"PeterC" <
giraffe...@homecall.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1i1972lpj9qhy$.1wfa4cqg47tt8$.dlg@40tude.net...
> On Tue, 20 Jun 2023 12:08:33 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote:
>
>> On 19/06/2023 10:35, wasbit wrote:
>>> Don't see the OP so replied here.
>>>
>>> Pushing a blade puts it in compression & it may buckle.
>>> Pulling a blade puts it under tension - easier on the muscles.
>>
>> A hacksaw typically supports the blade from both ends. Whether the blade
>> is being pulled from the handle end (a pull cut) or from the other end
>> (a push cut) should make no difference to the blade, only the ease you
>> have in cutting.
>>
>> Unless of course your hacksaw is really flexible. In that case it may
>> fail to keep the blade in tension on a push cut.
>>
>> Andy
>
> The one use of pull with a hacksaw (or any other) blade is with a padsaw.
> I've a couple of pull saws from Aldidl; the small one is a pad saw and the
> big one is vary good for v. narrow cuts.
> Always takes a while to get used to them - and the teeth are bloody
> vicious!
So if you have a hacksaw (*) with a push blade, and you've tightened the
tensioning mechanism as tight as you can, but the blade still buckles and
bends (sometimes irreversibly) immediately on the handle side of the work
being cut, what can be done to rectify the problem? I've found that this has
happened with most hacksaws that I've used, and I've resorted to reversing
the blade so it cuts on the pull stroke which causes the problem to
disappear. It's worst when cutting very thin metal sheet which is a similar
thickness to the spacing of the teeth, because that often causes the teeth
to bind in the metal and the blade buckles before you have had chance to
stop pushing it forwards.
(*) Either a junior hacksaw with a fixed frame or a full-size hacksaw with a
frame in two halves which can be set to lock at various lengths to
accommodate different blades.