives the longevity on
any paintwork - if that is poorly done, then the finished coats will simply
not last.
Cash
pete
Well, it gives your paintwork an extra thickness, so that would help
it survive _external_ factors. Just so long as the underlying adhesion
between the wood and the paint is sound, so it doesn't flake off then
it sounds like a reasonable idea.
After all, we know from expereince that the perparation takes longer
than the painting, so if an extra coat extends the lifetime of the work
by prportionally longer than a strip / prepare / repaint would, then
it's a worthwhile investment in paint and time.
Brian Reay
news:f54aa8c3-f13e-4ecc...@k41g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
If you are painting new wood or over very weathered old paint, consider
"Ranch Paint", which is microporous.
I used it on well weathered paint several times (having removed the flaky
bits and rubbed it down). Worked a treat and didn't "peel". From past
experience, ordinary undercoat and gloss would have.
Ranch paint isn't cheap but you don't need an undercoat and the finish is
good- albeit satin rather than gloss.
Probably not good over good old paint as you'd have to do some serious
sanding.
Brian
The Natural Philosopher
I strongly disagree.
After a lot of experience in painting wood, I came to the conclusion
that what painting does, is pretty specialised, and goes like this.
1/. Knotting. This stabilises the wood and prevents resin creeping under
the paint.
2/. Filling removes major imperfections.
3/. Priming mainly has to stick to the wood, and provide a key for other
coats.
4/. Filler primer gets rid of grain and other minor imperfections
5/. undercoat is there to provide the base colour and reflective coating.
6/. Top coat is there to fine tune the colour, and to provide a tough
surface to protect what is below. On cars, you often see that as a clear
lacquer, with the normal paint actually being the 'undercoat'.
Now in an outdoor situation, if the top coat gets compromised the
underlying coats will fail. Typically UV attack splits the top coat, and
water gets into the wood dwells it and splits the paint off.
IF - and its not certain - a second coat of top will retard UV attack,
or maybe a coat of UV resistant lacquer will stop it getting to the
gloss, its well worth putting ion.
1501
before the original starts to crack thus maintaining the protection.
Stuart Noble
If you go to the trouble of sanding back to bare wood, wood hardener is
the thing to use. After that, any paint goes on like a dream and tends
to stay there
T i m
<t...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>Now in an outdoor situation ...
.. use something other than wood. ;-)
Don't get me wrong, wood is fine outdoors for trees and bonfires but I
would love to get rid of it's use here outdoors asap.
30+ years ago I moved here and put up a new paneled fence. The second
set of panels are showing their age whilst the concrete posts look as
good as the day I planted them. Rather than replacing the 6" square
gate posts for the third time I have a pair of steel ones in the
garden ready to go in. The uPVC windows haven't had a lick of paint
(or much attention of any kind for that mater) in the 15 or so years
they have been in. I just wish I'd made the picket fence out of solid
plastic board or steel rather than wood when I replaced that a few
years back.
I wish I'd had plastic soffits when we had the extension and windows
done back then. One less thing to have to waste time, effort and money
on (knowing it will all have to be done again a few years later).
Wood does have it's purpose though ... it makes nice furniture. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Rick Hughes
"Rednadnerb" <bhar...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:f54aa8c3-f13e-4ecc...@k41g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
better to do one of primer, 2 undercoats (the build) and one top
rosea...@gmail.com
NY
news:811d7d1d-432a-491c...@googlegroups.com...
previous paint had weathered and peeled in places. No matter how much I
sanded the paint smooth, the boundary between the different layers of paint
where the top coat either has or has not peeled off, showed as a white
hairline in the newly-applied paint, especially since the paint was dark. It
was necessary to give that new paint a light sanding and then apply a second
coat over the top on the affected panels of the door.
I could have stripped off all the paint back to the bare wood, primed and
undercoated it and then put on a top coat, but that is a major job given
that the door has a lot of fiddly moulding which would have been a pig of a
job to get all the paint off the crevices.
Dave Plowman (News)
--
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Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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Brian Gaff
Brian
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