which way round to use ratchet crimping tool?
Al Reynolds
I have now purchased this ratchet crimping tool:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DVDHCR15.html
and am using it with these crimps:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CTBUTTslashB.html
What I wanted to know is: where do I use the tool
on the crimps? I had originally assumed that the two
sides of the jaw would both go on the central section
of the crimp, but the two sides of the jaw differ. One
has a "flatter" arch and the other has a more "rounded"
arch.
I assume then that you use either use the tool twice (both
ways round) on the central section, or once on each side
of the crimp.
I have drawn a diagram showing what the two sides
of the jaws look like. The picture is at:
http://www.bat400.com/images/crimping.gif
My instinct is that when crimping the (1&2) end of the
crimp, the flatter (A) jaw should be at (1), and the more
rounded (B) jaw should be at (2). Can anyone confirm
or correct me on this?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Al Reynolds
Tim Mitchell
<a...@bat400.com> writes
>Hello,
>
>I have now purchased this ratchet crimping tool:
>
>My instinct is that when crimping the (1&2) end of the
>crimp, the flatter (A) jaw should be at (1), and the more
>rounded (B) jaw should be at (2). Can anyone confirm
>or correct me on this?
>
Yes, the wider part goes round the outer end of the crimp, where the
wire insulation is. For butt crimps like you are using, you crimp twice,
once for each wire, keeping the wider part on the outside.
--
Tim Mitchell
Peter Parry
wrote:
>I had originally assumed that the two
>sides of the jaw would both go on the central section
>of the crimp,
No.
>I assume then that you use either use the tool twice (both
>ways round) on the central section,
No.
>or once on each side of the crimp.
Yes.
>I have drawn a diagram showing what the two sides
>of the jaws look like. The picture is at:
>http://www.bat400.com/images/crimping.gif
>
>My instinct is that when crimping the (1&2) end of the
>crimp, the flatter (A) jaw should be at (1), and the more
>rounded (B) jaw should be at (2). Can anyone confirm
>or correct me on this?
On the diagram A appears to be rounder and B flatter so I'm not sure
if you have you A's and B's mixed up in the description above. Using
the diagram labelling the B (flatter) part fits at 2 and the A
(rounder) part at 1. On the other end you put B at 3 and A at 4.
If you hold the tool in your right hand and insert the crimp from the
left so the cable (at end 1 in your diagram) is in your left hand
then the orientation is correct.
--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/
Al Reynolds
"Peter Parry" <pe...@wpp.ltd.uk> wrote:
> Al Reynolds" <a...@bat400.com> wrote:
> >I have drawn a diagram showing what the two sides
> >of the jaws look like. The picture is at:
> > http://www.bat400.com/images/crimping.gif
>
> On the diagram A appears to be rounder and B flatter so I'm not sure
> if you have you A's and B's mixed up in the description above.
Absolutely right - I did get the descriptions the wrong way
around. It should have said:
> > When crimping the (1&2) end of the crimp, the more
> > rounded (A) jaw should be at (1), and the flatter (B)
> > jaw should be at (2)
which is what you said - thanks for clarifying that.
One more question, now that we know which way round I
should be working - how strong should a crimp be? For
example, should I be able to pull it apart by hand? I read
somewhere that the crimp should be at least as strong as the
uncrimped cable, from which I would assume that I shouldn't
be able to pull it apart.
TIA,
Al
Christian McArdle
> wire insulation is. For butt crimps like you are using, you crimp twice,
> once for each wire, keeping the wider part on the outside.
I always crimp 4 times, 2 for each wire. Paranoid, moi?
Christian.
use...@isbd.co.uk
tool for the crimp the tool is designed to squash the crimp just
enough and no more. If you then do it again I think you're likely to
damage (e.g. crack) the crimp and it certainly won't improve the
connection.
--
Chris Green
Christian McArdle
> the crimp and it certainly won't improve the connection.
I do the second one quite far from the initial crimp for this reason. A few
quick tests have shown greater mechanical strength, if nothing else.
Christian.
Peter Parry
wrote:
>One more question, now that we know which way round I
>should be working - how strong should a crimp be? For
>example, should I be able to pull it apart by hand?
Not unless you indulge in weight lifting. The crimps do have pull
apart figures. For some heatshrink sleeved crimps we use these are
red: 25 lb; blue: 50 lb; yellow: 60 lb. The figures for crimps not
incorporating heatshrink sleeving will be lower.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf is a good article
on crimp terminations and suggests the following "calibration" test -
"(1) Drive a finish nail into the front of your
workbench. (2) Hang the terminal lug on the nail and tie a
plastic 1 gallon milk jug of water onto a 22AWG wire (red
terminals). For 18AWG (blue) use two jugs. For 12AWG
(yellow) use three jugs. "
http://lib1.store.vip.sc5.yahoo.com/lib/paladintoolsusa/calibration.pdf
contains some more formal figures for insulated terminals and
quotes:-
Wire Size Pull-out Force
20 AWG (0.50mm2) >/= 13.0 lbs (58 N)
18 AWG (0.75mm2) >/= 20.2 lbs (90 N)
16 AWG (1.5mm2) >/= 30.3 lbs (135 N)
14 AWG (2.5mm2) >/= 43.8 lbs (195 N)
12 AWG (4.0mm2) >/= 60.7 lbs (270 N)
10 AWG (6.0mm2) >/= 80.9 lbs (360 N)
use...@isbd.co.uk
one squish at each end leaves very little of the connector unsquished.
--
Chris Green
Dave Plowman
Al Reynolds <a...@bat400.com> wrote:
> What I wanted to know is: where do I use the tool
> on the crimps? I had originally assumed that the two
> sides of the jaw would both go on the central section
> of the crimp, but the two sides of the jaw differ. One
> has a "flatter" arch and the other has a more "rounded"
> arch.
If you check inside those crimps, you'll find they have a partition so the
wires go in to the same length. And that partition won't deform to crimp
anything - try it without any wire in one.
--
*Someday, we'll look back on this, laugh nervously and change the subject
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Christian McArdle
> one squish at each end leaves very little of the connector unsquished.
Sounds like my crimps are longer than yours! There's plenty of space on mine
to double crimp without interfering with each other.
Christian.