Shave/plane glass?
rpgs rock dvds
long dull paragraph to explain everything, so I'll skip that.) It's
thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of
the sides. Is this possible? Thanks a lot for any ideas.
Frank Erskine
If it's to go in a wooden frame, could you shave a bit of the frame
away?
--
Frank Erskine
Tim Lamb
<74edf79c-3a8e-4111...@a16g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
rpgs rock dvds <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> writes
I have used an oil stone to take off sharp edges but 1mm sounds a tall
order. One of those diamond impregnated tool sharpeners perhaps?
I doubt this is an obvious angle grinder job:-)
regards
--
Tim Lamb
NT
Only way to do that is to grind it down.
NT
The Natural Philosopher
essentially no.
Especiially if toughened.
Andy Dingley
Take it back to the supplier (or a good glazier, like Roman Glass in
Bristol) and have them grind it down on their belt grinder. This is
easy (for people who have glass-working belt grinders)
You can also do it yourself with a coarse carborundum stone, ideally
working under water. I detest this job, particularly on anything big.
1mm is big for grinding by hand.
Otherwise stretching the frame is probably easier.
Andy Dingley
wrote:
> rpgs rock dvds wrote:
> > thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off
> essentially no.
>
> Especiially if toughened.
Have a grown-up explain the differences between "laminated" and
"toughened" to you.
rpgs rock dvds
Thanks a lot for all replies.
I'm going to contact the supplier first thing in the morning, and ask
if I can take the 3 glass sheets back in for grinding.
Just for a bit of extra info/interest - it's 10.8mm acoustic stadip
silence glass. This is laminate glass, but I think the "filling" has
special acoustic properties.
(BTW, it's not possible to alter the frame in any way.)
Steve Firth
> It's
> thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of
> the sides. Is this possible? Thanks a lot for any ideas.
Pilkington can do it. I doubt that you could at home. If you could,
you'd be the sort of person who makes his own telescope lenses and
mirrors and you'd know what to do. As others have said, if it's
toughened glass, which is probably is, then all bets are off.
The Natural Philosopher
Steve Firth
> I'm going to contact the supplier first thing in the morning, and ask
> if I can take the 3 glass sheets back in for grinding.
Please get back with the price. A like a good laugh.
Steve Firth
> Have a grown-up explain the differences between "laminated" and
> "toughened" to you.
Perhaps you could do so? I have several pieces of laminated glass which
are toughened. i.e. the laminate is a sheet of toughened glass, the
polymer then a sheet of non-toughened glass.
It's all very well to get snotty about these things, but you had better
be sure of the grounds on which you build your heap of snot.
Falco
> rpgs rock dvds <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> It's
>> thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of
>> the sides. Is this possible? Thanks a lot for any ideas.
>
> Pilkington can do it. I doubt that you could at home.
Yes it can be done at home and without the help of Pilks.
>If you could,
> you'd be the sort of person who makes his own telescope lenses and
> mirrors and you'd know what to do.
A totally inane statement from someone who has no knowledge of the subject.
>As others have said, if it's
> toughened glass, which is probably is, then all bets are off.
You are also unable to accurately read a post, the glass was stated as
*LAMINATED* , which is an entirely different method of manufacture [1] - and
as a result, "all bets" are *ON* - simply grind it using a diamond or
carborundum stone (powered or manual). Just ensure that the glass is lying
on a flat surface and take care and time in doing it.
[1] Very simply put (and you can google it to get detailed information):
TOUGHENED glass is heat-treated to set up internal stresses - and
*cannot* be worked after.
LAMINATED glass has a plastic interleave between two pieces of
glass - and *can* be worked after.
Good day to you.
Falco
rpgs rock dvds
So it's not going to be cheap then? The 3 sheets are all 600mm x
848mm. I need the 848mm side ground down to 847mm, for each sheet.
Do you think it will cost more than £50?
Falco
> Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
>
>> Have a grown-up explain the differences between "laminated" and
>> "toughened" to you.
>
> Perhaps you could do so? I have several pieces of laminated glass
> which are toughened. i.e. the laminate is a sheet of toughened glass,
> the polymer then a sheet of non-toughened glass.
