drilling hole for 110mm waste

[Paul]

shortly i will be refitting my bathroom which entails moving the loo, as the
waste is 110mm i take it i will have to hire a drill for the job. i have an
sds drill and was thinking of chain drilling the circumference and the
chiselling out the centre. if i hire a drill bit what type am i after?

Paul.

[BigWallop]

"Paul" <paul.o...@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:2gppq7F...@uni-berlin.de:

You get yourself a big drill pistol and a bit called a core cutter that is
the right size for the job. The core cutter should allow you a bit of
clearance around the pipe, so get one at 120mm, or close to, so that you
don't have to force the pipe into the hole.

Remember also that the wall could be a cavity construction so you might
also need an extention for the core cutter bit. Ask in the hire shop for
advice on this.

[John Stumbles]

"BigWallop" <spamguard@_spam_guard.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94EBC766C1392sp...@193.38.113.46...

> "Paul" <paul.o...@ntlworld.com> wrote in
> news:2gppq7F...@uni-berlin.de:
>
> > shortly i will be refitting my bathroom which entails moving the loo,
> > as the waste is 110mm i take it i will have to hire a drill for the
> > job. i have an sds drill and was thinking of chain drilling the
> > circumference and the chiselling out the centre. if i hire a drill bit
> > what type am i after?
> >
> > Paul.
> >
> >
> >
>
> You get yourself a big drill pistol and a bit called a core cutter that is
> the right size for the job. The core cutter should allow you a bit of
> clearance around the pipe, so get one at 120mm, or close to, so that you
> don't have to force the pipe into the hole.

117mm is the typical size for 4"

> Remember also that the wall could be a cavity construction so you might
> also need an extention for the core cutter bit. Ask in the hire shop for
> advice on this.

Make sure you get a drilling machine which has a torque clutch so it doesn't
wrench your arms off when it snags!

[Set Square]

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Paul <paul.o...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

You might actually find that you get a better hole by drilling a ring of 8mm
holes with an SDS drill than if you hire a core drill. The latter fits into
a Kango-type device, and cuts and hammers its way through the wall. Trouble
is that you're just as likely to push the bricks out of the way as to cut
them cleanly. They tend to stay put better when you're drilling small holes.

Either way, you'll need some mortar round the pipe - which will cover up any
slight raggedness in your chain-drilled hole.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is Black Hole!

[BillV]

"Set Square" <d...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:2gpv10F...@uni-berlin.de...

No making good needed with a diamond corer. They break out very cleanly.
Well worth the price difference. Especially useful when the outside is not
easily accessible.
e.g. boiler flue for a 2nd floor flat.

[dave]

"G&M" <m11...@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<c88dkc$5gj$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>...

> "BigWallop" <spamguard@_spam_guard.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns94EBC766C1392sp...@193.38.113.46...

> > > shortly i will be refitting my bathroom which entails moving the loo,
> > > as the waste is 110mm i take it i will have to hire a drill for the
> > > job.>

> > You get yourself a big drill pistol and a bit called a core cutter that is
> > the right size for the job. The core cutter should allow you a bit of
> > clearance around the pipe, so get one at 120mm, or close to, so that you
> > don't have to force the pipe into the hole.
>

> I recently had to do this and bought myself a very resonably priced 117mm x 500mm diamond core core drill with arbour and drill guide( about 50quid). I used this with a powerdevil 1010 watt sds drill ( cost of 29.99 ). Unfortunatly someone had tiled over the area, even though they were asked not to).
going through the brick ( old stock 9" solid wall)was quite easy but
the initial cutting through the tiles was ,ahem, 'difficult'.

[dave]

er 117mm x 500 should read 117mm X 150mm diamond core drill.

[TheScullster]

Paul

I recently hired a 5" diamond cutter with drill and extension.
I think HSS wanted to charge £35 per day.
The local hire shop checked with me that it was for a single hole (which it
was) and charged me £15.
Very neat hole with no external brick breakage.
Went through breeze blocks a breeze, but external brick work was tough going
(I am not, it has to be said, of a build that is particularly for this sort
of work and I was crammed into a loft corner at the time).
My only complaint was a blunt pilot drill with the cutter - I just piloted
through first.

Core drill is the way to go!

I have chain drilled in the past, but with that method you have 20 or 30
opportunities for the drill to wander!

HTH

Phil

[William Joones]

> No making good needed with a diamond corer. They break out very cleanly.
> Well worth the price difference. Especially useful when the outside is not
> easily accessible.
> e.g. boiler flue for a 2nd floor flat.

I guess from this that you have installed a boiler flue in a 2nd floor
flat? I have a really similar problem - I want to put a vent pipe
though my kitchen wall (2nd floor flat) for a cooker hood extractor.
I'm happy to hire a diamond core drill to make the whole - but have no
idea how to put a cap over the vent pipe on the outside of the wall.

If I dont, I guess that water has a entry point into the render on the
outside of the wall - which doesnt seem like a good idea.

Any ideas?

Will

[BillV]

"William Joones" <william_j...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:643b8e57.04051...@posting.google.com...

> > No making good needed with a diamond corer. They break out very cleanly.
> > Well worth the price difference. Especially useful when the outside is
not
> > easily accessible.
> > e.g. boiler flue for a 2nd floor flat.
>
> I guess from this that you have installed a boiler flue in a 2nd floor
> flat? I have a really similar problem - I want to put a vent pipe
> though my kitchen wall (2nd floor flat) for a cooker hood extractor.

> I'm happy to hire a diamond core drill to make the hole - but have no

> idea how to put a cap over the vent pipe on the outside of the wall.
>
> If I dont, I guess that water has a entry point into the render on the
> outside of the wall - which doesnt seem like a good idea.
>
> Any ideas?

The combi flues have a cunning rubber seal for the outside.
You push it through the hole from the inside then pull it back so the
flexible rim seals against the wall. The hole has to be the exact size
specified by the manufacturer, in my case this was 117mm which a size that
easy to hire.
Look at any recent combi install and you'll probably see this.

I've seen a couple of "pro" installs where the gap was sealed from the
inside with filler foam.
Looked messy as the excess couldn't be cut off and it degraded in sunlight.

[William Joones]

> The combi flues have a cunning rubber seal for the outside.
> You push it through the hole from the inside then pull it back so the
> flexible rim seals against the wall. The hole has to be the exact size
> specified by the manufacturer, in my case this was 117mm which a size that
> easy to hire.
> Look at any recent combi install and you'll probably see this.
>
> I've seen a couple of "pro" installs where the gap was sealed from the
> inside with filler foam.
> Looked messy as the excess couldn't be cut off and it degraded in sunlight.

Thanks for this Billv. Sounds like a excellent soulution if you are
installing a flue!
You havent seen a similar cunning arrangement for vent pipes have you?
I'd really rather not have to go up a ladder to the second floor or
get some scaffolding in for something small like this...