Achieving an even finish with Hammerite

[orion....@virgin.net]

Hi all,

I've spent 70 quid on new bits for this oil immersed welder I bought a while ago and it's now back in top condition electro-mechanically speaking. But the outside casing has been badly neglected and most of the original paint is gone.
Anyway, I've splashed out on some Hammerite (hammer finish type) in dark green to maintain the original colour and was wondering the best way to apply it for an even finish. I've no access to sprayguns so I thought about using a small foam roller for the purpose. Would that do the trick or has anyone a better suggestion?

cheers.

[Rob Morley]

Stippling with a brush works quite well as long as you apply the right
amount - don't try to spread it on thin, don't go back over bits you've
done.

[Rick Hughes]

Getting it clean & grease free is key.

get Hammerite well stirred - much more than normal paint .... apply with
a 2-3" brush, and apply thickly, after about 2-3 mins you can go over
lightly with brush to smooth out ... then don't be tempted to do that
again later as it will drag.

Wr4ap brush in cling film to stop it going off.

Once touch dry, put on second coat ... if you leave it longer you have
to wait a couple of weeks before putting on 2nd coat.
Throw brush away.

[orion....@virgin.net]

Thanks, guys.
I've got some Gunk for degreasing purposes. Will that be sufficient by itself or do I need to go over it again afterwards with meths or something?

[Dave Liquorice]

On Mon, 05 Aug 2013 09:08:40 +0100, Rick Hughes wrote:

> get Hammerite well stirred - much more than normal paint .... apply with
> a 2-3" brush, and apply thickly, after about 2-3 mins you can go over
> lightly with brush to smooth out ... then don't be tempted to do that
> again later as it will drag.
>
> Wr4ap brush in cling film to stop it going off.
>
> Once touch dry, put on second coat ... if you leave it longer you have
> to wait a couple of weeks before putting on 2nd coat.

Those are "old" instructions. Just used some "new" hammerite, albeit
smooth not hammered, and the instructions on the tin said minimal
stiring, recoat in four hours (touch was about an hour maybe less)
and nothing about having to wait weeks if you miss the recoat timing.

It's certainly bung a good amount on, brush out and leave. If you go
back and "fiddle" it will drag. It's a bit like the "one coat" gloss
paints, a balance between enough to self level but not so uch it
runs.

> Throw brush away.

Cling film while still required then chuck is still correct. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.

[Dave Liquorice]

On Mon, 5 Aug 2013 03:31:16 -0700 (PDT), orion....@virgin.net
wrote:

> I've got some Gunk for degreasing purposes. Will that be sufficient by
> itself or do I need to go over it again afterwards with meths or
> something?

See previous post, Hammerite has changed. Read the instructions on
the tin. Wire brush and remove dust with damp cloth is what I
remember for my hinges but they didn't have any oil/grease on them so
there maybe a degrease requirement that I didn't pay any attention
to.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[orion....@virgin.net]

On Monday, 5 August 2013 20:37:03 UTC+2, Huge wrote:

> Throw the Hammerite away and use POR15.
>

Wot?

[rbel]

On Mon, 5 Aug 2013 14:36:39 -0700 (PDT), orion....@virgin.net
wrote:

>>
>> Throw the Hammerite away and use POR15.
>>
>
> Wot?

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproductsByBrand.asp?brand=POR-15&brandCode=Z7&pageno=1
--
rbel