Not so - I have worked with glass for years and never seen such a hybrid.
> It's all very well to get snotty about these things, but you had
> better be sure of the grounds on which you build your heap of snot.
I think you had better take your own advice.
Falco
rpgs rock dvds
>> simply grind it using a diamond or carborundum stone (powered or manual).
Is this something that I can buy from my local hardware store (or
possibly ebay)? Would I need to be careful about ventilation, because
of glass particles in the air? I think if my glass supplier says to
bring in the sheets, and they can do it for less than £50, I'm tempted
to go for that approach, because I'm incredibly busy ATM, and would
like the glass ground down ASAP.
The Natural Philosopher
Steve Firth
> You are also unable to accurately read a post, the glass was stated as
> *LAMINATED* , which is an entirely different method of manufacture [1] - and
> as a result, "all bets" are *ON* - simply grind it using a diamond or
> carborundum stone (powered or manual). Just ensure that the glass is lying
> on a flat surface and take care and time in doing it.
http://glazeguard.com/safeguard.htm
Perhaps you can now admit that you were talking bollocks?
Steve Firth
I'll be surprised if you can get it done for �50. The last quote that I
had for scratch removal from glass was �150, this was for a minor
scratch that was simply bloody irritating and was much less than 1mm
deep. To skim 1mm off three sheets of glass seems like a major
undertaking.
I'm really surprised that it's not easier to adjust the frame. What is
stopping you?
Steve Firth
> >
> > Perhaps you could do so? I have several pieces of laminated glass
> > which are toughened. i.e. the laminate is a sheet of toughened glass,
> > the polymer then a sheet of non-toughened glass.
>
> Not so - I have worked with glass for years and never seen such a hybrid.
Then you've never owned a car because most cars nowadays have inner
toughened glass, exterior plain glass for the windscreen. I suspect some
are going to toughened glass both sides to reduce pedestrian
lacerations. It's well-proven technology. It's also used extensively in
safety laminated glass for domestic use (link provided elsewhere).
One assumes from your cockwitted comment that you're another glazier
with pretensions of competence.
rpgs rock dvds
>> I'm really surprised that it's not easier to adjust the frame. What is stopping you?
OK here's the situation. I've moved in to a flat, and just outside
the flat is some kind of contraption that makes a lot of noise. I
think it may be a generator for air conditioning. There's a shop
downstairs, and I think it's theirs. I can't make any alterations to
the flat in any way, because I'm just renting, and I'll be gone in
about 5 months time, so I want a quick and easy "solution".
The existing double glazing looks cheap and nasty. My "bodge job"
approach to this problem was to buy 3 sheets of thick lamenated glass,
and simply wedge them inside the inner window area, so that they sit
on top of the window sill, a little bit like secondary glazing.
Luckily, there's a kind of perimeter ridge area within this inner
window area, where I can lean the sheets of glass against. But
because the glass sheets are fractionally too tall, there's not enough
room for me to wedge them between the window sill at the bottom, and
the top part of the inner window area.
If I can't economically get 1mm shaved off the sheets, I could try a
different approach. But plan B is even more mad than the above plan
A. I could get a wood plane, and shave off about 1mm of the front
window sill area! That would allow me to get the 3 sheets of glass
wedged in and propped up inside the inner window area. However, this
will cause one significant problem: after planing the front part of
the window sill wood (the area which is furthest away from the
existing double glazing), the entire window sill wood area will get 2
height levels. One level will be lower (at the front where I want to
prop up the glass), and one level will be 1mm higher (at the back,
near where the existing glazing is.) So, you'll see a "ridge" where
these 2 levels meet. Could I sand that ridge down, to kind of merge
the 2 levels, so it won't be noticeable? Of course, I'll need to
repaint the window sill where I have used the wood plane. The flat is
a bit of a dump, and I doubt whether the owner cares about this... I
suppose the worst that could happen is I'll either get a deduction on
my flat rental deposit, or I'll get sectioned for being a loon.
