How to move a Yale cylinder hole?
S. Endon-Lee
The previous occupent of my home seems to have mastered the art of
bodging, kludging and fix-ups. The latest one I've found is one of
the entrance door locks.
It is a Yale night latch. Not only has only one of the cylinders been
replaced, so that the inside handle is no longer lockable as it
retains its original cylinder, for which I have no keys, but the
centre of the hole for the cylinder is - wait for it - 45mm from the
edge of the door.
I'm in the process of replacing the lock, and have bought a Yale PBS2,
which requires the centre of the cylinder hole to be 40mm from the
edge of the door.
The problem is the cylinder-hole. Unlike a Hollywood cartoon, I can't
just insert my finger and move the hole 5mm closer to the edge of the
door, so what do I do?
Do I:
1) Fill it in and re-drill elswhere on the door? (This means I need to
move the position of the strike-plate, which will leave the door jamb
looking very ugly)
2) Replace the door?
3) Somehow remove 5mm from one side of the hole and add 5mm to the
other?
4) Run around in small circles shouting 'Eep!'?
I'm tempted to go for the new-door option - but it's a lot of expense
generated by an apparently trivial issue.
Thanks for any advice.
Sid
Nick Nelson
"S. Endon-Lee" wrote:
> The problem is the cylinder-hole. Unlike a Hollywood cartoon, I can't
> just insert my finger and move the hole 5mm closer to the edge of the
> door, so what do I do?
How neat is the existing hole?
The best way would be to glue a well fitting piece of softwood
into the old hole, sand off both ends and recut the hole where
you now need it to be.
With care it might be easier to recut the old hole to suit
whatever you have to glue into it rather than try and shape
the new wood to the old hole.
Nick
Tony Williams
S. Endon-Lee <unop...@mail.com> wrote:
> It is a Yale night latch. Not only has only one of the cylinders been
> replaced, so that the inside handle is no longer lockable as it
> retains its original cylinder, for which I have no keys, but the
> centre of the hole for the cylinder is - wait for it - 45mm from the
> edge of the door.
> I'm in the process of replacing the lock, and have bought a Yale PBS2,
> which requires the centre of the cylinder hole to be 40mm from the
> edge of the door.
I have a similar prob, replacing a 45? mm Yale that
I fitted, with a 44mm Legge. The Yale did not need
a recess in the door, and the Legge does (and needs
a touch more chiselling for the striker plate, and
6 different screwholes for the lock and striker).
I stood there and measured it all up, then decided
that a front door was more precious than a Legge lock.
So am going to look first for something compatible,
another Yale, or whatever.
--
Tony Williams.
George Middleton
<to...@ledelec.demon.co.uk> writes
>> I'm in the process of replacing the lock, and have bought a Yale PBS2,
>> which requires the centre of the cylinder hole to be 40mm from the
>> edge of the door.
Plane 5mm from the edge of the door (so that hole is 40mm from edge).
Plane the hinge edge to remove the hinge recesses.
Glue a 10mm thick strip of hardwood to the hinge edge.
Plane the strip to give required door width.
Chisel new hinge recesses.
Rehang door and fit lock.
--
George
Thomas Prufer
>4) Run around in small circles shouting 'Eep!'?
I like it, I really do...
What I'd do: borrow a 45 (or more) Forstner bit and get a
corresponding wood plug, as used to plug knotholes. Both to be found
at cabinetmakers etc.; you should offer a deposit for the bit, as they
aren't cheap. Drill a 45 mm hole through a bit of scrap. Clamp the
hole-in-scrap over the old hole; this is a guide for the bit, as there
isn't anything to take the pilot point thing of the bit in the old
hole. It will keep the bit form going all over the door. Drill out,
using a handheld drill, glue in 45mm plug, plane & sand smooth.
The sanding will be the part that takes longest, aside from the glue
drying, painting and digging wood chips out of the carpet where you
trampled them in. You shouldn't need to unhang the door.
Then drill the new holes where you want them.
Thomas Prufer
JWL
"S. Endon-Lee" <unop...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:34d9e708.02112...@posting.google.com...