Steve Firth
> The existing double glazing looks cheap and nasty. My "bodge job"
> approach to this problem was to buy 3 sheets of thick lamenated glass,
> and simply wedge them inside the inner window area, so that they sit
> on top of the window sill, a little bit like secondary glazing.
> Luckily, there's a kind of perimeter ridge area within this inner
> window area, where I can lean the sheets of glass against. But
> because the glass sheets are fractionally too tall, there's not enough
> room for me to wedge them between the window sill at the bottom, and
> the top part of the inner window area.
<light comes on>
So you don't want to reduce the thickness of the glass by 1mm, you
simply want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?
Any glazier should be able to do that for you.
Although you're going about things in a weird way IMO. Normally one
makes a frame to fit inside the window reveal and has the glass cut to
fit the frame. the reason for this being that it makes it easier to open
the window if necessary and that the frame can easily be adjusted to
take up any uneveness in the wall.
Or am I misunderstanding you again?
rpgs rock dvds
>> <light comes on>
>> So you don't want to reduce the thickness of the glass by 1mm, you simply want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?
[ ... (snip) ]
>> Or am I misunderstanding you again?
A-ha! No, you're correct. That's all I want to do. The glass is
10.8mm thick, and that's perfect - just what I need. The problem is
that the height of the glass (848mm) is fractionally too tall. If I
could reduce this height dimension to 847mm, it would then fit snugly
inside the inner window recess area.
Problem solved perhaps? I'll ring the glazing shop tomorrow morning,
and report back with their answer+price.
Thanks.
Dave Baker
"rpgs rock dvds" <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:90240c69-3717-40c2...@e28g2000vbd.googlegroups.com...
I'd shave the sills and then fill the gap with polyfiller just before you
move out and paint over it. No one will ever know.
--
Dave Baker
geoff
<%steve%@malloc.co.uk> writes
>rpgs rock dvds <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> The existing double glazing looks cheap and nasty. My "bodge job"
>> approach to this problem was to buy 3 sheets of thick lamenated glass,
>> and simply wedge them inside the inner window area, so that they sit
>> on top of the window sill, a little bit like secondary glazing.
>> Luckily, there's a kind of perimeter ridge area within this inner
>> window area, where I can lean the sheets of glass against. But
>> because the glass sheets are fractionally too tall, there's not enough
>> room for me to wedge them between the window sill at the bottom, and
>> the top part of the inner window area.
>
><light comes on>
>
>So you don't want to reduce the thickness of the glass by 1mm, you
>simply want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?
" I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of the sides. Is this
possible?"
That's what he said in his original post ...
>
>Any glazier should be able to do that for you.
>
>Although you're going about things in a weird way IMO. Normally one
>makes a frame to fit inside the window reveal and has the glass cut to
>fit the frame. the reason for this being that it makes it easier to open
>the window if necessary and that the frame can easily be adjusted to
>take up any uneveness in the wall.
>
>Or am I misunderstanding you again?
--
geoff
The Medway Handyman
> rpgs rock dvds <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> The existing double glazing looks cheap and nasty. My "bodge job"
>> approach to this problem was to buy 3 sheets of thick lamenated
>> glass, and simply wedge them inside the inner window area, so that
>> they sit on top of the window sill, a little bit like secondary
>> glazing. Luckily, there's a kind of perimeter ridge area within this
>> inner window area, where I can lean the sheets of glass against. But
>> because the glass sheets are fractionally too tall, there's not
>> enough room for me to wedge them between the window sill at the
>> bottom, and the top part of the inner window area.
>
> <light comes on>
>
> So you don't want to reduce the thickness of the glass by 1mm, you
> simply want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?
>
> Any glazier should be able to do that for you.
OP; "I bought some glass, but it's about 1mm too tall."
Seemed simple enough to me.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
geoff
Streater <timst...@waitrose.com> writes
>In article <CX0A7UQx...@demon.co.uk>, geoff <tr...@uk-diy.org>
>wrote:
>
>> In message <1jiyad3.e5f6an1mrt7ilN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk>, Steve Firth
>> <%steve%@malloc.co.uk> writes
>> >rpgs rock dvds <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>> >
>> >> The existing double glazing looks cheap and nasty. My "bodge job"
>> >> approach to this problem was to buy 3 sheets of thick lamenated glass,
>> >> and simply wedge them inside the inner window area, so that they sit
>> >> on top of the window sill, a little bit like secondary glazing.
>> >> Luckily, there's a kind of perimeter ridge area within this inner
>> >> window area, where I can lean the sheets of glass against. But
>> >> because the glass sheets are fractionally too tall, there's not enough
>> >> room for me to wedge them between the window sill at the bottom, and
>> >> the top part of the inner window area.
>> >
>> ><light comes on>
>> >
>> >So you don't want to reduce the thickness of the glass by 1mm, you
>> >simply want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?
>>
>> " I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of the sides. Is this
>> possible?"
>>
>> That's what he said in his original post ...
>
>*thinner* not 1mm *shorter*. If he meant shorter why dint he say shave
>1mm off oner *edge*? Eh? Eh?
>
>Klods need to learn to express therselves proper like.
>
A side is a side, a face is a face
seemed pretty clear to me
--
geoff
Harry Bloomfield
> A-ha! No, you're correct. That's all I want to do. The glass is
> 10.8mm thick, and that's perfect - just what I need. The problem is
> that the height of the glass (848mm) is fractionally too tall. If I
> could reduce this height dimension to 847mm, it would then fit snugly
> inside the inner window recess area.
>
> Problem solved perhaps? I'll ring the glazing shop tomorrow morning,
> and report back with their answer+price.
> Thanks.
Are you sure the noise is air-borne? A/C's are often mounted on outside
walls and the vibration could be travelling through the wall, rather
that noise through the window.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
rpgs rock dvds
wrote:
>> Are you sure the noise is air-borne? A/C's are often mounted on outside walls and the vibration could be travelling through the wall, rather that noise through the window.
Unfortunately, I think you're right. The A/C unit (if that's what it
is) is mounted on the outside flat wall, and it's fairly likely the
noise will be travelling through the wall. However, the cheap n nasty
double glazing does appear to be one weak link in the flat, sound
wise. There's nothing I can do about the vibration, but if the
secondary glazing plan works and cuts down the noise by a quarter or a
third, then that'll be good enough. I hope.
I was at the flat today at about 7 AM. I wonder why the downstairs
shop needs it running on Sunday morning? There was no one there.
This thing makes a noise for about 30 seconds, then stops. 4-5
minutes later, the same thing happens. Again and again... I've been
at the flat during work day hours, and the thing makes a louder sound
for longer periods.
Falco
> "Falco" <falco@diilly-daally....invalid.com> wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Perhaps you could do so? I have several pieces of laminated glass
>>> which are toughened. i.e. the laminate is a sheet of toughened
>>> glass, the polymer then a sheet of non-toughened glass.
>>
>> Not so - I have worked with glass for years and never seen such a
>> hybrid.
>
> Then you've never owned a car because most cars nowadays have inner
> toughened glass, exterior plain glass for the windscreen. I suspect
> some are going to toughened glass both sides to reduce pedestrian
> lacerations. It's well-proven technology. It's also used extensively
> in safety laminated glass for domestic use (link provided elsewhere).
Driven and played with cars for more years than I can remember, and even
seen the 'horse collar' and facial laceration injuries caused by the *early*
laminated and toughened glass - but I have *NEVER* seen a combination of
both - what's the purpose of that then?
Surely toughened glass is designed to shatter and safely fall away when
broken - and laminated glass when brokenn is designed to break and stay in
one piece to prevent injuries such as 'horse collar' - and a such a hybrid
to my thoughts at the moment is
Please supply your link to this - as I consider your information to be
incorrect.
> One assumes from your cockwitted comment that you're another glazier
> with pretensions of competence.
Certainly not a glazier, but I have worked with glass over many years as
part of my job - as for "cockwitted", then there seems to be a touch of
"saucepan calling the kettle black" - especially from the "incompetence" of
many of your replies in the various groups you post in.
BTW, if you're going to google for a link, try looking at Tufflam - but this
is a structural glass (used in flooring etc) with the properties that you
describe and not generally used in domestic or motoring situations.