Sid
A number of years ago a friend drilled a 1.5" diameter hole in his door
1.25" from the edge to take a Yale cylinder, it should have been 1.25" in
diameter 1.5" from the edge! A simple plug turned on a lathe was the
answer. There are wood turners throughout the country who would do it
quickly for very little cash. Find an address in any one of the Woodturning
Magazines at WHSmiths or visit your nearest Craft Fair and talk to the chap
selling bowls, light pulls, pens etc.
Unfortunately my lathe is out of commission at the moment but I'm sure there
is somebody reading this who could help.
John
Lee Blaver
> I would love some informed advice here.
>
> which requires the centre of the cylinder hole to be 40mm from the
> edge of the door.
>
> The problem is the cylinder-hole. Unlike a Hollywood cartoon, I can't
> just insert my finger and move the hole 5mm closer to the edge of the
> door, so what do I do?
Wood plug?
Or find a lock that needs the hole in the same place :-)
Our self-deadlocking Yale has the hole at 44mm from the edge, admittedly
it's 8 years old ...
Lee
Paul C. Dickie
"S. Endon-Lee" <unop...@mail.com> writes
> I would love some informed advice here.
> The previous occupent of my home seems to have mastered the art of
> bodging, kludging and fix-ups. The latest one I've found is one of
> the entrance door locks.
> It is a Yale night latch. Not only has only one of the cylinders been
> replaced, so that the inside handle is no longer lockable as it
> retains its original cylinder, for which I have no keys, but the
> centre of the hole for the cylinder is - wait for it - 45mm from the
> edge of the door.
Solution #1 -- a kludge!
Plane 2mm from the edge of the door and, using a half-round file,
increase the size of the hole by 3mm but *only* on the side of the hole
facing the door edge. The cylinder bezel should cover the increased gap
but, if not, fit a fancy bezel perhaps in the shape of a lion's head...
Solution #2
For the cost of the postage and packaging, I'll turn you a wooden plug
as a one-off, but I'll need to know the thickness of the door, the
diameter of the hole and, of course, your postal address. I've lots of
off-cuts in my workshop and one is certain to be suitable.
If that sounds better to you, email me with those details.
--
< Paul >
jacob
oversize from a board so that the grain is across the end of the plug.
Then taper each plug until they are tight fits in the hole, but proud
of the surface and with the grain lined up to match the door. Doesn't
matter if they don't meet in the middle. Glue them in, plane off the
excess when dry, then drill new hole with a brace and bit - much
quicker neater and easier then a power drill.
Or, buy another lock the right size.
cheers
Jacob
S. Endon-Lee
> In article <34d9e708.02112...@posting.google.com>,
> "S. Endon-Lee" <unop...@mail.com> writes
> > I would love some informed advice here.
> > centre of the hole for the cylinder is - wait for it - 45mm from the
> > edge of the door.
>
> Solution #1 -- a kludge!
>
> Plane 2mm from the edge of the door and, using a half-round file,
> increase the size of the hole by 3mm but *only* on the side of the hole
> facing the door edge. The cylinder bezel should cover the increased gap
> but, if not, fit a fancy bezel perhaps in the shape of a lion's head...
>
> Solution #2
>
> For the cost of the postage and packaging, I'll turn you a wooden plug
> as a one-off, but I'll need to know the thickness of the door, the
> diameter of the hole and, of course, your postal address. I've lots of
> off-cuts in my workshop and one is certain to be suitable.
>
> If that sounds better to you, email me with those details.
Thank-you very much for the offer - I'll take a careful look at the
door this weekend and let you know.
On a general note - thanks to all who replied - I am honestly deeply
impressed by the helpfulness and cheery no-nonsense approach that
comes across from the posters to this group.
Regards,
Sid.
S. Endon-Lee
Some tips for anyone else fitting a Yale PBS2
1) Half-round files are great for cleaning up/slightly enlarging an
existing hole. Be careful to not be too enthusiastic - a new file
removes wood at an alarming rate.
2) Check to see if the angles of your door are square. For my door,
whoever had last planed the side of the door that the lock is attached
to had left it such that one angle was less than 90 degrees and one
greater. It wasn't by much, but if the holes being drilled through
the door from each side to meet in the middle are off my a millimeter
or 2, it does show :-). The start point of the holes is measured
from the edge of the door...
3) Following on from (2), if you are drilling holes all the way
through the door by drilling from each side, its a good idea to drill
a small diameter pilot all the way through.
4) Invest in a mini-spirit level that you can attach to your drill.