Now don't forget to post your link
Falco
Falco
> rpgs rock dvds <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> The existing double glazing looks cheap and nasty. My "bodge job"
>> approach to this problem was to buy 3 sheets of thick lamenated
>> glass, and simply wedge them inside the inner window area, so that
>> they sit on top of the window sill, a little bit like secondary
>> glazing. Luckily, there's a kind of perimeter ridge area within this
>> inner window area, where I can lean the sheets of glass against. But
>> because the glass sheets are fractionally too tall, there's not
>> enough room for me to wedge them between the window sill at the
>> bottom, and the top part of the inner window area.
>
> <light comes on>
>
I thought it was obvious from the first post of this thread that the glass
was oversize in height or width (or both). And you called me *cockwitted*,
shakes head and sighs! *eg*
Harry Bloomfield
> Again and again... I've been
> at the flat during work day hours, and the thing makes a louder sound
> for longer periods.
Likely, with the shop door open or opening frequently it will need to
do more work. Might be worth having a word with the shop owner and
asking if they might be prepared to turn it off when they are closed,
or add a time clock - it would save them quite a lot in their bills if
it were.
Vibration in the outer wall, will pass straight through to the inner
via the wall ties if it is a cavity wall.
ARWadsworth
"Harry Bloomfield" <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:mn.bca67da575...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk...
Or spoil the food if it is a refridgeration system and not an aircon unit:-)
Adam
Andy Champ
>
> Or spoil the food if it is a refridgeration system and not an aircon unit:-)
>
Which would be my guess too - and explain why it runs 24 hours, but
works harder in the day when they open the fridge door.(1)
Andy
--
(1) It'll probably be room sized, or a room full of cabinets, not a
domestic system
Steve Firth
> Please supply your link to this
I already have.
> - as I consider your information to be
> incorrect.
Whoop-de-do, some anonymous troll has delusions of competence. Should I
be concerned? ... No.
Andy Dingley
> Perhaps you could do so? I have several pieces of laminated glass which
> are toughened. i.e. the laminate is a sheet of toughened glass, the
> polymer then a sheet of non-toughened glass.
Bullshit Steve.
Talk to a glass laminator and they might (if they can be arsed to talk
to know-it-all fuckwit #3 round here) why you can't have toughened in
a lamination.
If you find a way of doing this, there's a market calling out for it.
If you think you can do it with a cold adhesive laminate then there's
already a market for that, but it's no use to man nor beast as it
looks bad and it has no more strength than plain toughened.
Andy Dingley
wrote:
> Although its unusual, I think that such composites exist.
Well there you go, fuckwit #2 chips in. What more proof could there be?
Andy Dingley
> I'll be surprised if you can get it done for £50. The last quote that I
> had for scratch removal from glass was £150,
Aye Steve, but a tenner to anyone else would be a quote for £150 to an
oil magnate like you.
Steve Firth
> On 23 May, 12:19, %ste...@malloc.co.uk (Steve Firth) wrote:
>
> > Perhaps you could do so? I have several pieces of laminated glass which
> > are toughened. i.e. the laminate is a sheet of toughened glass, the
> > polymer then a sheet of non-toughened glass.
>
> Bullshit Steve.
No it's not, Dingleberry.
> Talk to a glass laminator and they might (if they can be arsed to talk
> to know-it-all fuckwit #3 round here) why you can't have toughened in
> a lamination.
I've already posted one URL from a laminator who will provide toughened
glass laminations. Here's another URL explaining how toughned glass is
used in laminated windscreens.
http://www.answers.com/topic/automobile-windshield
You will also find that it's mandatory to use toughened glass in
European (CE marked) windscreens to reduce facial lacerations in the
event of someone's facing impacting the inner surface of the windscreen.
Here's the URL I provided earlier that it appears you, and other
fuckwits like you couldn't be bothered to read:
Steve Firth
> Talk to a glass laminator and they might (if they can be arsed to talk
> to know-it-all fuckwit #3 round here) why you can't have toughened in
> a lamination.
Oh look, here's a data sheet from the major UK supplier of toughened,
laminated glass something you say doesn't exist. Apology on its way yet,
Dingleberry?
Cicero
=====================================================================
If the window sill has been painted several times (several
paint layers) then you could easily have more than a
millimetre thickness of paint. Stripping the paint from the
sill (and possibly the top of the frame) might give you the
required clearance without any need to grind the glass or
plane down the sill. You might also gain some extra
clearance on the sill using a wood scraper or just coarse
sand paper. Paint stripper is available from any decorating
shop - Nitromors is widely used.
Cic.
--
======================================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
======================================================================
Steve Firth
> Talk to a glass laminator and they might (if they can be arsed to talk
> to know-it-all fuckwit #3 round here) why you can't have toughened in
> a lamination.
And again:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Broken_Laminated_glass.JPG
And for the hard of thinking "tempered" is a synonym for "toughened":
"Toughened glass (also known as tempered glass) is a type of safety glass that has increased
strength and will usually shatter in small, square pieces when broken."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Architectural_glass#Toughened_glass_.28tempered_glass.29
What sort of "glass laminator" have you been talking to Dingleberry? An imaginary one?
rpgs rock dvds
>> If the window sill has been painted several times (several paint layers) then you could easily have more than a millimetre thickness of paint. Stripping the paint from the sill (and possibly the top of the frame) might give you the required clearance without any need to grind the glass or plane down the sill. You might also gain some extra clearance on the sill using a wood scraper or just coarse sand paper. Paint stripper is available from any decorating shop - Nitromors is widely used.
I like this idea! :) Also, an update (which I wrote before reading
your post) -
I rang the glass shop, and explained that I wanted 2mm removed from
the height of the 3 sheets of glass - to reduce the height dimension
of each sheet from 848mm to 846mm. Originally, I said 1mm in my
previous posts, but I now want an extra 1mm more, just to make sure
the glass will fit OK. Unfortunately, the glass shop explained to me
that it's a non trivial task, because the glass is so thick, at
10.8mm. Also, they can't do anything until later on this week. I was
not given a price, because they weren't sure how much it would cost.
I asked them if they could cut the minimum amount off the height of
the glass sheets, and they said that the smallest cut they could do
was about 50mm. That's probably too much.
So, I may have to go back to Plan B, and that is to alter the window
sill in some way - to reduce the height of it by 1mm or 2mm, so I can
get the glass sheets to fit OK. However, shaving off large sections
of the window sill wood will probably be a maintenance problem when I
come to vacate the flat - to make it look like the sill hasn't been
altered in any way. I've got to think of a better way of reducing the
height of the window sill, which is then much easier to patch up when
I leave the flat. How about some kind of very sharp and small width
"wood chisel", which can cut/shave a thin width "trench" (eg 11mm just
enough for the 10.8mm thickness of the glass to sit in), in to the
surface of the window sill? Afterwards, I can just fill in that
"trench" with wood putty or something, and then paint over it.
Would a "wood chisel" and a "wood scraper" be the same kind of tool?
BTW, there doesn't look like there's lots of paint on the window sill
wood.
Cicero
=====================================================================
I think it would be preferable to concentrate on increasing
the window aperture rather than trying to get the glass
reduced; you could end up with a large pile of broken glass.
A chisel is not the same as a scraper; a scraper is a thin
flexible flat sheet of metal about 1-2mm thick and would not
cut the kind of groove you're considering. On the other hand
a chisel can be used (with some difficulty) as a scraper and
could be used to cut a groove used conventionally.
If you want to try using a chisel (say about 1/2") mark the
position of the groove and score the edges deeply with a
Stanley knife. Then work from the centre with your (very
sharp) chisel towards the sides of the window reveal. Use
the chisel almost flat with the surface. When you've created
a groove clean it up by scraping the chisel (held
vertically) along the bottom of the groove.
If you've got a router (or can borrow one) most of the
groove might be possible using that - finish with a chisel
as described above.
rpgs rock dvds
(snip)
>> If you want to try using a chisel (say about 1/2") mark the position of the groove and score the edges deeply with a Stanley knife. Then work from the centre with your (very sharp) chisel towards the sides of the window reveal. Use the chisel almost flat with the surface. When you've created a groove clean it up by scraping the chisel (held vertically) along the bottom of the groove.