You may think you can drill horizontal holes by eye, but you can't.
(Q: any idea how to ensure the hole being drilled is perpendicular to
the wall surface? Horizontal is easy with the spirit level, but the
hole can still be going in at a transverse angle to the wall)
5) Use sharp, I mean sharp, wood chisels for chopping out the rebates.
I invested in a good set with a rubber mallet for hitting them with
some time ago. It's worth it. Remember to work slowly and don't try
and take too much off at once - it's easier to deal with having taken
too little off then too much. If the wood chisels are sharp enough,
taking off small amounts just by hand pressure alone works well for
the final, finicky stages.
6) When attaching the door pull, offer the door pull up to the
attachment bolts which you place all the way through the door - its a
huge amount easier than slapping the door pull into the holes and
trying to fiddle the bolts in.
I'm hugely embarrassed by how long it took me, but at least the darn
thing is on, and better placed than the previous lock, which always
stuck against it's strike plate when closing the door. I can close
the door with one hand now!
Regards to all.
Sid
Peter Ashby
unop...@mail.com (S. Endon-Lee) wrote:
> 4) Invest in a mini-spirit level that you can attach to your drill.
> You may think you can drill horizontal holes by eye, but you can't.
>
> (Q: any idea how to ensure the hole being drilled is perpendicular to
> the wall surface? Horizontal is easy with the spirit level, but the
> hole can still be going in at a transverse angle to the wall)
Even better, buy a drill guide. I can drill perpendicular holes wherever
my extension cord will reach (the cordless won't fit the guide). Also
great for vertical holes in long pieces for knockdown fittings.
Peter
--
Peter Ashby
Wellcome Trust Biocentre
University of Dundee, Scotland
Reverse the Spam and remove to email me.
Dave
"Peter Ashby" <p.r....@MAPS.dundee.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:p.r.ashby-49DB2...@dux.dundee.ac.uk...
> In article <34d9e708.02120...@posting.google.com>,
> unop...@mail.com (S. Endon-Lee) wrote:
>
> > 4) Invest in a mini-spirit level that you can attach to your drill.
> > You may think you can drill horizontal holes by eye, but you can't.
> >
> > (Q: any idea how to ensure the hole being drilled is perpendicular to
> > the wall surface? Horizontal is easy with the spirit level, but the
> > hole can still be going in at a transverse angle to the wall)
>
> Even better, buy a drill guide. I can drill perpendicular holes wherever
> my extension cord will reach (the cordless won't fit the guide). Also
> great for vertical holes in long pieces for knockdown fittings.
The only drill guide that I know of, speaking as an engineer, is one that
the drill bit fits.
There are two types, the first being a bush carrier that is clamped to the
flat surface to be drilled and a bush with the right diameter is dropped
into it and then the drill bit is dropped into the bush and the hole
drilled.
The other is a tri-pod affair that is similar to the bush carrier and bush,
but only offers a fixed diameter of bush for the drill to fit corectly. This
can be used on any flat or regularly (ball type shape) curved surface to
drill a hole.
Failing that, get a thick block of wood and drill a hole, at pilot size,
into it that is set at the right angle you want to drill your hole at,
usually best done with a pillar drill. Place block of wood on wall and pilot
drill your hole.
Failing that, start to drill the wall with the drill at hip height, so that
you can look down on the angle being drilled and get some one to tell you if
the drill is being kept level to horizontal by cross referencing to a square
held by the viewer to the drill bit. The square can be used to check your
visual angle as well.
HTH
Dave
Paul C. Dickie
Lee <unop...@mail.com> writes
>4) Invest in a mini-spirit level that you can attach to your drill.
>You may think you can drill horizontal holes by eye, but you can't.
>
>(Q: any idea how to ensure the hole being drilled is perpendicular to
>the wall surface? Horizontal is easy with the spirit level, but the
>hole can still be going in at a transverse angle to the wall)
Axminster H20002 or 963022, on page 5.14 of the 2003 catalogue; the
latter seems to be not unlike the Wolfcraft drill guide.
HTH.
--
< Paul >
jacob
lock-hole is with a brace and bit. You get it perpendiculer by sight -
but a small deviation won't matter anyway.
You really don't need the dozens of gadgets and gizmos that you can
find in tool catalogues - they are only after your money.
Hand tools do a better job and last for life.
cheers
Jacob