Thanks! I'm going to get a chisel from a local hardware store and do
this.
dennis@home
"Andy Dingley" <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote in message
news:680d440b-9a00-4a0c...@z17g2000vbd.googlegroups.com...
> On 23 May, 10:47, The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid>
> wrote:
>> rpgs rock dvds wrote:
>
>> > thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off
>
>> essentially no.
>>
>> Especiially if toughened.
>
> Have a grown-up explain the differences between "laminated" and
> "toughened" to you.
Being laminated does not exclude being toughened.
For example car windscreens are toughened and laminated.
dennis@home
"Andy Dingley" <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote in message
news:0c2dc2d8-a4fa-46b1...@m21g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
They use such laminates in shopping centres like Merry Hill and in
escalators and balconies (well the ones that are done properly).
You can go and look at the toughening marks and the plastic interlayer if
you want to actually see some.
BTW why can't you have a toughened glass laminate?
dennis@home
"Steve Firth" <%steve%@malloc.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1jixzeu.tfgjjx15jl1z4N%%steve%@malloc.co.uk...
> rpgs rock dvds <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> It's
>> thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of
>> the sides. Is this possible? Thanks a lot for any ideas.
>
> Pilkington can do it. I doubt that you could at home. If you could,
> you'd be the sort of person who makes his own telescope lenses and
> mirrors and you'd know what to do. As others have said, if it's
> toughened glass, which is probably is, then all bets are off.
DTGTTS.
Grinding mirrors is easy, correcting them is harder.
Cicero
======================================================================
Get an oil stone and a tin of 3-in-1 oil too - chisels are
safest and most effective when they're sharp.
Happy chiselling!
dennis@home
"rpgs rock dvds" <cccd...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:39d0ac94-45ed-4b7d...@r9g2000vbk.googlegroups.com...
> On 23 May, 15:21, %ste...@malloc.co.uk (Steve Firth) wrote:
>>> <light comes on>
>
>>> So you don't want to reduce the thickness of the glass by 1mm, you
>>> simply want to cut the glass so that it fits inside the opening?
>
> [ ... (snip) ]
>
>>> Or am I misunderstanding you again?
>
> A-ha! No, you're correct. That's all I want to do. The glass is
> 10.8mm thick, and that's perfect - just what I need. The problem is
> that the height of the glass (848mm) is fractionally too tall. If I
> could reduce this height dimension to 847mm, it would then fit snugly
> inside the inner window recess area.
>
> Problem solved perhaps? I'll ring the glazing shop tomorrow morning,
> and report back with their answer+price.
> Thanks.
You will almost certainly find its cheaper to have ~>30 mm cut off top and
side and make a frame to put it in (assuming its not toughened).
It will also be easier to fix when its framed.
For sound deadening you want at least 100 mm gap between the panes BTW.
rpgs rock dvds
>> For sound deadening you want at least 100 mm gap between the panes BTW.
Luckily, there's approximately that width gap between the existing
double glazing, and where I intend to prop up these sheets of
"temporary secondary glazing" glass.
Alan Braggins
> How about some kind of very sharp and small width
>"wood chisel", which can cut/shave a thin width "trench" (eg 11mm just
>enough for the 10.8mm thickness of the glass to sit in), in to the
>surface of the window sill?
Dave
> I bought some glass, but it's about 1mm too tall. (It would take a
> long dull paragraph to explain everything, so I'll skip that.) It's
> thick lamenate glass, and I need to shave off / plane 1mm off one of
> the sides. Is this possible? Thanks a lot for any ideas.
Man next door has a job replacing JCB and other plant glass and he tells
me that the shortest crop you can do with laminated glass is 10 mm and
it involves using heat on the double scribe line.
I would go for the way another poster wrote and chop it by 50 mm and
make a frame.
Dave
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george [dicegeorge]
I used my Bosch PMF, to cut and sand.
Sharp chisels for the corners.
Good excuse to buy a wonderful tool if you havent already!